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  1. Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Posts
    315
    #441
    Malaki kaya need na budget for a ceramic coating business?

    Sent from my VOG-L29 using Tsikot Forums mobile app

  2. Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    25,927
    #442
    Quote Originally Posted by johnbreeeezy View Post
    Malaki kaya need na budget for a ceramic coating business?

    Sent from my VOG-L29 using Tsikot Forums mobile app
    2+ suppliers are on fb. I think youll need a qc room for some certifications from gtechniq or gyeon. Si donj and tristan ang mga pioneers.

  3. Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Posts
    315
    #443
    Quote Originally Posted by StockEngine View Post
    2+ suppliers are on fb. I think youll need a qc room for some certifications from gtechniq or gyeon. Si donj and tristan ang mga pioneers.
    Thank you sir! Yan kasi plan ko dito sa province wala matino ganyan e

    Sent from my VOG-L29 using Tsikot Forums mobile app

  4. Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Posts
    34
    #444
    Ito nakita ko boss. Good deal na kaya unh cquartz uk?

    Cquartz Lite P8000
    Cquartz UK P11000
    Cquartz Pro P15000
    Cquartz Finest P55000 (Full interior/exterior/glass/rims coating)

    screenshot_20200903-060053_facebook.jpgscreenshot_20200903-055539_messenger.jpg

    Sent from my SM-G950F using Tsikot Forums mobile app

  5. Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    937
    #445
    May promo si Revolt

    20k for a montero for their premium coating "+1 free coating".

    Any one tried them?

  6. Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    937
    #446
    Any feedback on Gyeon Coatings?

    Speed Seven (Timog Ave) is offering 10K off from 35k.

    Total of 25k even for SUV, coatings include Wheels, Trim and Windshield

  7. Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    25,927
    #447
    Quote Originally Posted by ronki View Post
    Any feedback on Gyeon Coatings?

    Speed Seven (Timog Ave) is offering 10K off from 35k.

    Total of 25k even for SUV, coatings include Wheels, Trim and Windshield
    they have the best gloss in my opinion.

  8. Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Posts
    1,582
    #448
    Has anyone availed atom6 2.0 from aegis detailing is it also ceramic coating? They say that you dont have to wax your car again.

    Sent from my SM-N910C using Tapatalk

  9. Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    2,029
    #449
    Quote Originally Posted by Deestone View Post
    They say that you dont have to wax your car again.
    it is usual for the detailing shop to say that with "Ceramic Coating," you'll never wax your car again.

    HOWEVER, a good ceramic coat will normally last you 5 years. When I had my car coated, the shop gave me 3 options (2/5/8 years) - I chose the 5 which also has a small foot note mentioning 2-5 years depending on weather

    Think about this, makintab na yung car. Using wax will protect the ceramic coat until the next rain/car wash -> as wax easily washes out

    so depending on how you take care of your car. My car has a ceramic coat and I normally have it waxed 1-2 times a month through my car wash boy.

  10. Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    1,544
    #450
    Quote Originally Posted by Deestone View Post
    Has anyone availed atom6 2.0 from aegis detailing is it also ceramic coating? They say that you dont have to wax your car again.

    Sent from my SM-N910C using Tapatalk
    From a car detailing forum:
    Dec. 07, 2019

    Quote: Originally Posted by Andy from Sandy
    Are ceramic coatings much harder than clear coat so won't get swirled up?


    Coatings can do a lot of nice things, definitely not a silver bullet of protection by any means but IMO, short of PPF, the best form of current protection....for me.

    A coating will make maintenance easier, give you some solid protection against environmental contamination...stuff like that. Will also help keep the car cleaner with less attention. You'll still need to wash/maintain but likely far less frequently to maintain 'acceptable cleanliness'...depending on what exactly that means to you.

    Won't protect from chipping, scratching, abrasions and all but the lightest swirling but short of PPF, nothing really will. That said...

    First thing you should do is decide what YOU want out of a coating; things to consider:

    1. Durability, longevity

    2. What kind of appearance? i.e. hard, candy-like gloss or deeper, warmer wax-like glow

    3. Ease of application important?

    4. Climate; what might work nice in Arizona (dry) might not be so nice in New Jersey (rain/snow)

    5. Do you like beading or sheeting?

    6. Are self-cleaning characteristics important to you or are you gonna wash your car weekly regardless?

    7. How much do you wanna spend?

    8. Daily driver or hobby car?

    While quartz/glass/ceramic coatings are all in the same general category with respect to LSPís, there are subtle differences in them and you may as well go with one that is strong in your primary areas of concern.

    And FWIW, claims of hardness, scratch resistance and such are, IMO, way over-marketed with coatings. While they may provide some minor resistance to light marring, it's a harsh world out there and many things (jewelry banging paint around door handles, boxes hitting trunk areas while loading, leaning on hood of vehicle with grimy sweatshirts, etc) *will* leave a mark. Problem with coatings is the only way to remedy those marks/marring is to re-polish (removing coating) and re-coating that area, generally an entire panel as many coatings don't lend themselves well to spot fixes. If you're horribly OCD-ish about having a totally defect free car for 2 years, a coating may not be the best way to go...

    Longevity is likewise impossible to truly predict due to variations in climate, vehicle usage and maintenance habits. Claims listed on packages/advertisements are generally somewhat, uh...optimistic. Not always, but usually...

    I live in NE Ohio so all ny findings/thoughts are based on that climate. The characteristics of a coating that matter most to me are:

    1. Great Self Cleaning Abilities: Our cars see rain and often get rained on in the morning and then sit outside in the sun in the afternoon; donít like waterspots. I like clean cars but donít like cleaning cars.

    2. Durability and resistance to environmental contamination like water spots and bird bombs. Donít wanna have to worry about running home and immediately dealing with removing things that would otherwise etch bare paint. Like hard water spots did to our Corvette during the wax and sealant years. Also has to last cuz I donít wanna be hauling out compounds and polishes every Spring, given reasonable maintenance.

    3. Appearance: Well, stuff has to look good. Has to accentuate body lines, curves and hard edges. It needs to make me stop and admire it when walking towards it, walking away from it or catching a glance in the garage when I take out the garbage.

    Have tried a few different coatings, watched 'em over the course of 20k-40k miles in NE Ohio, variety of vehicle usage and maintenance patterns.

    To be honest, of all the coatings I've tried, there were really no bad products but some did particular things a little better/different than others so I went with the one (s) that excelled in areas I found important.

    Read, research...its all a very subjective topic and there really is no ********** answer...find something that works for you and enjoy it, wax, sealant, coating or PPF.

    Coatings offer me the best form of protection based upon the way I like my cars to look, how I use the cars and how I prefer to maintain them.

    If a had a true hobby car, a good weather only, drive a few miles on Sunday vehicle, I'd just wax it and call it a day. For cars that I drive regularly that I want the best protection with minimal maintenance effort, that'd be coatings.

    As with anything, YMMV.

    A lot of the vehicles I try coatings on are fleet vehicles at work. Prep, polish and coat them when new, let 'em ride for a year or 2 (or 3 in some cases) w very minimal maintenance and the good ones will still stay '2ft away shiny and clean' 95% of the time. These vehicles see 15k miles a year, get a run through a touchless tunnel wash 3 or 4 times a year and still stay remarkably good looking.


    Loach
    Ceramic coatings really do go the distance on my test cars without topical maintenance products in a daily driven, ungaraged, high humid, rainy, and high temperature environment. However, they are not impenetrable, they can still become clogged with things like gunk from tree fallout, prolonged road grime exposure, and most specifically in my case is hard water accumulation. They blow waxes and sealants out of the water in terms of visible durability, and the lasting high hydrophobic surface makes for enjoyable maintenance over the months. In my environment, waxes and sealants get hammered and are knocked down quickly with constant dew in the morning, extreme heat during the day, daily rainstorms and back to high heat basically everyday for months during the wet season. If I'm not washing waxes and sealants every other week, then I won't be able to touch the maintainable performance that a coating offers.

    With regards to topping the coating, if I take CQuartz (non-UK) that has accumulated some hard water contamination at 6 months old that has begun to affect its hydrophobic performance, and top this up with Bead Maker, I have seen that this improves the hydrophobicity beyond what CQuartz achieved by itself when fresh. This hydrophobic surface is also well beyond what Bead Maker achieves by itself. The durability of this hydrophobic surface is also well beyond the durability that Bead Maker achieves by itself. This is true product syn-ergy (why is this word blocked on the forum?) when a top coat enjoys being more attached to a coated surface rather than bare clearcoat, improving the performance of the base coating at the same time for a significant amount of time. I film this in my review video that I did with Bead Maker here:

    P&S Bead Maker - WaxMode Review - YouTube

    Now, this may not be the case with all coatings and toppers, I've seen results where the same coatings were less enthusiastic about being topped with the same topper that worked really well on my paint. I think a lot of this has to do with the base paint layer, I believe the type and strength of the base paint system underneath can have an impact on what we put on top, this is the reason why clean decon'd yet unpolished clearcoat can give us a severe reduction in durability with many products unless we polish and exfoliate the paint to improve product attachment. The healthiness and perhaps even the brand of paint/clear used during spraying can also explain the differences in performance that we all see when reviewing the same products.

    Usually what I see when I top coatings that have begun to physically break down when surrounded by a healthy coating layer, is this spot doesn't accept the topper as well and it will continue to break down faster compared to the surrounding healthy areas. Eventually this spot expands overtime and it's clear the coating needs to be reapplied.

    Not everyone needs a coating, they aren't the end all be all to paint protection and if you're getting great results out of your current arsenal and maintaining it well then you're not going to get much utility out of a coating. What's certain to me, is those looking for the most advanced and durable form of paint protection, coatings are the answer and they are leagues above most waxes and sealants that I test when placed under the same exact conditions and untopped for long durations.

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Ceramic coating