Jumper cable amp rating

[12vdc]

^ Could be if shorted. In actual, usually lower than terminal voltage and not enough juice (current).

[miked]

ginagamit ko rin yung welding cables ko na 50 sq. mm sa jump starting. crimped connections with minimal soldering.

[kinyo]

when you only have two components in a circuit, e.g, a battery and a motor, the connection is both series and parallel

series because they have the same current, parallel because they have the same voltage

[kinyo]

maybe ... old folks say "series" because it is easier to remember

btt: on cheaper jumper cables, the usual fault is the crimping ... soldering the copper conductor to the clamp will fix it

[[archie]]

kaya minsan natatawa ako sa mga thread dito, jumper cable question should have not reached a 2nd page. simple lang naman, kung mahina jumper, let it run 5 mins or 10mins kung hindi pa rin start. I personally use gauge 4 power cables, walang clamp na. ilang beses ko na ginamit, walang problema.


o teka baka ipabili ako rubber gloves to satisfy the theory of sparks etc.

[12vdc]

^
Specific data kasi gusto malaman ng TS, while yung nasa market na jumper cables are too good to be true.

How do you make connection to the batteries without the clamps, you undo the terminal screws and insert, or its a 3-man job? You can actually jumpstart without the use of cables, just lift the slave battery and poke the terminals together. Risky thou as acids could spill, thats when you will be needing the nitrile gloves.

Napaisip tuloy ako, my newly acquired jumper cable for my van might be as useless as some others have mentioned (like umiinit lang, or just what happened to Cath). My jumper in my truck is AC Delco brand and it served me well (was able to jumpstart a cousins car and few neighbors), but what if i need to jumper larger vehicles. Baka sumablay din.

Got some spare welding cables and now Im thinking of fabricating my own. Hmmm.

[[archie]]

just a one man job, wrap around the terminal. wala pa 5secs, start na.

[12vdc]

Mahirap wrap around for me, lalo na mabilisan.

I checked my new booster cable. It has no UL 1839 but has safety labels. The crimps are good but i have to solder the exposed strands.

Alongside is my sample welding wire, notice how big it is.. It got many strands too.

[12vdc]

25mm2, thats somewhere around AWG3. Almost same size na ng mains battery cable of small cars.

15feet, no clamps yet.


As compared to

12ft


Almost thrice the weight.

Will do this as weekend project.

[Retz]

Jumper cable is a must for auto tranny vehicle.

[uls]

sariling gawa na jumper cable

pang start ng 24V trucks and heavy machines




di ko na kailangan problemahin ang amp rating amp rating na yan

that's welding cable

more than enough for any starter we got here

[JohnM]

Parang gets ko na kung bakit not recommended ang negative to negative terminal. May napanood ako sa Discovery Turbo (The Garage). Pekeng M3 ginagawa nila and namatayan ng battery sa shop kaya ni-charge muna. After a few minutes charging nagstart na so tinanggal na ng mekaniko ang clips ng charger. Biglang BOOM! Yun pala di nya na-unplug muna ang charger bago tinanggal ang clamps. Nagspark pagtanggal and nag-ignite ang gases sa loob ng batt. Takbo agad sa CR ang mekaniko para maligo.

So if nasa block or body ang ground connection mo pagtanggal less chances mag-ignite dahil malayo sa battery. Once natanggal na yun wala nang circuit so safe na tanggalin ang iba.

[[archie]]

ganto na lang, kung ayaw neg to neg, edi lagay sa body neg.

edit: sa jumper cables, Ewan ko ba kung bakit kailangan alalahanin amp rating, basta gumagana ok na yan. kahit kasing kapal pa ng braso, 12v to 12v or 24v to 24v, yan pa rin ang dadaloy na voltage.

[12vdc]

sariling gawa na jumper cable

pang start ng 24V trucks and heavy machines

di ko na kailangan problemahin ang amp rating amp rating na yan

that's welding cable

more than enough for any starter we got here

Anlake! Yung DIY ko from inverter welder kaya gauge 3 lang, pero palagay ko kaya din magstart ng 24V neto. Pwede din double purpose, tow cable..haha

Parang gets ko na kung bakit not recommended ang negative to negative terminal. May napanood ako sa Discovery Turbo (The Garage). Pekeng M3 ginagawa nila and namatayan ng battery sa shop kaya ni-charge muna. After a few minutes charging nagstart na so tinanggal na ng mekaniko ang clips ng charger. Biglang BOOM! Yun pala di nya na-unplug muna ang charger bago tinanggal ang clamps. Nagspark pagtanggal and nag-ignite ang gases sa loob ng batt. Takbo agad sa CR ang mekaniko para maligo.

So if nasa block or body ang ground connection mo pagtanggal less chances mag-ignite dahil malayo sa battery. Once natanggal na yun wala nang circuit so safe na tanggalin ang iba.

Dapat well ventilated. Hydrogen buildup nangyari.

edit: sa jumper cables, Ewan ko ba kung bakit kailangan alalahanin amp rating, basta gumagana ok na yan. kahit kasing kapal pa ng braso, 12v to 12v or 24v to 24v, yan pa rin ang dadaloy na voltage.

Dapat consider wire gauge, ang analogy ng wire is parang tubo ng tubig. The larger, the more current could pass. Kung malaki ang amp draw ng starter at solenoid, iinit lang ang wire (electron congestion).

As a general rule based fron nabasa ko - gauge 6 for small cars, extending the length increases the resistance so u have to increase the gauge, the bigger/shorter the better.

[[archie]]

umabot pa sa transmission and pulley, labo.

[Retz]

Kailangan pa bang mag suot ng jumper suit habang nag jujumper?

[uls]

Kailangan pa bang mag suot ng jumper suit habang nag jujumper?

ay oo

required

sobra

[_Cathy_]

Kailangan pa bang mag suot ng jumper suit habang nag jujumper?

Retz, seriously? :rofl:

Pinost na ni uls yung proper attire pag gagamit ka ng jumper cable

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk 4 Beta

[12vdc]

Patay ka din sa hazmat jung hydrogen bomb este hydrogen buildup sa battery.

Eto proper suit for handling battery.

[uls]

Patay ka din sa hazmat jung hydrogen bomb este hydrogen buildup sa battery.

Eto proper suit for handling battery.

haha

ayan

pang bomb squad