Yet Another Radiator Cap Pressure

[jick.cejoco]

Your cooling system should be sufficient in controlling the heat levels if the other systems are working right. Other possible causes of overheat include too lean of air/fuel mixture, intake vacuum leak, too advanced ignition timing, improperly bled cooling system, pump cavitation due to loss of pressure in the cooling system, too high octane fuel and rust/scale build up in the water jackets


Posted through phlpost.gov.ph

[niky]

Using a higher pressure radiator cap does indeed raise the boiling point of the water... which helps keep the coolant from boiling over... which helps prevent coolant loss in hot traffic.

Running pure water, will decrease the temp at which the coolant will boil, but not to the point where you should have problems.

Running with the radiator fan in "rekta" mode and without a thermostat, you're wasting a lot of gas... the car will be taking a whole lot longer to get to operating temperatures... which is bad for economy.

-

The metal shavings suggests that you might have a water pump problem, which is causing the high temperatures. Should also replace the hoses. Old hoses can expand, which decreases the pressure of the cooling system... which can lead to premature boiling of the coolant.

Given you've got shavings in t

[mongobread]

Using a higher pressure radiator cap does indeed raise the boiling point of the water... which helps keep the coolant from boiling over... which helps prevent coolant loss in hot traffic.

Running pure water, will decrease the temp at which the coolant will boil, but not to the point where you should have problems.

Running with the radiator fan in "rekta" mode and without a thermostat, you're wasting a lot of gas... the car will be taking a whole lot longer to get to operating temperatures... which is bad for economy.

-

The metal shavings suggests that you might have a water pump problem, which is causing the high temperatures. Should also replace the hoses. Old hoses can expand, which decreases the pressure of the cooling system... which can lead to premature boiling of the coolant.

Given you've got shavings in t

Sir bitin ata yung message mo.

Again sir, I've done my homework kaya nga po sabi ko unti unti ko restore yung cooling system. I already know what you have said and thanks for re-confirming.

My only question is that based sa mga nabasang details ng cooling system ko, should I be using 0.9 cap or 1.1 cap? I just want to confirm if I can use 1.1 kahit overhauled at matanda/weak na yun radiator at lumolubo yung radiator hoses ko.

But I think you've kinda answered my question when you mentioned hoses expand that leads to premature boiling. I think 1.1 cap gives more pressure sa system na pwedeng ikaputok ng hoses as I've read na use high pressure cap if there's no weak points in the system. Tama po ba?

Currently I'm back to 0.9 cap federal mogul brand..

My question is purely educational purpose po. For the record I'm self-learning car mechanics, DIY guy as a hobby and used 4g15 carb engine to learn. I'm slowly returning everything sa stock factors po.

[niky]

Yeah... having internet issues.

I was going to say... check your water pump... metal shavings probably mean your water pump is on its way out.

The solution to your cap dilemma should be: replace the hoses. They're the most probably failure point in your system.

[mongobread]

Yeah... having internet issues.

I was going to say... check your water pump... metal shavings probably mean your water pump is on its way out.

The solution to your cap dilemma should be: replace the hoses. They're the most probably failure point in your system.

Yes sir I will be replacing hoses. You've kinda answered me indirectly that I can use 1.1 cap if I've established no weak points in the cooling system.

These metal shavings are like powdery na. pag na salok mo sa tubig at tried to rub it against fingers na-didissolve. Still these are metal shavings right? Or aluminum corrosion lang? Either way, since hindi ko alam history ng water pump. I'm going to change it.

[EVO-V]

Yes sir I will be replacing hoses. You've kinda answered me indirectly that I can use 1.1 cap if I've established no weak points in the cooling system.

These metal shavings are like powdery na. pag na salok mo sa tubig at tried to rub it against fingers na-didissolve. Still these are metal shavings right? Or aluminum corrosion lang? Either way, since hindi ko alam history ng water pump. I'm going to change it.

At 1 ATM (1 bar) water's boiling point is 100C.

At 1.1 bar its at 102C, at 1.2 bar is 106C.

If your engine is overheating, that radiator cap really does little but pressurize your system making it more prone to leaks at the joints.

The reason why you want to defer boiling is because a phase change from liquid to gas makes water 40,000 time less conductive and it pressurizes the whole loop.

Then your cylinder heads glowing red hot and start warping.

If you really want to raise your boiling point without pressurizing, increase your coolant-water ratio. However, it doesn't mean just because you're not boling the water component from your coolant, that your engine isn't running hot.

Or go with a waterless coolant, 196C boiling point, and since there is no vaporization there is no pressure build up. You can practially do away with a pressure cap.

[dr. d]

Or go with a waterless coolant, 196C boiling point, and since there is no vaporization there is no pressure build up. You can practially do away with a pressure cap.[/QUOTE]

how much?
is it available to us mortals?
and is it not dangerous to the standard engine? temperatures can go beyond that of the usual water-based cooling system..?