In fairness all the bottles that i bought are sealed with "Zic" written on the seal can you tamper with that? I check their website and I saw drums of Zic oil that they are selling.
In fairness all the bottles that i bought are sealed with "Zic" written on the seal can you tamper with that? I check their website and I saw drums of Zic oil that they are selling.
Pwede pa siguro yung scenario where some "lesser" refiner/blender would try to pass off its products by imitating the packaging/label of another.
Ex: Fake auto parts. "Toyota" kuno, pero class A replacement lang. Ginaya yung box ng orig.
Yun nga lang, madali mahuli ito , and given iilan lang ang local blenders/refiners, madali sila ma-pinpoint. Even small players in the petroleum industry entail billion peso investments in capital/equipment, etc., and I don't think they would risk throwing all that away from the ensuing scandal if found out.
Ok lang yan.
Half a liter old oil from previous change oil ihalo mo ngayon kahit na 6-1 year ago pa yan nabuksan it won't make any difference just like mag open ka ng new bottle at mag top-up ng half liter sa engine mo. It won't make your existing oil sa engine na biglang maging bago.
So doesn't matter.
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Baka naman in your case, yung oil sa package, sa mga lumang cardboard/packaging na ginamit. Tutal, baka inisip nila pang secure/balot lang naman, and ang impt. is that the bottles arrive intact.
I wouldn't be unthinkable for a shop that sells oils/petroleum products to have a few spills here & there... and yung ginamit na scap cardboard etc. lang yung lying around in the shop.
"Reusing the original containers? Pwede, pero parang ang hirap ata gawin"
I think it can be done pero maliit nga lang talaga ang scale, but it's worth it if it's "properly outsourced".
If you happen to be on the way back to Manila from Tagaytay, try to pull down your windows before you cross the Sta Rosa NB toll exit to Sta Rosa SB toll exit. At that crossing you will see informal settlers to your right before you cross the bridge. Mapapansin mo mabango ang paligid, if you're lucky, you might even see bottles of Cetaphil displayed on shelves from makeshift houses. Why would anyone display an expensive item in a makeshift setting and a crossing at that? Hmmm..
advice from the nissan gt-r engine production leader
Last edited by baludoy; June 13th, 2023 at 11:42 AM.
summary.
if you want your engine to last a long long time, i.e., at least 250,000 miles,
using cheap, regular mineral oil and changing every 3000 miles, is better than using expensive oil and replacing it every 6000 miles.
and replace oil filter every other oil change.
replacing engine oil does two things.
it replenishes the oil additives,
but more importantly,
it rids the engine of all those microscopic metal bits that act as sandpaper.
This is a car forum after all so I don't think anyone here is justifying extended oil change intervals (like 10,000km) with the use of fully synthetic oil.
I use fully synthetic, but still follow the recommended 5000km (3000mi) oil change interval. Also replace filter every oil change.
Aside from the engine itself, there are genuine benefits to using fully synthetic oil:
1) For vehicles with DPF/GPF, full synthetic oil will have lower SAPS (sulfated ash, phosphorus and sulfur) which will extend intervals between cleaning and prolong the life of the particulate filter. And those DPF/GPFs can get quite expensive.
2) Mineral oils also tend to have higher phosphorus content and may not comply with more recent standards like ILSAC GF-5, or ACEA C. Using fully synthetic oil can extend the life of the catalytic converter.
Last edited by Dr.Kamiya; June 14th, 2023 at 12:40 AM.
& synthetics have higher viscosity index. More stable, viscosity varies less as temps change. They are less volatile, too.
I opt synthetic(preferably ACEA C3) & change at the interval I do mineral. Every 5k kms at most.
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If you ask 5 mechanics that question, you're more than likely to get 5 different answers. lol
You can always play it safe and follow the manual to the letter, but that also means adhering to the "X kilometers or Y months, whichever comes first" condition.
So, do you replace the oil with only <1,000km after 6 months?
Has anyone gone through a UOA to find out the OCI sweet spot for their specific engines?
Check CarCareNut's YT channel. He has seen the ill effects of extended OCIs on the Toyotas he has been servicing. Oil changes don't really cost much, esp when DIY'd.
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Even if not DIY'd its cheap. Meron sa amin malapit, P250 lang labor sa oil change.
I also don't cheap out by using mineral oil. You constantly worry if it can do well with "spirited driving". Full synthetic only for peace of mind. The P1,000 you saved by using mineral oil is not worth it.
that question was posted in some fb group yesterday. owner drives 1 km to work, 1km back. everyday. uses motorcycle for errands. sees expressway only 2x a year. prime example of short-tripping![]()
in this case the oil should be replaced, maybe even earlier than 6mo. but maybe it's easier to just drive it for a longer period every 2 weeks or so, to boil off the dilution
Personally, I think engine oils should be replaced based on engine run-hours, especially with the type of traffic we have here. I think that is the basis of most vehicles' maintenance reminders. Probably uses an algorithm that's based off the engine runtime and current mileage.
Here's another showing not all Toyotas are equally reliable. 3rd gen Priuses/CT200 are among the weak 1s.
https://youtu.be/DxVdwwPp8kI
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car makers want you to buy a new car that's why planned obsolescence is built-in. ever wondered why your PC/laptop can sense fan RPM and trigger a warning if there's a fan failure, while your car can'tthey're simply not incentivized to provide a good algorithm for the maintenance minder so the algo is probably tuned so that the engine fails prematurely (but still way beyond the warranty)
PS you could probably build an obd2 device that monitors run-hours, temp, calendar time, etc to determine when you should change the oil
I still have my ScanGauge II and UltraGauge OBD2 gauges. I think one or both has some capability to measure engine runtime. Too bad they don't work on the 2KD Innova. Different protocol.
There are standalone engine hour gauges available that are typically used on heavy or stationary engines like generators.