*FasTrac: Firstly i would have to warn you regarding handling a rotary polisher, this is not like a DA or a ROP polisher that is pretty much noob friendly since its does not induce swirls and it would take a long time to burn or strike through paint. The rotary polisher is a totally different animal, at first i though that after seeing video's of how to do it how can it be that hard? So i grabbed some paint panels from some body shops in banawe for a few hundred to about 1k pesos and practiced on them, and they are not joking when they say that it is very easy to strike through, so after practicing on some panels and learning the steep learning curve i was still not producing great results so i ended up taking the Megs and Mothers Seminar before i could start to get great results. A rotary polisher can be safe once you follow the guidelines and when you use light foam pads with light polishes but its a different story when using wool and cutting pads and compounds

Its a good thing that you have that polisher since thats also my first polisher, but in my case when i bought mine i already bought it as a package with an included 7" backing plate for 8 inch pads and an extra wool pad so that makes it 2. Outside this package sells for 4.5k to 5k but since we personally know the seller we got it for a little less but the thing is i don't know if he's selling the backing plate separately. If you want his number send me a PM and i'll give you his contact.

The wp1300 is actually a good buffer since it has the power to do serious paint correction but one thing to take note of, is that you cannot put too much pressure on the polisher since it tends to bog down unlike its Makita counterpart. Another thing that i noticed is that when it bogs down you have to release the trigger and start slow again so it definitely takes time to learn how to make it rotate well under different circumstances. Its also a bit heavy so i ended up buying a Makita since its definitely lighter and with the Makita i don't have to put on earphones.

Im saying those things just to give you some heads up without any intention to deter you.

Now with that said these are the things that you would need:

1. Backing plate - you can't attach any pads without this one. The sad thing about this is that this machine does not accept the standard backing pads available in the market so you either have to have one machined for you or find an adapter.

2. Lighting - you need proper lighting to be able to see whether the correction has been done, halogen and fluorescent lights are good for the average joe but if want to take it further, mercury and sodium bulbs are also great in showing up scratches and swirls.

3. Pads - the pads you will be needing would depend on the severity of the defects that you want to correct. It is always nice to start with the least aggressive pads as i've mentioned earlier its nice to get soft pads to for LC it would be white and black for starters and with Megs that would be Yellow and Beige. Once you are capable of getting good results and you might want to venture into more aggressive pads and polishes

4. Polishes and compounds - these are equally important as the pads, and these would also depend on your goals, Megs and Mothers have great polishes that are available locally. Megs 84 for compounding and heavy oxidation, Megs 83 for medium polishing and removing moderate scratches and swirls, sadly this is their lightest polish and this is even considered a medium polish and the Megs light, fine and ultra fine polishes are not available locally. As for Mothers they have a HD compound thats good for compounding, this is actually heavy duty and is considered very aggressive. Then there's Mother Power polish, this is a very versatile product but is very pad dependent, it could be a medium polish with a cutting pad, a light polish with a light cutting pad and a fine polish when used with a finishing pad.

5. Quick Detail Spray - you use this for priming the pad and for removing compound and polish residue's

6. Lots of MF towels - you need to remove polishes every after correction you do or after every polishing you do so alot around 3 for one vehicle this is for one step only.

7. Toothbrush - this is used to clean foam pads

8. Pad Spur - this is used to clean wool pads, if you're not going with wool you don't have to buy this

9. Spray bottle with high concentration of shampoo - you use this to treat those parts of you foam pad that are dirty while working the toothbrush

10. Spray bottle with water - used to rinse off the soap solution.

11. Masking tape - to tape of those non painted parts of the car, getting polishes stuck on non paint surfaces can really be a real pain to remove.