Basically, swap out the carb lang. All the other components remains intact.
What is important is to find a compatible carb for the specific engine you have. In my case, it's a 188F 13HP petrol engine. It's a Chinese clone of the Honda GX390 so parts are interchangeable. This engine is commonly fitted on many 5-7kW generators.
Wala na yung listing nung pinagkunan ko. Here's a close match: https://shopee.ph/LPG-NG-Carburetor-...b-7c747d2ee7d9
The regulator I used is this Tokina snap-on type for Gasul tanks. https://shopee.ph/%E2%9D%A7%E2%98%8B...8-81d9eb77e269
DO NOT buy regulators that has a safety "anti-explode" feature. You'll be subjecting yourself to a world of frustration if you do. Ask me why I know that. ;)
Swapping out the carb is very easy. Disassemble the air filter box down to the carb nuts. Remove the fuel hose from the inlet on the carb (make sure that the petcock is off) and slide out the carb. As you pull out the carb, take care not to damage the gaskets and speed governor linkages. Unhook the latter and set it aside.
Installing the new carb is just the reverse. The rest is pretty much self-explanatory.
Starting on petrol:
1. Turn on the petcock and wait 5 seconds
2. Turn on the choke
3. Start the engine
4. Once the engine is running, turn off the choke
5. To shutdown the engine, turn off the petcock and let the engine starve itself of fuel. This make sure that little to no gas remains in the fuel bowl
Starting on LPG:
1. Turn off the petcock
2. Drain the gasoline from the fuel bowl (skip if you did step 5 above)
3. Make sure that the orange knob is set to LPG/propane
4. Turn on the LPG supply at the tank side
5. Turn off the choke (LPG doesn't need choke to start)
6. Press the purge button on the on-demand regulator for 2-3 seconds (that cylindrical thing under the new carb).
7. Start the engine
8. To shutdown the engine, turn off the LPG supply at the tank
If the engine is running rough:
1. When on gasoline: Make sure that the choke is off and that the governor linkages were installed correctly
2. When running on LPG: Adjust the LPG fuel mixture by slowly turning the screw inside the orange knob left or right, whichever makes the engine run smooth. Also check the governor linkages.
Dami videos on Youtube. Here's a start
Last edited by oj88; October 29th, 2021 at 03:50 PM.
Reviving this thread ...
For backup generator around 10-15 KvA ... deciding between an inverter gasoline silent type generator or a diesel silent type generator ... looking at Promate brand ... their inverter gasoline type are portable ... diesel generators are large and fixed ... however, they don't recommend using their inverter gasoline generators for 24 hours successively ... they have a 5500 model (88,000) that you can daisy chain to produce 11000 watts ... so in a pinch you could run them 12 hours each ... they have an 8000 watts for 150T ...
Have seen Marpro brand online ... but the pricing seems too low ... they might just be subpar quality and won't last long ...
Another thing ... is it possible to add generator to a grid-tie solar setup? ...
Hindi pwede genset sa solar. May max capacity ang genset, if may spike sa electric use, hindi kakayanin. Not sure if may masira sa solar equipment.
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Here are a few considerations if you need a backup generator to run for days on end.
For the sake of simplicity, there are two fundamental types of generators: Inverter and non-inverter.
Inverter generators are relatively new and offers several advantages compared to non-inverter generators. But first, you need to understand the differences:
1. Non-inverter generator - The engine turns an AC generator. The output powers the load directly. As such, the engine needs to run at a constant 3,600 RPM to maintain the 60Hz frequency. The output voltage is often regulated using an AVR to maintain the required output voltage (220-240V).
Pros: Cheaper upfront cost and maintenance. Can often be field-repaired due to their simplicity. Perfect for short-duration backup use
Cons: Running at a constant 3,600 RPM makes it noisy (open frame ones), has bad fuel economy, and depending on the quality of the generator windings, it also often produces a more dirty AC output (jagged sine waves).
2. Inverter generator - The engine turns a 3-phase AC generator. The output is converted into high-voltage DC then inverted back to AC, which then powers the load. The engine speed varies depending on the load demand.... ie. it runs at about 2,800 RPM when there's little to no load but them ramps up to 3,800-4,300 RPM when on full-load.
Pros: More fuel-efficient. Produces cleaner AC waveform output (pure sine wave), parallel capability (you can combine the power of two similar inverter generators), and they often run quieter when not at full-load (lower RPM and they're often in an enclosure)
Cons: Higher upfront cost and can be expensive to repair. Parts like the inverter module can also be prohibitively expensive to replace
Non-inverter generators are the most common type. These can be broken down into different categories... portable backup, continuous duty, prime duty, etc.
Portable or small non-inverter backup generators are meant to be used sporadically during temporary outages. They are made to a cost and have a relatively short lifespan, owing to the fact that they're mostly air-cooled uses an oil-splash lubrication system. You can force them run them continuously (stopping only for refueling and maintenance), but since their designed lifespan isn't that long, you won't get much use of them after a while. Note that these run at a nominal 3600 RPM all the time to maintain the 60Hz AC power output. Typical lifespan is just in the hundreds of hours.
Then there's the commercial-grade generators that can run pretty much continuously for days. These will often have water-cooling and a pressurized oil system for better reliability. Some have twice as many poles (4-poles) in the generator that allows the engine to run at half speed as the previous one, or 1800 RPM. Lifespan is in the thousands, even tens of thousands of hours. You see these being used in hospitals, malls, commercial buildings, etc.
On runtime, I wouldn't recommend that you keep it on for 24 hours, unless you really have to. Again, their lifespan is finite. You're technically running down the hours of their life by using them. In my use case, we typically need the generator running at 12-16 hours a day for every 24 hours the power is out. It's mostly there to run the A/C and other creature comforts. But this has not happened, so far. My 3 year old non-inverter generator only has about 14 or 15 hours of total engine hours. At this rate, and if I keep the maintenance regimen up, I can probably make it last decades.
Pwede.... using a transfer switch. This will allow you to charge the battery banks during the times when there's no utility power and solar harvesting is not enough, which is often the case in inclement weather. Most charge controllers can be set to take only what the generator can supply to prevent overloading.
During a power outage, you'd typically want to power only the essentials. Of course, if you have a bigger generator, you can power more. However, the bigger the generator, the higher the TCO. So it's important to strike a good balance... especially for folks like me who don't have a bottom-less pit of money.
My backup generator is only 4.5kW (5kW surge). When it's running the house, I turn off breakers to circuits like shower heaters and the oven so that I don't go over-budget on power. Even then, the generator can run all the lights, my servers, PCs, laptops, and two inverter A/Cs (1.5 and 2.5HP, respectively).
I have a couple of ways to monitor power:
On the generator inlet panel...
and through the app.
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I am not familiar dyan sa device mo, but if naka ATS ang genset mo, mag shutdown din buong power mo if nagkataon mataas masyado ang load mo vs available supply (genset + solar) at the moment of power outage.
Kaya most, if not all, solar installers, hindi na magagamit ang solar if umaandar ang genset.
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So ... if solar is grid-tied ... to have generator ... transfer switch ... either generator only or solar on-grid ...
Grid-tied solar setup will not have power when there is blackout ... Is there a way to have solar setup that can switch from on-grid to off-grid? ...
In a hybrid solar setup ... there is solar source, Maralco source and battery ... can it accept generator power source? ... if so, how does it work? ... same with first scenario above? ...
In a grid-tie system, you need a transfer switch to select between inverter output and generator output. That way, the generator and grid-tie systems will not see each other. The transfer switch let's you pick where you will get your power; On-grid Solar or Generator.
For hybrid systems, you should get a system that supports integration with a backup generator. In this scenario, the generator can be used to charge the batteries in case of low solar harvesting or when utility power is unavailable. This is where my expertise ends.