To all 3.0-litre DMax owners: Which diesel EFi-tuning chip is better?

**hinDMaxsiado** · October 20th, 2011 04:02 PM

Originally Posted by jonMk2

one slight problem sir, i forgot to say i am in cebu =(

Wa'y problema bay, makasulti man ko og Cebuano bisan di ko Bisaya. Sensiya na bay ah kay murag kinalwete man Cebuano nako ahihi

(4 ka tuig ko sa Mindanao nanrabaho)

You may check sir at this website: Customer Cars – DTS Philippines

They cater for customers from north and south. Better inquire about the adaptability of the DTS chip for the DMax 3.0 TD Intercooler to Mr. Al Tecson in one of his Metro Manila numbers 02 9854585 or 0920 5642327 or 0915 5396154 or 0947 5330873 or 0915 5396154 or 0947 5330873 or 02 5146544. Inform him that yours is the non-CRDi 4JH1-TC series.

You may also ask Berrima Diesel at phone no. 02 5331415 about the DPChip if it's applicable for the DMax 4JH1-TC.

Goodluck.... Ayo-ayo bay!

**spotdog11** · October 24th, 2011 05:08 PM

Sir, I hope this is not too off topic. When a car is tested on a dyno, is it tested while in 1st gear only to get its maximum wheel horsepower and torque? Also, what would happen if two different cars sharing the same engine just like a dmax and an alterra is tested. Wouldn't that have different results since wheel size and probably gearing is not the same on the two cars?

**hinDMaxsiado** · October 24th, 2011 11:57 PM

Originally Posted by spotdog11

Sir, I hope this is not too off topic. When a car is tested on a dyno, is it tested while in 1st gear only to get its maximum wheel horsepower and torque? Also, what would happen if two different cars sharing the same engine just like a dmax and an alterra is tested. Wouldn't that have different results since wheel size and probably gearing is not the same on the two cars?

Sir, the best persons to ask about chassis-dyno runs, where values are reckoned as wheel-hp (bhp) are Niky, one of the most technically-capable and influential forumers here at tsikot, and Arsen, who's actually working for an engine design and assembly plant in Japan.

Niky, in particular, has had lots of actual chassis-dyno experience. He also explained about why companies are not getting a wheel-hp reading based on 1st-gear for such estimation purposes (which are actually just an indicative of how the engine translates power onto the wheels). A 1st-gear based chassis-dyno run gives you a very peaky hp and torque curve along the rpm-range which you understand why ---- It demonstrates the most powerful characteristic of the engine's pull through the wheels where you'd see a very peaky and yet a very narrow powerband at the same time.... According to Niky, it's not the best way to describe your car's power output....

Observe that when you engage the 1st-gear in say a manual-transmission, it takes a considerable lesser time for the engine to go through its rev-range (powerband) than when you're doing the dyno say at 2nd-gear or 3rd-gear and so-on.

For the DMax 3.0 Ddi-iTEQ i observed (although i don't really fully understand the reason behind), in a manual-tranny, the wheel-hp readings are taken at the 4th-gear, which if you look at it, has has the same resulting product when you combine the final-gearing and 3rd-gear ratio from the auto-tranny. Meaning, say 4.3 final-gear and 1.0 4th-gear ratio of the manual-tranny DMax is similar to the 4.3 final-gear and 1.0 3rd-gear ratio of the auto-tranny DMax.

Arsen, on the other hand, expounded that when getting the reading from the auto-tranny car via the chassis-dyno (which may show lesser wheel-hp value than the manual-tranny), it's the characteristic of the torque converter that is read instead of the typical direct-connection that you would get from a manual transmission a.k.a. cock-bolt-lock direct connection of the engine-to the-transmission-to-the-wheels. The torque converter in an auto-tranny may act as a regulating/buffering medium that transfer power originating from the engine down onto the wheels.... Nonetheless, even with a manual-transmission, you can also expect parasitic losses (friction losses) running from the engine-to the-transmission-to the wheels. An accurate power rating is through an engine-mounted dynamometer, as further explained by Arsen, and at different throttle-ranges.

Chassis-dyno runs, however, are useful in verifying whether the modifications you just did to your car gain anything from your stock wheel-hp values, and in quantifying how much you gained from the wheel....

Better PM the two (Niky and/or Arsen) for a thorough explanation sir....

**spotdog11** · October 25th, 2011 02:47 PM

I understand sir. Its a bit complicated pala, better leave it to the experts, hehehe. For me, your explanation is very much sufficient already. Thank you very much.

**2tski3** · February 15th, 2012 10:57 AM

mga boss, update ko lang konti etong thread. wonder if you heard about the MonsterV2 (5-1 piggyback). for more info, you can visit:

Monster Performance Industries

meron bang nakagamit neto d2 saten sa pinas?

**attaneil** · October 18th, 2012 04:52 PM

Sir, my nag bago ba sa liksi ng takbo nya? ung parang kunting apak mo pa lang sa gas pedal sumisibat na..? sa turque at power sir ano comment po after installation?

**d_mac** · October 19th, 2012 03:20 PM

Originally Posted by 2tski3

mga boss, update ko lang konti etong thread. wonder if you heard about the MonsterV2 (5-1 piggyback). for more info, you can visit:

Monster Performance Industries

meron bang nakagamit neto d2 saten sa pinas?

Merong mga suppliers diyan ng Monster V2 sir sa Pinas, as far as i know. One of them is also a RaceChip Pro dealer by the name of Mr. Kenneth Uy Jao (see the RaceChip Pro Facebook site and look for Mr. Kenneth Jao, if interested).

Para sa mga hardcore yang chip na iyan, super lupit ng mga yan sir hehe

....Madami gumagamit niyan sa Thailand sa mga drag-racers nila ng mga pickups doon....

Installation though is not as quick, simple and easy like the RaceChip Pro. It involves wire-splicing. Though not quite sure on this, you may have to de-restrict your stock exhaust as well ---- adapt an aftermarket pipe, remove the EGR perhaps etc.... You might even be forced to modify your transmission set-up depending on how high the tuned power is. It also cost more than the RaceChip Pro and it's equipped with a piggyback ECU.

It has to be installed and tuned by someone who really knows his stuff about the Monster V2 and what level he has to tune your ride that is appropriate for your usage. A Monster V2-modded diesel pickup is no joke, not for the faint-hearted i suppose hehe

....Your power and torque gain is way higher compared to just the 1st-stage intake kit like the RaceChip Pro.

As a hindsight, don't know if Bruce Garland and Harry Suzuki who placed 1st amongst all diesel utility pickups (11th overall) during the 2009 Paris-Dakar Rally were using this into their Dmax 4JJ1-TCX VGS pickup. But they are believed to be using it so, moreso even lately like last 2011 when their 3.0-litre 4-inline diesel Dmax gained 650 Nm torque at the wheel.

Your rail pressure may even shoot up to around 32,000 psi. Better ask Kenneth Jao about the Monster V2. He can help you throughout on the tuning, which is appropriate for what you intend to do, and set it up for you.

Cheers!

**PATSYS** · November 4th, 2012 07:51 AM

Hi guys,

For those who know about Racechip pro...

I installed it in my 2010 Alterra and indeed felt power increase.

Right now my settings is 4 - B. It started as B - B.

I have been gradually adjusting the left dial up but I have not moved the right one because I was told by the guy who installed that it should be fixed to B - or at least this is my recollection.

Unfortunately I lost his contact number.

So I would like to hear from those who have used it - is the right dial not supposed to be changed from the B setting?

Also has anyone tried throttle controller? Any feedback on this?

Thanks

**d_mac** · November 4th, 2012 05:03 PM

Originally Posted by PATSYS

Hi guys,

For those who know about Racechip pro...

I installed it in my 2010 Alterra and indeed felt power increase.

Right now my settings is 4 - B. It started as B - B.

I have been gradually adjusting the left dial up but I have not moved the right one because I was told by the guy who installed that it should be fixed to B - or at least this is my recollection.

Unfortunately I lost his contact number.

So I would like to hear from those who have used it - is the right dial not supposed to be changed from the B setting?

Also has anyone tried throttle controller? Any feedback on this?

Thanks

Sir, kindly read through pp. 2 and 3 of this thread, you'll read through there the settings on the RaceChip Pro. i have one for my D-max, bought in September 2011 ---- By the way sir, i used to be the excommunicated hinDMaxsiado

The dial next to the screw slot is the power-increment dial (i see that you are at high setting "4"), and the dial next to at the API interface slot is dial responsible for the distribution or duration of the power along the rev-range. And i see that you are the low "B" setting. Be aware of limp mode, or check engine light indication as you raise further your power settings as your exhaust gas temperature might already be too much for the engine to handle.

I am currently at 0 (zero) - C combination setting sir.

You may reach the Racechip Philippines guys through one of the forumers here by the name of Jedi, try this number - 0905 333-8777.... or you may communicate directly with Messrs. Mike Blum or Jao Hidalgo at the Facebook page of Race Chip Philippines. There is also a Facebook group page for Racechip Pro Users Philippines ---- Just join in there sir! there's wealth of info waiting for you thereat.

Cheers!

**PATSYS** · November 4th, 2012 11:44 PM

Originally Posted by d_mac

Sir, kindly read through pp. 2 and 3 of this thread, you'll read through there the settings on the RaceChip Pro. i have one for my D-max, bought in September 2011 ---- By the way sir, i used to be the excommunicated hinDMaxsiado

The dial next to the screw slot is the power-increment dial (i see that you are at high setting "4"), and the dial next to at the API interface slot is dial responsible for the distribution or duration of the power along the rev-range. And i see that you are the low "B" setting. Be aware of limp mode, or check engine light indication as you raise further your power settings as your exhaust gas temperature might already be too much for the engine to handle.

I am currently at 0 (zero) - C combination setting sir.

You may reach the Racechip Philippines guys through one of the forumers here by the name of Jedi, try this number - 0905 333-8777.... or you may communicate directly with Messrs. Mike Blum or Jao Hidalgo at the Facebook page of Race Chip Philippines. There is also a Facebook group page for Racechip Pro Users Philippines ---- Just join in there sir! there's wealth of info waiting for you thereat.

Cheers!

Thanks d_mac.

I remember this guy Jao was the guy who sold the racechip to me. Will review the posts here and if more info needed, will contact him.

Cheers!