Needed, (erm) wanted the bluetooth functionality eh. The cheapest 1DIN is around 3-4k but no bluetooth.
The cheapest 2DIN with that functionality I saw was around 15k na.
It is also possible na super layo presyo ng store sa banawe yesterday, or that I bought too high a model for my needs.
^ cheapest na 2din with BT is nasa 11k(or less) - 265BT. Baka sir DEH-4650 yung nabili mo. Eto ata yung pinakamahal na 1Din ng Pioneer - olx marked it around 7k.
Sayang haha. I saw the 4650bt on the pioneer webpage pero wala sa banawe at least the shops where i checked. Looks like i got a unit too high end for my needs. Well okay lang i guess, andito na rin haha. Its really a 9650bt and not the 4650
Don't worry Luchi, those are still considered to be part of Pioneer's "mainstream" product lineup.
For people out there who wants to know how wallet-bleeding happy car audio is if you want the best, I might as well give you a trivia
The most expensive 1DIN head unit Pioneer has is their ODR-series of head units. Namely, these is the RS-D7XII head unit and the RS-P99X processor. This is a "package" together and competes with Alpine's F#1 Status line of extremely expensive source units.
How expensive? A combination of those two will set you back around $5,000.. or Php225,000 with a Php45:$1 conversion rate.
http://pioneer.jp/carrozzeria/car_av...ineup/rs-d7x3/
http://pioneer.jp/carrozzeria/car_av...ria_x/rs-p99x/
It wasn't ever released locally so you need to import them. In the EU and US, it's known as the ODR (Optical Digital Reference), in the JP it's known as the Carrozzeria.
Last edited by jhnkvn; December 10th, 2014 at 01:19 AM.
mga master
may question lang ako pwed bang gamitin as sub amplifier yung x12 mrv-1507 4channel 3600watts nabili ko sa raon yung kulay red and my sub is Infinity 1252w Reference Series 12" subwoofer with dual 4-ohm voice coils dalawa cya l ported ung box.
gusto ko sana gamitin yung x12 to power the infinity * 2ohms kaya ba nang x12 mrv-1507 * 2ohms load stable kaya?
reply naman po kayo sa mga nakakagamit na nang x12 pm would be great
sana may magandang advice thanks and more power to tsikot!
Thanks sa reply bossing acgq
so di pala stable 2*ohm yung x12 kasi sabi dun 2ohms stable daw at naka lagay din sa boxanu pala ibig sabihin nung 2*ohms stable na nka lagay sa box boss?
boss eh yung ch1 and 2 pwed ko rin e kabit dun? bali ag mangyayari 1st vc sa ch1, 2nd vc ch2 sa isang sub din sa pangalawang sub 1st vc ch3, 2nd vc ch4 tama po ba?
Sir thanks for your feedback on the PDX-V9.
Spec says Per channel into 2 ohms: 100W RMS x 4 + 500W RMS (2-ohm, 14.4V <1%THD+N).
Since the FX's midbass isn't strong, I'm eyeing another midbass woofer that is rated 3ohms impedance 100W RMS (200W max).
Would I run into heat issues?
Sorry, I became worried on the recent posts.
Boss tanung lang, need pa ba ng e-crossover kahit may built-in na amplifier ko, dako satisfied sa quality ng audio set up ko, im using 2din AVM, sub jbl-s12 at sa front door naman GT5-502 plus tweeter GTO18T and stock speaker naman sa likod. Im using AM1850d lightning lab at x12 ampli naman sa speakers. D ako satisfied sa quality. Hindi kaya sa head unit problema ko, any suggestion? Tia
*roblio
Regarding the X12 mrv-1507 4channel 3600watts, please.. that's quite a generic V12 amplifier (bootlegs in fact of the famous Alpine V12) and it's usually used for powering of separates - not power-hungry subwoofers. Don't buy the 3600W, it does not even produce half of that value. It's doing something like 60W * 4 ohms on each channel.
Isipin mo muna how you'll wire the subwoofer up. Since meron ka dalawang dual-VC subwoofers you have quite a lot of options naman. But to answer your question, kaya ba ng MRV ang 2-ohm load stable? The answer is... no. Most budget amplifiers aren't built that well sa power supply section nila to supply you 2-ohms on bridged mode. If you're doing a mono or 2-channel amplifier, baka pwede pa. But for 4-channels? Nah, they're just 4ohm stable bridged.
Stable on 2-ohms? Probably on a per-channel basis yan. Ex. 60Wx4 * 4ohms, 90Wx4 * 2ohms. But please, don't believe the box. Yun 3600W palang nga linoloko ka na pano pa yun ibang specifications.
Your best bet? Just use one of the voice coils - tutunong parin naman yan and use it on a bridged 4-channel amplifier.
*acgq
Not all amplifiers are like that. It will depend sa power supply section ng amplifiers. More expensive amplifiers are often over-built so they are stable even under heavy load. For example, my Audison VRX amplifier is stable at 1 ohm on a per channel basis while stable at 2 ohms on bridge.
*hypnos
Regarding the FX's midbass, don't worry about it. It's strong enough for 98% of the people who run it. Even if you run sub-less and try to squeeze every bit of excursion sa midbass, kaya parin niya. However, just don't expect outside listening. But for in-car listening? It's more than enough. Don't let your midbass run lower than 50hz, it isn't worth it. Get a subwoofer if you plan to go that low.
For the midbass, how much power it will need will depend on your listening levels. However, I don't believe bitin ang mga tao even with 70W of power. 100W is more than enough.
Oh and heat is the least of your worries. The PDX series are Class D amplifiers and are very efficient - heat issues are practically nonexistent.
*metal_mulisha01
Pano mo masasabi na "hindi ka satisfied sa quality?"
From my point, I think isang problem mo dyan is that you're using coaxial drivers on your doors and a tweeter up front. Yun ngyayari kasi dyan is it's confusing. First is that you hear high-pitched sounds from your dash (assuming nasa dash yun tweet) at nasa paa mo (where most midbass drivers are). Second is that paminsan magkakaroon yan ng phasing problems due to overlapping sound waves. So stick with a separate component speaker muna - midbass at doors and a tweeter on top.
For the others, kaya mo yan idaan sa good installation and tuning.
Thanks a lot for the response sir jhnkvn. I am learning a lot from your posts. You even took the time to respond to everyone's inquries complete with details.![]()
Hard to say. Optimistic yes, however.. it'll depend on how you'll measure it. I think 60W of RMS power is probable at 14.4V. However, whether it's under 1% THD is another matter altogether
Many would peg it from 40-60W depending on voltage really. But the jump of 20W isn't really that much overhead.
Yup, I am guessing, if CEA ratings would apply, it is going to be rated at 20x4 to 30x4 *14.4v, since 10A x 14.4v = 144w. Probably that's the bridge mode total na.
Probably around 20W. The thing with 30W is that... if you also factor amplifier efficiency and it's 70% efficient, a 120W (30Wx4) draw will present an actual load of 170W which will blow the fuse.
However, mga ibang fuse sa ganyan are simply defectiveso who knows..
Merry Christmas to all![]()
I am still in the planning stages of my SQ build, and I am currently deciding on two component sets that fit my budget. The first would be a Focal 165F which was my original choice, having auditioned numerous focal builds already. However, the second choice I have is a Hertz HSK 165 which also comes highly recommended. I haven't auditioned a Hertz system before so I can't really compare.
Can anyone compare the two, or perhaps recommend one over the other? I understand that SQ is very subjective, but I am just curious how these two seps are alike/different.
Thanks in advance![]()