Wheel Alignment

[ninjababez]

Sayang eh may itatagal pa. Gilid Lang medyo napudpod dahil nag negative

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swap mo muna sa kabilang side bro
tapos after couple of thousand km, inside out naman
pero ako sa ganyan, if ok pa rear tires; replace both fronts tires nalang kung malaki na difference nun upod na part

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[NiCe2KnowU]

swap mo muna sa kabilang side bro
tapos after couple of thousand km, inside out naman
pero ako sa ganyan, if ok pa rear tires; replace both fronts tires nalang kung malaki na difference nun upod na part

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Baka palitan ko nalang 2 gulong na napudpod, Yung SA rear pwde pa Naman, pang city driving ko lang Naman tong extra car.
Palitan ko nalang bago ako magpacamber alignment.


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[NiCe2KnowU]

Yung pinuntahan ko pinapalagay ako NG camber kit para mapantay, naka lowered kasi extra car ko.
Makukuha Naman sa wheel alignment ng TOE para di mabilis mapudpod gilid NG gulong

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[StockEngine]

nakapunta nako shell c5 near mitsubishi ..
gamit nila the hunter pa100 PA 130
yun na ba yung ok na klase?

550 alignment nila
camber 1.6k (iirc)
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ok na yan, ang important tamang car selection sa program and right tire pressure. if any of the two are not accurate baka kelangan bumalik. sounds like you got ok results?

[ninjababez]

ok na yan, ang important tamang car selection sa program and right tire pressure. if any of the two are not accurate baka kelangan bumalik. sounds like you got ok results?

inaantay ko muna go signal mo bro, nun pumunta ako naka lunchbreak din sila eh

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[enzo6k]

Yung pinuntahan ko pinapalagay ako NG camber kit para mapantay, naka lowered kasi extra car ko.
Makukuha Naman sa wheel alignment ng TOE para di mabilis mapudpod gilid NG gulong

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ok lang naka negative camber basta naka zero toe, ang malakas makaupod pag naka toe-in or toe-out dahil hindi naka-straight sa moving direction ang tires kaya may slight scrubbing

[NiCe2KnowU]

ok lang naka negative camber basta naka zero toe, ang malakas makaupod pag naka toe-in or toe-out dahil hindi naka-straight sa moving direction ang tires kaya may slight scrubbing

Yes sur... Nag pa align nako last Saturday NG toe & caster / rear & front [emoji846]

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[troytin20]

Try fixstop along congressional ave qc

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[TireWhisperer23]

Interesting anecdote:

If I ask an aligner to make my car go straight ahead, it pulls left when I go back out on the road.

If I ask the aligner to make the car pull right, it rolls straight when I hit the road!

[baludoy]

nagapalit ako ng pang-ilalim kahapon so takbo ako magpa- alignment service maybe tomorrow.

ang problema may slow leak ata ang isang gulong ko so kailangan patingin ko muna

[oj88]

Interesting anecdote:

If I ask an aligner to make my car go straight ahead, it pulls left when I go back out on the road.

If I ask the aligner to make the car pull right, it rolls straight when I hit the road!

Wheel geometry is more complex than they appear. A lot of factors... steering, suspension, link/bushing conditions, tire pressure, etc. comes into play. But to your issue, I'm guessing driver weight and even how much fuel you have in the tank (and where it is located) also affects the outcome.

Try sitting in the driver seat while the aligner zero it down to drive straight.

[dr. d]

Wheel geometry is more complex than they appear. A lot of factors... steering, suspension, link/bushing conditions, tire pressure, etc. comes into play. But to your issue, I'm guessing driver weight and even how much fuel you have in the tank (and where it is located) also affects the outcome.

Try sitting in the driver seat while the aligner zero it down to drive straight.

i wonder,
are the usual published suspension adjustment specifications supposed to be adjusted with the vehicle devoid of driver and passenger/load?

[oj88]

i wonder,
are the usual published suspension adjustment specifications supposed to be adjusted with the vehicle devoid of driver and passenger/load?

I think the weight ratio between the vehicle and the driver will have something to do with it. Smaller/lighter vehicles with softer suspension paired with a heavyset driver will definitely have a more significant effect on the alignment. In this scenario, the weight of the driver should be factored in.... put him in the driver's seat while the alignment is dialed in.

Larger vehicles due to their mass, makes the driver's weight somewhat less significant and therefore, potentially negligible.

[LOLZ]

i wonder,
are the usual published suspension adjustment specifications supposed to be adjusted with the vehicle devoid of driver and passenger/load?

For the Toyota products its likely to be the case for most of their products per the service manual/GSIC(atleast for the prev gen hilux & LC) that the alignment be done unladen.

[jick.cejoco]

i wonder,
are the usual published suspension adjustment specifications supposed to be adjusted with the vehicle devoid of driver and passenger/load?

For over 40 years of experience as a Tech and thirty years as an instructor, I have never seen wheel alignment specs with the driver on board. The specs may vary depending on which side of the road it is to be driven. Adjustments are made using curb weight(with a tankful of fuel). If the fuel tank is less than full, you compensate by adding a corresponding weight where the fuel tank is located(around 6 pounds of gasoline per gallon.

[travajante]

For over 40 years of experience as a Tech and thirty years as an instructor, I have never seen wheel alignment specs with the driver on board. The specs may vary depending on which side of the road it is to be driven. Adjustments are made using curb weight(with a tankful of fuel). If the fuel tank is less than full, you compensate by adding a corresponding weight where the fuel tank is located(around 6 pounds of gasoline per gallon.

From what I have seen, some premium/performance makes, like BMW, suggest weights(sand bags) on driver, passenger, trunk aside from having the fuel tank full. Hunter & Hofmann do follow them. This is to simulate their independent suspension's angles not just when the vehicle is loaded but also when it's driven at high speeds.

[ChrisK_2025]

If a certain make/model of vehicle specifies 0 degrees front toe, with some sort of tolerance, I will always request positive 0.03-05° total toe-in. I find this makes the vehicle more stable straight ahead, without the need for tiring minor corrections every few seconds.

For the back, up to 0.10° total toe-in will keep you on the straight and narrow.

But always request that the adjustments be made as equal side-to-side as possible.

If you get a printout with the desired total toe, but with positive toe(in) on one side and negative toe(out) on the other, do ask for a redo upon being handed the alignment printout. Front toe in on one side and out on the other will result in a crooked steering wheel even when you are driving straight-ahead.

Also, unless the shop does not have a steering wheel lock (keeps the wheel straight during front adjustments), always ask for it to be utilized during your alignment.

Finally, on the day before or week before your alignment, pick up a quality tire pressure gauge. Before you go to your alignment, check your cold/ pre-driven tire pressures against the info in your owners manual, or the sticker somewhere on your vehicle frame.

On U.S. models, it is almost always affixed to the drivers B-pillar. On cars in the Philippines, it may be affixed anywhere, or not at all.

Correct tire pressure will assist in a more effective alignment, and better handling and ride afterwards.

[ChrisK_2025]

For over 40 years of experience as a Tech and
thirty years as an instructor, I have never seen
wheel alignment specs with the driver on board. The
specs may vary depending on which side of the road
it is to be driven. Adjustments are made using curb
weight(with a tankful of fuel). If the fuel tank is less
than full, you compensate by adding a corresponding
weight where the fuel tank is located(around 6 pounds
of gasoline per gallon.

Full tank?

All my resources suggest half a tank, as an average.

I'd be willing to try the drivers seat alignment approach, if I could sit still enough lol!

I'm 195lbs fully clothed, in a 2010 Honda Accrord, EX with moonroof and power drivers seat.

If a car pulls left, even post-alignment, I will ask the aligner to toe the right-rear wheel in just a hair more than the left-rear. This has the effect of pushing the car to the right, cancelling out any designed-in left pull.

[jick.cejoco]

While most responses are focused on toe, none of them mentioned caster. For countries that drive on the right side, caster is preferred to be slightly more positive on the left and vice versa. Camber settings are also mostly set at different angles to counter the slight curvature of the road crown. Align.ent angles have a specs tolerance for this reason assuming both tires on each axle have the same wear, pressure, tread pattern, rolling resistance and age. Dragging brakes also affect the straight line driving as well as wheel bearing rolling resistance.

[ChrisK_2025]

While most responses are focused on toe, none of them mentioned caster. For countries that drive on the right side, caster is preferred to be slightly more positive on the left and vice versa. Camber settings are also mostly set at different angles to counter the slight curvature of the road crown. Align.ent angles have a specs tolerance for this reason assuming both tires on each axle have the same wear, pressure, tread pattern, rolling resistance and age. Dragging brakes also affect the straight line driving as well as wheel bearing rolling resistance.

I request that all (adjustable) front specs be as close to equal as is possible.

Having slightly less caster(and/or camber) angle on the left side would have me in oncoming traffic in no time.

I suspect that most modern cars have a modest amount of left pull designed in, to the body or frame, as they all feel like they drift left to me. I know this is to compensate for road crown, but for me it's just annoying, and possibly, dangerous.