Isuzu Hi-Lander owner's (Please participate for us to form a group)

[nujadnara]

hi mga boss, tanong ko lang kung sino nakachange na ng differential at transmission oil sa hilander nila? kelangan ba to palitan? and how often po ba? pwede ba tong e- DIY?

First time kong mag post dito, nagpalit ako ng tranny oil at ng gear oil ng 130th ang kilometrahe ng hi lander ko, DIY.. mukhang ok pa naman, pero ayon sa manual dapat mga 20th ang palit ..gamit ko ordinary engine oil para sa transmission.. at sa diff.ay yung gear oil 5..

[kinergy]

Mga sir tanong ko lang kung saan may available na resistor block para sa rear blower for isuzu hilander (compatible kaya yung sa crosswind?) and how much? salamat!

[capers]

Mga sir tanong lang po, pwede po ba yung 235 na gulong sa hi-lander xtrm.

[aioshin]

Tanong mga boss.. san usually makabili ng liqui moly diesel purge, at magkano kaya? Thanks

[dgpfourth]

pa join po sa group! XTRM 2000 Cebu :drive1:

[drakes]

xtrm 2001 - maroon calamba city

[bong71]

help. Need to buy cluster gauge with rpm for my SL. Please pm me.

[patrickpandan]

Mga paps ask ko lang san po kaya makakabili ng second hand na injection pump di na talaga kaya pinapapalitan na yung injection pump ng mekaniko

[zen..]

Sir may egr blanking din ba yung hilander natin?

[aioshin]

Sir may egr blanking din ba yung hilander natin?

breather hose from crankcase blanking lang.. hehe. Wala kasing EGR and hilander.

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Sir may egr blanking din ba yung hilander natin?

breather hose from crankcase blanking lang.. hehe. Wala kasing EGR and hilander.

[zen..]

breather hose from crankcase blanking lang.. hehe. Wala kasing EGR and hilander.

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breather hose from crankcase blanking lang.. hehe. Wala kasing EGR and hilander.

Ano magiging advantage sir?

[aioshin]

Eto, sariling experience ko lang ha, meron akong post dito na nilagyan ko nang Oil catch can yung crankcase breather ng Hilander ko, then the tube going to the Intake defined pipe. Pero per observation, meron pa rin moist of oil from breather but very minimal compared kung wala kang oil catch can. Pero di pa rin ako nakontento, niredirect ko yung output ng breather hose sa bunganga ng tubing before Air Filter., so sa ngayon, malinis na masyado intake ko, walang traces of OIL Moisture from crankcase breather hose. Effect?. ewan kung sa akin lang, pero mas OK yung takbo kasi malinis masyado ang intake, wala ng moisture of OIL.

[ronball]

Meron na po ba ditong nakapagpalit ng alternator voltage regulator ng kanilang hilander? May issue kasi ung hilander namin, bumababa charge ng battery kapag sabay-sabay na nakabukas yung mga electrical ng oto like aircon, headlight, wiper etc, tapos kinabukasan di na sya mag-i-start kasi nasa 11.6-11.7V na lang ang load ng battery.

Ayoko magpalit ng alternator agad-agad kaya basa-basa muna at mahal ung alternator. Bumili ako ng multi meter at inalis ko yung fuse isa-isa to check for the "parasitic load draw" pero wala akong nakitang problem kasi nasa 10-12ma lang ang naging reading. Our ride is a 1999 Isuzu Hilander.

Sana may sumagot. Thanks in advance.

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Meron na po ba ditong nakapagpalit ng alternator voltage regulator ng kanilang hilander? May issue kasi ung hilander namin, bumababa charge ng battery kapag sabay-sabay na nakabukas yung mga electrical ng oto like aircon, headlight, wiper etc, tapos kinabukasan di na sya mag-i-start kasi nasa 11.6-11.7V na lang ang load ng battery.

Ayoko magpalit ng alternator agad-agad kaya basa-basa muna at mahal ung alternator. Bumili ako ng multi meter at inalis ko yung fuse isa-isa to check for the "parasitic load draw" pero wala akong nakitang problem kasi nasa 10-12ma lang ang naging reading. Our ride is a 1999 Isuzu Hilander.

Sana may sumagot. Thanks in advance.

[n_spinner06]

Meron na po ba ditong nakapagpalit ng alternator voltage regulator ng kanilang hilander? May issue kasi ung hilander namin, bumababa charge ng battery kapag sabay-sabay na nakabukas yung mga electrical ng oto like aircon, headlight, wiper etc, tapos kinabukasan di na sya mag-i-start kasi nasa 11.6-11.7V na lang ang load ng battery.

Ayoko magpalit ng alternator agad-agad kaya basa-basa muna at mahal ung alternator. Bumili ako ng multi meter at inalis ko yung fuse isa-isa to check for the "parasitic load draw" pero wala akong nakitang problem kasi nasa 10-12ma lang ang naging reading. Our ride is a 1999 Isuzu Hilander.

Sana may sumagot. Thanks in advance.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Meron na po ba ditong nakapagpalit ng alternator voltage regulator ng kanilang hilander? May issue kasi ung hilander namin, bumababa charge ng battery kapag sabay-sabay na nakabukas yung mga electrical ng oto like aircon, headlight, wiper etc, tapos kinabukasan di na sya mag-i-start kasi nasa 11.6-11.7V na lang ang load ng battery.

Ayoko magpalit ng alternator agad-agad kaya basa-basa muna at mahal ung alternator. Bumili ako ng multi meter at inalis ko yung fuse isa-isa to check for the "parasitic load draw" pero wala akong nakitang problem kasi nasa 10-12ma lang ang naging reading. Our ride is a 1999 Isuzu Hilander.

Sana may sumagot. Thanks in advance.

Yung sa amin nagloko after naondoy...tagal na. pinarewind. Batt change na din. Pero meron pa din. Workaround ko is may nabili ako na guage na sinasaksak sa lighter socket. Constant monitoring lang. La naman problema pag tumatakbo na more than 1k rpm napansin ko. Problema lang is kapag naka.idle lalo na pag gabi tas bukas headlight na medyo mabigat load. Temp solution ko taasan konti rpm to around 750-800rpm pag idle at pag nakikita kong bumabagsak voltage bawasan ko load like patayin headlight kung matagal pa sa traffic light. Pero temp lang to..d ko din sure kung ano prob. Either mahina talga alternator na stock, mababa masgado rpm, or yung voltage regulator na nabanggit mo. D ako familiar sa voltage regulator though...balitaan mo kami dito sir if ever makahanap ka permanent solution...

[ronball]

Yung sa amin nagloko after naondoy...tagal na. pinarewind. Batt change na din. Pero meron pa din. Workaround ko is may nabili ako na guage na sinasaksak sa lighter socket. Constant monitoring lang. La naman problema pag tumatakbo na more than 1k rpm napansin ko. Problema lang is kapag naka.idle lalo na pag gabi tas bukas headlight na medyo mabigat load. Temp solution ko taasan konti rpm to around 750-800rpm pag idle at pag nakikita kong bumabagsak voltage bawasan ko load like patayin headlight kung matagal pa sa traffic light. Pero temp lang to..d ko din sure kung ano prob. Either mahina talga alternator na stock, mababa masgado rpm, or yung voltage regulator na nabanggit mo. D ako familiar sa voltage regulator though...balitaan mo kami dito sir if ever makahanap ka permanent solution...

*n_spinner06

Ok here's the update...after my negative findings on my DIY tests on "Parasitic Load Draw" I decided to take the case to an auto electrician. He conducted the same tests that I did and found out that the alternator is the culprit, since the Alternator's Voltage Regulator is working fine. He was so sure that the alternator is not producing the much needed juice to power up the onboard electronics ie aircon, radio, headlight, wiper etc. The Hilander's stock alternator indicated an 40A rating dunno why it doesn't produce that much power but may be because of old age. He rewinded it using "larger" wires so as to raise the amp to 60-65 levels. I asked him to show me thru the multimeter the actual amp of the newly rewinded alternator but couldn't do so as he probably doesnt know how to and I don't know too.

After the rewinding works we tested the vehicle and its NOW juicing the way it should..during idle with the headlight, aircon, radio and wiper turned ON it registered 11.8.-12.6+ volts and further goes up during revs. While further rising up 13-14V with the electricals off and revs rising to 2.5k rpm.

Also installed my Volt Meter to see the roller coaster fluctuations of the battery voltage enabling you to react immediately while driving. I had this Volt Meter may be 6mos already but only installed it now. With everything off at the garage, the Volt Meter is showing a steady 12.3V which tells me right away that this vehicle will start as expected. For now I guess the problem has been solved but would further do some 1-2 weeks of observation to see if everything would work out fine.

PS
I was having doubt on the reliability of my 6month old "QUANTUM" brand battery and is also thinking that its also failing. Still contemplating on buying a Diesel Jump Starter to be able to address these problems on batteries suddenly being drained.

Good luck sir and I hope for you to try other auto electrician with a broader experience in auto electricals.

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Yung sa amin nagloko after naondoy...tagal na. pinarewind. Batt change na din. Pero meron pa din. Workaround ko is may nabili ako na guage na sinasaksak sa lighter socket. Constant monitoring lang. La naman problema pag tumatakbo na more than 1k rpm napansin ko. Problema lang is kapag naka.idle lalo na pag gabi tas bukas headlight na medyo mabigat load. Temp solution ko taasan konti rpm to around 750-800rpm pag idle at pag nakikita kong bumabagsak voltage bawasan ko load like patayin headlight kung matagal pa sa traffic light. Pero temp lang to..d ko din sure kung ano prob. Either mahina talga alternator na stock, mababa masgado rpm, or yung voltage regulator na nabanggit mo. D ako familiar sa voltage regulator though...balitaan mo kami dito sir if ever makahanap ka permanent solution...

*n_spinner06

Ok here's the update...after my negative findings on my DIY tests on "Parasitic Load Draw" I decided to take the case to an auto electrician. He conducted the same tests that I did and found out that the alternator is the culprit, since the Alternator's Voltage Regulator is working fine. He was so sure that the alternator is not producing the much needed juice to power up the onboard electronics ie aircon, radio, headlight, wiper etc. The Hilander's stock alternator indicated an 40A rating dunno why it doesn't produce that much power but may be because of old age. He rewinded it using "larger" wires so as to raise the amp to 60-65 levels. I asked him to show me thru the multimeter the actual amp of the newly rewinded alternator but couldn't do so as he probably doesnt know how to and I don't know too.

After the rewinding works we tested the vehicle and its NOW juicing the way it should..during idle with the headlight, aircon, radio and wiper turned ON it registered 11.8.-12.6+ volts and further goes up during revs. While further rising up 13-14V with the electricals off and revs rising to 2.5k rpm.

Also installed my Volt Meter to see the roller coaster fluctuations of the battery voltage enabling you to react immediately while driving. I had this Volt Meter may be 6mos already but only installed it now. With everything off at the garage, the Volt Meter is showing a steady 12.3V which tells me right away that this vehicle will start as expected. For now I guess the problem has been solved but would further do some 1-2 weeks of observation to see if everything would work out fine.

PS
I was having doubt on the reliability of my 6month old "QUANTUM" brand battery and is also thinking that its also failing. Still contemplating on buying a Diesel Jump Starter to be able to address these problems on batteries suddenly being drained.

Good luck sir and I hope for you to try other auto electrician with a broader experience in auto electricals.

[n_spinner06]

*n_spinner06

Ok here's the update...after my negative findings on my DIY tests on "Parasitic Load Draw" I decided to take the case to an auto electrician. He conducted the same tests that I did and found out that the alternator is the culprit, since the Alternator's Voltage Regulator is working fine. He was so sure that the alternator is not producing the much needed juice to power up the onboard electronics ie aircon, radio, headlight, wiper etc. The Hilander's stock alternator indicated an 40A rating dunno why it doesn't produce that much power but may be because of old age. He rewinded it using "larger" wires so as to raise the amp to 60-65 levels. I asked him to show me thru the multimeter the actual amp of the newly rewinded alternator but couldn't do so as he probably doesnt know how to and I don't know too.

After the rewinding works we tested the vehicle and its NOW juicing the way it should..during idle with the headlight, aircon, radio and wiper turned ON it registered 11.8.-12.6+ volts and further goes up during revs. While further rising up 13-14V with the electricals off and revs rising to 2.5k rpm.

Also installed my Volt Meter to see the roller coaster fluctuations of the battery voltage enabling you to react immediately while driving. I had this Volt Meter may be 6mos already but only installed it now. With everything off at the garage, the Volt Meter is showing a steady 12.3V which tells me right away that this vehicle will start as expected. For now I guess the problem has been solved but would further do some 1-2 weeks of observation to see if everything would work out fine.

PS
I was having doubt on the reliability of my 6month old "QUANTUM" brand battery and is also thinking that its also failing. Still contemplating on buying a Diesel Jump Starter to be able to address these problems on batteries suddenly being drained.

Good luck sir and I hope for you to try other auto electrician with a broader experience in auto electricals.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -



*n_spinner06

Ok here's the update...after my negative findings on my DIY tests on "Parasitic Load Draw" I decided to take the case to an auto electrician. He conducted the same tests that I did and found out that the alternator is the culprit, since the Alternator's Voltage Regulator is working fine. He was so sure that the alternator is not producing the much needed juice to power up the onboard electronics ie aircon, radio, headlight, wiper etc. The Hilander's stock alternator indicated an 40A rating dunno why it doesn't produce that much power but may be because of old age. He rewinded it using "larger" wires so as to raise the amp to 60-65 levels. I asked him to show me thru the multimeter the actual amp of the newly rewinded alternator but couldn't do so as he probably doesnt know how to and I don't know too.

After the rewinding works we tested the vehicle and its NOW juicing the way it should..during idle with the headlight, aircon, radio and wiper turned ON it registered 11.8.-12.6+ volts and further goes up during revs. While further rising up 13-14V with the electricals off and revs rising to 2.5k rpm.

Also installed my Volt Meter to see the roller coaster fluctuations of the battery voltage enabling you to react immediately while driving. I had this Volt Meter may be 6mos already but only installed it now. With everything off at the garage, the Volt Meter is showing a steady 12.3V which tells me right away that this vehicle will start as expected. For now I guess the problem has been solved but would further do some 1-2 weeks of observation to see if everything would work out fine.

PS
I was having doubt on the reliability of my 6month old "QUANTUM" brand battery and is also thinking that its also failing. Still contemplating on buying a Diesel Jump Starter to be able to address these problems on batteries suddenly being drained.

Good luck sir and I hope for you to try other auto electrician with a broader experience in auto electricals.

Thanks for the update! It's good that your problem got solved, albeit still under observation. My alternator got rewound already and i am considering a replacement or surplus item if it starts acting out again. Works fine in the meantime and the last motolite batt lasted more than 3 years before it died so i guess the occasional dips in voltage due to load doesnt cause the batt to quit prematurely anyway. Added workload due to constant monitoring lang talaga though. I don't mind really. I expect it to go down if i have the headlights are on and aircon fan is at #3 or 4 so predictable naman... And jump start cables saved me several times esp when the batt was about to quit already. I have it permanently on the vehicle...

[ParticleX]

*ronball

Most vehicles at idle (without accessories) register 13.4v or higher when measured. Kasi as you've said kung 11.8 -12.6+ volts lang when idle eh madidiskarga ka talaga since a fully charged battery rests at around 12.6v. Most likely sa wire grounding, weak battery, o faulty IC/voltage regulator ang problema.

Nacheck mo rin with another VOM/multitester? Para lang ma isolate, baka kasi out of calibration yung gamit mo.

[ronball]

Thanks for the update! It's good that your problem got solved, albeit still under observation. My alternator got rewound already and i am considering a replacement or surplus item if it starts acting out again. Works fine in the meantime and the last motolite batt lasted more than 3 years before it died so i guess the occasional dips in voltage due to load doesnt cause the batt to quit prematurely anyway. Added workload due to constant monitoring lang talaga though. I don't mind really. I expect it to go down if i have the headlights are on and aircon fan is at #3 or 4 so predictable naman... And jump start cables saved me several times esp when the batt was about to quit already. I have it permanently on the vehicle...

I have an onboard jumper cable sir but the thing is pumapara pa ko ng jeep before just to series my battery with the jeeps battery and of course pays him P100-150bucks for the hassle. What I mean to buy (still contemplating due to budget) is the Jump Starter equipment. Have come across this Indian made "Amaron" battery with very promising feedback like thicker plates, higher CCA and those stuffs. I guess I'll try that "Amaron" battery next time after this "Quantum" brand quits on me. That would be my 3rd battery brand if ever it pushes thru.

After the first night and an early morning trip to the market the reading is steady at 12.5V, got a little bit better if I may say.



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Thanks for the update! It's good that your problem got solved, albeit still under observation. My alternator got rewound already and i am considering a replacement or surplus item if it starts acting out again. Works fine in the meantime and the last motolite batt lasted more than 3 years before it died so i guess the occasional dips in voltage due to load doesnt cause the batt to quit prematurely anyway. Added workload due to constant monitoring lang talaga though. I don't mind really. I expect it to go down if i have the headlights are on and aircon fan is at #3 or 4 so predictable naman... And jump start cables saved me several times esp when the batt was about to quit already. I have it permanently on the vehicle...

I have an onboard jumper cable sir but the thing is pumapara pa ko ng jeep before just to series my battery with the jeeps battery and of course pays him P100-150bucks for the hassle. What I mean to buy (still contemplating due to budget) is the Jump Starter equipment. Have come across this Indian made "Amaron" battery with very promising feedback like thicker plates, higher CCA and those stuffs. I guess I'll try that "Amaron" battery next time after this "Quantum" brand quits on me. That would be my 3rd battery brand if ever it pushes thru.

After the first night and an early morning trip to the market the reading is steady at 12.5V, got a little bit better if I may say.

[ronball]

*ParticleX,
Thanks for the informative input. I'll keep on monitoring my voltage for now and hope it would go for the better. My batt now sits idle at 12.5V closer to the ideal 12.6V. Tried the Aircon & headlights on with the 2-2.5k rpm and it climbed up to 13.9 but never breached the 14V mark, which I believe is still ok but also bit low.

When I isolated the fuses last sunday there was still an insignificant draw at neg10-12ma. Insignificant according to the expert as -50ma is the magic number they would like to see on the reading.

Still, many thanks for your input

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*ParticleX,
Thanks for the informative input. I'll keep on monitoring my voltage for now and hope it would go for the better. My batt now sits idle at 12.5V closer to the ideal 12.6V. Tried the Aircon & headlights on with the 2-2.5k rpm and it climbed up to 13.9 but never breached the 14V mark, which I believe is still ok but also bit low.

When I isolated the fuses last sunday there was still an insignificant draw at neg10-12ma. Insignificant according to the expert as -50ma is the magic number they would like to see on the reading.

Still, many thanks for your input

[aioshin]

Hi Isuzu Hilander Owners, Tsikoters,

I got this random experience on my Xtrm hilander, when I attempt to do change gear, before I can transfer to another gear, the engine shut off. One time, I am running fifth gear, and try to change to 4th, before I can engage to 4th, engine shuts down, another one is from 3rd gear, tried reducing to 2nd, before I able to go to 2nd, engine shuts off, same thing, though upon starting it back, it starts, but I need to step the accelerator to pump some fuel... Could it be a dirty fuel filter? no chance to do the checking yet, but just in case someone here got the same experience, kindly advise.

thanks.

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Hi Isuzu Hilander Owners, Tsikoters,

I got this random experience on my Xtrm hilander, when I attempt to do change gear, before I can transfer to another gear, the engine shut off. One time, I am running fifth gear, and try to change to 4th, before I can engage to 4th, engine shuts down, another one is from 3rd gear, tried reducing to 2nd, before I able to go to 2nd, engine shuts off, same thing, though upon starting it back, it starts, but I need to step the accelerator to pump some fuel... Could it be a dirty fuel filter? no chance to do the checking yet, but just in case someone here got the same experience, kindly advise.

thanks.