2008 Hyundai Starex (Gen. 4)

[star78]

Do some owners install third party alarm? What brand you recommend?

[bryan lim]

Good day mga bro, just got my 2nd hand unit grand starex, just wondering , havong a fuel consumption of 5.5 kilometer per liter, is this normal? Crdi vgt 2010, a/t . . . .any commenta po? Ilan kilometer po sa inyo? Thnaks in advance

[spat]

Yung amin wala naman problema, sa Pasig namin pinarerenew

Thank you boss

[star78]

Do you install third party alarm? What brand you recommend?

[Wh1stl3r]

Hehehe! No problem. Pero di ko na matandaan, anong pinalit mong shocks?

Wala pa sir, still looking for an aftermarket option, yung OEM kasi sandali lang sira na. Sana meron ang Koni. Will email them today. Sana sumagot.

Yung akin one time nagka moist ang camera, sabi 1 year lang daw warranty sa electrical, which is nowhere to be found sa warrant booklet nila. Dun ako nabadtrip kakapa service ko pa lang sa Q. Ave after a week tumawag na sa kanila na lang daw pwede magpa PMS. Anyways, kung i void nila warranty let it be. Minsan over exxagerated ang pagppuri nila sa GS units nila. It's the same as any modern cars today may mga part lang na mas advance ang KDM kesa sa HARI unit. At kkaiba nga kada PMS palit ng air filter samaantalang sa Q.Ave sabi kada 10k lang daw palit nun. Yung HUD ko medyo nagloloko na rin, anyway let it be hanggang masira, di na ako aasa ng claim dun.

Sa akin sir may mga reklamo ako pero di na ko umaasang ma entertain pa nila. May rust stains yung tailgate drain when we got the unit. Gusto ko sana ipa rust proof bago ilabas pero inayawan nila, cause daw kasi ng noise yun. Also they put in their fugly sticker in between the rear windshield and the tint without asking. The HU buttons are painted lang pala, they're now flaking off. Also, a lot of noise coming from the sliding door. There was also leaking from the rear window when it rained. Ewan ko kung naayos na din nila. Pero ang nakakadisappoint sa lahat yung attitude nila towards complaints, parang ang flowchart nila deny first and then consider honoring warranty if customer is persistent. By that time inis ka na.

And I find the PMS schedule of Hancars very ridiculous. Bakit ka magpapalit ng fully synthetic oil every 5,000 kms eh di ba nga they were formulated to last longer than mineral oil?

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk

I'm guessing they're trying to maximize earnings from service. Baka binabawi yung cost ng bagong building.

[CVT]

Good day mga bro, just got my 2nd hand unit grand starex, just wondering , havong a fuel consumption of 5.5 kilometer per liter, is this normal? Crdi vgt 2010, a/t . . . .any commenta po? Ilan kilometer po sa inyo? Thnaks in advance

Medyo mababa iyan for a VGT unit bro.... Sa akin 2010 TCi AT, 6.5Km/L,- mixed city/highway driving.... Unioil EuroIV diesel and heavy foot on the pedal....



22.7K:boat:

[Wh1stl3r]

And also they really like using Castrol 10w40 which is not a recommended viscosity based on the manual.
5w30, 10w30 and 15w40 oils are those written in the manual. Ewan ko lang ngayon kung iba na rin, pero CF-4 pa dati ung ginagamit na Castrol nila.

Well, of course. We wouldn't have it any other way here.

Oil selection is a problem for both HARI and gray market dealers. Open the manual and it will say the minimum oil requirement. It's CI-4 for the CRDi if I'm not mistaken. Not sure about the TCi. IMO the viscosity will come next. Fully synthetic or Mineral is next, again IMO, denotes longevity of the quality of the product.

The problem with them is that they're pushing their so called HGMO that's CF rated. Fully Synthetic, yes, but CF rated oil. I is far from F in the English alphabet. I don't know what alphabet they use. If I understand it right, the engine requires CI-4 level oil, whether FS or mineral. They're feeding it lower level CF oil. By making it FS, they're feeding it something that's not up to its requirements, but will last up to 10,000 kms at that level. Is this sabotage so it breaks down quicker and they get service revenue?!

This seems to support the idea that they are only concerned about one thing and that is revenue. One thing I know about HGMO is the engine sounds like sh*t specially when during cold starts. We should be using CI-4, since that is the current recommended rating for low sulfur diesel. Problem is, most synthetics nowadays are CJ-4, designed for 15ppm (Euro 5 ULSD) fuel if you're going to run it for an extended oil drain interval. Not sure if it will run for 10Tkms on Euro 2 fuel. I'd do regular oil testing but for 1k+ a pop, it's a bit much added cost of maintenance.

[bryan lim]

Medyo mababa iyan for a VGT unit bro.... Sa akin 2010 TCi AT, 6.5Km/L,- mixed city/highway driving.... Unioil EuroIV diesel and heavy foot on the pedal....



22.7K:boat:

thank you sir . . . just have this newly changed oil, change transmision fluid, change ari filter, fuel filter . . . . well, baka sobrang slow moving lng ako (minsan lng mag 50kph) . .usaually below 40kph . . . . kaya siguro hinde ganun ka ok ang fuel consumption . . . .

[IMm29]

That 5.5 km/L is not too far off for city drives and bumper to bumper traffic. The CRDi engine is not a frugal one in that scenario to say the least. Take it out of town and you'll be a happy camper.

What oil did you put in though?

[IMm29]

This seems to support the idea that they are only concerned about one thing and that is revenue. One thing I know about HGMO is the engine sounds like sh*t specially when during cold starts. We should be using CI-4, since that is the current recommended rating for low sulfur diesel. Problem is, most synthetics nowadays are CJ-4, designed for 15ppm (Euro 5 ULSD) fuel if you're going to run it for an extended oil drain interval. Not sure if it will run for 10Tkms on Euro 2 fuel. I'd do regular oil testing but for 1k+ a pop, it's a bit much added cost of maintenance.

I'd think CJ-4 is better than CF though. If the extended drain interval is the worry with CJ-4, then perhaps it would be better to stick with the 5,000 km drain interval and stay with CI-4 diesel mineral oil (Delo 400, Rimula R4X, etc.)

[numbah5]

This seems to support the idea that they are only concerned about one thing and that is revenue. One thing I know about HGMO is the engine sounds like sh*t specially when during cold starts. We should be using CI-4, since that is the current recommended rating for low sulfur diesel. Problem is, most synthetics nowadays are CJ-4, designed for 15ppm (Euro 5 ULSD) fuel if you're going to run it for an extended oil drain interval. Not sure if it will run for 10Tkms on Euro 2 fuel. I'd do regular oil testing but for 1k+ a pop, it's a bit much added cost of maintenance.

Most synthetics I see in the Philippine market with 5W30-5W40 viscosity have API CF-4 and CI-4 ratings. Naalala ko that I read my friend's GS' manual, the minimum engine oil requirement is ACEA A3/B4. 2 of the best oils carry this specification: Motul Specific CRDi and Liqui Moly TopTec 4100. The API rating is SN (gas) for Motul, CF for Liqui Moly.

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk

[IMm29]

Well, suffice it to say that the GS's engine requires good oil for the technology that it has and the performance that it gives. Not the CF crap that casa is peddling.

I suppose your TB's engine has a similar requirement?

[Wh1stl3r]

I'd think CJ-4 is better than CF though. If the extended drain interval is the worry with CJ-4, then perhaps it would be better to stick with the 5,000 km drain interval and stay with CI-4 diesel mineral oil (Delo 400, Rimula R4X, etc.)

I think CJ-4 is better too. I had a CJ-4 oil sample tested on my Navara and according to the lab could go 10Tkms. The Starex is a different engine though, and I'll have to have it tested independently to see if it can do the same on this car. Sabi naman sa oil forums shear stability is a possible issue on mineral oils if used in a high temp diesel. No EGT gauge here but it feels like the Starex engine runs really hot. I'll probably send a 10,000 Km oil sample to the lab, but I still have 2 years left of "warranty".

[jaggerx3]

Meron akong Chevron Delo na CJ-4. Di ko pa nagagamit. Mineral na 15w40 yun. If i use that on GS, I'll still follow 5000 kms change oil

[numbah5]

Well, suffice it to say that the GS's engine requires good oil for the technology that it has and the performance that it gives. Not the CF crap that casa is peddling.

I suppose your TB's engine has a similar requirement?

Well, if it's ACEA A3/B4, then it's a good oil for the GS. I believe that HGMO does not put its ACEA specification, which makes it harder to believe that it is a good oil for the GS.

OT:
As for the Trailblazer, GM has formulated its own oil specification independent from API and ACEA. They call it dexos. dexos1 for gas, dexos2 for diesel. Here in the Philippines, only the AC Delco Supreme 5W30 oil sold by Chevrolet casas and Liqui Moly TopTec 4600 5W30 have dexos2 specifications.

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk

[bryan lim]

That 5.5 km/L is not too far off for city drives and bumper to bumper traffic. The CRDi engine is not a frugal one in that scenario to say the least. Take it out of town and you'll be a happy camper.

What oil did you put in though?

Repsol sir at fronte. . . .dont know what kind of repsol, i assume they know what to put in :-)

[bryan lim]

Mga bro, mas matipid ba ang manual compare automatic transmision? Lets say same crdi vgt . . . Starex

[glenn_duke]

That 5.5 km/L is not too far off for city drives and bumper to bumper traffic. The CRDi engine is not a frugal one in that scenario to say the least. Take it out of town and you'll be a happy camper.

What oil did you put in though?

Normal na talaga ang 5.5km/l sa CRDI Starex, ganyan din FC ko.

[bryan lim]

Normal na talaga ang 5.5km/l sa CRDI Starex, ganyan din FC ko.

Thank you for the respond, nag lagay po ako ng power up, yun nilalagyan ng catalyst . . . Nag imrpove naman ang consumption ko, naging 6.5km / liter . .citydrive. Nakakapanibago lang kasi. I came from driving an adventure with 9km/liter .

[IMm29]

Repsol sir at fronte. . . .dont know what kind of repsol, i assume they know what to put in :-)

Hard to say if the oil contributed in the FC without knowing the viscosity. For future oil changes please take this down for reference.

Posted using TocinoTalk