***HELP*** iding problem

[CoolGal]

bat ganon bigla na lang nagloko idling ng mazda 323 ko.

normal naman sya for the past months tapos yesterday pag open ko ng aircon (na warm up ko na yung car for abt 10mins) biglang 600 na lang rpm ko kaya ang lakas ng nginig tapos pag pinatay ko 900rpm which i think is normal. bat ganon?

before 900 yun rpm ko tapos pag naka aircon 800rpm. biglang naging 600. wala naman akong ginagalaw. nagpatune up ako last aug2002. nilinis na din carburetor ko using the spray carb cleaner. ano na naman kaya problema na kotse ko?

[Kidd636]

once bumagsak ang idling ng 600rpm, kapag ni-rev mo ba ng konti bumabalik ba siya uli sa normal? if yes, check the choke of your carb, baka stuck-up lang...

pag ok ang choke, check the idle-up (actuator)... ito yung nagpapa-taas ng idling kapag nag-on ang compress to compensate for the extra load...

[pajerokid]

Coolgal::: I think yung compensator ng aircon mo kailangan i-adjust. You can do this yourself if youre mechanically inclined. Turnilyo lang ito na pipihitin mo to adjust the idle when the compressor is running

[afrasay]

Baka yon idler up sira na. Is it permanent or intermittent? If intermittent, check connection between your AC compressor and your idler up switch. Baka loose lang. Good luck. :wink:

[CoolGal]

pag ni rev ko bumabalik din sya sa 600. before naman bumabalik sa normal pag ni rev ko pero ngayon di na. pag nag automatic na yung fan bumababa sya ng 600 tapos pag nag off na 800 na ulit tapos pag nag kick in yun fan 600 na naman. ano sasabihin ko sa mechanic? i-check yun idler up switch? pano kung kailangan na palitan? magkano yun?

[kupaloids]

Malamang sa idler up switch lang yan. Nung nilinis ba yung carb. mo e tinanggal yung buo? Kung ganun, baka hindi nila naibalik yung vacuum hose na nagpapa andar nung idler up switch (kung vacuum type) o kaya baka hindi naibalik o nabunot yung wire ng idler up (kung electronic type).

Sabi nga ni OTEP, kung machanically inclined ka madali nang i-DIY yun.
Good luck sa problem hunting. :mrgreen:

[otomatic]

yup! sa aircon idle-up lang yon! check yung vacuum hose nito baka nabunot lang!

[CoolGal]

so ibig sabihin simple lang problema ko... haay salamat. sana nga yung sinasabi nyo lang yung problema. tagal na yung tune up ko august pa ata bat ngayon lang nag react? yung vacuum hose na check ko na ok naman nakakabit sya. i tried adjusting the screw, bumaba yung rpm tapos binalik ko bumalik sa dati pero pag on ng aircon 500-600rpm talaga sya kahit nilagy ko na sa 1300 yung rpm pag open ng aircon nagddrop sya sa 600. that whats bothering me. :roll:

[farooq]

corek sila, IDLE-up solenoid ang problema

[CoolGal]

magkano un?

[Kidd636]

When you start the car in the morning (w/o aircon), what's your rpm reading?

[silverA31]

Yo coolgal, I also had idling problems before in my carbed engine and i would just like to share some tips.

1. First of all, carbureted engines are sensitive to changes in weather and altitude. For example, if I had a tune-up at summer and I suddenly went up to Baguio, there's a possibility that the car would not be in tune and you have to do another tune-up at that weather and altitude. Since it is Dec, it's possible that you just need a new tune-up.
2. Dirty carb- using carb cleaner would only reach the externals and the choke and some areas at the mouth of the carb. Passages inside would not be cleaned. To clean this, you have to use a carb cleaner that is mixed with the gas at the tank. This would help cleaning it up further.
3. Vacuum advancer- there are 3 screws that are adjusted at tune-up. The idle up for fuel, the screw for the air and the vacuum advancer. Try adjusting the vacuum advancer with the aircon on and put it at the right RPM. If it doesn't budge, then the vacuum advancer might be busted.
4. Solenoid
Hope this helps, HTH.

[CoolGal]

my mechanic said na yung 2 high tension wires ko e sira na. so kailangan ko na magpalit. bukas pa ko bili kse coding ako today. NGK maganda di ba? pa tune up ko na lang din ulit siguro kaso ok lang ba yun kse sept lang yun last tune up ko? he said also na everything is a-ok except for the wires. the idler is ok naman din daw.

what he did was replace my high tension wires with his tension wires tapos the engine ran smoothly tapos nun binalik yun sakin, nanginig na naman tapos bumaba yun rpm.


Kidd636::: rpm ko is around 1000 to 1100 without aircon but when i reach the normal temperature its 900 without aircon. bumababa habang umiinit yung makina. minsan pag kakastart lang, tapos ni rev ko yung reading aakyat hanggang 1900 tapos mag sstay lang dun tapos i rerev ko ulit babalik na sa normal which is 900. but few days ago pag start pa lang 600 na reading.

[afrasay]

From a cold start during mornings the RPM level is usually higher than normal, this is due to your automatic chock at work. This is to compensate for the cold engine which is usually "nanginginig" . There is a mechanical lever/vacuum connected to the temperature sensor and throttle (carb). When a certain temperature (operating temperature) is attain the lever pushes or pull, depends on the car make. You will feel this sa gas pedal mo. You will notice too that the RPM goes down significantly as you reach the operating temp of your car.

Oh btw, I forgot to tell you to check your ignition coil. If you say that your RPM goes down when your car gets hot then this is one characteristic of an hot coil that's going south.

Try spraying the carb and it's linkages with WD40. You might have a sticking linkages.

Observe your car for a day without aircon. Then another with it on. Keep us posted.

[CoolGal]

napalitan na yung ht wires ko. nilinis yung fuel filter ko. sobrang dumi. inadjust yung air and fuel mixture. ok na sya. :D

kaso ang prob ko naman... bago lang to ha... pag start sa umaga meron tok tok tok na sound sa may clutch pedal. parang may maluwag pero pag ni rev, nawawala, pero pag bumaba yun idling nandun na naman. sabi yun tensioner bearing makalawang na (due for timing belt replacement na din naman kse ako) OR pressure plate daw... :cry: :cry: :cry: kapapalit ko lang nun nung sept. mejo matigas din kse clutch pedal. hydraulic clutch ko.

[afrasay]

CoolGal:::yun pressure plate, clutch disc and release bearing orig parts from casa? Kasi I once change those sa ride ko. Pagkabit maingay. I week na hindi paring naaalis yun ingay and mabigat siya kaysa dati. Ayon, I ended up buying the original clutch disc sa casa and retained my old but still good pressure plate. You can see if a pressure plate is still good buy inspecting the fingers kung may tama o malalim ang kayod ng release bearing.

[Darnoc1003]

Good day mga Guru.

Same problem po sa unit ko (Hyundai Accent 2014 1.4 e cv), bumababa po rpm ng between 750 or 760 once idle ang unit ko, and worst pag pinaandar na ung aircondition talagang bumabagsak ng 600 then may time na namamatay talaga makina. Pumunta na ako ng casa to check it pero sabi nila baka sa ECU daw kasi naka ilaw daw ang Check Engine indicator, di na nila tinuloy ang pag check kasi babalik at babalik lng daw ang issue pag di napalitan or na repair ECU. Ito rin isang problema ko mga master, ang previous owner kasi pinalitan na ng pang 2018 model ang ecu nito tapos di na mahanap and stock ECU, gusto ko palitan ng ECU na matching ang year model ng unit pero di ko alam ano part number ng ECU nito. Any suggestion po mga master.

Thank you so much po sa mga sagot.

[jick.cejoco]

Good day mga Guru.

Same problem po sa unit ko (Hyundai Accent 2014 1.4 e cv), bumababa po rpm ng between 750 or 760 once idle ang unit ko, and worst pag pinaandar na ung aircondition talagang bumabagsak ng 600 then may time na namamatay talaga makina. Pumunta na ako ng casa to check it pero sabi nila baka sa ECU daw kasi naka ilaw daw ang Check Engine indicator, di na nila tinuloy ang pag check kasi babalik at babalik lng daw ang issue pag di napalitan or na repair ECU. Ito rin isang problema ko mga master, ang previous owner kasi pinalitan na ng pang 2018 model ang ecu nito tapos di na mahanap and stock ECU, gusto ko palitan ng ECU na matching ang year model ng unit pero di ko alam ano part number ng ECU nito. Any suggestion po mga master.

Thank you so much po sa mga sagot.

The assumption that the vehicle runs on the road, the ECU is more than likely a match. Try cleaning the throttle body and the idle air control valve. You might also need the throttle relearn since you mentioned that the ECU have been replaced.

[GTcervan]

Bakit pinalitan ang ecu? Hindi kaya nasangkot yan dati sa baha?

[Dr.Kamiya]

Many cars with electronic throttle don't have an IACV anymore. I second doing the idle re-learn procedure.