Nissan Kicks VE or Honda HR-V S

**carxynogen** · October 17th, 2022 10:46 AM

Originally Posted by dr. d

what about,
yung buong kotse ang trade-in program.

tapos,
fix up the entire car, then re-sell it at the re-manufactured car program.

Kung sa car trade-in doc, always tagilid seller (at big loss) sa system na yan.
Mas OK if battery trade-in, at least the percentage of loss is di gaano kalaki vs the percentage of the loss sa car's value.

**dr. d** · October 17th, 2022 10:49 AM

Originally Posted by carxynogen

Kung sa car trade-in doc, always tagilid seller (at big loss) sa system na yan.
Mas OK if battery trade-in, at least the percentage of loss is di gaano kalaki vs the percentage of the loss sa car's value.

that may be,
but it gives the buyer a more assuring buy.

i have a feeling,
remanufacturing will be a common thing when EVs become the norm,
what with new batteries costing that much, compared to the rest of the (used) car.

**cityfolk** · October 17th, 2022 11:09 AM

Originally Posted by carxynogen

Also naisip ko lang, parang may problem system ng e-power.
One of the factors that will speed up degradation of the battery is the frequent charging.
In case of e-power, parang nangyari is frequent charging ginagawa while driving.
If ganito scenario, I think every year, malaki degradation ng efficiency ng battery.

Ang problema sa lithium battery ay yung frequent FULL charging. Kapag hindi mo sinasagad na fully charged ang lithium battery ay maliit lang ang wear. Industry knowledge na yan at malamang accounted for ng battery management system. Yung Tesla for daily driving hanggang 80% charge lang although may option na sagarin to 100% kung planong mag road trip.

**Stigg ma** · October 17th, 2022 11:38 AM

Originally Posted by carxynogen

So para ka na ring nag replace ng buong CVT transmission module if that is the price of battery (300k).
I assume after 10 yrs ang need talaga na mag replace ng battery.
Eto yung deal breaker eh, after that time, much better to buy a new vehicle nalang.
Sana meron silang program to help buyer save more by trading their old battery to new one.

Hirap i benta yan sa second hand market if the cost ng battery alone without labor is 300k.

after 10 years kaya eh same battery tech pa din meron tayo, malamang hindi na 300k ang price ng battery dahil sa inflation... at yung value ng sasakyan after 10 years eh 1,209,000 - 10% each year sa depreciation... parang ka presyo ng batt yung depreciated value ng sasakyan

**viper888** · October 17th, 2022 11:53 AM

Im sure there will be "gray market" battery importers by then especially if it becomes popular

For example, you can buy a Lexus Hybrid battery For 1-2k USD

**17Sphynx17** · October 17th, 2022 01:40 PM

Originally Posted by cityfolk

Ang problema sa lithium battery ay yung frequent FULL charging. Kapag hindi mo sinasagad na fully charged ang lithium battery ay maliit lang ang wear. Industry knowledge na yan at malamang accounted for ng battery management system. Yung Tesla for daily driving hanggang 80% charge lang although may option na sagarin to 100% kung planong mag road trip.

As has been told by my friend in his Kicks, and I've been posting his updates to me in the specific Kicks thread here in the forums.

Battery doesn't charge to full. If around 40kph speeds, it only charges 2 out of the 4 maximum bars of battery capacity. At 60kph (our minimum highway speed), it will charge to 3 to 3.5 bars out of 4 per his experience with his Kicks.

If you do brute force it to charge to full, regen braking will be low/limited. The manual states this as fact.

You can let the car decide on how to charge the battery the "best" way to preserve its health. The only thing that you need to be mindful of is the destination/end point where you will shut off the car. Since the car does not know the end point of the trip, it can't decide how to charge the batteries by the end.

Case in point, during one trip where I rode with my friend, from his previous trip. he left the Kicks with 1 out of 4 bars, maybe even slightly lower. On "start", the engine was "cold", but it needed to charge the battery, so you could really hear the engine revving/straining to warm up and charge, switching back and forth (you can see whether the engine is simply "running" to warm up or charging the battery at any given time via the display on the dash).

So during a cold start and you are requiring the Kicks to quickly recharge the battery to prevent draining it to dangerous levels, you are not "charging" efficiently. Something to keep in mind.

Assuming there was sufficient charge to "start" the trip and not have the 1.2L engine immediately charge while it is still cold, during the initial part of the trip, it will switch and/on for short intervals/bursts (no battery charging is done during the cycling). Either for recharging brake boost pressure or something else. Manual has guidance on scenarios the engine will run, even if it is not charging the battery.

But, overall, from observation, the Kicks is not designed to fully charge itself at any given time/speed, unless driver/operator initiated. If there is a "scenario" where it does automatically fully charge the batteries, friend hasn't reported anything in that regard. So, it would be helpful if there are other owners who have updates to that effect as to when it "triggers".

**rico_yan** · October 18th, 2022 03:08 AM

I've been driving a Kicks VE (mid-variant) for more than a month now. As far as driving impression is concerned, I pretty much agree with this review from autoindustriya

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PHuSI0UO8_Y

For about a week or two, I tinkered with its features and drive modes to get myself familiarized. I also monitored its fuel consumption and charging habits. I averaged 20 km/liter on my trip from QC to Majayjay, Laguna (using the onboard computer). And 22 km/liter from QC to Dona Remedios Trinidad, Bulacan. Both trips had some inclines (albeit not steep as Baguio) and I drove between 90-110 kph on highway and slightly above average speed on provincial roads. For comparison, my average FC is 11 km/liter on a 2012 Hyundai Santa Fe CRDI 4x2.

After a while, I found it too cumbersome to think about these things. Nowadays, I just let the car be. My default mode is set at Drive + Sport, where I enjoy it most. The response is quicker and the regenerative braking is not too jerky for me. I find driving on city traffic much easier using the regen braking (either on Sport or Eco modes), because there's lesser need to step on the brakes. On a long highway stretch, I sometimes switch to normal Drive mode, where it behaves like a traditional automatic car.

For those who are on the fence, go to your nearest Nissan dealership for a test drive. As for me, I thought hard about the pros/cons and also did my math. But I found it a hoot to drive so I decided to enjoy it now and worry about the cons later.