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December 9th, 2017 04:07 PM #21The OEM oil drain plug at the casa for the diesel Innova is P282.00.... most drain plug wrench head across most new toyotas is 14mm. My reservation with the quick-release drain plug is security reasons. It is easily drained without a tool. You can end up with a seized engine if victimized... just my thoughts...
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December 9th, 2017 05:25 PM #22
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December 9th, 2017 06:55 PM #23
This is actually true sir travajante. but sometimes other people go more than that.. hehe.
My other concern is the spring tension of this quick release drainplug over time. will it maintain its tension strength enough to maintain the needed seal? as we all know that engine oil is under pressure circulating while the engine is running. or does it have a service lifetime that we have to change them after what mileage? it might leak oil over time if the spring tension weakens and we all know what happens...
thanks
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December 9th, 2017 07:10 PM #24
The spring tension is only for the lever, not the seal. It's locked by a notch....w/ the option of an additional locking clip. Even if the spring should weaken, the ball valve seal won't be compromised. The warranty is lifetime. I've had them for years w/ no trouble. Fumoto is Nippon made, has been proven for more than 2 decades & remains a popular enthusiast mod out west. Having this doesn't free us from periodically checking the oil level though.
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December 9th, 2017 07:10 PM #25Same thoughts, only ideal for stationary engines where your sump could not hit any object underneath resulting to cracking or opening the valve.
For that price, i'd rather buy a torque wrench and original crush gaskets, after all the sump hole and plug which is usually heat-treated carbon steel is designed to be fitted multiple times without failing.
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December 9th, 2017 07:20 PM #26
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December 9th, 2017 09:15 PM #27It never changed me as most of the cars are not just for city terrain. I have serviced drain pans mostly damaged after off-roading. The less protrusion the less chances of destroying the pan. Seized plug caused by improper servicing can be removed by heating, but that won't happen if proper tools and gaskets were used in the first place. I always ended up buying the original pan/ drain plug, and advise the driver to be aware of the underbelly clearance and breakover angles esp those with worn engine/transmission mounts.
Drain pans can be repaired by welding with new plug. Cheaper fix but i won't recommend since it entail gasket re-fitting and re-torquing of bolt that would be equivalent to dropping or replacing the whole pan which i'd always choose the OEM route/replacement for better peace of mind.
I'd be happy installing that to the genset as the manual says replace oil every 3mos or 50hrs.
To each his own i guess.
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December 9th, 2017 09:36 PM #28
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December 9th, 2017 09:36 PM #29
I do share your points & have never installed nor recommended the valve for off-road use, skid plated or not. And on some premiums where everything under is cramped, I'd rather go the longer proper route to remove the pan & extract the seized plug than risk collateral damage w/ heating in place....Just sharing an option of convenience long available & used, sir.
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December 9th, 2017 09:51 PM #30
Kinda OT...hehe....We all know termites are subterranean. Used oil, applied on indoor sub-floor compacted base layer under the moisture barrier before concrete is poured, can serve well as last line defense against em....strictly limited to areas where there won't be surface water seepage that would contaminate the soil & the water table.
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