Valve Clearance Adjustment - 2E Engine

**Arey** · July 7th, 2013 11:55 PM

Need help po. I have a noisy 2E engine. Madaming mechanic na po tumingin and most of them told me na either valve adjustment lang or pedeng need na top-overhaul. Di na kc ako mapakali sa tunog ng sasakyan. Bukod sa sobrang ingay.. nakakaawa pakinggan ung makina na parang unti-unting nasisira. So pina-adjust ko ung valve clearance. Twice sa magkaibang mechanic pero ganun pa din ung ingay. Ung una.. baka daw need na palitan ung camshaft ko kc may konting tama na ung mga lobe. Ung pangalawa naman.. baka daw piston/ring na daw kaya need na daw dukutin.

Kaya ako na nag-adjust. Bumili ako ng feeler guage sa ACE hardware. Ilang beses ako nag-check ng clearance. Before and after adjusting while engine is hot and cold kaya nakuha ko ung increase ng clearance from cold to hot. To make the story short, napatahimik ko ung makina. :barmy: May konting "tikitik" pa din pero madi-differentiate mo talaga ung malaking ingay na nabawas.

Ung slight noise medyo ok na sa akin. Problem ko naman now, naging rough ung idle ko and minsan namamatay while driving.

Usually pag malamig pa ung engine and while breaking or stopping.

Questions po..

1. Possible po ba na ung cause ng rough idle ay ung cylinder head cover gasket lang? Di kc ako nagpalit saka di ko din muna nilagyan ng silicone.

2. Nasobrahan kaya ung adjust ko? At engine cold.. 0.004" kc ginawa ko. At 0.005" kc malakas pa din ung noise. First adjustment ko kc 0.006" during cold tapos warmup ko ung engine to normal operating temperature then check agad ng clearance.. lumuwag sya up to 0.009". Kaya ginawa ko 0.004 ung last adjustment ko.

3. May kinalaman kaya ung konting pudpod sa mga lobe ng camshaft ko?

4. Ipa top overhaul ko na kaya? :headache:

Another problem kc pag-ipapagawa ko.. wala akong kilalang trusted mechanic. I hope someone can help me please. TIA! Sorry for the long post.

Sincerely,
Arey

**jick.cejoco** · July 8th, 2013 07:42 AM

Originally Posted by Arey

Need help po. I have a noisy 2E engine. Madaming mechanic na po tumingin and most of them told me na either valve adjustment lang or pedeng need na top-overhaul. Di na kc ako mapakali sa tunog ng sasakyan. Bukod sa sobrang ingay.. nakakaawa pakinggan ung makina na parang unti-unting nasisira. So pina-adjust ko ung valve clearance. Twice sa magkaibang mechanic pero ganun pa din ung ingay. Ung una.. baka daw need na palitan ung camshaft ko kc may konting tama na ung mga lobe. Ung pangalawa naman.. baka daw piston/ring na daw kaya need na daw dukutin.

Kaya ako na nag-adjust. Bumili ako ng feeler guage sa ACE hardware. Ilang beses ako nag-check ng clearance. Before and after adjusting while engine is hot and cold kaya nakuha ko ung increase ng clearance from cold to hot. To make the story short, napatahimik ko ung makina. :barmy: May konting "tikitik" pa din pero madi-differentiate mo talaga ung malaking ingay na nabawas.

Ung slight noise medyo ok na sa akin. Problem ko naman now, naging rough ung idle ko and minsan namamatay while driving.

Usually pag malamig pa ung engine and while breaking or stopping.

Questions po..

1. Possible po ba na ung cause ng rough idle ay ung cylinder head cover gasket lang? Di kc ako nagpalit saka di ko din muna nilagyan ng silicone.

2. Nasobrahan kaya ung adjust ko? At engine cold.. 0.004" kc ginawa ko. At 0.005" kc malakas pa din ung noise. First adjustment ko kc 0.006" during cold tapos warmup ko ung engine to normal operating temperature then check agad ng clearance.. lumuwag sya up to 0.009". Kaya ginawa ko 0.004 ung last adjustment ko.

3. May kinalaman kaya ung konting pudpod sa mga lobe ng camshaft ko?

4. Ipa top overhaul ko na kaya? :headache:

Another problem kc pag-ipapagawa ko.. wala akong kilalang trusted mechanic. I hope someone can help me please. TIA! Sorry for the long post.

Sincerely,
Arey

your 0.004" is too narrow. it will cause the vlaves to burn.

2E engine toyota Valve clearance adjustment.mpg - YouTube

**Arey** · July 8th, 2013 11:26 AM

Originally Posted by jick.cejoco

your 0.004" is too narrow. it will cause the vlaves to burn.

2E engine toyota Valve clearance adjustment.mpg - YouTube

Thanks for the reply Jick. Actually I've watch that video many times

. And many other videos and articles on how to properly adjust valve clearance. I know it's narrower than the standard. But if the engine is already running at normal operating temperature, assuming my test of hot and cold clearance is correct, the gap would increase from 0.004" to 0.007" which is still very close to 0.008" (HOT) gap standard for the 2E engine. I wanted to make the gap at only 0.005" so it would increase to 0.008" but the loud "tikitik" sound is still there. Also, the engine runs a little rough too but not as rough as it is now when the gap is at 0.004" (cold).

Also maybe someone can confirm my conclusion about the increase in gap from cold to hot of around 0.003". I hope someone already did the same test.

If I left it alone like that for a while.. would it instantly ruin my valves? How long or how many kilometers before it will cause my valves to burn? Gusto ko muna sana i-observe ung sasakyan for a few drives here and there. TIA!

Sincerely,
Arey

**jick.cejoco** · July 8th, 2013 02:59 PM

Originally Posted by Arey

Thanks for the reply Jick. Actually I've watch that video many times

. And many other videos and articles on how to properly adjust valve clearance. I know it's narrower than the standard. But if the engine is already running at normal operating temperature, assuming my test of hot and cold clearance is correct, the gap would increase from 0.004" to 0.007" which is still very close to 0.008" (HOT) gap standard for the 2E engine. I wanted to make the gap at only 0.005" so it would increase to 0.008" but the loud "tikitik" sound is still there. Also, the engine runs a little rough too but not as rough as it is now when the gap is at 0.004" (cold).

Also maybe someone can confirm my conclusion about the increase in gap from cold to hot of around 0.003". I hope someone already did the same test.

If I left it alone like that for a while.. would it instantly ruin my valves? How long or how many kilometers before it will cause my valves to burn? Gusto ko muna sana i-observe ung sasakyan for a few drives here and there. TIA!

Sincerely,
Arey

E series engines are known to have a very small squish area. accumulated carbon decreases this squish and the probability the pistons and the valves collide is high specially with high carbon buildup. adjust the gaps as recommended and refrain from assumed gaps when the temperature changes. the smaller the valve clearance, the closer the pistons are to the valves.

**Arey** · July 10th, 2013 10:44 PM

Originally Posted by jick.cejoco

E series engines are known to have a very small squish area. accumulated carbon decreases this squish and the probability the pistons and the valves collide is high specially with high carbon buildup.

I hope it's not the same with my case.

adjust the gaps as recommended and refrain from assumed gaps when the temperature changes. the smaller the valve clearance, the closer the pistons are to the valves.

It is by no way an assumption. I've done test and got result which get me to the conclusion. Reason I won't adjust it when hot is because most probably I won't be able to finish the adjustment while the engine is still hot since I'm too meticulous and I really want the gaps to be perfect and all the same.

Sincerely,
Arey

**dr. d** · July 11th, 2013 02:20 AM

if the manual says to adjust them while hot, then that's what you do. if it says adjust cold, then that's what you do. if it says you can adjust hot or adjust cold, then you have a choice. and "cold" means at least 8 hours of non-use, while "hot" means normal operating temperature, which can last quite a while after you turned off the engine.. more than enough time for a decent clearance job.
the designers have a good reason why they instruct you to adjust hot. obviously, they do not think highly of your cold-to-hot conversions.
and why not have a compression test? it can give you an idea on the condition of your piston rings.
btw, sometimes, when the apposing surfaces are pitted, un-even, or not perfectly perpendicular to the long axis, there is no way you can properly adjust to the correct clearance. you have to get them to be smooth-surfaced first. sometimes, it's too far gone, you have to replace... come to think of it, i wonder what the condition of your mating surfaces is...
my 86 centavos' worth..

**jick.cejoco** · July 11th, 2013 09:44 AM

Valve clearance adjustment for your car is 0.9 hours at the dealership flat rate and 1.3 hours commercial. This gives you ample time before the engine cools off. Even if you multiply it by two the engine would still be hot enough. E series engine flaw lies in the insufficient lube to the fulcrum of the rocker arms an eventually lead to wear. Check the ball and socket fulcrum end for wear

**Arey** · July 11th, 2013 04:15 PM

Originally Posted by dr. d

the designers have a good reason why they instruct you to adjust hot. obviously, they do not think highly of your cold-to-hot conversions.
and why not have a compression test? it can give you an idea on the condition of your piston rings.
btw, sometimes, when the apposing surfaces are pitted, un-even, or not perfectly perpendicular to the long axis, there is no way you can properly adjust to the correct clearance. you have to get them to be smooth-surfaced first. sometimes, it's too far gone, you have to replace... come to think of it, i wonder what the condition of your mating surfaces is...
my 86 centavos' worth..

Hi dr. d. Thanks for the reply. I'm thinking of those things too. I just figured the gap would still be acceptable. Do you think it's a good idea to polish the camshaft? I like a compression test too but I don't know anyone near Taguig that has a compression test.

Originally Posted by jick.cejoco

Valve clearance adjustment for your car is 0.9 hours at the dealership flat rate and 1.3 hours commercial. This gives you ample time before the engine cools off. Even if you multiply it by two the engine would still be hot enough. E series engine flaw lies in the insufficient lube to the fulcrum of the rocker arms an eventually lead to wear. Check the ball and socket fulcrum end for wear

Thanks for the reply jick. I'll try to adjust it when hot after a long drive. I also notice that lack of lube after I disassemble the rocker arms. I just didn't think it was a flaw. Does replacing all the adjusting screw (ball on the bottom) and/or the rocker arms a good idea? Also just to be sure, I checked the rocker arms and seems all identical. They are all the same and interchangeable right?

Sincerely,
Arey

**dr. d** · July 11th, 2013 04:21 PM

Sincerely,
Arey[/QUOTE]

polishing the camshaft lobes? i'm not sure. my fear is, it might significantly alter camshaft lobe geometry, altering lift characteristics...

**jick.cejoco** · July 11th, 2013 08:23 PM

Originally Posted by Arey

Hi dr. d. Thanks for the reply. I'm thinking of those things too. I just figured the gap would still be acceptable. Do you think it's a good idea to polish the camshaft? I like a compression test too but I don't know anyone near Taguig that has a compression test.

Thanks for the reply jick. I'll try to adjust it when hot after a long drive. I also notice that lack of lube after I disassemble the rocker arms. I just didn't think it was a flaw. Does replacing all the adjusting screw (ball on the bottom) and/or the rocker arms a good idea? Also just to be sure, I checked the rocker arms and seems all identical. They are all the same and interchangeable right?

Sincerely,
Arey

replacing the ball and socket sets is the best repair procedure. as far as interchangeability, it is only if the parts are new and virgins. if they already have wear patterns, they should be reinstalled in their original positions