Mga sir, tanong lang, ok ba to naisip ko na diagram? please po see below:
Audio Wiring Diagram:
Amplifier Spec:
...thanks in advance![]()
Sir Erick, why do you still need those tweeters, wala bang kasamang tweeter yun ibang speakers?
wala po sir hindi po sya coax, and meron kasing butas naka abang sa pillars, panget tignan sir pag walang naka salpak sa tweeter
Besides the tweeters and subs, yun 4 na speakers puro mid-bass? Wala bang kasamang passive filters yun 4 na mid-bass?
yun nga po ang gusto ko itanong sir, curius ako kung pwede yung kagaya sa diagram, direcho sa amplifier yung apat na speakers, front and rear... front right with rear right.. front left with rear left.. exactly po dun sa diagram.. is it possible po??
wala po sir e
If that's how you plan on wiring those 4 speakers exactly as shown on the diagram then you are wiring them in parallel.
IMO, no need na to install those mid-bass on the rear since you already have a subwoofer. Besides doing so will only make your amplifier work harder since you are wiring them in parallel. Even if you wire them in series, hindi mo rin naman pwedeng ma adjust independently yun volume nang rear mid-bass mo since it is sharing the same signal with the front mid-bass.
thanks sir, you mean parang magiging 3 lang ang speakers ko sir, two front and the subwoofer
how about yung tweeter sir? tama ba yung wiring nya?
Been reading some reviews about car speakers and I seem to have read a few reviews that mentioned the speakers sound/performance increased after break-in. I'm new to automotive audio systems but this is the 1st time I've read na may breaking-in period din pala ang ang mga bagong speakers. So. is this really true that the full potential of the speakers ay lalabas after break-in and how long does it take to break in the speakers? Please enlighten me on this. Thanks
For in-car listening, it's not always more drivers = better. Unlike at home where you have a large room, your car is a small enclosed space while driving. This means there's more to it than just adding drivers. For example, those rear speakers might in fact reduce what you hear from your subwoofer. How? By nulling some of the waves of your subwoofer/midbass.
*D3nB3r
Break-in is a subjective matter. Some believe in it, some doesn't, some are in the middle. But as a matter of fact, most speakers are already partially "broken-in" at their manufacturing factory during quality control testing. If you don't believe me, try Youtubing how the likes of Dynaudio or Focal-JMLab manufacturing process.
At the end of the day, breaking in is true because you can quantify the changes of the speaker due to a softened suspension, etc. However, it won't make your speakers sound from crap to great - that's a myth so that installers may dissuade buyers from returning their product.
Thanks for confirming sir jhnkvn. And with your reputation here in tsikot, I'm in no position not to believe you, hehehehe. Kidding aside, your right dahil most reputable sellers have a money back guarantee on their items. It's just that there are so many speaker brands out there that after reading their brochures and reviews, newbies like me will have a conundrum in choosing which one to get. I wanted a Rockford Fosgate P1675-S before and now I'm leaning towards a Kicker DS65.2Your thoughts on these two?
After some backreading and some research more or less im decided to go this set up
Focal flax 3 way
Focal p30
Dynaquest dt 440 (2 pieces)
Now for added questions
Do i need another amp to run the sub or can i just connect if the the extra 2 channels of the other dt440
If i will go a semi active route
Tweeter and midrange to crossover on amp 1
Bass and subwoofer on amp 2
Is this possible and this means i can run this using an audison bit ten processor right ?
Another option is run a full active 3 way with a mosconi 6 to 8 ?
And add another amp for the sub alone. Would a regular 300w class d mono amp do ? Like a firland
Thanks for the replies
Last edited by simonzaide; August 27th, 2014 at 09:44 PM. Reason: typo error
The Focal P30 is a single voice coil subwoofer nominal 4ohms. Just bridge two of the channels of your DT440 for it. It might not have as much power as a mono amplifier but it'll work. In fact, I'll recommend you stick with this setup rather than purchasing a mono amplifier for it. The only time you need a mono amplifier is when you need more power and stability at lower resistance/ohms.
Your Dynaquest DT440 is a four-channel amplifier. Having two of them means you have 8 channels to play with. What I recommend is that you go for full-active 3-way by upgrading your Bit Ten to a Bit One or equivalent (like your mentioned Mosconi 6to8). Since nandyan ka na rin sa point na yan, might as well splurge a few more.
In case you're fearing you'll need more power, just make your subwoofer box bigger.
Okay thanks sir![]()
So the 2 dynaquest amps are enough to power the 3 ways and a sub
Now time to earn more money to afford the bit one![]()
I plan to make a step-by-step upgrade in the future of my setup and hindi yung isang bagsakan lang. First seps muna bilhin ko, then amps, then under seat sub (need the space kasi).
My question is between JBL and Infinity. I know that they are both from Harman DNA but is it worth the money to buy the Infinity Kappa 60.11CS over the JBL’s GTO 609C? Kappa is twice the price of the GTO.
thanks
The Kappa should be around the same price level as the JBL MS62 speakers. I'll get the JBL in that case. Truthfully, at this price point, you might also want to pony up on Focal's entry-level Access speakers 165AS which should start around 9,000php.
But really, the JBL MS62 is excellent at this price point. If you want more brand gravitas, you should go Focal. But on a pure sound quality perspective, the MS62 should trump over its rivals. It's also EISA's 2012 award winner if memory serves right.
I just want to confirm sir jhnkvn if the JBL MS62 na tinutukoy nyo is the same as the JBL MS62C? Yun kasi nakita ko sa mickey’s na site. The JBL MS62C is actually cheaper than Kappa 60.11CS by P1.1k. That’s a lot of savings (if mickey’s updated those prices). Mas mataas lang sensitivity nang Kappa 60.11CS. Also it says that it’s a marine series, does this mean also that the speaker is water resistant? Anyway, I’ll just download the MS62C pdf product guide for further reading.
I don’t have a deep pocket and I’m not really particular sa brand nung speaker. It’s just that, with my limited knowledge in automotive audio it would be best if I stick to the well known/tested brands backed up by engineering/research, reviews and experts here in tsikot. I also believe that “you always get what you paid for”. If di pa kaya nang budget, I tend to save and research muna (like the 25k retrofit I shell out for my headlights) Kaya plan ko for my audio set up is to do it one at a time.
It really pays to ask questions first, thanks sir jhnkvn