*Sorry double post
Sabi ni chikselog sa akin Perla daw dapat ang gamit na detergent/soap sa MF towels
Try using perla soap, kuskusin ninyo mabuti para alang matirang dumi or excess wax sa MF...then let it dry (NOT under the sun)
OT: ASAAN NA YUN 2 TOMADOR na nagyayaya ano tuloy ba sa saturday...don't worry di ko kayo pag-dedegrimin....ako na bahala dun...watch ninyo na lang ako habang enom....letson ulo pwede na bang pulutan yun???![]()
Just to share:
My 476S is not beading again. Maybe it's because puno na ng clinged dirt yung paint :rofl:. 1 week na rin akong di nakakapag-wash, puro ONR cleaning QD lang hehe. Hopefully pagka-wash ko meron pa rin beading. Baka meron lang talagang dirt na dapat gamitan na ng shampoo para matanggal. Or hindi lahat kaya nung cleaning QD. Or baka mali pag gamit ko hehe.
just bought meg's swirlx.
okay namang ang shine.
pero parang ayaw parin matanggal yung ibang watermarks na makapal. Is it true na mas effective ang scratchx? ano differences nila mga bro?
Yes ScratchX is more effective but only because its also more aggressive and abrasive, the difference would only lie on their aggressiveness and workability scratchX is more aggressive and has a shorter work time, SwirlX is less aggressive but has a longer work time
Also you don't need to let SwirlX dry to a haze, you just work the product as long as its still a little wet with a little film of lubrication in between the foam applicator and the paint and as long as you don't rub it dry, and then check from time to time whether the correction has been made by wiping off a portion of the area you are working on, if the defect is still there, then just re-apply swirlX and work it again, if the product starts to dry then apply a few more swirlX and then work it again until the defect is gone.
The heat of the sun in our country is really really hot and i find it that if left to bake in the sun it actually stiffens a little so its better to let it dry in the shade, we did a test before and used a brand new MF towel and placed in under the sun for one whole day and when we got it back it was courser than it was brand new, so if you want your MF's to look and feel like they're new, first wash it properly with a strong enough detergent to do the job, i know that the instructions read that you only need to use mild detergents for washing MF's but when you use a collinite, how do you expect to remove a wax thats detergent proof? so thats why i first use a degreaser, or i scrub it thoroughly, and then once its clean, i then soak it for a few minutes in water and perla and then rinse before i let it air dry in the shade, the results? i heard some guys was surprised to see our MF towels still soft after more than 1 year of usage. but one odd thing is that for those really stubborn stains, i use warm water and it doesn't do anything to degrade the fibers it even helps to remove wax and polish residues.
Thanks for the reply Madkatz
At this point, I'm considering on having my ride clayed for the 1st time, but I don't have the capacity to do a complete detailing work, since I don't have a DA polisher/machine and time is a factor as well.
Need further advice regarding what to do at this point?
1. Wash with Dawn or some other detergent
2. Clay bar
3. Polish with either Mother's or Meguiars, to remove light swirl marks
4. Seal with FX Synwax
5. Top off with Turtle Wax Platinum Ultra Gloss
Now that I've enumerated that, can I clay bar just I portion, then polish, then do the rest of the regimen...then say do the other portions the week after? And hand polishing again...hence the per panel work being done.
Again, my ride is parked in the open...under the elements almost 24/7...black painted Adventure.
TIA
Last edited by Big_daddy; July 8th, 2010 at 01:06 PM. Reason: add
Need further advice regarding what to do at this point?
1. Wash with Dawn or some other detergent
Dawn is a great detergent thats strong enough to remove most waxes and sealants but also strong enough to remove road films and all that other dirty stuff but it being strong you should work fast and dry it fast so it doesn't whiten your trims
For initial wash i would recommend dawn but for the succeeding washes i would recommend a dedicated car shampoo so it won't strip you wax.
2. Clay bar
3. Polish with either Mother's or Meguiars, to remove light swirl marks
If you are dealing with swirl marks, if you are planning on removing them, try using SwirlX for Meguiars and if you plan on filling them, try using Mothers Step 2
4. Seal with FX Synwax
There's always a rule of thumb to always wait for sealants to cure properly to the paint but i've found it much less for FX Synwax so you could probably take a break a little and grab a cold one before slapping on the TW PUG
5. Top off with Turtle Wax Platinum Ultra Gloss
For starters and those on time constraints i also recommend detailing it per panel, but of course this would always happen after washing you car, lets say this week your goal is to do the roof hood and trunk, then go ahead and clay it and polish it and then seal it with FX and then wax it with TW PUG, and just use PUG for the rest of the car, the reason why i said you use FX only on those parts of the car that you've clayed and polish is because its going to be pointless to apply FX to the other panels when you're just gonna clay it the week after, clay will surely remove and protection on your paint, at least when one part of the car is clayed polished and sealed you could just top that part with wax after washing your car and you're done for that panel and just clay polish and seal other panels.