Toyota Revo Low Headlight Power and Low Dashlight power

[Walter]

Had battery and alternator checked at Motolite ... it was 13.9-14V and doesn't move when engine is revved ... they said it was barely charging the battery ... which is true since battery gets drained every two weeks ... have a smart battery charger ...

So had it repaired ... IC was replaced ... IC 2,000 + labor 550, alternator pull-out 750 ... now alternator output is at 14.5V-15V ... thought it was producing too much ... had output voltage checked twice and they said 15V is still within acceptable range ... 14.7V is ideal ...

[timtonymanu]

Share ko lang din experience sa alternator ng Revo ng opisina namin. I dont know if off-topic pero baka makatulong sa mga concerned.

Laging problemado yung driver namin dahil "weak" yung pag turn ng starter during mornings pag papa-andarin yung sasakyan. medyo bago pa yung battery (less than 1 year, maintenance free), pina check yung alternator, ok naman, charging voltage siya kapag umaandar sasakyan (13.x to 14.x volts in idle and revved). Starter is also ok, since kapag starting in-between drivings lang eh maganda naman ikot nya. So hinayaan lang namin, thinking na may parasitic drain somewhere sa electrical system, na proven naman dahil ang ginawa namin na remedyo sa situation na ito ay tinatanggal namin yung negative terminal ng baterya sa gabi, at pag ikinabit namin sa umaga eh nag i-spark siya, meaning may drawn current agad kahi naka-off lahat ng electrical load.

After a while, one day pagbalik ng driver namin sa office, sabi nya medyo mabaho yung sasakyan, amoy imburnal, so I checked, lo and behold, fried ang battery (ung amoy imburnal pala eh amoy ng sulfur na main component ng tubig ng baterya), as in nung nakita ko steaming sa mga vents ung sulfuric acid at bloated yung battery.

Before buying a replacement battery, we decided to have the alternator checked first (isasabay na din sana namin yung replacement ng inner and outer bearings kasi may konting ingay na). Pagdating sa alternator shop ayaw na i-repair kasi bukod sa medyo sunog na yung wirings (medyo nangingitim nga naman compared sa normal functioning units), eh toasted na din yung IC. Kaya pala na-luto yung baterya dahil hindi na nagregulate yung kuryente kapag umaandar yung makina, meaning kahit full charge na yung battery, dahil walang regulator, eh tuloy pa din ang pasok ng kuryente sa baterya. At isa daw sa early symptoms ng failing IC is yung parasitic drain (without me mentioning our previous predicament), kasi sabi nya agad "di nyo ba napapansin humihina baterya nyo pag di nagamit kahit magdamag yung sasakyan".

We ended up replacing the alternator with a brand new replacement unit, costing us P7,400.00, including installation. Problem solved, di na nag-oovercharge yung battery and wala ng parasitic drain, madali na siya mag start even after long weekends (at kahit di na din namin tanggalin yung negative terminal).

Hope this helps.

[dynamo1131]

Thank you for all your inputs and I will check the alternator as advised.