"Tamang OC lang" - a newbie's guide to car appearance maintenance

[scharnhorst]

Tamang OC lang - a newbie's guide to car appearance maintenance

FOREWORD.

First of all, I'd like to thank sir Edwin, ma'am madkatz and all the tsikoteers at the Detailing thread for sharing their knowledge and experiences about detailing. I got most of my methods based on their inputs, and this would never be possible without them.

Like most of us, I came from using old t-shirts and whatever cloth available to clean our rides. I saw rain as a blessing since I could just wipe it down afterwards to clean it. Our Ranger attests to almost ten years of that. Now I am horrified whenever I see Bimmers and Mercs running around practicaly swimming in swirl marks.

This is not an end-all, be-all comprehensive guide to auto detailing, but rather a guide to a couple of common car care procedures for both enthusiasts and newbies.

I am also not in any way affiliated with Microtex, Mother's, Optimum, Collinite, Micromagic, Joy, or Perla.

Any comments or suggestions to improve this would be welcome!

WASHING:

Important concepts:
1) Clearcoat - automobile paint has a protective layer of non-pigmented resin over it. This is the clearcoat.
This is the surface that gets scratched during improper washing or correction.
Any kind of abrasive, such as rubbing compounds, and polishes will erode the clearcoat.
An intact clearcoat gives an "orange-peel" like appearance
Products that are "clear-coat safe" are non-abrasive
2) Swirl marks - these are small scratches that are not very apparent because they are usually found superficially. They can be seen using LED lights or Xenon lamps.
A typical black car during nighttime, when shined with headlights, will reveal these swirl marks.
3) Water marks - these are left by evaporating water. they may, or may not be superficial. Superficial marks, such as mineral deposits can be removed by claying or dissolution with an acid.

*note: don't wear watches, rings, belt buckles, or steel-buttoned shorts while washing or waxing. these can scratch and ding the surface
*note: don't wash in an open area on a hot day. it'll be a watermark farm.

Must needs:
1)at least 2 buckets
Q: why 2 buckets?
A: one will be used for dissolving the shampoo in, the other will be a rinsing bucket.
2)car shampoo (Microtex Shampoo ~P150)
Q: why a car shampoo and not dishwashing liquid or powdered detergent?
A: dishwashing liquids, such as joy, are grease strippers, and the waxes that protect a car's paint is made up of oils. Using dishwashing liquids will strip these waxes. Powder detergents will leave unsightly streaks when they dry.
Q: why do I need shampoo at all? diba okay na water+chamois or water+washmitt?
A: water cannot lubricate the surface enough to prevent microscratches from occuring. a typical "driver-maintained" car (water+chamois) is guaranteed to have a ton of swirl marks.
3)microfiber washmitt (Microtex - ~P320, ACE - ~P90)
Q: why a washmitt and not a sponge?
A: a microfiber washmitt will pick up the dirt from the surface. A sponge will drag dirt across the surface, causing micro-scratches.
Q: are the cheap microfiber washmitts from ACE good for this?
A: they're okay for the job, but if you get these single-sided washmitts, you will need two of them. In comparison, a double sided washmitt can be flipped, so that the other side can be used for the bottom half of the vehicle
4)microfiber chamois (Microtex chamois: P250) or a microfiber drying cloth (Microtex Elite: P600-900, depending where, Water Magnet)
Q: why non-rubber?
A: like a sponge, rubber chamois will drag any residual dirt across the surface, causing microscratches. a microfiber chamois will pick them up.
*Rubber chamois can also strip wax.
Q: aren't microfiber chamois less effective than rubber ones?
A: microfiber chamois hold less water, and may take some time before "sucking up" water. They work more effectively when already damp (but not soaked)
*a microfiber drying cloth, such as the Microtex Elite is more capable than either kind of chamois (dries an SUV without needing a single squeeze) and will not scratch the surface (due to its wafer-like microfiber weave).
Q: what if I don't have a microfiber chamois or cloth?
A: "slapping" the car with a rubber chamois to dry it is safe for the clearcoat.
5)cheap microfiber cloth (i.e. the 3 for 88 pesos from micromagic)
Q:for?
A:drying the mags, the doorsills, the engine bay
6)sponge
Q:akala ko ba di kelangan ng sponge?
A:para sa wheel wells!

Others:
1)cheap microfiber washmitt for the mags. (i.e. the one available in ACE for less than 100)
Q: what if I don't have one?
A: a cheap microfiber (i.e. micromagic) will do
2)tire brush (Mr. Clean: P:250, Mothers: ~P200)
*note: the Mr. Clean brush can be used for the mags themselves
3)electric blower/leaf blower (900-1.5k in RAON, depending on the brand)
*note: this is for the crevices, crannies, door handles, and emblems to prevent formation of hard water deposits
Q:What if I don't have one?
A:you could manually blow at these areas with or without a straw, but be prepared to get light headed. Alternatively, you can just try to reach at these places with a microfiber cloth.
4)pressure washer
Q:are there any dangers to using pressure washers?
A: not really, but if the pressure is too strong, it can strip wax.

Procedure:
1)Prep the materials

~Microtex Washmitt, ACE washmitt, Microtex Chamois, Micromagic microfiber, Leaf Blower

2)Prep the buckets

Q: why three?
A: personal preference, I put a rinse bucket on each side of the car for easy access. Half a bucket each to conserve water.
Q: why is one red?
A: to prevent confusion, the red one is for the shampoo-containing water.

3)Prepare the shampoo.

Q: how do you know how much capfuls to use?
A: stir the mixture, then try to feel it between your fingers

if it is slippery, it's good to go. In a bucket of this size, I usually use three capfuls
Q: does it need to be bubbly?
A: no. lubricity (how slippery it is) is more important

4)Wet the car

if using a pressure washer, you can use it to clean the wheel wells.

[scharnhorst]

5)Cleaning the Body

i. dip the half-surface to be used onto the shampoo+water solution. No need to immerse the entire mitt. Just make sure the entire thing is damp before dipping it into the bucket


ii. wipe it across one panel. Let the washmitt's weight apply the pressure onto the surface.


iii. rinse the washmitt with the rinse bucket after one panel.

*Remember: Kusutin ang washmitt!

REPEAT i-iii for all the other panels. Yes. shampoo-panel-rinse-shampoo-panel-rinse-shampoo-panel.

[scharnhorst]

*REMEMBER: TOP to BOTTOM! That means: the hood, roof, and bootlid before everything else.


*Above the beltline


*NOTE: before proceeding to under the beltline, FLIP the washmitt if it's double sided, or use another one.

[scharnhorst]

6)Cleaning the Mags and wheelwells

i.Materials

~ACE washmitt, Mr. Clean tirebrush, sponge
*You will most probably still have shampoo+water mix leftover from cleaning the body. Otherwise, make another, smaller batch.

ii. Washmitt for the mags. Remember to clean in between the spokes.


iii. Tirebrush


iV. Sponge for the wheelwell plastics


Q:Why a sponge?
A:A brush will scratch the plastic parts of the wheelwells. But a brush is fine on the other areas.

*REMEMBER: shampoo-surface-rinse-shampoo still applies here. Expect the rinse water to turn pitch black by this time.

[scharnhorst]

7) Rinsing and Drying

i. spray off any residue.
Q:How do you know if the wax is still alive?
A:Beading occurs if there's still wax. It looks like this:

Otherwise it will look like this:


ii. flood the areas with smooth-flowing water from a hose. In waxed cars, this will significantly decrease the amount of water left on the surface


iii. Fold the (microfiber)chamois/drying cloth, and let its weight drag it across the surface for the horizontally-oriented panels

[scharnhorst]

iV. For the side-panels, Apply light pressure - enough only to press it lightly against the surface) whilst dragging it along

*NOTE: if it squeaks, check if the microfiber is dirty. Use another side if possible.

v. Dry the crevices, corners, lights, emblems, door handles, and any hard to reach areas with a blower, manual blowing, or a microfiber
*NOTE: make sure to sling the power cable on your shoulder, and that the extension cord outlet and plug are not touching the water.

*in this picture, I secured the junction between the blower plug and the extension cord outlet with electrical tape and let it dangle above the water.

vi.Dry the doorsills and mags and the engine hood underside with a cheap MF cloth.

[scharnhorst]

TIRES

Materials
1) Tireblack. Avoid Rain-harry and similar products, these cause brittling of the tire sidewalls, leading to burst tires
2) Sponge


Procedure:
1) Apply tireblack onto the sponge. In this case, I am using Microtex tireblack (~P250)


2) Squeeze sponge to distribute tireblack


3) Apply to tire


Repeat for all tires.

*note: you can use tireblack for the exterior plastic trim.



Last step: enjoy how it looks before it rains... again.

[scharnhorst]

OTHERS

Quick Detailers - there are 2 types: Cleaners and Boosters
-Cleaners are used to clean gunk, such as bird droppings and tree sap in a cinch.
-Boosters either improve the durability of the wax underneath it or improve the looks
a)Optimum No Rinse: Cleaner QD. Mixed with distilled water in different dilutions, depending on use
1:16 - Cleaning QD
1:32 - Rinseless Wash
1:64 - Clay lube
Q: Why distilled water?
A: ONR will precipitate any impurities in tap water, rendering the solution useless.
b)Microtex Nanosliq (P329): Booster QD: essentially a liquid wax. Fills swirls nicely, but is prone to streaking
c)Mother's FX Spray Wax (P495): liquid wax. Easier to buff than Nanosliq, but doesn't fill swirls as good.
d)Optimum Car Wax: A liquid wax/sealant. Easy to apply, no buffing required, provides great sheeting, and is more durable than most over the counter waxes. Looks good too.
e)Optimum Gloss Enhancer: As the name implies, it enhances the shine. Dust repellant, making it easier to dust off a car. No beading or sheeting however.
It is diluted in distilled water at a ratio of 1:3

*Note: the booster QDs are best applied after giving the wax some time to cure.
Q: How to apply a booster QD?
A: just spray it on a clean surface and then spread with a Microfiber towel. For best results, sweep the panel as you spray to maximize coverage.
Q: Do I need to buff the booster QD?
A: Depends. Mother's FX and Nanosliq require some buffing. Optimum Car wax and Optimum Gloss enhancer do not need any buffing


Cleaning your detailing equipment
a) Degreasers: This is needed to remove waxes, oils and dirt from your microfiber washmitt, cloths, and wax applicators. For general use, Joy dishwashing liquid is good enough.
b) Perla white: In order to maintain the tenderness of the microfiber cloths, they are washed with Perla White after degreasing.

Q: Can I use fabric softeners?
A: No. This will damage the microfibers.
Q: How do I dry them?
A: Let them air-dry. Do NOT dry them under the sun, as this will stiffen the microfibers. To aid in drying, they can be spun in a washing machine's spinner.

When to clean your car?
This depends on the weather conditions. During the rainy season, one might wash up to three times a week, or use cleaning QDs every day. During the summer, a single wash and wax session can go a long way - dust is simply dusted off with a duster.

When to wax your car?
Depends on the type of wax you're using. Most OTC waxes are gone after a rain or after the first wash. Collinite waxes have consistently been able to last at least one week in harsh Philippine conditions. In order to prolong the life of the wax, spray booster waxes can be used after washing the car.

Happy detailing!

SAMPLE MAINTENANCE REGIMEN
Weekend 1:
1)Apply Nanoglos or Mothers Step 2.
*Note: Step 2 does not require any curing time. Nanoglos requires 8 hours
2)Apply Collinite 476
3)Apply Nanosliq after 6 hours

Weekend 2:
Apply Nanosliq after washing. Note if the water still beads during rinsing.if it beads, the wax is still alive.

<it rains!>
Wash. Note if the wax is still beading the water
Apply Nanosliq after washing

Weekend 3:
Apply Nanosliq after washing if the wax is still beading. If not, you can elect to reapply Collinite.

Weekend 4:
Repeat Weekend 1's steps after claying (to follow.).

APPENDIX
Where to get products?
1) Microtex products are available at Blade outlets, at Handyman, Ace Hardware, and with sir Edwin.
2) Mother's products are available at Blade outlets or at their retailer at Mandaluyong.
3) Collinite products are available with sir Edwin or at Autobisyo.
4) Optimum products are available with sir Edwin.

Do you want to know more? Ask us at the Tsikot Detailing Thread:
http://tsikot.yehey.com/forums/showthread.php?t=74876

V1.0 uploaded on January 16, 2011.
-updated prices
V1.1. added cleaning stuff, segregated QD section
V1.2 added to tsikot

[Beney Andresio]

really helpful! thank you!

[j_c_1978]

mga brod,

any idea ano brand of sealant available sa local market? Thanks.

(di pa kasi lumalabas yung TW ice lock sealant ata dito sa pinas..)