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  1. Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    6,235
    #1
    Quote Originally Posted by mykpogi View Post
    My family's vehicles:

    2005 Toyota Vios (daily drive) - 160km mileage - repairs: 3x compressor change, 2x shock absorber change, 4x axle boot repair, regular pms (every 2 months) sa speedyfix using RP oil.

    2005 Isuzu Alterra (coding and weekend car) - 70km mileage - repairs: 1x SCV change, regular pms (every 6 months) sa shell.

    2007 Ford Everest - 40km mileage - repairs: 1x SCV change, transmission repair, yearly pms sa casa.

    2010 Hyundai Starex - 40k mileage - repairs: major engine breakdown, very unreliable, naka-parada lang sa bahay, regular pms sa shell.

    2012 Mitsubishi Monterosport - 20k mileage - repairs: acceleration issues, already replaced electronic throttle system. transmission issues, differential problems.

    2013 Toyota Fortuner (not ours, sa pinsan ko) - 15k mileage - repairs: replaced shocks, sliding clutch fixed, replaced brake system


    so which is the most reliable?
    Isuzu Alterra 2005 IMHO.
    Grabe bro! Bat parang ang sirain ng sasakyan nyo? None of our vehicles ranging from year model 2001 to year model 2013 have ever changed shocks yet.

    Our family friend's 2009 Fortuner and our 2013 Strada have had no issues whatsoever so far.

    Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

  2. Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    27,624
    #2
    If I were to buy a car simply for reliability I'd get a new rav4 4x2 6at

    +2.5 camry engine, understressed + clean fuel + no worries from turbo
    +6AT
    +medium duty suspension setup, better than subcompacts.

  3. Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    1,723
    #3
    If I was worried about reliability I would just lease instead
    They pay for everything that goes wrong while you own it

  4. Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    1,711
    #4
    RAV4 (Gen2) ko mag 10years na sa Dec.

    ung mga 3 door at Gen1 hanga ngayon madami pa ako nakikita sa road.

  5. Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    1,711
    #5
    Quote Originally Posted by yapoy86 View Post
    hindi ba Dyip at Jeepney ang reliable sa Philippines? since 1950 pa still running...

    san ka ba mag base ng reliability? pwede kasi na kaya hindi nasisira kasi bihira gamitin. pwede naman na madalas masira kasi bugbog naman sa gamit?
    ang jeepney naman ang nagtatagal ay kaha, ung engine at pang ilalim pinapalitan since allowed naman ng LTO ung repairs. kaya hindi nakakapagtaka na meron pa din jeep na matanda na sa papel.

  6. Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    5,179
    #6
    It's hard to judge the reliability of a vehicle kung less than 5 years existing.

    Brand new ang usapan kasi. You can only make an educated guess on past performance of a car model.

    Well unless kung brand new owners pa lang may problema na, Paano pa in then next 10 years.
    Last edited by [archie]; August 1st, 2014 at 05:54 PM.

  7. Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Posts
    414
    #7
    Reliable na brand new? I believe that it has to prove itself over time before you can brand it reliable.

    Posted via Tsikot Mobile App

  8. Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Posts
    132
    #8
    go for isuzu crosswind kahit whole day ka nka idle and nka on ang AC no problem encounter. nangyari nung nanood kmi ng motocross at bilad pa yun sa araw. reliable at durable talaga ang isuzu.

  9. Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    43
    #9
    UPDATE

    This is a long post but if you are really a car enthusiast/expert then you should most likely read the whole post:

    Here is the list of cars suggested by members who posted in this thread:
    1. Isuzu Alterra urban cruiser
    -2005 model - repairs: 1x SCV change, regular pms (every 6 months) sa shell.
    2. Toyota Innova
    No Major Breakdowns, just wear and tear
    3. Isuzu Crosswind/Sportivo
    - Minimal electronics, no computer box, sturdy chassis, fuel efficient (though slow and rather noisy) engine. You'd have to live with no ABS and airbags though.
    4. Toyota Vios
    5. Toyota Corolla
    6. Mitsubishi Montero Sport
    -However one member had a very problematic Montero Sport, so I am not completely sure about this
    7. Toyota Fortuner
    8. Hyundai Santa Fe 4x4 (Korean)
    9. Mitsubishi Adventure
    - Minimal electronics, no computer box, sturdy chassis, fuel efficient (though slow and rather noisy) engine. You'd have to live with no ABS and airbags though.
    10. Rav4
    -Rav4 4x2 6at
    11. Honda City
    -2003 iDSL CVT was not problematic



    Some of the members here suggested vehicles that are not included in the classification that I posted so I didn't include them in the list above.


    Summary of all the tips mentioned:
    1. Buy car with least amount of electornics, gizmos, and modifications
    2. Toyota is currently the most reliable brand
    3. Even toyota could produce lemon units
    4. To get the chance of having the most reliable unit go for the CBU Japan made car (CBU-Complete Built Up[Means the unit is completely built in japan])
    5. Someone posted this link about the http://www.autoguide.com/auto-news/2014/06/top-ranked-new-cars-initial-quality-vehicle-class.html but I am not sure if this is applicable to the vehicles sold here in the Philippines. Nevertheless according to this link here are the top rank new cars in initial quality:
    a.Sub-Compact cars - #1.Hyundai accent, #2.Mazda2
    b.Compact cars - #1.Hyundai Elantra, #2. Toyota Corolla, #3. Honda Civic
    A lot of the vehicles listed aren't even sold in the Philippines and some are out of the budget.
    6.Lexus is the most reliable car brand however their cars surpasses the budget (1.7m)


    Questions and Answers:
    1. "san ka ba mag base ng reliability? pwede kasi na kaya hindi nasisira kasi bihira gamitin. pwede naman na madalas masira kasi bugbog naman sa gamit?" - Hindi siya bihira gamitin, hindi rin siya bug-bug sa pag-gamit. It is somewhere in between where I would drive it every day pero di naman bugbugin ng todo. Average distance would be 6-8km per trip (Point A to Point B and then turning off the engine and leaving the car for several hours before going to another trip again). Average distance per day would be 32km - 40km.



    TEMPORARY CONCLUSION
    Several vehicles have been mentioned however these vehicles have specific variants. Here is a table showing the prices of all of these vehicles that I am considering based on my own research and based on the suggestions of the members who posted in this thread. This table is sorted by preference wherein the most preferred would be starting from the top(corolla) and the least would be at the bottom(Adventure). Prices are updated as of August 2014.:

    Vehicle_____________________________Manual Transmission_______Automatic Transmission
    Corolla Altis 1.6 E______________________________P 836,000
    Corolla Altis 1.6 G______________________________P 879,000______________P 935,000
    Corolla Altis 1.6 V_________________________________________________ ___P 999,000
    Corolla Altis 2.0 V_________________________________________________ ___P 1,201,000
    Vios 1.3 Base__________________________________P 592,000
    Vios 1.3 J_____________________________________P 630,000
    Vios 1.3 E_____________________________________P 727,000 _____________P 762,000
    Vios 1.5 G_____________________________________P 812,000_____________P 847,000
    City 1.5 E_____________________________________P 756,000_____________P 796,000
    City 1.5 E Modulo Utility___________________________________________ ____P 821,000
    City 1.5 VX________________________________________________ _________P 880,000
    City 1.5 VX Aero Sports____________________________________________ ___P 935,000
    City 1.5 VX+_______________________________________________ _________P 970,000
    Fortuner 2.7 G VVT-i 2WD_____________________________________________P 1,277,000
    Fortuner 2.5 G D-4D VNT 2WD____________________P 1,290,000
    Fortuner 2.5 G D-4D VNT 2WD__________________________________________P 1,360,000
    Fortuner 2.5 V D-4D VNT 2WD__________________________________________P 1,490,000
    Mazda 3 1.5 V Skyactiv 4DR____________________________________________P 945,000
    Mazda 3 2.0 R Skyactiv 4DR____________________________________________P 1,195,000
    Lancer EX 1.6 GLX______________________________P 840,000 _____________P 870,000
    Lancer EX 1.6 MX________________________________________________ ____P 940,000
    Lancer EX 2.0 GT-A_________________________________________________ __P 1,195,000
    Civic 1.8 S __________________________________________________ _______P 978,000
    Civic 1.8 E Modulo____________________________________________ _______P 1,118,000
    Civic 2.0 EL MUGEN_____________________________________________ _____P 1,368,000
    RAV4 2WD __________________________________________________ _______P 1,357,000
    RAV4 2WD Full Option ________________________________________________P 1,581,000
    ASX GLS 2WD_______________________________________________ _______P 1,275,000
    Alterra Urban Cruiser X 4WD___________________________________________P 1,718,000
    Innova 2.0 J__________________________________P 832,000
    Innova 2.5 J__________________________________P 887,000
    Innova 2.0 E__________________________________P 942,000______________P 1,007,000
    Innova 2.5 E__________________________________P 997,000______________P 1,062,000
    Innova 2.0 G__________________________________P 1,058,000____________P 1,123,000
    Innova 2.5 G__________________________________P 1,113,000____________P 1,178,000
    Innova 2.0 V_________________________________________________ _______P 1,206,000
    Innova 2.5 V_________________________________________________ _______P 1,261,000
    Crosswind XS_________________________________P 750,000
    Crosswind XL_________________________________P 794,000
    Crosswind XT_________________________________P 883,000
    Crosswind Sportivo JS 9-Seater___________________P 1,130,000
    Crosswind Sportivo X 8-Seater____________________P 1,130,000_____________P 1,195,000
    Adventure TX_________________________________P 680,000
    Adventure GX_________________________________P 725,000
    Adventure GLX Updated_________________________P 860,000
    Adventure GLS Sport Updated____________________P 920,000
    Adventure Super Sport__________________________P 965,000


    It is arranged this way because the my order of preference would be sedans, SUV's, lastly MPV's or AUV's. It does not mean that since my budget is 1.7m then I should go for the most expensive vehicle in the list, remember that it is also a plus to be able to choose the vehicle that is still the most reliable despite its relatively cheaper price. I am not that sure about Mazda and Mitsubishi but I just included these two because they are japanese brands. You can clearly see that this is divided by the type of transmission that is offered in each vehicle. As of now, my preference of the type of transmission would be 50/50 on Automatic(CVT/Traditional Automatic/Dual-Clutch) vs Manual Transmission. I am still researching more on this subject matter but I have read that the manual transmission would be phased out(not completely) in the future since its advantages are becoming fewer as the Automatic transmission technology progresses. Notice how Mazda and Honda no longer provide a manual transmission variant for the Mazda3 and the Civic.

    If I were to choose a vehicle with a manual transmission then my choices would be ranked like this:
    1. Corolla Altis 1.6 G__________P 879,000
    2. Vios 1.5 G________________P 812,000
    3. City 1.5 E_________________P 756,000
    4. Fortuner 2.7 G VVT-i 2WD____P 1,277,000
    5. Lancer EX 1.6 GLX__________P 840,000
    6. Crosswind XT______________P 883,000
    7. Innova 2.5 E_______________P 997,000
    8. Adventure Super Sport_______P 965,000

    If I were to choose a vehicle with an automatic transmission then my choices would be ranked like this:
    1. Corolla Altis 2.0 V____________P 1,201,000
    2. Corolla Altis 1.6 V____________P 999,000
    3. Vios 1.5 G__________________P 847,000
    4. City 1.5 VX_________________P 880,000
    5. Mazda 3 2.0 R Skyactiv 4DR____P 1,195,000
    6. Mazda 3 1.5 V Skyactiv 4DR____P 945,000
    7. Fortuner 2.5 G D4D VNT 2WD___P 1,360,000
    8. RAV4 2WD__________________P 1,357,000
    9. Lancer EX 2.0 GT-A ___________P 1,195,000
    10. Lancer EX 1.6 MX___________P 940,000
    11. Civic 2.0 EL MUGEN_________P 1,368,000
    12. Civic 1.8 E Modulo__________P 1,118,000
    13. Alterra Urban Cruiser X 4WD__P 1,718,000
    14. Crosswind Sportivo(8seatr)___P 1,195,000
    15. Innova 2.5 G______________P 1,178,000

  10. Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    43
    #10
    CONTINUATION


    Notice how all of these vehicles are Japanese, I didn't include korean(Hyundai) and US(Ford) brands because it has been said too many times before that Japanese is superior in terms of reliability. Although the Isuzu Alterra is dubbed as the most reliable vehicle according to the members here, the reason why it is nearly at the bottom of the list is because of its price which is slightly above the maximum budget. This is still incomplete but my temporary final verdict for the top 2 most reliable brand new cars(2014-2015) here in the Philippines according to my preference would be:
    1. 2014 Toyota Corolla
    2. 2014 Toyota Vios


    The Toyota Corolla has been tried and tested for its reliability and it is the best selling vehicle in the world. My dilemma right now is whether to buy the manual transmission variant of the Corolla or the CVT variant of the Corolla. This is the first time that Toyota has installed a CVT in a Corolla and I am not quite sure yet in terms of its reliability. If the CVT variant is indeed reliable then my next dilemma would be choosing between the 1.6V variant or the 2.0V variant. Is the 200k peso difference worth it? Three things that the 2.0v variant has that the 1.6V doesn't have are the leather seats, the one-tone color of the interior which is black, and the paddle shifters. I really despise the two-tone color of the 1.6V's interior since it is beige+black which doesn't look good to me at all. Then again I am reminded that the vehicle with the least amount of electronics, gizmos, and modifications would be the most reliable as suggested by one of the members here. I am also trying to figure out the fuel consumption difference between the 2.0V and the 1.6V. Remember that I am driving alone 60-80% of the time.

    Next stop would be the 2014 Toyota Vios. I haven't thoroughly gathered enough information about this vehicle yet but one thing I know is that a lot of taxi franchise opt to use this brand of vehicle most probably due to its durability/reliability. Its fuel efficiency has decreased due to its increase in body weight as compared to the old models and it uses the same engine. I am not sure if the 1.5 engine displacement variant is more reliable or more fuel efficient than the 1.3 variant and whether or not the 1.3 is underpowered or not.

    Comparing the 2014 Toyota Corolla Altis and the 2014 Toyota Vios:
    There is a very small price difference between the 1.5G Toyota Vios manual/automatic transmission variant and the 1.6G/V Toyota Corolla Altis manual/automatic transmission variant.
    1. 1.5G Vios over the 1.6G/V Corolla Altis
    a. Leather seats vs Fabric seats
    b. Head unit easier to change (To 7-8" Touchscreen/DVD Player since it is not integrated with the dashboard)
    2. 1.6G/V Corolla Altis over the 1.5G Vios
    a. New CVT of the Corolla over the old 4speedAT of the vios (Not sure if new CVT is more reliable than old 4-speedAT / 6-speed manual transmission over the 5-speed manual transmission of the vios
    Would it be better to get the Compact Corolla Altis or the Sub-compact Vios?

    Another thing that we should give importance is the quality of services done by its CASA(Original dealer). I am from Davao and I wonder which CASA here provides the best services. The quality of CASA's services would has a major contribution to the vehicles reliability. Another factor would also be the availability of spare parts. Toyota is known to have sufficient availability of spare parts especially with the Vios since the majority of taxis here are Vioses.

    One issue I would like to point it is how we could know if the vehicle we are buying is CBU Japan or not. All I know is that the majority toyotas sold here in the Philippines are either made in Thailand or here in the Philippines. I wonder how we could manage to buy a CBU Japan 2014 Toyota/Mazda/Honda/Isuzu/Mitsubishi instead ones that are made in other countries. CBU Japan built vehicles are a lot more reliable than the ones made in other countries.

    This is an only temporary conclusion. I still haven't thoroughly researched yet on the other vehicles. Any input or arguments from you guys who are reading this are appreciated.

  11. Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    1,557
    #11
    *solidsnake4747:

    My take on this is you will never know how reliable a car brand or model is until you have owned one. We can input all the vehicles that we have driven and owned here and share our experiences, but remember, it doesn't mean that you will have the same story.

    Just look at one thread of a car brand here, same vehicles but different problems.

    It doesn't mean that if we both have a (car brand and model), it means that they will end up with the same fate considering you said 10 years. Maybe yours would be more problematic than mine or vice versa. Maybe in 3 yrs time I am still loving my car and you are cursing yours and vice versa.

    We can only give you an idea but we will never know what will happen.

    There are a lot of variables that you should factor such as traffic, road condition, location and most especially the driver and owner.

    We can both have (car brand and model) but I am always using it in the city then yours is used mostly in an area where fuel quality is questionable and roads are filled with potholes, for sure the wear and tear of parts in your vehicle will be much faster than mine.

    My personal example is our 1991 Toyota Corolla (already sold) and 2001 Honda Civic. Fast forward both vehicles to 10 years. The Corolla, I just hated that vehicle already in 2001. It kept on bogging down, overheating and so many different problems. I wouldn't even bring it somewhere far like Tagaytay coz it will overheat. Then we already sold it with I think 148k kms in the odometer. The Civic, it is still good until now and close to 200k kms traveled, no engine overhaul and no transmission overhaul. Its heydays are gone but I still have the confidence to bring it to our province in La Union. When I talk about problems, the Civic is less problematic in the sense that when it gets fixed, it gets fixed. Unlike the Corolla, when one problem gets fixed, another one pops up and it goes in circles that made me think that the Toyota Gods were playing with me. Dang that car!hehe

    I agree that if you want a car that will give you a lesser headache, go with the ones that have lesser electronics especially in the engine. But it has a downside. It is less or way less refined, slower and if ever you have driven a vehicle with a better engine, you would start to think if you have made the right decision. Like from my example, the Corolla has lesser electronics so lesser parts to bog down, a lot of available parts, a lot of mechanics know how to repair it, blah blah blah as compared to the Civic, but from my experience, if I were to choose to drive a 91 Corolla and 01 Civic, I wouldn't even go near the Corolla and go straight to the Civic.

    Try to go to dealerships and look at the vehicles that they are repairing or servicing especially the ones that are perceived as durable and reliable, try to ask what are the problems. The Crosswind for example. I have seen a lot of Crosswinds being repaired/serviced in Isuzu Q. Ave when I used to go there before for PMS. Also in Isuzu Commonwealth. When I asked the SA, they said it's the injector, clutch, it's slow, it produces a lot of black smoke and so on. Those were some of the problems that the SA's told me before. Now if I based my decision on what I had observed, it would make me think that if I buy a vehicle like that, I might end up having the same problems as well. I thought they are durable? They are just same as any other vehicle that is newer. Their only upside is they have cheaper parts and maintenance. And those vehicles don't even look like 10 years old or older. Perhaps the same goes in other dealerships.

    All car brands have lemon units and you are very unlucky if among all the thousands of units that they are producing everyday, you will end up with one.

    Take note that if your vehicle is done in the dealership, it doesn't mean that it is always or will be more reliable in the long run. It only takes an "OJT" mechanic to f*ck up your vehicle and give you horror stories and experiences. Remember that you don't see what they are doing with your vehicle so they can steal every bolt, screw or even exchange parts there without you knowing it.

    I am not really sure what vehicle makes in your choices are Japan CBU but I know the Toyota Super Grandia is a Japan CBU. Maybe yes, maybe no that a Japan CBU is more reliable or better than a non Japan CBU unit coz as far as I know, their difference is the tax and if there is a difference in the features, it is very minimal.

    In buying a vehicle, yes it pays to read, research ask for pieces of advise and yes reliability and dependability should be the top priority. At the same time, choose the vehicle that you see yourself driving or being driven in too. It is hard to be in a vehicle or drive a vehicle that you only bought because you think that it is the only dependable and reliable vehicle in the market and when you see the vehicle that you really like, you always question yourself why didn't you buy that instead. What makes it even more difficult to swallow is 10 years after, ok pa din yung vehicle niya and mas pugak pugak pa ung sayo na akala mo 10 years ago ay reliable and durable.hehe

  12. Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Posts
    50
    #12
    That's damn good right Bro 👍!
    Quote Originally Posted by rna800 View Post
    *solidsnake4747:

    My take on this is you will never know how reliable a car brand or model is until you have owned one. We can input all the vehicles that we have driven and owned here and share our experiences, but remember, it doesn't mean that you will have the same story.

    Just look at one thread of a car brand here, same vehicles but different problems.

    It doesn't mean that if we both have a (car brand and model), it means that they will end up with the same fate considering you said 10 years. Maybe yours would be more problematic than mine or vice versa. Maybe in 3 yrs time I am still loving my car and you are cursing yours and vice versa.

    We can only give you an idea but we will never know what will happen.

    There are a lot of variables that you should factor such as traffic, road condition, location and most especially the driver and owner.

    We can both have (car brand and model) but I am always using it in the city then yours is used mostly in an area where fuel quality is questionable and roads are filled with potholes, for sure the wear and tear of parts in your vehicle will be much faster than mine.

    My personal example is our 1991 Toyota Corolla (already sold) and 2001 Honda Civic. Fast forward both vehicles to 10 years. The Corolla, I just hated that vehicle already in 2001. It kept on bogging down, overheating and so many different problems. I wouldn't even bring it somewhere far like Tagaytay coz it will overheat. Then we already sold it with I think 148k kms in the odometer. The Civic, it is still good until now and close to 200k kms traveled, no engine overhaul and no transmission overhaul. Its heydays are gone but I still have the confidence to bring it to our province in La Union. When I talk about problems, the Civic is less problematic in the sense that when it gets fixed, it gets fixed. Unlike the Corolla, when one problem gets fixed, another one pops up and it goes in circles that made me think that the Toyota Gods were playing with me. Dang that car!hehe

    I agree that if you want a car that will give you a lesser headache, go with the ones that have lesser electronics especially in the engine. But it has a downside. It is less or way less refined, slower and if ever you have driven a vehicle with a better engine, you would start to think if you have made the right decision. Like from my example, the Corolla has lesser electronics so lesser parts to bog down, a lot of available parts, a lot of mechanics know how to repair it, blah blah blah as compared to the Civic, but from my experience, if I were to choose to drive a 91 Corolla and 01 Civic, I wouldn't even go near the Corolla and go straight to the Civic.

    Try to go to dealerships and look at the vehicles that they are repairing or servicing especially the ones that are perceived as durable and reliable, try to ask what are the problems. The Crosswind for example. I have seen a lot of Crosswinds being repaired/serviced in Isuzu Q. Ave when I used to go there before for PMS. Also in Isuzu Commonwealth. When I asked the SA, they said it's the injector, clutch, it's slow, it produces a lot of black smoke and so on. Those were some of the problems that the SA's told me before. Now if I based my decision on what I had observed, it would make me think that if I buy a vehicle like that, I might end up having the same problems as well. I thought they are durable? They are just same as any other vehicle that is newer. Their only upside is they have cheaper parts and maintenance. And those vehicles don't even look like 10 years old or older. Perhaps the same goes in other dealerships.

    All car brands have lemon units and you are very unlucky if among all the thousands of units that they are producing everyday, you will end up with one.

    Take note that if your vehicle is done in the dealership, it doesn't mean that it is always or will be more reliable in the long run. It only takes an "OJT" mechanic to f*ck up your vehicle and give you horror stories and experiences. Remember that you don't see what they are doing with your vehicle so they can steal every bolt, screw or even exchange parts there without you knowing it.

    I am not really sure what vehicle makes in your choices are Japan CBU but I know the Toyota Super Grandia is a Japan CBU. Maybe yes, maybe no that a Japan CBU is more reliable or better than a non Japan CBU unit coz as far as I know, their difference is the tax and if there is a difference in the features, it is very minimal.

    In buying a vehicle, yes it pays to read, research ask for pieces of advise and yes reliability and dependability should be the top priority. At the same time, choose the vehicle that you see yourself driving or being driven in too. It is hard to be in a vehicle or drive a vehicle that you only bought because you think that it is the only dependable and reliable vehicle in the market and when you see the vehicle that you really like, you always question yourself why didn't you buy that instead. What makes it even more difficult to swallow is 10 years after, ok pa din yung vehicle niya and mas pugak pugak pa ung sayo na akala mo 10 years ago ay reliable and durable.hehe

  13. Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,756
    #13
    Quote Originally Posted by solidsnake4747 View Post
    UPDATE



    Questions and Answers:
    1. "san ka ba mag base ng reliability? pwede kasi na kaya hindi nasisira kasi bihira gamitin. pwede naman na madalas masira kasi bugbog naman sa gamit?" - Hindi siya bihira gamitin, hindi rin siya bug-bug sa pag-gamit. It is somewhere in between where I would drive it every day pero di naman bugbugin ng todo. Average distance would be 6-8km per trip (Point A to Point B and then turning off the engine and leaving the car for several hours before going to another trip again). Average distance per day would be 32km - 40km.

    For me, yung brand ay part lang ng reliability na hinahanap mo TS.

    Yung isang element e yung driver o yung gumagamit, idagdag mo na yung availability ng parts sa market.

    Kung nakaka-intindi yung driver sa mechanics ng isang sasakyan, makakatulong yung para tumagal o maging reliable yung car. Yung common sa market na car ay makakatulong para mas tumagal na magamit yung car.

    Bottomline, mojority of the car exist on our road is a plus (dun sa level ng car na gusto mo). Knowledge of the driver who will use the car. lastly, availability of the parts.


    Sample tungkol sa isang pyesa ng car;
    a. nagpalit ng brake pad at 20k-km, driver/owner 1. -- ginamit na uli pag labas sa casa
    b. nagpalit ng brake pad at 30k-km, driver/owner 2. -- na-tengga kasi namahalan dahil sumabay pa sa change oil.
    ginamit na lang yung isang sasakyan sa ngayon habang naghahanap ng mas murang set ng brake pad.

    driver 1 - kamas-kamas mag-brake kaya 20k-km pa lang palit na ng brake pad
    driver 2 - kuripot gumastos pero inabot ng 30k-km yung brake pad nya bago magpalit.

    Note: 47k-km plus na yung brake pad ko pero hindi pa napapalitan.

  14. Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    2,836
    #14
    TS: are you going to buy a car or are you going to use us as a part of your case study? Dang.



    Posted via Tsikot Mobile App

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What is the top 2 most reliable brand new cars(2014-2015) here in the Philippines?