Battery drain.

[dr. d]

older design batteries allowed for individual checking of cells. the defective cell(s) can be isolated and replaced or re-built.
vehicle owners on a thin budget still do this.

[dr. d]

I have seen some did so out of sheer goodwill

Its the appreciative private car owners who express their token of appreciation by offering monetary rewards to a kind gesture

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that's nice.
but jumper cables are not factory spec. someone has to purchase them.
but yes. there are good-hearted folks out there.
also, jumper cables go both ways.
heh heh.

ang puj, walang jumper. tulak lang sila. push-start. dahil walang starter ang iba.
if you notice, many pujs have bumper hits. not because they got into accidents, but because, to them, push-start is a way of life.

[Archerfish]

A battery is made up of 6 cells, each cell is about 2.1V

6x2.1V = 12.6V, thats the peak voltage of a healthy battery

When an engine is started the starter draws current from the battery. Thats known as loading (starter) the source (batt). When current is drawn from the source the voltage of the battery source will sink (go down). Thats the nature of the battery with and without a load.

Now if a cell of a battety deteriorates, the peak voltage of 12.6V will go down to 10.5V. Each cell that dies on a battery reduces the voltage by 2.1V.

If cranking the starter reduces the voltage by 2V. A healthy batt with 12.6V will sink to 10.6V for an engine to start. A batt with dead cell will have a 10.5V to begin with will sink to 8.5V once the engine is started. As more cells die the battery becomes weak and no longer useful to start an engine and replaced

So a voltmeter is an uncommon tool found on cars. Refitting one is a good move for any car owners. Its the best companion in any travel to monitor the health of your car battery

Complement it with a portable jumpstarter and always keep it charged could be a charm when your battery begins to show signs of failing.





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Thank you for this explanation! Now this answers my question why those battery shops will buy your busted battery. They can make a "reconditioned​ battery" by exchanging the dead cells.

I always bring my portable charger and jump-start battery. Unfortunately, I gave my portable battery to my brother. I suppose I can buy a new one.

...

Optionally, people can invest on an in-vehicle battery tester that will test both the battery condition and charging system. Either that, or just drop by a Motolite shop and have the same tested for free.

For a cheapskate like me, I don't want to buy this battery tester if it is possible to check my battery with my multimeter. I don't want to put something​ that is not OEM, as much as possible, as I consider it as "clutter".

I think I should have bought a clamp meter instead of this multimeter. The only reason I bought this is for our project, we needed to measure the room temperature. I was thinking that a multimeter is a handy tool but I'm​ thinking now that a clamp meter is better. I can simply turn on the car without starting the engine. In that way, I can monitor the current. The question is, the "correct value" of Ampere reading.

yes and no.

you have to challenge the battery's ability to give out a heavy current. cranking does that. they even ask you to turn on all your headlights and aircon.

if you check the battery without challenging it, you will probably still get a 12 volt reading, even if the battery will die the next day.

with the engine running, you are now measuring the alternator's output, which is 13-14 volts. you are not measuring the battery's output.
they also test this, because, in many instances, the battery is dying because the alternator is defective.

yes, it is possible to check a battery that is not even connected to the car.
in older shops, the gadget they use has a large resistance wire that glows lightly, mimicking the starter's high current drain.
i am assuming, electronic instruments that do not glow hot in the dark, can do this. i used to have a cigarette lighter meter, that warns me of my battery's condition.

i'm eager to hear from kim. i am more historical. he is more up to date.

To justify my purchase of this "expensive" five thousand peso multimeter, I hope to get a detailed guide on how to make the one that you mentioned. The ones I found in the internet is too complicated​ for me or just not OEM for me or I just​ didn't search thoroughly enough.

[kisshmet]

that's nice.
but jumper cables are not factory spec. someone has to purchase them.
but yes. there are good-hearted folks out there.
also, jumper cables go both ways.
heh heh.

ang puj, walang jumper. tulak lang sila. push-start. dahil walang starter ang iba.
if you notice, many pujs have bumper hits. not because they got into accidents, but because, to them, push-start is a way of life.

I saw the taxi driver used a simple housing electrical cable and it worked

Portable jumpstarters dont have a heavy duty cable as well..large clips but smaller diameter than the commercial jumper cables

Portable jumpstarters are not simple cables..its a small battery with electronics and cable clips to jumpstart a stalled engine with a weak battery

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[dr. d]

I saw the taxi driver used a simple housing electrical cable and it worked

Portable jumpstarters dont have a heavy duty cable as well..large clips but smaller diameter than the commercial jumper cables

Portable jumpstarters are not simple cables..its a small battery with electronics and cable clips to jumpstart a stalled engine with a weak battery

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jumpstarters.
jumpstarter cables.
two different things.

[dr. d]

Thank you for this explanation! Now this answers my question why those battery shops will buy your busted battery. They can make a "reconditioned​ battery" by exchanging the dead cells.

I always bring my portable charger and jump-start battery. Unfortunately, I gave my portable battery to my brother. I suppose I can buy a new one.





For a cheapskate like me, I don't want to buy this battery tester if it is possible to check my battery with my multimeter. I don't want to put something​ that is not OEM, as much as possible, as I consider it as "clutter".

I think I should have bought a clamp meter instead of this multimeter. The only reason I bought this is for our project, we needed to measure the room temperature. I was thinking that a multimeter is a handy tool but I'm​ thinking now that a clamp meter is better. I can simply turn on the car without starting the engine. In that way, I can monitor the current. The question is, the "correct value" of Ampere reading.






To justify my purchase of this "expensive" five thousand peso multimeter, I hope to get a detailed guide on how to make the one that you mentioned. The ones I found in the internet is too complicated​ for me or just not OEM for me or I just​ didn't search thoroughly enough.

for testing ordinary circuits, home and auto, buy the cheap ones at handyman or ace. less than 500 pesos. i have both analog and digital.
"they'll do."
i prefer the heavier model, as the unit sometimes gets carried away by the leads.

the one you have pictured here, the manurfacturer put in all those pictures on the box, to impress the prospective buyer.

[oj88]

For a cheapskate like me, I don't want to buy this battery tester if it is possible to check my battery with my multimeter. I don't want to put something​ that is not OEM, as much as possible, as I consider it as "clutter".

Clutter? What are you talking about?

"In-vehicle" means that the tester is used with the battery still installed/connected to the vehicle. It checks the overall battery condition, like internal resistance, cold cranking Amps (CCA), etc., and gives a report on the state of health (SOH) and state of charge (SOC) of the battery (0-100%) along with other information. The same tool is also used to check the charging system of the vehicle (with instructions to raise the engine RPM to a certain speed while it does its measurements). With that, it also provides the ripple voltage (indicates how well the voltage from the alternator is regulated and filtered), etc.

The measurements below is from my 3 y/o Innova Diesel.

I think I should have bought a clamp meter instead of this multimeter. The only reason I bought this is for our project, we needed to measure the room temperature. I was thinking that a multimeter is a handy tool but I'm​ thinking now that a clamp meter is better. I can simply turn on the car without starting the engine. In that way, I can monitor the current. The question is, the "correct value" of Ampere reading.

Using a multimeter alone is not the right tool for the job. Voltage measurements does not reflect what is happening inside the battery or your charging system at a granular or detailed level. A "dead" battery could exhibit 12+V open circuit with a multimeter. But as soon as you connect it to a load and current starts flowing, internal resistance comes into play and will then cause the battery voltage to drop below usable levels.

[Archerfish]

Clutter? What are you talking about?

"In-vehicle" means that the tester is used with the battery still installed/connected to the vehicle. It checks the overall battery condition, like internal resistance, cold cranking Amps (CCA), etc., and gives a report on the state of health (SOH) and state of charge (SOC) of the battery (0-100%) along with other information. The same tool is also used to check the charging system of the vehicle (with instructions to raise the engine RPM to a certain speed while it does its measurements). With that, it also provides the ripple voltage (indicates how well the voltage from the alternator is regulated and filtered), etc.

The measurements below is from my 3 y/o Innova Diesel.





Using a multimeter alone is not the right tool for the job. Voltage measurements does not reflect what is happening inside the battery or your charging system at a granular or detailed level. A "dead" battery could exhibit 12+V open circuit with a multimeter. But as soon as you connect it to a load and current starts flowing, internal resistance comes into play and will then cause the battery voltage to drop below usable levels.

Clutter

I'm referring to the ones plugged in the cigarette lighter. I thought you were talking about that one, my mistake. In that case, regarding the multimeter, I might just leave that at home and buy the one that you posted.

I thought​ I can get away with that multimeter. That means​ it will be inside the cabinet for most of the time...

[Vodka]

for testing ordinary circuits, home and auto, buy the cheap ones at handyman or ace. less than 500 pesos. i have both analog and digital.
"they'll do."
i prefer the heavier model, as the unit sometimes gets carried away by the leads.

the one you have pictured here, the manurfacturer put in all those pictures on the box, to impress the prospective buyer.

i just googled that DMM. it's loaded. measures light, sound, temperature, humidity. but personally i prefer separate devices

[Archerfish]

i just googled that DMM. it's loaded. measures light, sound, temperature, humidity. but personally i prefer separate devices

Yes, because we needed to measure lux intensity and room temperature all at the same time. The lux intensity x1 and x10 are inconsistent. Other than that, everything works fine.

EDIT: That multimeter is user friendly, the slots will lit up for you to know what socket you should use and will emit an audible sound should you put it on the other slot. Of course, this is not idiot proof.