Steel Epoxy - Matibay ba?

[Mguy]

Question, matibay ba talaga steel epoxy than the regular epoxy?

The nut for holding the license plate fell off my car kasi and it seems that it was only epoxied to the car's body work. I used steel epoxy to stick it back but am afraid na mas mahina sya kaysa dati.

Well, the reason the nut removed is because I have a plate glass installed on top of the plate. Must have been too heavy for the nut's epoxy.

[Mamar]

ang alam ko pareho lng sya ng ibang mga epoxy ang difference lng nila ung steel epoxy pede sa mga car engine and stuff like that ok lng sya maiinitan o malagyan ng langis khit sa engine block pde sya or sa radiator!

[yebo]

same as regular epoxy, only difference is that you can machine it. bakit di mo na lang lagyan ng mas malaking bolt with matching bigger washer. i know, mahirap gawin kasi yung nut nasa loob ng bumper pero kung matyaga ka kaya mo yan.

[Mguy]

same as regular epoxy, only difference is that you can machine it. bakit di mo na lang lagyan ng mas malaking bolt with matching bigger washer. i know, mahirap gawin kasi yung nut nasa loob ng bumper pero kung matyaga ka kaya mo yan.

When you said, machine it, could I smoothen out the edges with a sanding bit?

Nice idea with the bolt and washer. My worry there is the accumulation of rust.

[BoEinG_747]

make it sure na malinis(no dust ,no oil) ang pag kakapitan or pag lalagyan mo ng epoxy

OT: parang ang bilis ng tsikot.com ngayon

[orly_andico]

well it's not a structural load-bearing part so steel epoxy is plenty strong. i would be nervous repairing a CRANKSHAFT using steel epoxy though... :P

just be careful machining or grinding/shaping it. steel epoxy particles can cause serious respiratory ailments if inhaled.

[yebo]

machining means, er, machining. you can drill it and then thread it to accept a bolt. you can build up a worn part and then put it on a lathe machine. BUT remember, it is not designed to replace metal, it's load bearing capacity is much less. it's another thing altogether when it comes to fiberglass and even plastic and polyurethane. there are epoxy kits that are specifically designed to repair these. it comes with a fiberglass cloth that is dipped into the epoxy mix and then used to build up a damaged part (the hull of a boat for example). after it hardens it can be sanded, grinded, filed and painted.

the secret of a good epoxy repair is preparation and curing. the surface should be rough so that the epoxy can stick to it. also it has to be oil and water free. for plastics, use a detergent and water to clean the surface then dry completely (with a hair dryer!) . do not use CRC contact cleaner on plastics (plastics will react with CRC, especially those with compositions like plexiglass). for metals you can use CRC contact cleaner (not degreaser, that is oil). mix the epoxy according to the instructions. do not mix and apply epoxy in a damp room. in fact it is best to be in an airconditioned room for 2 reasons - low humidity, and the low temperature extends the time that you can mold the epoxy into shape. especially for steel epoxy that sets in just 5 or 10 minutes, an extra minute or two before it becomes rock hard can be a godsend. imagine mixing a big batch of epoxy and then it took you more time to form it than the hardening time, e di sayang yun di ba. after you finish you can then cure it. use a ultraviolet light B lamp for curing (same as the one used for detecting fake money). UVB makes it set faster and harder. 2 hours under a UVB lamp should be enough. if however you don't have one then you will have to wait 24 hours before you can machine it. counted from the time you mixed it a total curing time of 72 hours will be needed without UVB light, and 24 hours if a UVB light is used. the reason why some epoxy repairs fail is because the repaired part is used right away and stresses are introduced before it can harden completely.

TIP: an alternate solution for a threaded hole will be to "implant" a nut in the epoxy. if you can find a wing nut then that will be best since the wing will give additional strength. if you can't find a wing nut then get an ordinary nut, cut a groove along its sides with a hacksaw or file and this groove will hold on to the epoxy. alternately, you can avoid drilling and threading (especially if you do not have the right size drill bit and taps) by installing the bolt in the still soft epoxy. lighty grease (just a very thin coat of grease, NOT oil) the bolt threads so that the epoxy resin will not stick to it. lightly press the epoxy around the bolt so that it fills the valleys of the bolt threads. when the epoxy has set the bolt can be removed and an exact matching thread will be left. magic!

we repaired 2 years ago a fiberglass boat. you won't know it had been repaired unless you look at the records.

[Mguy]

Nice tips Yebo. Thanks.

I'll probably implant a nut to give more strength. Thanks again.

[seonadancing]

Matibay yan. Yun Spoiler ko ginamitan ko nyan kasi yun nut nag kalawang na and di na matangal o masikipan. Umaalog kasi yun spolier e so dinikitan ng stell epoxy. Problema lang e pangit yun pagkakagawa nung mekaniko.

[Psylocke]

Epoxy is weak. A mechanical fastener is preferable.

Depending on the substrates expoxy may not be the best choice. For some plastics try devcon plastic welding, it sort of "melts" the plastics together, the bond is much stronger than epoxy