Quote Originally Posted by glennjv View Post
It's my first time posting in this forum.
My Dad told me to research about LPG Conversion and I stumbled upon this site when a LPG convert posted the links in tipidpc.com. (This was just last week)
People should post links to the tsikot.com Auto-LPG thread in other sites outside tsikot.com so those interested can find it easier. So far this is the most comprehensive auto-lpg discussion in the country.


This is actually the first forum my dad (in his late 50's) actually read and got him interested in it. This thread actually persuaded him to go ahead with the LPG conversion in a matter of days.
Hmmm, I guess if he found the Camry conversion thread, he would jumped at it immediately?


I'm thinking of having a cylindrical tank 60L installed since my line of thinking is that in case of a rear collision there will be more crumple zone before it hits the tank. And I get to refuel less to since it hold more fuel.
Would this be wise?

Or a torodial tank be a wiser move? I was thinking the torodial tank when hit from the rear will puncture more easily because of the donut shape..
And lesser fuel capacity means I need to refuel a lot more often.
In cases of vehicular collision, either tank will crumple and NOT rupture if the forces of collision would reach the tank.

Generally I would suggest the torrodial tank because that will give you more trunk space, especially if you need to carry bulky cargo items since the Mazda3 trunk isn't as big as other cars.

The cylindrical tank does have a good aspect. The remaining fuel inside will concentrate together in the middle and you can drive near-empty more confidently than with the torrodial tank because the fuel will slosh around more and it would be harder to suck up the last few of liters of LPG from that type of tank.

As for refueling more often, it's more of a function of the either tank's capacity. So if you got a 60L torrodial tank, it would hold as much fuel as a 60L cylindrical tank.

Mike also mentioned the CEL problem the Mazda 3 was known for. Is this a regular occurence? or a twice a year thing?
More like once a month to once every other month thing based on the driver.

He mentioned it happens when it gets lean?
Can this be reset by a normal user? or only shops with computers?
Actual cause isn't yet nailed down. But you can reset the CEL light simply by removing the battery cable for a minute to reset the car's ECU.

what does that mean? when my lpg gas is almost empty or if I rev too much? (I drive relatively slow 80 to 100kph tops)
As mentioned above... actual trigger is not certain. We've brought the Mazda3 to Speedlab for some fine tuning. Ferman of Speedlab got the car to run smoother but the CEL light still does trigger about once a month.


How's the FC? I'm ok in losing 10$ in FC. I usually get 10km/L from alabang to pioneer.
FC is about 10% less than gasoline in our car but I think you can get better FC figures with your highway driving.


I'm having 2nd thoughts because of the "kapihikan" of my Mazda 3 because of the CEL mike mentioned.
Based on what some Mazda people said, it might be the overly sensitive factory ECU that is triggering the CEL warning light. What I think, LPG ecu might be giving a "hiccup" resulting in either an over-rich or over-lean condition momentarily. Its either that or the lubrication cycle might be the root of the problem (over-rich condition).

Kinda hard to diagnose the problem because our Mazda3 is a busy vehicle so downtime for it is hard to schedule.