Mineral , semi synthetic or fully synthetic?

[radz15]

Gusto ko sana itry yung zic up 10w40 or zic rv 10w30 sa advie ko. Concern ko lang baka mag leak dahil sa maliit daw na particle ng synthetic. 80k na kasi odo ko

[amoyligo]

Gusto ko sana itry yung zic up 10w40 or zic rv 10w30 sa advie ko. Concern ko lang baka mag leak dahil sa maliit daw na particle ng synthetic. 80k na kasi odo ko

Nagleleak lang naman oil pag kailangan palitan seals ang gasket.

Kumalat yung ganyan belief na pag synthetic magleak at nung sumikat eh nagmukhang totoo.

Pero sa experience ko wala tagas sa innova.

[radz15]

Pati kasi mga ibang mekaniko ganun din sinasabi. Ilan na pala tinakbo na innova mo?

[jut703]

1. G-DLD-1, API CF-4, CF = API Rating(CF-4;CF) = additive requirements (in layman's terms) para sa protection or minimum additives required para sa engine
2. xxWxx = meaning to say, yun viscosity ng oil or lapot o labnaw ng langis

Usually magkahiwalay sila since iba ang specifications or "petaining to"

Ano ba ang naka lagay sa owner's manual?

yun API rating is yun "minimum" na engine oil additives na required para mabigyan ng protection ang engine. C=Combustion/Commercial (para sa diesel engines); Followed by another alphabetical character(the farther from letter "A" means better additives) which is letter "F". Most recent is letters "H(1998),"I"(2001); "I+"(2004) or "J"(2006)

xxWxx = weather grade. sample is 15W-40. W=winter grade. Meaning pag may "xxWxx" meaning may "Winter" Grade at "Summer" grade combined. "15W" means the oil will not solidify -15 deg Celcius (winter) and "40" (summer) means that the oil can maintain it's "viscosity" at 40+ deg Celcius ambient temperature.

So, for example, pag sinabi sa manual na "15W-40, API CF-4" meaning yan ang pinaka minimum na reuired na oil para sa sasakyanb mo.

Going lower than "CF-4" means less additives para sa engine; going "thicker" than "15W-40" such as 20W-50 or SAE 40 means mas malapot ang langis then mahihirapan ang engine mo, which will lead to breakdowns.

15W-40 does not have anything to do with temperature directly. It doesn't mean that the limits are -15 and +40 deg C. If lubes only held their viscosity until 40 deg then they'd evaporate at an engine's operating temp of about 120 deg C. The numbers just refer to their viscosity ratings (0W, 5W, 10W, 15W, 20W and 30, 40, 50 are the usual ratings for locally available oils).

The common misconception is that lower viscosity is better. That is, 5W-30 is better than 20W-50. That's not exactly the case, as it's the API rating that determines the quality of the oil. Think of the viscosity index as the size of your shirt - S is not inferior to XL, it's just that it fits different people, just as different viscosities are recommended for different engines and different operating conditions.

Locally, 0W-20 or 0W-30 is a bit too thin for our local conditions. You need a fair bit of viscosity to properly lubricate your engine under hot conditions. On the flipside, oil that's too viscous (thick) can affect your fuel economy. Your best bet is to follow the recommended range of viscosities that your manual recommends. Personally I'd recommend 5W-40 or 10W-40 for a good balance of fuel economy and protection under extreme conditions such as the daily hell that we know as EDSA.

People also recommend thicker oils for older cars to avoid gasket leaks. While this makes sense in theory, the better approach is to get your gaskets repaired once they wear too thin. In any case, you can always experiment from 20W-50 to 15W-40 to 5W-30 if you want (as long as all these viscosities are in the recommended range of your manual), to test if there's any difference.

Now, let's go back to API ratings. As already described, the higher the letter after S (for gasoline) and C (diesel) indicates the quality of additives that a particular lubricant has. CI is better than CF, just as SN is better then SJ. Think of it as CF is Bench, CH is Uniqlo, while CI is Fred Perry. This is what you should be paying more attention to rather than the viscosity - decide on your size (viscosity), then what level of quality/brand you want (API rating). Most oils will actually have two ratings, one for gas and one for diesel (i.e. You might find in your label something like SN/CI). This is because even if lubes are marketed towards a particular engine type (Havoline for gas engines, Delo for diesel), they are actually interchangeable.

Lastly, for the terms mineral, semi-synth, and fully synth. All 3 are still actually made of mostly mineral oil. Fully synthetic isn't really 100% synthetic. Semi-synth is around 8-10% synthetic while fully synthetic is around 12-15% synthetic. Again, synthetic isn't automatically better than semi-synth or mineral. It's still the API rating that's more definitive. However, synthetic oils are more durable and therefore can have longer oil change intervals. If you stick to a 5000 km PMS schedule though, it's more prudent to use SN 10W-40 semi-synthetic oil since this is about half the price of an SN 5W-40 oil, even though they'll have the same performance.

Lastly, unlike fuel, which is 99% the same between different manufacturers, there are actually bigger differences between different brands of oil. In general, those oils that are developed in coordination between petroleum companies and car manufacturers are the best ones. This is because you're assured that those oils were designed specifically to meet manufacturer specs - oil companies respond to the changes of engine tech. Shady brands and local bottlers don't have the same level of R&D, and often their claims of high API ratings are fraudulent as these oils don't even get tested by the API.

[amoyligo]

Pati kasi mga ibang mekaniko ganun din sinasabi. Ilan na pala tinakbo na innova mo?

150,000kms.

Yung mga mechanico kasi dito sa atin mga puro sabi-sabi lang. Pati nga sa oil filter kinontra pa dala ko fleetguard. Vic daw maganda. Ngiti lang ako kasi obvious na walang mga alam hindi tama na maglecture ako.

[midnytwarrior]

15W-40 does not have anything to do with temperature directly. It doesn't mean that the limits are -15 and +40 deg C. If lubes only held their viscosity until 40 deg then they'd evaporate at an engine's operating temp of about 120 deg C. The numbers just refer to their viscosity ratings (0W, 5W, 10W, 15W, 20W and 30, 40, 50 are the usual ratings for locally available oils).

The common misconception is that lower viscosity is better. That is, 5W-30 is better than 20W-50. That's not exactly the case, as it's the API rating that determines the quality of the oil. Think of the viscosity index as the size of your shirt - S is not inferior to XL, it's just that it fits different people, just as different viscosities are recommended for different engines and different operating conditions.

Locally, 0W-20 or 0W-30 is a bit too thin for our local conditions. You need a fair bit of viscosity to properly lubricate your engine under hot conditions. On the flipside, oil that's too viscous (thick) can affect your fuel economy. Your best bet is to follow the recommended range of viscosities that your manual recommends. Personally I'd recommend 5W-40 or 10W-40 for a good balance of fuel economy and protection under extreme conditions such as the daily hell that we know as EDSA.

People also recommend thicker oils for older cars to avoid gasket leaks. While this makes sense in theory, the better approach is to get your gaskets repaired once they wear too thin. In any case, you can always experiment from 20W-50 to 15W-40 to 5W-30 if you want (as long as all these viscosities are in the recommended range of your manual), to test if there's any difference.

Now, let's go back to API ratings. As already described, the higher the letter after S (for gasoline) and C (diesel) indicates the quality of additives that a particular lubricant has. CI is better than CF, just as SN is better then SJ. Think of it as CF is Bench, CH is Uniqlo, while CI is Fred Perry. This is what you should be paying more attention to rather than the viscosity - decide on your size (viscosity), then what level of quality/brand you want (API rating). Most oils will actually have two ratings, one for gas and one for diesel (i.e. You might find in your label something like SN/CI). This is because even if lubes are marketed towards a particular engine type (Havoline for gas engines, Delo for diesel), they are actually interchangeable.

Lastly, for the terms mineral, semi-synth, and fully synth. All 3 are still actually made of mostly mineral oil. Fully synthetic isn't really 100% synthetic. Semi-synth is around 8-10% synthetic while fully synthetic is around 12-15% synthetic. Again, synthetic isn't automatically better than semi-synth or mineral. It's still the API rating that's more definitive. However, synthetic oils are more durable and therefore can have longer oil change intervals. If you stick to a 5000 km PMS schedule though, it's more prudent to use SN 10W-40 semi-synthetic oil since this is about half the price of an SN 5W-40 oil, even though they'll have the same performance.

Lastly, unlike fuel, which is 99% the same between different manufacturers, there are actually bigger differences between different brands of oil. In general, those oils that are developed in coordination between petroleum companies and car manufacturers are the best ones. This is because you're assured that those oils were designed specifically to meet manufacturer specs - oil companies respond to the changes of engine tech. Shady brands and local bottlers don't have the same level of R&D, and often their claims of high API ratings are fraudulent as these oils don't even get tested by the API.

Very well said Sir!

I couldn't have said it better myself..

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15W-40 does not have anything to do with temperature directly. It doesn't mean that the limits are -15 and +40 deg C. If lubes only held their viscosity until 40 deg then they'd evaporate at an engine's operating temp of about 120 deg C. The numbers just refer to their viscosity ratings (0W, 5W, 10W, 15W, 20W and 30, 40, 50 are the usual ratings for locally available oils).

The common misconception is that lower viscosity is better. That is, 5W-30 is better than 20W-50. That's not exactly the case, as it's the API rating that determines the quality of the oil. Think of the viscosity index as the size of your shirt - S is not inferior to XL, it's just that it fits different people, just as different viscosities are recommended for different engines and different operating conditions.

Locally, 0W-20 or 0W-30 is a bit too thin for our local conditions. You need a fair bit of viscosity to properly lubricate your engine under hot conditions. On the flipside, oil that's too viscous (thick) can affect your fuel economy. Your best bet is to follow the recommended range of viscosities that your manual recommends. Personally I'd recommend 5W-40 or 10W-40 for a good balance of fuel economy and protection under extreme conditions such as the daily hell that we know as EDSA.

People also recommend thicker oils for older cars to avoid gasket leaks. While this makes sense in theory, the better approach is to get your gaskets repaired once they wear too thin. In any case, you can always experiment from 20W-50 to 15W-40 to 5W-30 if you want (as long as all these viscosities are in the recommended range of your manual), to test if there's any difference.

Now, let's go back to API ratings. As already described, the higher the letter after S (for gasoline) and C (diesel) indicates the quality of additives that a particular lubricant has. CI is better than CF, just as SN is better then SJ. Think of it as CF is Bench, CH is Uniqlo, while CI is Fred Perry. This is what you should be paying more attention to rather than the viscosity - decide on your size (viscosity), then what level of quality/brand you want (API rating). Most oils will actually have two ratings, one for gas and one for diesel (i.e. You might find in your label something like SN/CI). This is because even if lubes are marketed towards a particular engine type (Havoline for gas engines, Delo for diesel), they are actually interchangeable.

Lastly, for the terms mineral, semi-synth, and fully synth. All 3 are still actually made of mostly mineral oil. Fully synthetic isn't really 100% synthetic. Semi-synth is around 8-10% synthetic while fully synthetic is around 12-15% synthetic. Again, synthetic isn't automatically better than semi-synth or mineral. It's still the API rating that's more definitive. However, synthetic oils are more durable and therefore can have longer oil change intervals. If you stick to a 5000 km PMS schedule though, it's more prudent to use SN 10W-40 semi-synthetic oil since this is about half the price of an SN 5W-40 oil, even though they'll have the same performance.

Lastly, unlike fuel, which is 99% the same between different manufacturers, there are actually bigger differences between different brands of oil. In general, those oils that are developed in coordination between petroleum companies and car manufacturers are the best ones. This is because you're assured that those oils were designed specifically to meet manufacturer specs - oil companies respond to the changes of engine tech. Shady brands and local bottlers don't have the same level of R&D, and often their claims of high API ratings are fraudulent as these oils don't even get tested by the API.

Very well said Sir!

I couldn't have said it better myself..

[sphinxz]

You welcome sir.
Normally naka indicate din yun SAE viscosity rating na required na engine oil sa manual.

Ang mga engine manufacturers ang nag dictate ng mga oil viscosity at additive requirement para sa engine. So pag hinde nagamitan ng required na viscosity at additive yun engine eh magkakaproblema in the long term.

What I mean here is, kaya may viscosity requirement is para sapat ang thickness ng oil para maka circulate sa loob ng makina and mag provide ng tamang lubrication.

Yes meron 5W-40 na grade. Not sure about for diesel engines, pero recently may nakita ako na TRD Motul na 5W-40 diesel engine oil.

But better check mo yun manual para makita yun mga allowed na oil viscosity na pwedeng gamitin sa engine.

BTW, ano year model ng sasakyan mo, ilan na mileage at ano yun oil na gamit mo dati?

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You welcome sir.
Normally naka indicate din yun SAE viscosity rating na required na engine oil sa manual.

Ang mga engine manufacturers ang nag dictate ng mga oil viscosity at additive requirement para sa engine. So pag hinde nagamitan ng required na viscosity at additive yun engine eh magkakaproblema in the long term.

What I mean here is, kaya may viscosity requirement is para sapat ang thickness ng oil para maka circulate sa loob ng makina and mag provide ng tamang lubrication.

Yes meron 5W-40 na grade. Not sure about for diesel engines, pero recently may nakita ako na TRD Motul na 5W-40 diesel engine oil.

But better check mo yun manual para makita yun mga allowed na oil viscosity na pwedeng gamitin sa engine.

BTW, ano year model ng sasakyan mo, ilan na mileage at ano yun oil na gamit mo dati?

It's a 2012 MT model 50k mileage. Casa maintained every 5k using only FS oil with records so assured na true. Gusto ko imaintain pero outside casa na.
Anybody knows where in the manual I can find the recommended xxWxx rating for an innova? Di ko talaga mahanap.

[sphinxz]

15W-40 does not have anything to do with temperature directly. It doesn't mean that the limits are -15 and +40 deg C. If lubes only held their viscosity until 40 deg then they'd evaporate at an engine's operating temp of about 120 deg C. The numbers just refer to their viscosity ratings (0W, 5W, 10W, 15W, 20W and 30, 40, 50 are the usual ratings for locally available oils).

The common misconception is that lower viscosity is better. That is, 5W-30 is better than 20W-50. That's not exactly the case, as it's the API rating that determines the quality of the oil. Think of the viscosity index as the size of your shirt - S is not inferior to XL, it's just that it fits different people, just as different viscosities are recommended for different engines and different operating conditions.

Locally, 0W-20 or 0W-30 is a bit too thin for our local conditions. You need a fair bit of viscosity to properly lubricate your engine under hot conditions. On the flipside, oil that's too viscous (thick) can affect your fuel economy. Your best bet is to follow the recommended range of viscosities that your manual recommends. Personally I'd recommend 5W-40 or 10W-40 for a good balance of fuel economy and protection under extreme conditions such as the daily hell that we know as EDSA.

People also recommend thicker oils for older cars to avoid gasket leaks. While this makes sense in theory, the better approach is to get your gaskets repaired once they wear too thin. In any case, you can always experiment from 20W-50 to 15W-40 to 5W-30 if you want (as long as all these viscosities are in the recommended range of your manual), to test if there's any difference.

Now, let's go back to API ratings. As already described, the higher the letter after S (for gasoline) and C (diesel) indicates the quality of additives that a particular lubricant has. CI is better than CF, just as SN is better then SJ. Think of it as CF is Bench, CH is Uniqlo, while CI is Fred Perry. This is what you should be paying more attention to rather than the viscosity - decide on your size (viscosity), then what level of quality/brand you want (API rating). Most oils will actually have two ratings, one for gas and one for diesel (i.e. You might find in your label something like SN/CI). This is because even if lubes are marketed towards a particular engine type (Havoline for gas engines, Delo for diesel), they are actually interchangeable.

Lastly, for the terms mineral, semi-synth, and fully synth. All 3 are still actually made of mostly mineral oil. Fully synthetic isn't really 100% synthetic. Semi-synth is around 8-10% synthetic while fully synthetic is around 12-15% synthetic. Again, synthetic isn't automatically better than semi-synth or mineral. It's still the API rating that's more definitive. However, synthetic oils are more durable and therefore can have longer oil change intervals. If you stick to a 5000 km PMS schedule though, it's more prudent to use SN 10W-40 semi-synthetic oil since this is about half the price of an SN 5W-40 oil, even though they'll have the same performance.

Lastly, unlike fuel, which is 99% the same between different manufacturers, there are actually bigger differences between different brands of oil. In general, those oils that are developed in coordination between petroleum companies and car manufacturers are the best ones. This is because you're assured that those oils were designed specifically to meet manufacturer specs - oil companies respond to the changes of engine tech. Shady brands and local bottlers don't have the same level of R&D, and often their claims of high API ratings are fraudulent as these oils don't even get tested by the API.

Ito talaga ang pinakagusto ko sa tsikot. Yung mga very informative posts and takes the extra mile to explain in detail. Maraming salamat sa inyo.

[StockEngine]

It's a 2012 MT model 50k mileage. Casa maintained every 5k using only FS oil with records so assured na true. Gusto ko imaintain pero outside casa na.
Anybody knows where in the manual I can find the recommended xxWxx rating for an innova? Di ko talaga mahanap.

Its on the very last chapter.

[bloowolf]

Some people recommend a longer (15k & up) C/O interval for FS, on the belief that modern oils can hold their viscosity better. While this may be true in some sense, won't the oil start to thicken (with all the dirt & soot) & form sludge? By that time, won't all the additives be burned up & won't the oil turn acidic with all the by products of combustion?