audio set-up for beginners [continued]

[rain_012]

maraming salamat master jhnkvn! hindi lang bow, saludo pa ako sa inyo! hehe..

[Harangody]

Maganda ba tunog ng MidSP setup kahit walang bass?

Guys, masasayang ba sound deadener ko pag mag pa change color ako? Baka kasi tangalin.

[jedi]

yup pwede po, di lang naman po pang pickup yung ganyang setup, para po ito sa mga ayaw maglagay ng box.

[rain_012]

maraming salamat master jedi! kung magpa-set up po ako sa shop nyo, pwede po ba makalibre ng pasabay sa pag-install ng facia panel dash kit including the headunit?

maganda po ba quality ng firland kesa morel o mas ok morel? pasensya na dami tanong, dami ko kasing nababasa din na posts,
just wanted to be sure din, 1st time ko magpa-set up ksi if ever, gusto ko sana perfect choice ang mapili ko. hehe..

[jedi]

lets just say na firland is fuji apple, morel is red apple, parehong apple, pero fuji is cheaper... May taong mas nasasarapan sa fuji, meron naman mas gusto ang red...to make it short... Nasa panlasa at pandinig po yan.

Morel tempo and coax, around 15k na po, wala pa pong amp and wires...konti na lang idadagdag pwede na makakuha ng magandang dls seps and coax...

Mahirap din po idefine kung ano ang perfect, at the end of the day dedepende pa din po sa budget kung gaano kaganda kalalabasan.

Sa wiring po pwede maging perfect... Upgrade sa pure copper wires malaking bagay, kahit ilang beses magpalit ng speakers, you can still use the same wires.

[rain_012]

nice apples! thank you master jedi! hehe.. will visit your shop soon!
master jhnkvn, maraming salamat ulit!
very grateful sa inyong dalawa..
mabuhay po kayo!

[rain_012]

mga master, may pahabol pa akong question, sorry.. eto pala yung audio feature nung kenwood HU DPX-M6110U na balak kong
bilihin:

Maximum Output Power : 50W x 4 (MOSFET Power IC)
Front AUX Input
2 Preouts (2.5V)
Rear/Subwoofer Switchable
Subwoofer Level & Low Pass Filter Adjustable
Built In Amp Mute Function
Dual Zone Source & Volume Control
System Q-Ex (Preset & Full Manual Sound Control)
System E's+
Time Alignment
Separate Bass/Mid/Treble Control & Source Tone Memory
Attenuator (-20dB) with Smooth Volume Return

2 ang preouts nya, meaning 2 amps ang maikakabit, 1 for 4amps to power the seps
and coax, 1 amp to power the subs, tama po ba?

[tsikotshop]

Things to look for when choosing the right head unit..
Usability: Your head unit is the part of the car stereo that you interact with most so it is vital to get one that "feels" good to you. Always look at a head unit in a store display and use it for awhile. Try to flip through radio stations and tracks on a CD to see if it is quick and easy. If you have issues with small buttons, imagine what it will be like when you are driving! Models fall in the same price range, so usability is key deciding factor.
Power: Even though many just said not to use the built-in power of a head unit, we know sometimes it is necessary. Bear in mind that the power specifications given by majority of manufacturers for head units are not accurate. They often use terms like "music power" or "peak power" which have little real meaning because there is no standard definition of those terms. If the power is quoted in "RMS" terms then it is usually valid. However, there is still one other place of misconception. Often manufacturers will quote power as "30watts x 4 RMS". The "RMS" seems to mean it is a true indication of power but they are implying that all 4 channels can produce 30watts rms AT THE SAME TIME. With a head unit, this is almost always not true. Because of the small power supplies in head units they can rarely output more than 15-60 watts TOTAL. This means that the power to each channel at maximum loading would only be 1/4 of that total. Some manufacturers are better than others about giving accurate specifications and a few models are available with sophisticated power supplies which have higher power output but they are VERY expensive. If you're paying less than 36000php for a head unit (and most of us are!) then your head unit will not have much power.
Pre-amp outputs: These are a definite for any serious head unit. These outputs enable you to run an amplifier directly without need for any conversion. This is the cleanest output of the head unit. Some units have multiple outputs and sometimes ones that are crossed over. Look for the amount and type that you need for your system but keep in mind future upgrades. One is sufficient but having two to four allow you fade, or adjust the levels of multiple amplifiers right from the head unit. Some head units now offer 4 volt outputs instead of the usual 1-2 volts. This can be very useful since cars have a lot of electrical noise in them. The 4 volt output is less prone to noise, however, you must be certain that the amplifier or crossover being connected to the output can handle 4 volts or you will not be able to use the extra voltage. If your head unit does not have pre-amp level (RCA type) outputs you can buy an adapter which will convert your speaker level outputs to line level.

Pre-Amp and output voltage
Pre amp is usually the control center. Your volume control, tone controls, EQ (if any) and source switching is usually at your pre-amp. The Pre-Amp is designed to be a very clean low signal voltage and take care of any signal modifications you might want to make to the signal (music) BEFORE the signal goes to the amplifier.
Pre-amp signal is usually LOW, it was designed to be low so there is less distortion at this stage. Home pre-amps usually operate with about 1 to 1.5 volts of output, the idea was to keep the voltage down as low as possible to keep the distortion down as low as possible in the pre-amp stage and then after the signal leaves the pre-amp we let the amplifier do what it does well.

In car audio we have used this very low level for years with pretty good track record. But in many cases in car systems there might be some noise. Some of the car stereo manufacturers have stepped up the output voltage of their head units in an attempt to aid us have a noise proof system.

Installers have always found that certain types of noises in a car system can be reduced by turning down the amplifier gain controls. But most of the time the customer gets his system fairly noise free but with no gain!! The system just may not play loud like it should if the gain controls are turned down too far. Turn the headunit all the way up and it still wont get loud. This is where the manufacturers come in with the higher level headunits! Now you can turn them higher, even when your gains are very low (and hopefully any bad noises are also very low)...

Some old fashioned find this added amplification (and distortion) on the headunits a turn off. But the majority of us cant really hear the added distortion and find it much better than the noise !!!

Some rookies find the added headunit voltage an advantage cause now they think their amp will play louder! NOT TRUE! The amp will still have its max output power and it will not change in most cases of the amps max drive can be achieved. Many rookies compare a 1or 2 volt headunit with a 4 to 8 volt headunit and they only notice that with the higher voltage the system gets loud at 10 (on the volume scale) and you used to have to turn it up to 30..!! Some rookies are fooling themselves into thinking this is GOOD! This is better!! But it may not be.

Ideally, a system has a good swing to the volume control... Too much signal voltage into the amp the system will get loud too soon on the volume swing. Not enough signal voltage to the amp and the system volume control can go all the way up and not get loud like you might like it. Setting the amp gain controls correctly will give you this proper swing!

But I still hear them say, "WOW, I got a 5 volt headunit!, it sure plays louder!, its worth the money!"
I just shake my head in amazement...

Head unit power!
Car Stereo head unit power is VERY deceiving! Head units all have HUGE power ratings on the Boxes or right on the front of the units! The highest head unit power I have ever actually tested was 13 watts (at a half way decent THD). So even if the head unit says 35Watts or 40 watts per channel on it don't EVER expect for it to REALLY BE more than 15! Just cant happen!

REAL amplifiers use LARGE power supplies in them with transformers to STEP UP the voltage So that large amounts of power can be made! Head units just don't have room in them For transformers or large power supplies!!!! So NEVER expect more than 15watts per Speaker out of head units! Some of the more reputable head units might LIE on the boxes but If you read the small print in the spec sheets in the owners manual they might admit to the 15watt figure!

[rain_012]

thank you master jon!

eto kasi plan ko ipakabit sa inyo na package sir:

MidSP Package 1
Firland EV602 6.5” Separates (Front)
Firland 602c 6.5” Coaxial Speaker (Rear)
Lightning Lab CLASS AB 100watts rms X 4ch
4awg Premium Lightning Lab Wiring Kit
P14,499
FREE P1,100 worth of Tsikot Damplifiers (2 Sound Deadening Sheets with installation) good for 2 doors

so tama po ba yung sinabi ko na 2 ang preouts nung HU, meaning 2 amps ang maikakabit? dun sa unang preout maikakabit is isang 4ch amps to power the seps and coax then dun sa isa pang preout makakapagkabit pa ng isang mono amp to power the sub kung sakaling gusto kong magdagdag ng sub sa future, tama po ba sir jon?

[The Truth]

I Really would love to have a Sub-woofer to complete my setup..
but trunk space is also valuable to me... what do I do?

Ive been asking around if the under seat plug&play amplified 8" Sub is worth it, NOBODY said yes.
The box set (Focal SB30 A1) would likely be my choice if I ever go through with it though, what's your take on this?
should I let my installer create a custom box instead, It would be a little cheaper.