audio set-up for beginners [continued]

[jhnkvn]

(Reposting my post sa KAC)

Flux isn't really known for their amplifiers since they started out with speakers. Seeing their website gives me two things I want to note. One is that the amplifier design is kinda ugly (no offense) and seems quite generic. If this is budget-priced, that would be acceptable naman. For the power delivery, seems normal naman. I don't like it when firms do not state with voltage they use so a fairer estimate would be power being around 70Wx4 at 4ohms.

I don't really think you'll notice much changes in amplifier selection. Speaker selection affects your overall listening profile by a huge huge margin.

[sientobente]

sabi nila mickeys, flux is a clean neutral sounding amp. they also highly recommend these vs other brands they carry around the same price. i haven't auditioned one, but i like their seps. ;)

[hypnos]

Good Day Chaps, I need your inputs on my setup. I am after imaging and soundstage. Car is a focus hatch. Being the only passenger/driver, I have grown tired of the bland stock audio setup. I am currently looking into the following components: 80prs (acquired), 10tw3 (acquired), ps 165 fx (still looking for a good price), then front door deadening (inner and outer walls).

Given that I would not be upgrading my battery/alternator, which amp would suffice my need? Do I need one? Can I use a pdx-v9 on my stock battery/alternator and not run into any problems if I am not an outrageously loud listener? Thanks to anyone who can chip in. :thankyou: Happy listening. Cheers!

[sientobente]

Good Day Chaps, I need your inputs on my setup. I am after imaging and soundstage. Car is a focus hatch. Being the only passenger/driver, I have grown tired of the bland stock audio setup. I am currently looking into the following components: 80prs (acquired), 10tw3 (acquired), ps 165 fx (still looking for a good price), then front door deadening (inner and outer walls).

Given that I would not be upgrading my battery/alternator, which amp would suffice my need? Do I need one? Can I use a pdx-v9 on my stock battery/alternator and not run into any problems if I am not an outrageously loud listener? Thanks to anyone who can chip in. :thankyou: Happy listening. Cheers!

Nice selection of gears! I'm using the 165fx, and the price is pretty much standard among all car audio shops. Some though charge for the installation, but some like my car audio installer Simple Sound will install it for free when you get the set from him. Since you have an HU that should be full-active capable, take advantage of it and use a 4ch amp(seps) and a mono amp(subs). Then use the time alignment feature of the HU to remove localization and improve the soundstage.

These new flax focals sound really different from the past. It now runs on the neutral to warm side. It also has a more pronounced midbass, even better than my previous K2Ps. Your stock alternator should also be fine since you won't really use power hungry subs.

[hypnos]

Nice selection of gears! I'm using the 165fx, and the price is pretty much standard among all car audio shops. Some though charge for the installation, but some like my car audio installer Simple Sound will install it for free when you get the set from him. Since you have an HU that should be full-active capable, take advantage of it and use a 4ch amp(seps) and a mono amp(subs). Then use the time alignment feature of the HU to remove localization and improve the soundstage.

These new flax focals sound really different from the past. It now runs on the neutral to warm side. It also has a more pronounced midbass, even better than my previous K2Ps. Your stock alternator should also be fine since you won't really use power hungry subs.

Thanks for the immediate response mate. I really appreciate it. Yep the performance of 165 fx is really otherwordly at its price. Any particular amp that you could point me to? Im not really looking for anything fancy, anything not power hungry, compact and would do the job. I am thinking of placing it under the driver seat. Is there such an amp that could drive both the seps and sub?

[sientobente]

Try to look for a 5-channel Class D amp. It should be more compact than it's class AB counterparts and is more efficient. The Phoenix Gold SD800.5 is one of them.

[jhnkvn]

Good Day Chaps, I need your inputs on my setup. I am after imaging and soundstage. Car is a focus hatch. Being the only passenger/driver, I have grown tired of the bland stock audio setup. I am currently looking into the following components: 80prs (acquired), 10tw3 (acquired), ps 165 fx (still looking for a good price), then front door deadening (inner and outer walls).

Given that I would not be upgrading my battery/alternator, which amp would suffice my need? Do I need one? Can I use a pdx-v9 on my stock battery/alternator and not run into any problems if I am not an outrageously loud listener? Thanks to anyone who can chip in. :thankyou: Happy listening. Cheers!

Do you need an amplifier?
Yes. While you can power your front components with the head unit, you can't with your subwoofer.

Can I use a pdx-v9 on my stock battery/alternator and not run into any problems if I am not an outrageously loud listener?
Yes. In fact, I highly recommend the Alpine PDX-V9 over any other amplifier locally at its price region. It's pricey locally so it would be best if you can parallel import one. If you want something better, the JL HD900/5 is expensive but it's an end-all amplifier. I actually wouldn't mind swapping amplifiers if I see one used and in need of a swap.

*Focal FX
It isn't really otherworldly. It's just good engineering which is why you pay for Focal. But for the price, there's actually a lot of others who is better on paper-specifications. The midbass isn't strong, it's just the highs are tamed thus the midbass is perceived as better

[hypnos]

Thanks sientobente. I will look for SD800.5's specs.

jhnkvn the HD900/5's specs seems better but its a bit out of my budget. Perhaps if there is a cheaper alternative for the 2-way seps, the savings could offset for the amp's cost.

Neverthess, your recommendations are highly considered. Thanks again.

[jhnkvn]

PG's SD line of amplifiers is a hit and miss before due to noise issues. While they have rectified this problem it's best to still have a warranty when going for those.

[hypnos]

Do you need an amplifier?
Yes. While you can power your front components with the head unit, you can't with your subwoofer.

Can I use a pdx-v9 on my stock battery/alternator and not run into any problems if I am not an outrageously loud listener?
Yes. In fact, I highly recommend the Alpine PDX-V9 over any other amplifier locally at its price region. It's pricey locally so it would be best if you can parallel import one. If you want something better, the JL HD900/5 is expensive but it's an end-all amplifier. I actually wouldn't mind swapping amplifiers if I see one used and in need of a swap.

*Focal FX
It isn't really otherworldly. It's just good engineering which is why you pay for Focal. But for the price, there's actually a lot of others who is better on paper-specifications. The midbass isn't strong, it's just the highs are tamed thus the midbass is perceived as better

Sir thanks for your feedback on the PDX-V9.
Spec says Per channel into 2 ohms: 100W RMS x 4 + 500W RMS (2-ohm, 14.4V <1%THD+N).
Since the FX's midbass isn't strong, I'm eyeing another midbass woofer that is rated 3ohms impedance 100W RMS (200W max).
Would I run into heat issues?
Sorry, I became worried on the recent posts.

[metal_mulisha01]

Boss tanung lang, need pa ba ng e-crossover kahit may built-in na amplifier ko, dako satisfied sa quality ng audio set up ko, im using 2din AVM, sub jbl-s12 at sa front door naman GT5-502 plus tweeter GTO18T and stock speaker naman sa likod. Im using AM1850d lightning lab at x12 ampli naman sa speakers. D ako satisfied sa quality. Hindi kaya sa head unit problema ko, any suggestion? Tia

[jhnkvn]

*roblio
Regarding the X12 mrv-1507 4channel 3600watts, please.. that's quite a generic V12 amplifier (bootlegs in fact of the famous Alpine V12) and it's usually used for powering of separates - not power-hungry subwoofers. Don't buy the 3600W, it does not even produce half of that value. It's doing something like 60W * 4 ohms on each channel.

Isipin mo muna how you'll wire the subwoofer up. Since meron ka dalawang dual-VC subwoofers you have quite a lot of options naman. But to answer your question, kaya ba ng MRV ang 2-ohm load stable? The answer is... no. Most budget amplifiers aren't built that well sa power supply section nila to supply you 2-ohms on bridged mode. If you're doing a mono or 2-channel amplifier, baka pwede pa. But for 4-channels? Nah, they're just 4ohm stable bridged.

Stable on 2-ohms? Probably on a per-channel basis yan. Ex. 60Wx4 * 4ohms, 90Wx4 * 2ohms. But please, don't believe the box. Yun 3600W palang nga linoloko ka na pano pa yun ibang specifications.

Your best bet? Just use one of the voice coils - tutunong parin naman yan and use it on a bridged 4-channel amplifier.

*acgq
Not all amplifiers are like that. It will depend sa power supply section ng amplifiers. More expensive amplifiers are often over-built so they are stable even under heavy load. For example, my Audison VRX amplifier is stable at 1 ohm on a per channel basis while stable at 2 ohms on bridge.

*hypnos
Regarding the FX's midbass, don't worry about it. It's strong enough for 98% of the people who run it. Even if you run sub-less and try to squeeze every bit of excursion sa midbass, kaya parin niya. However, just don't expect outside listening. But for in-car listening? It's more than enough. Don't let your midbass run lower than 50hz, it isn't worth it. Get a subwoofer if you plan to go that low.

For the midbass, how much power it will need will depend on your listening levels. However, I don't believe bitin ang mga tao even with 70W of power. 100W is more than enough.

Oh and heat is the least of your worries. The PDX series are Class D amplifiers and are very efficient - heat issues are practically nonexistent.

*metal_mulisha01
Pano mo masasabi na "hindi ka satisfied sa quality?"

From my point, I think isang problem mo dyan is that you're using coaxial drivers on your doors and a tweeter up front. Yun ngyayari kasi dyan is it's confusing. First is that you hear high-pitched sounds from your dash (assuming nasa dash yun tweet) at nasa paa mo (where most midbass drivers are). Second is that paminsan magkakaroon yan ng phasing problems due to overlapping sound waves. So stick with a separate component speaker muna - midbass at doors and a tweeter on top.

For the others, kaya mo yan idaan sa good installation and tuning.