Cold Air Intake

[gearspeed]

yup. may napanaood akong demo dati. supra yata... nilubog yung filter sa tubig...

Hindi ba nasira or something yung sasakyan?

[niky]

It won't. If there's an alternate entry point for air, the engine won't vacuum up water through the CAI. In a sealed system, like, for example, the stock intake of a Nissan Sentra or a Chevrolet Optra, once the main intake tube (very low on these two cars) goes under, the engine vacuums up a ton of water... and that will kill your engine. I'm sure a lot of ex-owners who've lost their engines to floods (lots of dead Optras in Malaysia/Indonesia... count me in as an ex-Sentra owner) wish that the stock system had a bypass.

In the case of a CAI with the bypass, moisture and small droplets of water come in, but they will only be burned off in combustion, and the engine gets some moisture out of the air anyway, that's why you have water coming out of the muffler sometimes.

Of course, the bypass will only work until it gets submerged itself, so you still have to be careful.

[finchy18]

sir niky.. ano po bah talaga advantages ng cold air intake? nka simota ako pero binalik ko stock wla nmang difference.. uhmmmm..

help!

[niky]

For a typical 1.6 to 2.0 car.

If you replace the filter only but use the stock filter box, you can't expect more than 1-2 hp. (K&N original replacement, expensive)

If you replace the filter box with a cone filter (like Simota), you can expect gains of up to 3 hp, K&N's flow very well, and gains may be up to 4-5, depending on how bad the stock system is.

If you replace the filter box and intake tube with a cold air intake (tube extends into the bumper or fender, air filter sits there), you can expect maybe 5hp-7hp increase. (depends on the filter head)

Now, here's the fun part:

If you use a cone filter but put it where the stock filter was, you will lose anywhere between 2-3 hp when it's hot out. Simply because it's not getting any cold air. The stock system has the advantage here because it draws cold air from the corner of the engine bay or from behind the grill.

If that cone filter is a cheaper brand, like Simota... the gains may even be outweighed by the power loss due to heat. In other words, you won't feel any difference in power.

A heat shield helps a little, but even this doesn't do much when it's scorching hot outside.

And given that your power gain may be only -1hp to 1hp, depending on the weather, you won't notice it at all. In cold weather, you might feel a full 3hp if you're lucky.

If it's a cold air intake, you will feel the gains all the time. The upshot is that an aftermarket cold air intake will always have a colder intake charge than the stock cold air intake. The danger here is that the aftermarket intake is vulnerable to floods, as discussed, and if it's metal tubed, it's still vulnerable to heat soak.

Ganoon lang yun. If you don't feel any gains, then the gains are small (1-3 hp) and you really won't notice them. A noticeable gain (for most people) is about 5-8 hp.

For many modern vehicles, the intake tract and stock air filter are very good, and you won't see any appreciable gains in power until you fiddle with the exhaust. But if you decide to get a full exhaust, including headers, the power loss on hot days also becomes more pronounced, unless you get a heat shield or thermal wrap for that, too.

[ssaloon]

colder air means denser air. denser air means more fuel combustion equating to more power.

[ILuvDetailing]

If you replace the filter box with a cone filter (like Simota), you can expect gains of up to 3 hp, K&N's flow very well, and gains may be up to 4-5, depending on how bad the stock system is.

Are you refering to a short RAM?


NMPI did a dyno with a NISMO exhaust and claimed a 15 HP gain (X-trail), with stock intake and headers. Totoo kaya 'to? Don't ask how much, mahal hehehe

[niky]

Yup. Short ram.

I'm skeptical of the 15 hp increase. Does that mean 10whp on the dyno? from just replacing the stock filter? And where on the power curve is it? Midrange? (that can't be top-end)

Take it this way... Most 2.0 engines will see a 15whp (20bhp) increase total at the top end from a short ram intake, headers, midpipe and tambutso (hehehe). It's nearly impossible to get that much from just a short ram.

In fact, the complaint of many aftermarket vendors in the US is that new Nissan engines are hard to get power out of. Case in point, the 350Z. This is a shtonking big 3.5 liter V6. Guess how much power you get from an air intake?

C'mon, do the math and guess. If a 140 hp car can get 5 from a short-ram... 3.5% or so... then a 280 hp engine should get 10 hp, right? Wrong. It gets the same 5 hp. Nissan's new engines and their assorted plumbing are pretty good.

[ILuvDetailing]

I'm skeptical of the 15 hp increase. Does that mean 10whp on the dyno? from just replacing the stock filter? And where on the power curve is it? Midrange? (that can't be top-end)

Sorry, I meant a 15HP gain from the Exhaust alone (not a full exhaust, tambutso lang.), stock headers and intake. I'm kinda skeptical about this claim, but the guy I talked to said that they did a dyno run with the stock exhaust and a nismo exhaust.

Nismo products are pretty darn expensive.

[empy]

^just the can? 15 hp? i call bullshit.

[niky]

He said Exhaust, Headers, Intake. Now that's more believeable, especially considering it's a 2.5. I think you could do better with different aftermarket headers, but I'm not sure products made for the Sentra version of the engine will fit the X-Trail.

[ILuvDetailing]

Niky: 2.0 sakin well anyway thats beside the point. Well if there's only a 1HP gain for the dropin K&N I think am sticking with the OEM for only 300++ bucks or maybe get a CAI down the road.

[niky]

A CAI would be very easy to fabricate for the X-Trail, but it will take away from your water-fording capabilities (the primary reason to buy a CUV over a sedan).

For more power/efficiency, the best bang-for-buck is still a good set of headers. You just have to insulate them afterwards to make sure they don't make your engine bay too hot.

[ILuvDetailing]

Thanks for the tip. I'll keep that in mind. :D

[finchy18]

thanx niky! clearly said..

Stock nlang ako. :lol:

[sparcom]

question lang po? paano naging cold air intake yung mga racing filter kung nakaexposed din sila sa loob ng hood? iniisip ko lang kasi yung mga nakikita ko racing filter nalalanghap nila yung init ng makina especially sa traffic... hindi ba ito masama sa makina?

[Mamar]

paano naging cold air intake yung mga racing filter kung nakaexposed din sila sa loob ng hood?

Wala sa sa loob ng engine bay! kadalasan ang filter ng cold air intake eh nakalagay sa may bumper

[niky]

Yung nasa loob ng bay, ang tawag doon Warm Air Intake, basically, cone filter lang either with or without aftermarket tube.

And yes, it really sucks in traffic. If you put one on, you have to make the tube as long as possible, and keep the filter as far as possible from the engine. A heat shield helps some, but after an hour in traffic, it's all the same.

No, it's not necessarily bad for the engine to ingest hot air, considering the engine runs much hotter than ambient temperatures, but the engine will make much less power once heat soak sets in.

[batang_raon14]

sorry to revive this thread - highly considering having CAI installed on my car - unfortunately Fusion R is too far from my place. Does anyone know where I can source one out here in the South / Makati area? And magkano na kaya ang aabutin ngayon ng install assuming all-stock pa ang mechanicals (air filter included)?

EDIT: will be requiring the heat shield and bypass valves as well in the install.

[piepie]

for what car? intakes are almost all the same.

Hi po hindi po kasi ako makapagstart ng thread actually wala naman ako masyado alam sa Car I drive my husbands car unfortunately sumabit yung bumper sa malaking bato kaya natupi yun left side na ilalim ng bumper can somebody suggest if san may affordable na restoration for our Porshac ( car ) accent. Thank you, your reply will be much appreciated.

Salamat ng marami.

[jick.cejoco]

to drop intake air temperature without having to compromise the possibility of the engine ingesting large doses of water in the rain or flood, you can have an extension of the suction side hose between the connection at the firewall and the compressor low side. an aluminum coil or loop inside the intake tube will drop the intake air charge a few degrees fahrenheit. taking advantage of the residual "coldness" of the refrigerant before it returns back to the compressor does not take up energy.