Naninikit na brakes

[LN106G]

ok, lets see. Firstly - May I ask the TS the reason why she changed the repair kit of the primary master cylinder in the first place?
Second - what brand of repair kit did you use to change the old one? and did you or your mechanic compare the new repair kit with the old one? they should be EXACTLY the same in every aspect, like the placement of the rubber O-rings, the depth of the cavity on the rear portion of the shaft of the kit where the push rod comes into contact with and of course the size should be the same. The good japanese brands for cylinder repair kits are SEIKEN, SAM, F/C. These are brands that I have used with my rigs.
third - how many times did you change the repair kit of your Master cylinder? Is your primary master cylinder made of aluminum or cast iron?

[dr. d]

it would help if we knew what model vehicle we're talking about... but here're my generic thoughts, from personal experience:
1. it's not the hydrovac. when the hydrovac leaks or breaks down, the result is extremely weak brakes. as in, tatayo ka sa pidal para kumagat man lang nang kaunti ang brakes.
2. "tumitigas ang brake pedal" . this is a sign of increasing brake fluid pressure in the main brake cylinder. possible causes include:
a. your brake pedal may have too little free play or none at all. this results in non-return of brake fluid from your brake caliper to your master brake cylinder, resulting in persistently locked brakes. it's a common enough problem in certain cars, seen when hydrovacs and master brake cylinders are moved.. free play can be adjusted in certain cars.. all you need is common sense and double jointed arms.. heh heh.
b. there's something wrong with your master cylinder. perhaps, as someone above mentioned, the rubber grommet may have perished and is causing one-way-valve effect. or maybe it's just plain dirty..
c. your brake lines have air in them. when air is heated (by the brake rotor friction), it expands, effectively causing the brakes to lock. have them bled right. there is a proper order, and i do hope your mechanic uses the bleed valves and not just the brake hose threads.
3. btw, all disc brakes heat up more than drum brakes. this is normal. because, all disc brake pads are always touching the brake rotor. disk rotors are always clean and shiny, because they are always in touch with their pads. this is also a reason why disc brakes are more prone to "stuck brake syndrome"; because they are always on. drum brakes have more free play; their shoes touch the drums only when the brakes are applied. (so, when the casa mechanics ask you if you want your front brake rotors cleaned, tell them no. they're already clean. and don't allow them to adjust them, either. modern brakes self-adjust.)
4. scoring ("gasgas") of the brake cylinders, pistons and slave cylinders, will make you lose brake fluid and your brakes will gradually weaken. but they don't usually cause stuck brakes. and personally, when the metal walls get scored, i always replace them with new ones. because i have found out that just fixing them don't last long..
5. have you ever seen a pair of cherry-red hot front wheel and brake assemblies? they're pretty at night.. and i had to wait a half hour before i can touch them. it seems, we forgot to adjust pedal free play when we brought down the main cylinder earlier that day. i'm just wondering how come they didn't collapse on me as i was driving over potholes earlier.. and the biggest wonder, is we just had to adjust the pedal free play, and the brakes sprang back to life, and we were able to drive the car home that night!

[PamelaAsistio]

if you changed your master cylinder cylinder repair kit, chances are the replacement primary piston cavity where the push rod sits has a shallower cavity than the original and the push rod is too long for that replacement piston that, since it is somewhat pushed forward while the brake pedal is fully released, the primary compensating port is being blocked by the piston and the piston rubber cap preventing brake fluid from returning to the reservoir. have the push rod adjusted with about 1 mm clearance or freeplay. do not replace anything yet that had been guessingly recommended by mechanic A, mechanic B, mechanic C and mechanic guess

Just to give an update. Sir jick.cejoco, this was exactly what happened. Unfortunately, the brake master kit replaced by the previous mechanic was not the exact one. According to the mechanic, the brake master kit was for mitsu not for stanza..pero sukat na sukat naman po lahat pati na un piston...ang difference lang ay mas makapal ang springs nung dating nakakabit at mas malalim daw yung tinutusukan ng push rod. This is the culprit daw kaya madalas manikit un brakes at tumitigas tapakan yung pedal after 10mins of driving dahil hinde daw makabalik yung brake fluid.
So ang solution po nung new mechanic ay inadjust nya sa pinakatodo un push rod kaso ay nakatukod pa din nung nilagay nya ang brake master, so another solution he did ay binarenahan ng konti para lumalim un piston ng brake master na tinutusukan ng push rod para daw hinde laging nakatukod at magkapressure at para daw bumalik sa normal places un brake master everytime na aapakan un pedal.

Pinaoobserbahan po muna sa kin kung mag-iinit pa din un mags, maninikit ang preno at titigas ang pedal. Sa ngayon, hinde ko pa po natetest ng malayuan dahil hinde pa po ako comfortable sa takbo ng car, but I have one comment so far, medyo humina po ang brakes ko ngayon, kelangan ko pa pong apakan ng todo ang pedal bago kumagat ang brakes at hinde po sya nag-sskid...unlike before, pag inapakan ko ng sagad ay kumakamot na po ang wheels sa lupa sa lakas ng brake.
Ano na naman po kaya ang naging problema bat humina ang brakes ng car..nasobrahan po kaya ang pag-adjust nila ng rod?

Medyo nadidismaya na din po ako sa kotse kaya bihira ko na lang muna gamitin lately. Baka po may alam kayo where to purchase a stock brake master kit for nissan stanza 85, pakisabi naman po kung saan (cavite area po ako)...para po matapos na tong problema nung auto. Thanks a lot po sa mga gurus na always here to help and share their knowledge & expertise to people like us.

[LN106G]

IMHO, Your problem is simple to begin with and with a simple solution that was made complicated by your first mechanic by installing a wrong brake part. Your brake system is messed up so to speak. If you still have the old repair kit, bring it to a reliable auto supply and look for a specific repair kit identical to it in every aspect. Insist to get a good quality japanese brand like SEIKIN, SaM, F/C, AISIN, ASCO, etc. Maybe your repair kit is hard to find but it is out there somewhere. My late 70's and early 80's toyota 4WD have brake repair kits if you ask me. I think AISIN brand produces a whole assembly of brake master for each and every japanese car. This is your best bet if you are unable to find the proper repair kit. Another remedy is to swap in a good and functional surplus hydrovac & brake master assembly. (As long as the measurement pattern of the rear mounting bolt is the same as your old one, you will be fine). You can also upgrade to a bigger brake master should you wish to do it. (ie, if or old BM is size 13/16" you can swap in a 7/8" BM). As for your old Hydrovac, I suggest you change it also as the factory length of the push rod was messed up by your mechanic. Keep in mind that when the engine is on and the vacuum assist for the brakes function, the factory set distance b/n the pushrod and the repair kit is maintained. Altering this engineered physics will give you problems. As per experience and repairing brakes, the push rod b/n the hydrovac and the brake master should NOT be touched. Sticking brakes is usually the outcome when your mechanic adjusts such push rod. This problem will come out sooner or later and will catch you off guard mostly in uncomfortable situations. The only push rod your mechanic can adjust is the one b/n the pedal and the hydrovac. Nothing else. You can change your flexible brake hoses at a later time when your brake system is fixed..

[PamelaAsistio]

If you still have the old repair kit, bring it to a reliable auto supply and look for a specific repair kit identical to it in every aspect.

Unfortunately wala na po yung original stock brake master kit. Nung pinalitan po kasi nung dating mechanic ay hinde ko nakuha yung stock.
Hoping someone here knows where to get the stock brake master kit of nissan stanza 85...if possible cavite area po sana, specifically around bacoor or imus lang, para if ever na hinde magfit yung mabili kong spare parts ay maibabalik ko agad sa shop. But Im also open in auto shops in manila basta po kabisado at tama yung kit na ibibigay nila kahit pa wala akong dalang sample, mahirap po kasi kung magpapabalik balik kami from cavite to manila pag mali yung naibigay na parts. Thanks

[jick.cejoco]

Unfortunately wala na po yung original stock brake master kit. Nung pinalitan po kasi nung dating mechanic ay hinde ko nakuha yung stock.
Hoping someone here knows where to get the stock brake master kit of nissan stanza 85...if possible cavite area po sana, specifically around bacoor or imus lang, para if ever na hinde magfit yung mabili kong spare parts ay maibabalik ko agad sa shop. But Im also open in auto shops in manila basta po kabisado at tama yung kit na ibibigay nila kahit pa wala akong dalang sample, mahirap po kasi kung magpapabalik balik kami from cavite to manila pag mali yung naibigay na parts. Thanks

i had done this before in the past where the push rod was too long for the new master cylinder or repair kit. some push rods are two piece (main rod and an adjuster screw), however, if the push rod is that of a fixed one piece design, i copied the long push rod length and filed the new fabricated push rod shorter to make room for the 2 mm slack between the push rod and the primary piston cavity. there are brake master cylinder push rod gauges available, but in its absence, you can use the installed push rod as a gauge. simply pull the push rod as if the brake pedal had been depressed, reinstall the master cylinder and remove again to determine if the push rod still can be pushed inward about 2mm. if you don't want to file the push rod shorter, you can opt to install a spacer or gasket between the master cylinder and the brake booster until the desired slack of the push rod is obtained. simple as that!

[dr. d]

Wow! mekaniko siguro ng PUJ..

[LN106G]

Unfortunately wala na po yung original stock brake master kit. Nung pinalitan po kasi nung dating mechanic ay hinde ko nakuha yung stock.
Hoping someone here knows where to get the stock brake master kit of nissan stanza 85...if possible cavite area po sana, specifically around bacoor or imus lang, para if ever na hinde magfit yung mabili kong spare parts ay maibabalik ko agad sa shop. But Im also open in auto shops in manila basta po kabisado at tama yung kit na ibibigay nila kahit pa wala akong dalang sample, mahirap po kasi kung magpapabalik balik kami from cavite to manila pag mali yung naibigay na parts. Thanks

any news po on regarding your brake system, mam Pam?

[PamelaAsistio]

any news po on regarding your brake system, mam Pam?

Sorry sir, as of press time I cant give any updates about the car's condition, hinde ko na po muna kasi ginagamit ng malayuan until we find an original brake master kit for stanza 85. Im only using it if going to grocery, church, market, etc...normally 2 to 5 blocks away lang po from our house. But in fairness to the last mechanic who handled the car, so far from the latest adjustments he made ay hinde na po naninikit ang brakes or tumitigas ang pedal.
But were still looking for auto shops where to purchase the original brake master kit..just for peace of mind lang po, I really want to replace the presently installed master kit with the original one bago ko uli gamitin sa long drives ang car:-)
Thank you

[bogart_seph]

Dito nalang po ako magtatanong mga sir.

Anu po kaya problem sa brake system ng 92kia pride ko? Before po kc, nagpapalit ako ng balljoint/control arm & rack end pinion,in doing so,nakita na din nung mechanic,pinakita din sakin, kelangan na palitan brake pads, so pinalitan na din. After nun,mga after 1 week, napansin ko nung umaga,may basa sa left front wheel(driver side),sa ilalim mismo ng gulong. kala ko ihi lang ng aso, pero nung check ko may basa sa likod ng mags at hinawakan ko, fluid pla. in short, may tumatagas na brake fluid(ata). Check ko agad fluid reservoir,hindi nman ngbabawas. Tapos ginamit ko sya dahil may lakad ako. mga 4-5hrs din ako sa pinuntahan ko. sinilip ko uli,wala naman bakas sa sahig na may tumulo na fluid. Hindi katulad nung nasa bahay. Hndi din nagbabago ung fluid s reservoir(or bka sobrang pakonti-konti lang). Binalik ko dun sa mechanic, sabi yung caliper/piston ba yun? kelangan na daw palitan. Pero ok pa nman daw yun. Totoo kaya cnasabi niya?
Help naman po mga sir...thanks....btw: isa p pala, anu po ba problem ng preno pag binobomba pa before kumapit? Yung pangalawang apak sa preno before kumapit yung preno....thanks po uli....