2011 KIA Sportage (GEN 3)

[lastpogi]

Meron bang 7 seater 4x2 Diesel Variant ang Sportage? kung wala, how much po ba yong 4x2 Diesel na 5 seater sportage? Thanks

[ratchet23]

Meron bang 7 seater 4x2 Diesel Variant ang Sportage? kung wala, how much po ba yong 4x2 Diesel na 5 seater sportage? Thanks

no 7-seaters for the sportage. 1.290m yun diesel 4x2 EX variant.

[renzo_d10]

Meron bang 7 seater 4x2 Diesel Variant ang Sportage? kung wala, how much po ba yong 4x2 Diesel na 5 seater sportage? Thanks

Wala po. Kung gusto mo ng 7-seater 4x2 na diesel, sir, might as well get a Sorento or the outgoing Santa Fe -- which I'm sure meron huge discounts to make way for the new one.

[jut703]

Super sikip ng Sportage, it's just not possible to make it into a 7-seater

[Starex_Gold]

Super sikip ng Sportage, it's just not possible to make it into a 7-seater

Bakit daw sa Captiva kinaya

[peejabi]

Meron ako supplier ng Motul CRDi Specific. Mura lang compared sa mga casa at sa sulit. Kaya kahit every 5000km ako magpalit ng FS oil maligaya parin ako

Ang Motul CRDi Specific maganda talaga. NighthawkGT tried his Motul until 10000km. Syempre top-up lang dun sa 5000km. Maganda parin daw yung quality ng oil. Pwede pa daw i-extend pero syempre palitan na talaga dapat.

Suggestion ko dito, try mo kausapin ng maayos yung casa kung papayagan ka magdala ng sarili mong oil. Alam naman siguro nilang okay ang Motul diba.

Kasi walang tatalo sa CRDi pag pinahataw mo. Hindi mo na papansinin na masakit ang maintenance. Haha! Bonus na rin diyan yung matipid sa crudo at mas mura ang crudo kesa gas.

Mukhang diesel variant na kukunin namin hehe. Since mataas sigurado magiging annual mileage, masusulit yung CRDi. Hehe. Sir, baka pwede naman pa-share ng kinukuhaan mo ng Motul.

[wahzai_swy]

Meron ako supplier ng Motul CRDi Specific. Mura lang compared sa mga casa at sa sulit. Kaya kahit every 5000km ako magpalit ng FS oil maligaya parin ako

Ang Motul CRDi Specific maganda talaga. NighthawkGT tried his Motul until 10000km. Syempre top-up lang dun sa 5000km. Maganda parin daw yung quality ng oil. Pwede pa daw i-extend pero syempre palitan na talaga dapat.

Suggestion ko dito, try mo kausapin ng maayos yung casa kung papayagan ka magdala ng sarili mong oil. Alam naman siguro nilang okay ang Motul diba.

Kasi walang tatalo sa CRDi pag pinahataw mo. Hindi mo na papansinin na masakit ang maintenance. Haha! Bonus na rin diyan yung matipid sa crudo at mas mura ang crudo kesa gas.

Any oil expert here can verify this? just come across this post in Tdiclub post by Drivbiwire. His article makes sense, and if the findings are laboratory proven, then the 5000Km change oil with FS oil is wasting your money, time and even makes more damages to your engine.

STOP STOP STOP!

The ORIGINAL factory APPROVED oil change interval is 30,000 miles! YES 30,000 MILES!!

Did you comprehend that?

THE ORGINAL OIL CHANGE INTERVAL APPROVAL IS 30,000 MILES!!!

Now that I have that off my chest,

VW reduced the interval from 30,000 miles to 10,000 miles in the US market...any guesses why?

Because people like you either:
1) Can't read the owners manual
2) Don't trust the car makers
3) Can't follow directions
4) Fail to adhere to the service indicator in the car

VW does NOT want oil change intervals of less than 10,000 miles due to how the oils function in the engine, shorter intervals INCREASE WEAR, Don't argue with me about it, if you take the time to track wear rates during an oil change at 250 mile intervals you can plot the reduction and stabilization of the wear rates out beyond 25,000 miles!

Think of oil as having 2 types of wear reducing additives, the first provides protection by/thru detergancy (cleansing of internal surfaces), dispersing soot, neutralizing acids (not an issue now with ULSD), and several other types as well. These additives are generally very specific to diesel engines and must pass specific tests in VW Diesel engines.

The next type of additive is a wear additive. These protect the engine where the thickness of oil may be too thin to prevent metal to metal contact. Other additves in this type range also provide protection to the cam and lifters, engine bearings, piston wrist pins etc.

Now pay attention, the 2nd group of additives account for less than 3% of the total volume of the oil. These additives also account for 90% of the engines oil protection! These additives require heat and pressure to bond with the critical wear surfaces, but due to the low percentage of additive in the oil they require time to fully place on those surfaces by the pressures of the component they are protecting. Example, an engine at operating temperature at the point where the cam presses on the lifter generates in excess of 90,000 psi, that pressure and the heat of the engine causes the 3% portion of the 1 micron thick oil film to form a crust or sacrifical layer at the point of contact. Since only 3% of the oil contains the wear additives, it requires hundreds of thousands of passes to generate a sufficient film to stop the wear at this specific point in the engine.

Everybody is quick to make the arguement that the old oil had these additives so they are already in place, right? not quite!

Remember the first type of additive? In that 1st group you had "detergents" that cleanse the inside of the motor. These cleansers are used up very rapidly after an oil change since they attack the remaining oil that was left after the oil change. These cleansers if you will also reduce the effectiveness of the high pressure wear additives...See where this is going?

Before explaining further, after that initial period the dispersants in the oil work to prevent the adhering of the particles in the oil to any of the internal surfaces. These additives are often unique to diesel engines are also the reason why the oil looks so black so quickly, they are doing their job by preventing the soot from building up in any one place instead they are dispersed in the oil evenly throughout the oil sump which prevents sludging and other contamination related issues.

Back to the detergents and the high pressure additives, the layers of high pressure additives leftover are not being replenished after the oil change due to the cleaning process that is going on with the new oil to neutralize the remaining acids, and other contaminants in the engine. As the cleaners in the oil are used up in the first 500-1000 miles, the wear additives are able to re-generate a protective layer in the engine that stops the wear at that location.

You break down the oils life cycle like this:

Phase 1: Detergants attack the internals removing accumlated contaminants, neutralize acids and force those into suspenstion in the oil. This period of time lasts between 500-1000 miles

Phase 2: During the first 1000 miles the oils viscosity provides the majority of the wear protection by virtue of the film it creates on the surfaces. This phase generates relatively high wear rates but due to the short duration this is accepted due to the removal of contaminants that could result in long term damage to the motor. Wear rates in the period of time are generally speaking 5-10ppm per 1000 miles.

Phase 3: Detergents are now used up and the oil additives are forming their protective layers in the "extreme pressure" regions of the motor. Now the oil additives are working in conjunction with the oil film and the wear rates drop from 10ppm per 1000 miles to around 1-2ppm per 1000 miles.

Phase 4: Longterm peace! The oil is operating in a period of equilibrium, the wear additives are placed, Oil viscosity is in perfect range for the engine, Dispersants are continually working to prevent soot and other contaminants from accumulating on the surfaces and wear rates remain between 1-3ppm per 1000 miles.

Phase 5: Oil run out, the oil during this phase begins to increase in viscosity (or thin in some cases), Extreme pressure additives begin to lose effectiveness due to increased concentrations of wear particles (VW tests out to 8%, most oil changes never see in excess of 2% after 30,000 miles). This is when you begin to see a rise in the wear metal formation in the engine. Often wear metals during this phase rise to the 3-8ppm per 1000 mile range. Notice that the wear metals being generated are still LOWER than they were in the first 1000 miles?

--------------------------------------------------------------

When somebody says they are going to change the oil every 5000 miles or twice as often they are DOUBLING the number of detergent cycles and DOUBLING the number of cycles where the engine is running at it's highest wear rates!

PPM/Fe (generation of Fe in 1000 mile increments)
Short drain intervals
1K oil change
10ppm = 10ppm in 1000 miles = 10ppm/1000 miles

3K oil change
10+2+2 = 14ppm in 3000 miles = 4.6ppm/1000 miles

5K oil change
10+2+2+2+2: Change oil = 18ppm in 5000 miles = 3.6ppm/1000 miles

Long drain intervals
10K oil change
10+2+2+2+2+2+2+2+2+3 = 29 ppm in 10,000 miles = 2.9ppm/1000 miles

15K oil change
10+2+2+2+2+2+2+2+2+3+3+3+3+3+3 = 44ppm in 15,000 miles = 2.9 ppm/1000 miles

20K oil change
10+2+2+2+2+2+2+2+2+3+3+3+3+3+3+3+3+3+4+4 = 61ppm in 20,000 miles = 3.3ppm/1000 miles

When ppm of Fe per 1000 miles reaches 5-7ppm per 1000 miles you can consider the oil ready for a change...

The above is based on real world TDI oil samples.

I have personally used up to 25,000 mile oil drain intervals on my TDI and still never reached the 5-7ppm range! I changed it at that time due to soot and TBN depletion (high sulfur fuel at the time).

Anybody that tells you that short oil drain intervals are good for your motor don't know what they are talking about!

DB

[Ry_Tower]

Any oil expert here can verify this? just come across this post in Tdiclub post by Drivbiwire. His article makes sense, and if the findings are laboratory proven, then the 5000Km change oil with FS oil is wasting your money, time and even makes more damages to your engine.

A proper used oil analysis could do this. But with a remote bypass filtration or a heavy-duty dual-flow filter like fleetguard or baldwin, some diesel owners in BITOG posted ability to do the 15K-20K miles COI with just a very good replacement filter. Bypass can extend to 30-40K indeed.

[O!lman]

My FC during my Alaminos, Pangasinan trip.

Sorry for the confusion, KDM crdi unit po yung sporty ko.

Just had my PMS sa Hyundai Las Pinas... 9 Liters of Semi-Synthetic Motor oil yung na-consume ng Sporty ko. 8 liters lang dinala ko, mabuti na lang malapit lang ang ACE Hardware dyan sa SM Southmall. Oil filter is only Php375 sa Goodgear. Labor cost is only P1,200+ including consumables and free carwash.

[Starex_Gold]

then the 5000Km change oil with FS oil is wasting your money, time and even makes more damages to your engine.

Wasting money, it's fine. Wasting time, it's fine.

Pero damages to the engine, that should be proven.

Tsaka from time to time pinapaabot ko sa red line para batak yung makina. Kinabahan ako noon nung naka semi synthetic pa ako. Baka lalo malintikan yung makina that's why I switched to FS. Tumipid na rin sa crudo.

Yung friend ko kasi every since every 5000km siya nagpapalit kahit FS oil pa. Shell gamit niya dati, ngayon pareho na kaming naka Motul.

[O!lman]

Wala po. Kung gusto mo ng 7-seater 4x2 na diesel, sir, might as well get a Sorento or the outgoing Santa Fe -- which I'm sure meron huge discounts to make way for the new one.

Wala na raw pong unit ang outgoing Santa Fe according to a friend in Hyundai Alabang.

[av8or5]

Napansin ko mahilig sa black mags ang Sportage Owners.. 10 month old na yata Sportage ko.. less than 6K KM, still loving it. No problem so far....working perfect.

shre lng po...

Hi guys i got my Sportage on my birthday Best car!!!
[IMG][/IMG]

[Starex_Gold]

Malakas ang loob!

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2BpKJu8Pcss&feature=related]Kia Sportage 200 km/h - YouTube[/ame]

[~JasoN~]

guys, anong fuel gamit niyo? sobrang lakas sa gas sportage ko. 18.5L/100km. shell unleaded gamit ko.. 150+kms pa takbo ng unit ko. napansin nyo ba na mabagal bumaba ang rpm? pag release ng gas pedal di kaagad bumababa? thanks

[Starex_Gold]

guys, anong fuel gamit niyo? sobrang lakas sa gas sportage ko. 18.5L/100km. shell unleaded gamit ko.. 150+kms pa takbo ng unit ko. napansin nyo ba na mabagal bumaba ang rpm? pag release ng gas pedal di kaagad bumababa? thanks

Yan ang advantage ng Honda.

Sa CR-V 2.4 ko, pag bumitaw ako sa accelerator pedal, lilipat siya sa next higher gear para idle lang ang RPM. Parang naka neutral lang.

[jut703]

Iba iba yung trigger point ng DFCO per car eh. Some activate over a wide range of speeds, others don't. Some activate right away as soon as you step off the pedal, some take a second's worth of delay.

[blooperoo]

O order sana ako ng head unit installation kit. Medyo confused ako sa kulay. Charcoal ba yung dash ng local units or grey? Thanks.

[~JasoN~]

yun din napansin ko. sa crv ko dati at sa civic, pareha lang behavior ng rpm. sa montero pag release din ng gas pedal bagsak din naman diretso rpm. di pa ako nasasanay dito sa sasakyan na to. sa honda sanay na ako. ano ba dapat behavior ng foot sa gas pedal? haha

[renzo_d10]

Yan ang advantage ng Honda.

Sa CR-V 2.4 ko, pag bumitaw ako sa accelerator pedal, lilipat siya sa next higher gear para idle lang ang RPM. Parang naka neutral lang.

Kaso problema sa AT ng Honda, ang kulit ng transmission... konting tapak naman, downshift agad.

[jut703]

Kaso problema sa AT ng Honda, ang kulit ng transmission... konting tapak naman, downshift agad.

Mas gusto ko yun di hamak kaysa sa AT ng Toyota na parang nagkakape muna bago magdownshift. Kailangan mag-spam ng paddle shifters eh.