Detailing Thread [For Newbies][ARCHIVED]

[madkatz]

*mau: yup you can use Mothers chrome polish for glasses, but of course specifically dedicated glass polishes are better as compared to this, but mother chrome polish can definitely outmatch any cheap OTC out there.

[madkatz]

*probpt: well as far as i know if you just apply Nano systematic care you don't need to cure it that long you should give it only about 1 to 2 hours, only the Long life sealant needs to be cured for a minimum of 12 hours but preferably 24 hours, there were some instances in my case that hazing could occur when cured 12 hours and below.

Next that would depend on which Collinite you would be using? 845? 476? 915? If you plan on layering these waxes, which is recommended since you haven't really applied a long lasting LSP like Long Life Sealant. Then layering waxes would be a nice way to go. Sadly 845 based on experience doesn't have that much difference when layered, only Collinites paste waxes have a significant advantage when layered which are 476 and 915.

With regards to your question, it would be always best to wash the car since you already drove it outside, why? because when you drive your car outside even if it still looks clean, dirt particles may already be lodged to the paint cause of the speed of the vehicle traveling and hitting dusts, this not only sits on the paint but in some cases takes more than QD to remove and since you would be waxing, pressure while waxing might dislodge these particles and cause swirls. Another reason to wash your car would be because of the oily films cars get during traffic.

One more thing is because if you use QD's, some QD's (not all) contains nourishing oils and polymers and this might cause a problem with the wax properly sticking/bonding on the paint.

When i layer waxes (not sealants) i always wait for 8 hours to fully cure, then i just use a duster or MF towel and then gently glide them over the paint to remove the dusts accumulated within those 8 hours before i put on another coating, the same can be said about the Nano systematic care, actually sometimes i just put on the NSC and then wait for 1 hour before i remove it and wait another hour or two to cure it and then i go directly to waxing already.

[Chikselog]

*madkatz
Ahh i see.. BTW, do you know how to remove bird drop etching on the paint? it kinda like ate through the clearcoat and it looks cracked or something. I'll post pics tomorrow. Damn it looks ugly

[madkatz]

*chickselog: you could try using some swirlX to buff out the top layer to make it less visible

[probpt]

*madkatz

I'll be using the Collinite 845 on top of the Carlack LLS (Sorry I forgot to mention that I used both the NSC and LLS).

I'll follow your advise regarding washing the car. Better to be safe than sorry, right? But if the car just sits in the garage between applications, going over the car with a cali duster or MF towel is enough.

BTW, I have the Megs Ultimate QD, will using that between applications cause the situation/problem you mentioned?

What would be a good monthly combo for the three products I am using (NSC, LLS, 845)? Is it even advisable to apply the LLS monthly or should it be quarterly?

Thanks!

[madkatz]

*probpt: yeah its better to wash if you drove it outside, but if its just sits on the garage dusting will do. oh yeah next time you use NSC you could immediately follow it up with LLS

As for the UQD, i would recommend against it since it does state that it does leave behind water repellent polymers and even requires about 24 hours to cure properly, i would recommend this after applying all LSP's

As for the combo, you could put on 845 every 2 to 4 weeks, and then LLS quarterly and then NSC every half year. 845 would be your primary layer since its the easiest to apply, then i would recommend you use LLS after claying quarterly just to make sure you add on that extra layer and then NSC bi-annually since this is a cleaner and technically it should remove what ever existing layer of LSP you have so when you use NSC basically you remove all those layered LLS. so you have to re-apply again

[Chikselog]

I need a BIG What can I do about this?

Just when you thought things can't get worse..Nabagsakan ng sampayan ang kotse GREAT!! JUST GREAT!

AND THE RESULTS:
Scratch on the Upper Side of the Rear Left door.



Dent (or whatever it's called) on the Rear Left Door.




Di na pantay yung shape ng door when you look at it in sideview. I'll try to post pics tomorrow, I was in school when this happened and it ruined my day BIG TIME. Pics were taken gabi na. Sorry for the crappy pics. I'm tired and gabi na ang hirap kumuha.

[madkatz]

*chickselog: oh dear, im sorry to hear that, as for the dent you could have Paintless Dent Repair done, that would cost your around 300 to 500 bucks, and if you're lucky like my friend he only had it done for 100 pesos. As for the first picture, buffing and polishing it would greatly help improve the appearance but im sure it won't be totally removed. BTW check ur inbox im sent you a PM regarding your swirls solution, im still not sure if my BF would agree helping in buffing your car but he does seem ok with the idea.

[rensom]

Di naman kailangan kung ano ano pang wax ang gagamitin ninyo.... its a waste of time and money.... Tamang linis at tamang wax lang na di na kailangan hanapin kung saan saan.....

Sa akin nakukuha ko kintab na ito sa murang wax lang......

[FasTrac]

found some sites to help you with your questions

http://www.lakecountrymfg.com/applicationguide/

then DL the pad application guide, you would notice that in the guide white pads are for polishes and black are for glazes, both blue and red fall in the same category and fall under polishes again so i guess it doesn't make that much difference, and the gold falls under pure waxes and sealants

and in here

http://www.pinnaclewax.com/lakecount...er-how-to.html

you would notice that the black red and blue all fall under one category which falls under final finishing so i guess its safe to say they really are pretty much the same, and as far as i know i haven't seen any final finishing or ultra fine finishing polishes available locally, and the only ones i have are Optimum polymers and Menzerna's which are all from the US. they didn't even classify gold in their page, so i guess gold is purely for applying waxes and sealants only and maybe buffing it to a high gloss, but then again you still have to follow this up with a MF, and one last tip, if you plan on jeweling your paint using the gold pad, always check it for dried waxes and sealants that cake or powder after each panel, this is the only problem i've encountered with the gold pad, since you have to work it longer chances are by the time you're done with one panel some pores have already started to harden or build up and these builds up can cause swirls yet again.

but again for me from black to gold, all of them are the same for me, try to check out jon's detail on the CRV using the black pad, the one when he used power polish and followed with reflections, the result was already like he jeweled the paint, its so clean and glossy.

*MADKATZ- pls help...Due to the good results these LC pads giving you, im now interested to buy a set. I have gone over the LC website, found out several kinds of pads (wool,foam...etc) and types of pads(yellow,white,black..etc.). But based on your experience, what is the best pad to use and the color to choose?
Another question, what im using now for polishing& buffing is the Black&decker orbital polisher, can i instantly use the pads on this polisher?
If not, is there a need to buy an adapter, backing plate..etc for the pads to be applicable on my Black&decker? Or the LC pads only for Porter Cable 7424? enlighten me pls....thanks