2014 Mazda 3

[JohnM]

You might need to put a filter on those tweeters. If what I read is correct the stock tweeter cables carry a full range signal.

[yapoy86]

You might need to put a filter on those tweeters. If what I read is correct the stock tweeter cables carry a full range signal.

Yup.. i used the same capacitor from the original tweeters.

The new tweeters are the same size of the original.. i used the base to attach and solder the tweeter to the terminals with the capacitor.. really looks OEM hehe

[jojopad]

This is a nice clean simple build

https://youtu.be/d40hcuS5zXw

[RedlineJunkie]

This is a nice clean simple build

https://youtu.be/d40hcuS5zXw

Nice mods.
Fender rolled because of +35 wheel offset. I've read here that the ideal offset for 18x8.5 is +45. I'm wondering if +44, which is more common, is okay. Car is on stock damper and spring. Is there a big difference? Also, for 18x8, ideal is +40. Will a +38 still be okay?
I hope someone could explain aftermarket wheel offset for Mazda 3. Thank you.

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[yapoy86]

finally was able to hook up and setup my scangauge II in the mazda 2.0 engine.. sharing here my observations..

Charging Voltage - mine is equipped with e-loop capacitor. On cold start, voltage stays around 12.7v and will only read 13 to 13.5v after a few minutes or when the car moves or when the blue temp light disappears. It seems that the alternator is "disengaged" during this period and I can only assume this is to ease the load on the engine for fuel efficiency. Also, the alternator voltage hovers around 13 to 13.5v only unlike with other cars that after starting or when you rev the engine, voltage will increase to 14V especially after a cold start. Again, I assume this programming is for "fuel efficiency", not so sure though.. however, it is observed that when you use engine brake or release the accelerator, the voltage will increase to around 14 to 14.5v and in the fuel efficiency monitor of the car, you will see the capacitor will be in charging mode, it will go back to 13.5V once you hit speed of 20kph below or until you stop. When the capacitor is charging, the alternator loading the engine is noticeable and engine braking is more pronounced.

with these observations, the battery will really suffer from insufficient charge if you do short drives since i-stop will be available as soon as you drive. 14V charge voltage will only be triggered when you engine brake or coast to a stop to charge the capacitor.

Operating temp - coolant temp observed at the highest 96degC, engine oil temp hovers around 88degC and transmission temp at 85degC. Normal operating temp can be reached after 30mins of driving. However, spirited driving and hard acceleration will increase engine oil temp and transmission temp at 95degC. The transmission takes a while to reach the 85degC and in a casual morning drive usually hovers at 75degC.

at 96degC coolant temp and engine oil temp, i-stop is disabled to allow the engine to cool down until it reaches the normal operating temp of below 90degC

on another issue - transmission support.. recently hearing annoying creaking sound when slowing down and accelerating. Removed the engine support #4 (transmission side) for inspection. Looks good, no cracks or anything out of the ordinary. Installed it back, annoying sound still persists. Tightened everything, I even replaced stab links and shock absorber mounts but still the annoying sound persists. But I have a gut feel that the sound is coming from that #4 engine support, hence i bought a replacement. Installed the replacement support and voila, the annoying sound is GONE!!

[Miles_on]

on another issue - transmission support.. recently hearing annoying creaking sound when slowing down and accelerating. Removed the engine support #4 (transmission side) for inspection. Looks good, no cracks or anything out of the ordinary. Installed it back, annoying sound still persists. Tightened everything, I even replaced stab links and shock absorber mounts but still the annoying sound persists. But I have a gut feel that the sound is coming from that #4 engine support, hence i bought a replacement. Installed the replacement support and voila, the annoying sound is GONE!!

So the problem nga is the support.

I wonder what caused it to act like that, when even a thorough visual inspection showed nothing to be wrong with it (pero failing na pala).

---> I just hope this forum stays talaga. There's a wealth of useful car info here from the collective wisdom of the contributions of its members.

[yapoy86]

yup.. i don't know whats wrong with the #4 support.. its not cracked nor separated from its housing.. i only bought a replacement support.. since the OEM mazda is out of stock.. so far so good..


btw, the annoying creaking sound is present also when passing thru road humps.. that's why I thought the problem was the stab links..

replacing the #4 support solved it.. now its solid suspension

[rpv5]

Hi everyone, joining this forum since I just got myself a 2016 2.0 hatch


Looking for some tips/recommendations on initial tunes and performance bolt ons (intakes, exhaust, brakes, suspension)

[travajante]

Hi everyone, joining this forum since I just got myself a 2016 2.0 hatch


Looking for some tips/recommendations on initial tunes and performance bolt ons (intakes, exhaust, brakes, suspension)

Welcome to the forums, sir. You can skip the hardware, unless it's bling you want. Grab a tune from OVT, no other.[emoji4]

Sent from my SM-S901E using Tsikot Forums mobile app

[rpv5]

Welcome to the forums, sir. You can skip the hardware, unless it's bling you want. Grab a tune from OVT, no other.[emoji4]

Sent from my SM-S901E using Tsikot Forums mobile app

Thanks for the welcome Sir Travs, actually got it a huge discount since I bought it from my dad lol (he's looking to buy a hybrid car/suv daw). Which is why it still has the plate relocator I bought from you a few years back. And noted on the OVT recommendation