Hi guys anyone sa mazda club na nagpa pomponazzi gt glass coating? Mukhang mas ok kasi yun kesa sa optiguard ni bigberts? I want a paint protection to my car lagi kasi may bird poop and sinasampahan ng pusa
Damn amoy basahan yun fan blower ng aircon ko😔 😂 Turning on the AC masks it a bit though haha
I rarely get to use the car now so malamang may molds and bacteria nag form sa aircon system.
I asked two dealers how much cabin filter, a whopping 2800+ and 3400+ from two different dealers, kanya kanyang pricing pala sa parts, di uniform ang srp and mas mahal pa sa bmw 😳 👎🏽
Baka may alam kayong oem parts supplier?
Sir Balong, need ba ibalik din yung kotse for maintenance kapag napagnano ceramic paint protection? May kamahalan ang ceramic pro unlike BB. Ang worry ko since I have a white car baka konti lang ang difference in terms of shine at since baguhan pa lang ako sa pagdridrive, for sure I will get may car some battle scars (Thank God wala pa naman). I just don't want my car to turn yellow. Yung iba kasing nakikita kong white Mazda (prev gen) nagiging yellow![]()
Gasgas at bangga...exactly my concerns ahahhaa. When I ask them on Fb, ito ang sabi nila...
Here are our packages (all include full clay, car wash, degriming, exterior detailing 3 step paint correction, basic engine cleaning, full exterior coating with glass, plastic, metal trims.
1. Single layer ceramic pro light®. This product has no hardness but is strong enough to serve as protection for 2 years if properly cared for. This will enhance gloss, maintain gloss, and serve as a hydrophobic layer to repel bird drops, surface contaminants, etc.
2. Three layer package consisting of 2 layers of hardcoat 9H® plus 1 layer cp light®. 9H® will be a permanent bond to your clear coat and only way to remove this is by machine buffing. This has a 3 year warranty.
3. Six layer package consists of 5 layer 9h® and 1 layer light®. Just like the 3 layer but this will be much stronger since the first few layers of 9h® usually is absorbed by the clear coat especially on soft paints/coats. This will be a better guarantee against bird droppings etc., since there are more layers. 5 year warranty. Includes full interior special coating with leather/plastic ceramic pro® products.
4. Ten layers. 9 layers 9H®, 1 layer light®, same as 6 layers but of course the more layers, the higher level of protection. 7 yrs warranty includes full interior coating as well.
Package 1: 19,000
Package 2: 42,000
Package 3: 60,000
Package 4: 90,000
Jusmiyo...kung mayaman lang sana ako. Ahahaha
I don't know, if my car was a Ferrari, then maybe kagatin ko (but then again, if I could afford a Ferrari then I could afford another hehe). I mean you can get a paint washover for P15-20k and a strip to metal paintjob for P30-40k. I doubt naman na kukupas agad yung pintura mo in 5 years.
On colors, I know white is probably the most popular, but here are the 2 main reasons why I'd never go back after owning 1 way back:
1.White is the least rewarding to work on as it offers no visual depth or reflectivity. It is difficult to any reflection even when the finish is brand new and in a highly polished condition. Conversely, dark colors like black paint, if properly polished, reflect images like a mirror....(but black is also hard to keep clean & swirls will be more visible...).
You can work all day on white finish, throw every kind of cleaner, polish and wax you have at it, but the end results will be only slightly better than what you can achieve from a one-step cleaner/wax. For a DIYer who enjoys the process as much as the results, it's just the least rewarding.
2. Generally speaking, single-stage white paint is the hardest paint detailers will ever work on. Titanium Dioxide is used as pigment.
Fredrick Mohs created a scale from 1 to 10, for measuring and determining hardness. Hardness refers to the measure of resistance a surfaces has to abrasion. Talc is rated at 1 while a diamond is rated at 10.
Titanium dioxide, the substance used as pigmentation in white paint, is rated at 7 on the Mohs scale. As far as pigments go, titanium dioxide is very hard. By contrast, black paints, (single-stage), are soft. The pigment used to make paint black is Carbon black, which has a Mohs hardness rating of 2.
Why is this more a problem than advantage? Sub-surface defect removal in single-stage white paint is two-fold: It is hard and automotive paints tend to be very thin.
White paints are so hard that when you try removing a scratch, you often end up putting in more, smaller scratches surrounding the scratch while potentially only marginally removing the original scratch itself. Kinda self-defeating and in some cases, risky as you might cut into the primer.
My detailing buddies use rotary buffers. With good polishes and the right buffing pad, the rotary buffer makes paint defect removal easy, except on white paint. The reason is that rotary buffers create heat between the pad and the paint surface. If heat build-up becomes excessive, you can burn the paint. The paint hardness requires more pad pressure, which creates more heat and increases the chances of burning the paint.
That said, & after owning white & black cars, I'm now staying loyal to middle boring ground....Silver. Reflects heat, camouflages dirt, doesn't yellow, stays new longer, ages well.....but yes, boring....that's me. Haha.![]()
Very true, though problem with repaint, i've done multiple already in my other cars, especially strip to metal (thanks to honda ph's paint and sealant choice, na no choice ako strip to metal) in 2 years the defects will show. The saying iba yun factory made vs repaired/repainted in my case is so very true except for my honda ph car [emoji17] my japan made toyota 15 years running still has no fade whatsoever, but its rear which as bumped by a bus was repainted, and like my honda, defects showed and is not just the same.
These are from "known" repainters already, and charged way more than what you estimated. A third painter i'm talking to right now doesn't even want to strip to metal when not needed, especially factory primers, iba daw talaga factory primed.
This is what i don't want to happen in my car which is an often occurrence from my other cars, [emoji17] white paint baked in with tree sap, which ceramic pro should protect from.
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Yes it can actually cost more, the figures I quoted are just to compare with what the paint protection scheme is supposed to protect. And also yes strip to metal is a last resort kumbaga, but some people insist on it to make the paint shading even and its the only way if you want a change in color.
I think kaya pa yan tanggalin using claybars or a good detailer. My officemate has a white Ford Lynx that has turned a bit yellow in some parts, especially the lower half of the doors. But after a visit to a detailers, pumuti ulit.