The Definitive Guide to Radiators

[yebo]

Hehe, how timely. I'm replacing the radiator of a 600hp cummins engine....



of the starboard crane tomorrow. Radiator and hydraulic cooler assembly, dry weight 850kg. It's only 70 feet above the main deck, and no walkway around. Hang time!

[EVO-V]

Hehe, how timely. I'm replacing the radiator of a 600hp cummins engine....



of the starboard crane tomorrow. Radiator and hydraulic cooler assembly, dry weight 850kg. It's only 70 feet above the main deck, and no walkway around. Hang time!

LOL Its a little bit more tricky if your equipment is exposed to seaspray.

You need to make sure that the core is properly coated, preferably electrophoretic to perform really well. Unless its pure stainless steel which would be far less efficient but significantly more corrosion resistant.

[EVO-V]

Can't seem to get through the mods for one reason or another. Will just consolidate all this in a new thread once the last installment is ready.

Part 3: Coolant and Commonsense

This is an often overlooked aspect of a vehicle's cooling system that requires more emphasis than usual. Understand that we come from a culture of "remedyo", and "puwede na iyan" (remedy and just get it to work), and that as many people here posting about their problems have experienced, is costing them more time and money.

Just the same it we'll try to tackle things without going too deep into technicalities for now.



1. Do I need coolant?
An unequivocal -YES. Radiator coolants do several things for your radiator and engine. First it is a corrosion inhibitor that protects your engine and radiator from corrosion. Second it increases the boiling point of your coolant so it doesn't vaporize. Third, it acts as lubricant for the pump. Fourth, not as relevant to us here in the tropics -its an antifreeze.


2. There are some people who swear by a water only regime. Are they wrong?
People's tenacity in holding onto myths and superstition extend to something as finite as chemistry.

Though pure water is a far better conductor of heat than a solution mixed with a glycol based coolant, it will readily corrode iron and aluminum given several potential conditions.


3. Do I need to use distilled water?
No. You just need to use clean water. Distilled or de-ionized water simply loses its "purity" once it touches any surface in your cooling loop.

What one needs to watch out for is for when your location has very hard water, where there is a high level of turbidity, or dissolved solids in your water which will end up as scales on the inner surfaces of your vehicle's cooling sub-systems, clogging it.

It is better to simply pour in pre-mix in this situation.


4. What is the best ratio for coolant-water mixture?
A 30-70 Coolant-Water mixture is fine for most automotive applications. A 50-50 mixture may provide more concentration of corrosion inhibitors but there are no significant performance differences versus a 30-70 mix.

Anything more than that would be more for use in cold climates that go below freezing.


5. What's pre-mixed?
A pre-mixed coolant is simply a diluted solution of coolant that's ready to use. No need to add water.


6. If water is corrosive, wouldn't a 100% coolant mix be recommended? Would I get more cooling?
No you wouldn't, in fact your cooling system will have to work harder because glycol has a far lower thermal conductivity than water.

This option is only advisable if your operating conditions go below -40C. Which isn't particularly relevant for just about everyone here.

Waterless coolants are available in the market but those are for more specialized requirements.


7. What are waterless coolants then?
Waterless coolants are coolants that are well -waterless. They have a glycol base but have proprietary formulations that allow for better conductivity, and permanent corrosion inhibition.

These types of coolants utilize proprietary formulations, and used normally for heavy duty applications that require mitigated maintenance, increased protection against corrosion and elimination of cavitation. In cases of trucks/buses/tractor-trailers it also yields fuel savings.

Cavitation is when the superheated surface of an engine's cylinder lining causes the water in the coolant to flashboil, producing microscopic explosions that act as hammers on the surface of the lining. This causes pitting, and is in a large part what those rust particles are sloshing around your cooling loop.

Should this continue, the cavity enlarges and eventually penetrates through the lining into the cylinder.

In the case of collectible cars, its functions as a superior corrosion inhibitor becomes the clincher.


8. What kind of coolant should I use?
Coolants vary by their chemistry and use. For general use a glycol based coolants with a respectable corrosion inhbition package would suffice. Go with long life coolants and pre-mixes from reputable vendors.

The pre-mixes from your dealership are commonly formulated for longer maintenance intervals. But make sure they use the correct one.

Avoid coolants that have organic acid based inhibitor packages. Should a stray current (ground) find its way into your engine, this coolant has a tendency of increasing anodic reactions that causes corrosion on aluminum surfaces.

Beware of those backyard pre-mixes and rebadged items. A vendor must be able to answer questions about their products' chemistry.

Waterless if you're feeling fancy and extra loving to your ride or if you run fleets where downtime and maintenance are key cost areas you want to mitigate.


9. How long do coolants last?
Tough to say. Your stock coolant should be good for about 40,000 km to 100,000 km depending on the formulation. Modern vehicles need not change their coolants for 5 years or 100,000 MILES (160,000 km).

Aftermarket long life coolants typically require you to change every year or two.

Aftermarket heavy duty coolants typically require you to change every 3-6 months.

Waterless coolants are life time coolants as long as you don't add water to it.


9. Should I use additives?
Well this is a bit tricky, given any gains from additives are only marginal and are normally just water wetters, ie. products that break the surface tension of the solution so that it spreads out easily. Often these substances also breakdown and result in residual sludge.

In heavy duty applications, however, there are additives that provide enhanced protection against cavitation.

Additives for this kind of situation, form a protective coating that acts as an ablative surface to these microscopic hammers, and is replenished as it flows. However, these have something like a 30,000-60,000km effective life.

10. How often do I need to top up my coolant?
A properly sealed coolant loop should have enough coolant until the next replacement cycle. If you're losing coolant, you have a leak somewhere. (standby for Part 4)


11. For one reason or another, my car overheated because my coolant drained, and I can't get access to clean water, what do I do?
Perform the standard procedure for an overheating situation as per your car's manual to cool down your vehicle. Follow ALL stated safety procedures.

If the only available water is from a deep well source, or even muddy water from a puddle, and you really have to get moving -take the trouble to at least filter the water with a piece of cloth prior to putting it into your radiator/reservoir.

Have your car serviced as soon as possible, make sure you drain and thoroughly flush your system prior to refilling it with the proper coolant solution.

(We'll tackle emergency procedures under Part 4: Troubleshooting).

[K.I.L.L.]

I vote for this to be sticky.

There was a Philippine company before called Motorco who made good copper-brass radiators. They were priced a bit higher over their local counterparts Evercool, Peers and UE. I know Evercool is still around but I think Peers has gone under. Does anyone know if UE still manufactures radiators?

[EVO-V]

I vote for this to be sticky.

There was a Philippine company before called Motorco who made good copper-brass radiators. They were priced a bit higher over their local counterparts Evercool, Peers and UE. I know Evercool is still around but I think Peers has gone under. Does anyone know if UE still manufactures radiators?

UE is long gone, it spun off its radiator division -Radphil, but that was eventually scuttled and bought by a Korean group.

Pierce's wasn't able to do legacy planning.

[12vdc]

How do you guys dispose used coolant?

Ako sa septic tank since wla ako alam tumatanggap na recycling facility.

[EVO-V]

As long as you don't let it leech into the ground, like soil, river, waterways etc., most coolants can be disposed of through the sewer and broken down.

A septic tank works as well because it will keep it isolated from everything else too.

Errata: Pearce not Pierce.

[doggieD]

nosebleed! hehehe

pero seryoso lang, marami akong natutunan dito.

[mcbry]

thanks for the info.
very informative.

ask ko lang how long ba pinapalitan yung radiator cap?

[EVO-V]

thanks for the info.
very informative.

ask ko lang how long ba pinapalitan yung radiator cap?

Normally replace as necessary. Namely if the seal is already worn, or the spring is rusted heavily, or that the cap itself is dilapidated.

Radiator caps aren't normally removed unless people think that filling up with water every morning is the solution to losing coolant in the first place.