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  1. Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    553
    #11
    Quote Originally Posted by mongobread View Post
    Yes sir I will be replacing hoses. You've kinda answered me indirectly that I can use 1.1 cap if I've established no weak points in the cooling system.

    These metal shavings are like powdery na. pag na salok mo sa tubig at tried to rub it against fingers na-didissolve. Still these are metal shavings right? Or aluminum corrosion lang? Either way, since hindi ko alam history ng water pump. I'm going to change it.
    At 1 ATM (1 bar) water's boiling point is 100C.

    At 1.1 bar its at 102C, at 1.2 bar is 106C.

    If your engine is overheating, that radiator cap really does little but pressurize your system making it more prone to leaks at the joints.

    The reason why you want to defer boiling is because a phase change from liquid to gas makes water 40,000 time less conductive and it pressurizes the whole loop.

    Then your cylinder heads glowing red hot and start warping.

    If you really want to raise your boiling point without pressurizing, increase your coolant-water ratio. However, it doesn't mean just because you're not boling the water component from your coolant, that your engine isn't running hot.

    Or go with a waterless coolant, 196C boiling point, and since there is no vaporization there is no pressure build up. You can practially do away with a pressure cap.
    Last edited by EVO-V; September 26th, 2014 at 12:48 PM.

Yet Another Radiator Cap Pressure