test pic muna...hehe

**miked** · February 17th, 2011 04:58 PM

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**miked** · February 17th, 2011 05:02 PM

sa mga mods,

test pic lang po bago ko ishare ang DIY ko....salamat.

**miked** · February 18th, 2011 10:46 AM

Engine is 4D56Turbo with head gasket problem...Symptom/s:constant bubbling at rad neck, high pressure buildup when cold (cooling system), constant addition of water, overheating.

with the workshop manual,some handwritten guides, replacement part, regular handtools and special tools...it can be a DIY job. Anyone who knows how to turn a wrench (those noob like me in this job) aided by mechanical proficiency and safety can also do this job. Special tools include torque wrench (better get the auto click type), 10 mm hex socket, feeler gage and straightedge or any leveling tool.
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1. Remove upper timing cover, PS & Alt belts, PS pump & bracket, intake manifold, air cleaner, valve cover, lay aside exhaust and turbo assy, as well as the radiator to give you more room to maneuver
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**miked** · February 18th, 2011 10:54 AM

Remove injection pipe (dual wrench action) as well as fuel overflow, electrical grounds to cyl head (take note: disconnect battery negative first before any work is done)
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Cover all ports and openings. I used small plastic and tie wires.
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Next align timing marks via the crankshaft nut (19mm):
Camshaft
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Crankshaft
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Injection Pump
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**miked** · February 18th, 2011 11:04 AM

Cover timing belt to prevent contamination.
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Remove rocker arm and shaft assy. don't lose the washers.

Now use the special tool plus the breaker arm/socket handle and extension

Following the removal guide, remove headbolts starting from the outer moving to the inner bolts alternately (usually moving in circles). Installation would be the reverse: from inner to outer bolts. My headbolts were unusually loose!!!

These are the headbolts...some were rusted. could be due to coolant.

**miked** · February 18th, 2011 11:33 AM

With the timing belt removed and tied to the Injection Pump, Remove the cylinder head. Don't pry in between block and head. You may damage the sealing surface. What i did is to tap the sides evenly. then using the head casting at the front, tap the head up using a block of wood and hammer. some heads may be difficult to remove but with patience. You may see from the pic that i tapped on the sprocket but it's not.
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Lift the head vertically. Do not remove it sideways due to protruding headbolt holes at the front and rear. this is the head coated with lovely carbon.....
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Mcguyver covers on the nozzles to prevent entry of "foreigners"
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I used gasoline to clean the head as well as the block with the help of a gasket scraper... Now measure any warp on the head using the feeler gage. Standard value for this specific engine is 0.05mm while the limit is 0.2 mm...I also checked airtightness of the valves by pouring gasoline to every intake and exhaust ports. Cyl#4 Intake valve weeps a very little amount. Well, i didn't bother diassembling the valves to grind them....the reason? i don't have that much time and the special tool to do it...besides the machine shop is fully booked.
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Plus, the head got cracks on the precombustion chamber inserts....these were seen before during the 2nd head gasket replacement done by my mechanic. I still didn't bother to change them.
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**miked** · February 18th, 2011 11:41 AM

This specific engine is 4D56B Turbo....which is a protruding valve...4D56A heads have valves flush with the head surface.
4D56B = early models 1993 and below (not sure) have 136.5 mm length valves
4D56A = late models 1993 and up, have 130 mm length valves
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Rocker shaft assy and cyl head assy also cleaned out of debris

Spot the different head gasket! Alin, alin ang naiba?! middle gasket was coated with gasket shellac. 1st gasket change no shellac. this 3rd time around there will be no shellac. just the gasket.

**miked** · February 18th, 2011 11:52 AM

The reason why you need to lift the head vertically not sideways....protruding headbolt hole in the rear....

and at the front

Dirty piston. See the piston surface pattern? pattern according to valve position. usually intake valves have larger "mushroom" diameter than exhaust valves for the primary reason of diluting any combustion gases left during the intake-exhaust overlapping of the valves

See the carbon on the top of the cylinder liner. this is where the top compression ring ends...These built-up carbon have the possibility of breaking the rings if excessive.

Block and pistons cleaned out of debris. TC and arrow marks on the piston indicates the timing belt side and a piston designed to higher pressures of supercharging.

**miked** · February 18th, 2011 12:13 PM

Timing belt tied with tie wire to prevent rotation during the disassembly and cleaning.

My son got hold of the camera and took a down-to-earth shot.

Now Measure any presence of warp on the block. 0.05mm is the standard and 0.1mm is the limit. i got a measurement of in excess of the limit between the cyl# 3 and #4 on the manifold side...no refacing was done since the head gasket can fill the gap (with crossed fingers)...well, the engine is running fine for 3 months now.

This is the head gasket (Federal mogul Part#60279 replaces MD050545) for 4D56 as well as 4D55...yes they have the same heads...if i'm not mistaken, 56s and 55s differ in the stroke length but with the same bore.

For the cleaning process, i used a hand pump with lots of numerous pumping for each hole. Take note: no Air compressor Used!