mga master,
tanong lang kung anong proper na pagbukas ng a/c naka fan ba muna at off ang thermostat o sabay na bukas ang fan at thermostat...? anong mas mabuti para humaba ang buhay ng a/c...?
mga master,
tanong lang kung anong proper na pagbukas ng a/c naka fan ba muna at off ang thermostat o sabay na bukas ang fan at thermostat...? anong mas mabuti para humaba ang buhay ng a/c...?
Doesn't matter really...either way walang problema but I don't see the logic of turning on the fan first bago buksan yun compressor..makes no sense
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Parang aircon sa bahay? Fan muna bago Low Cool? I don't want to add unnecessary wear and tear to my switches. Basta I make sure that the AC is off before I start the engine to minimize load on the starter and battery. I turn off the aircon first before turning off the engine.
It does make sense imo
The starting current of a motor is really high so thats high current running thru your windings.. Parang hinahawakan mo yung fan blades habang naka on.. Then if you turn your a/c's fan & comp at the same time.. Imagine the power voltage drop in your system if it was in your car.. Which may shorten the life of your alternator/battery or any other electrical component on your system..
Some cars with climate control do not engage the compressor agad when the car is started. Maghihintay sya ng ilang seconds bago kakagat ang compressor. Not sure with manual ACs though.
I would say it does not matter unless otherwise indicated in your car manual. If unsure best would be to turn on the engine first, then aircon fan, then a/c compressor on a manual a/c system. You can do all that in under 5 seconds anyway.
owner's manual usually suggest the AC should be OFF before starting the car and before turning off the engine ... this ensures lighter electrical load during starting
as to whether the fan or compressor goes first, it doesn't matter ... most owners don't touch the thermostat setting when turning the AC on, so the fan and compressor kicks in simultaneously and does not hurt anything
pag mainit singaw sa loob ng oto (lalo na nabilad ng matagal), todo sa fan muna
habang naka-awang mga bintana.
turning A/C off - thermostat first, then let the fan on for a minute or two.
I keep the A/C switch "on" (and thermostat in my usual setting) and just turn on the A/C a few moments after i start the car (kung malamig naman panahon, i wait for the car to warm a bit and turn on the A/c when my idle is more settled) and turn off before shutting off the engine. Wala naman sira because of that aside from the usual wear and tear.
parang hindi ko maintindihan, ibig bang sabihin bukod and switch ng fan sa switch ng aircon? di ba ang blower ang may bukod na switch? on modern cars you don't have to worry kahit I switch mo agad ang ac, the engine computer will take care of that
ako nakasanayan ko na yung.. start engine.. then turn on fan.. tapos kabit seatbelt.. release hand brake.. then andar.. then tsaka pa lang on ang aircon..
hinde na kailagan yan...basta pag start ng makina...a couple of seconds on niyo na A/C with compressor ang all. matalino na mga kotse now...they will adjust everyhing accordinly
Ganito rin ang gawa ko. May nakapagsabi sakin na mag fan muna lalo na kapaga nakabilad
sa araw ang sasakyan. Laminated na kasi ang mga evaporator ngayon kaya madaling mabutas.
Sabi sakin, mag fan muna ng kahit 3 minutes para ilabas nya yung mainit na hangin.
Pag di na ganun kainit, tsaka pa lang buksan and engine at mag AC.
Kapag dumaloy kasi ang freon ng hindi pa napasingaw yung init, mag kakaroon ng "sudden change" ng temp
dun sa evaporator. Di naman sya agad na mabubutas pero pag ganun lagi ang gawa o practice, dun sya
mag uumpisang magka problema.
Makakatulong din na sa covered parking ilagay ang sasakyan kung pwede para kung may mainipin kang kasabay,
hindi mo kinakailangan mag fan ng mas matagal. Nung 2006 pa ko huling nagpalit ng Keihin evqaporator kaya
masasabi ko na epektibo yung sinabi sakin.
PInaka problema ko ngayon any yung Sanden Compressor ko para sa 2001 Civic LXI (dimensions body).
Every 3 years, kailangan kong magpalit dahil na woworn out yung shaft. Pansin ko na nagwiwigle yung
pulley kaya hindi nag eengage yung magnetic plate. 2005 nung una kong magpalit tapos 2008 at pinakahuli
ay 2011. Six months bago ko magpalit ng compressor, nag papalit na ko ng timing belt at tensioner bearing kaya
damay na rin steering belt at AC/alternator belt. Tinitingnan ko lang kung makakatulong pero walang epekto.
Mag 2014 na next month, sa May sched ng timing belt at sa November pa satingin ko bibigay yung compressor.
Ask ko lang sana kung meron pang ibang brand ng compressor para sa model ng sasakyan ko dahil hindi durable
and Sanden. Nakakpanghinayang na magpalit ng compressor worth 12K dahil lang sa worn out na shaft.
Thanks
baka masyado mahigpit yung belt mo.. check mo din yung alignment nya or palitan mo din yung pinaka pulley ng compressor
kahit anong style pwede. basta ang uunahin mo palagi bago pumasok ng kotse e yung....
maligo! ang kalimitan sanhi ng pagbabara ng evaporator e libag na galing sa iyo. yan ang kinabubuhay ng germs at fungi na siyang bumabara sa evaporator fins.
Yung pulley naman kasi tingin ko OK sya dahil kapag kinapa ko yung bearing nya wala naman sumasabit. Smooth pa rin
Mejo napaisip ako dun sa belt dahil nasisira yung shaft 5 to 6 months after kong palitan lahat ng mga belt.
Dapat bang wag ko munang palitan this May yung AC/alternator belt? Ask ko yung mekaniko na AS IS yung batak sa belt para di sya masira.
shaft nga pala nasisira sayo... check mo yung clutch mismo baka gumegewang... may damper yan eh baka 8 na masisira talaga yung shaft... yung higpit ng belt ang effect nun sa bearing nung pulley at hindi sa shaft.
yung sa aircon na fan muna lalo na pag mainit bago buksan yung compressor eh para lang ma stabilize yung temperature nung cooling coil kumbaga eh pasingawin mo muna ng konti para hindi mahirapan yung system..
sa mga aircon na pambahay ang purpose nung 3 mins eh para din balanse yung pressure sa low side.. yung mga lumang aircon kasi wala overload protection.. pag bigla mo pinatay yung compressor, pwede mo ulet i-on agad.. yung biglang on ulet ng compressor ang problema kasi mataas pa ang pressure sa low side at mahihirapan yung compressor..capillary tube lang kasi yan at hindi expansion valve gaya sa mga kotse..
common causes of frequent belt failure or derailment, are a mis-aligned pulley system, or a rough area in one of the pulley wheels..
and a toothed belt lasts longer than a solid belt, not to mention it's easier to install because it's softer..