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  1. Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    135
    #21
    safe ka na sa every 5k change oil dude!

  2. Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    82
    #22
    maski full syn? kasi may nagsabi sa'kin na pag full syn pwedeng 10K eh...

    pero i guess i'll go with changing oil every 5K km.. better safe than sorry...

  3. Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    1,311
    #23
    On our cars we change every 1 year... Havent had any problems. On my accord its fully synthetic, its been driven about 8k kms since its last oil change last july...

  4. Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Posts
    3,012
    #24
    ako, every 6 months ang palit ko sa pajero, mobil 1 5w50. whether i run 5k kms or not, but kung tumakbo na me ng 5k kms in les than 6 months, palit na but that has never happened yet.

  5. Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    197
    #25
    change oil every 5000 kms,
    if vehicle didnt reach 5000 kms in a yr, change oil every 6 months

  6. Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    36
    #26
    Anong best na ma-rerecommend nyong engine oil for 6A12 n/a engine? Someone told me na di recommended ang fully synthetic oils for old cars? Thanks!

  7. Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Posts
    10,819
    #27
    anyone experienced a decrease in mileage using full synthetic oil? medyo bumaba kasi mileage ko. or is it because before i used to change spark plugs at the same time i change oil (every 5k km with mineral oil) and since 8.5k km na hindi pa napalitan so it's the plugs and not the oil? pero para kasi since i filled in fully synthetic oil (sa shell station, forgot the brand) bumaba compute ko ng mileage e.

  8. Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Posts
    14,822
    #28
    yebo...

    ano ba ang dati mong langis?

    ganyan sa akin... oil ko before is havoline energy synthetic (fuel-conserving naman kasi siya). mga around 9 km/L ako dati. nung nag synthetic ako mga 8-8.5 km/L na ang readings ko.

  9. Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    3,848
    #29
    your milage probably went down because of the change (if at all) of the viscosity of the oil, and not the kind (mineral, semi or full syn). thicker oils will tend to put a little bit more strain on the engine causing it to be worse with the milage.

    learn how to pick the correct viscosity for your car... to thick or too thin is bad for the engine.

  10. Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    3,848
    #30
    by the way, older cars can benefit from more protection so full syn oils are ok too. again, the common misconception is that synthetic oils cause leaks, etc... but this is probably because the shop you go to recommended the incorrect viscosity (or that the seals were about to give up anyway...)

  11. Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    641
    #31
    Quote Originally Posted by speedyfix
    your milage probably went down because of the change (if at all) of the viscosity of the oil, and not the kind (mineral, semi or full syn). thicker oils will tend to put a little bit more strain on the engine causing it to be worse with the milage.

    learn how to pick the correct viscosity for your car... to thick or too thin is bad for the engine.
    What brand/viscosity would best suit a 99 Civic Vti? I'm after increase in mileage too. Also, a change interval of 5K Kms is good for me but I would prefer trying 10K as long as it benefits me and my engine.

    I'm not really familiar with viscosity so I don't know how thick or thin I should put in my engine. Does it depend solely on the engine type? Shell synthetic oil or the Casa Oil (can't remember the viscosity) is usually being used on my scheduled maintenance. I tried the 10K Kms oil of Casa but I feel that their regular or ordinary oil perform much better.

  12. Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Posts
    1,621
    #32
    according to an article i read (linked from here!) all engine oils have a design viscosity of 10 at operating temperature. So it's not true that a 20W50 is "thicker" than a 10W30. They are both 10 at operating temperature. The 20W50 is "thicker" than the 10W30 at LOW temperatures. Which only happens when you're cranking the car. Even in subzero temperatures the engine will be at 100* Celsius or higher (of course! due to combustion..)

  13. Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    3,848
    #33
    uhm, that is definitely not true...

    why would manufacturers make a multigrade oil kung parehas lang pala lahat ng oil once they get operational? kung ganun dapat monograde nalang. the very fact that there are 2 viscosities (i.e. 10w40) means that the oil flows differently in different conditions.

    10w40, 5w50, 0w40, 10w30, etc etc etc... will all have different characteristics and will suit different engines.

    best bet would be to look at the manual of the car and see what the engine recommends.

    try doing more research narin about oil. there are also lots of other facts such as what the base stock is made from, it being ester based or non ester, how strong the detergent properties are (i.e. race oil has hardly any detergent qualities which means it can't be used for a prolonged time on the road), etc which will show you the quality of the oil and how much research and development went into it.

    this whole oil thing isn't as simple as it seems...

    goodluck.

  14. Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    10
    #34
    well to be exactly sure all I do here in Africa,Schedule Oil Sample,for this I know when will be the next oil change depending on the quality of oil we use. Sa Philippines.I do it at 5000 km

  15. Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    10
    #35
    well to be exactly sure all I do here in Africa,Schedule Oil Sample,for this I know when will be the next oil change depending on the quality of oil we use.

  16. Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Posts
    1,621
    #36
    speedyfix,

    actually it seems that detergency etc. these days is all the same. it's hard to find an oil that isn't SL-CF rated. the point in the article that i read was that, using a swankier oil will HELP YOUR ENGINE AT LOW TEMPERATURES. that was the only point i was trying to make. at operating temperature, ALL OTHER THINGS (e.g. detergency) being equal, both oils will perform in roughly the same way. Of course at elevated temperatures like in a high-revving car or a force-inducted car the second number will then come into play. At that point, yes, a 20W50 WOULD be thicker than a 0W30. But under NORMAL operating circumstances, they'd both be viscosity 10.

    Of course it's generally also true that all things are not equal, e.g. a swanky synthetic oil would have better detergency ratings than a lowly mineral oil. But I've seen mineral oils with SL ratings. Although meron pa ring SJ...

  17. Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    3,848
    #37
    ok dude, now i get your point

  18. Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Posts
    14
    #38
    i change oil every 5 thousand km or at least once a year which ever comes first.
    i use elf synthese fully synthetic for my gasoline engines and elf performance trophy for my diesel engines.

  19. Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    546
    #39
    Revx, pinakamura binibili ko, wala ako na pansin pag kaiba sa mamahalin engine oil para sa diesel,

    every 3k km or 3 months palit Oil filter at oil, total expenses for oil change 500 pesos, so it makes sense magpalit lagi , kesa mag synthetic ako.


    parang tapon sa pera ang synthetic, unless i sagad mo isang taon ang change oil mo hehehe pero medyo delikado ka na dun.
    Last edited by Mojo; June 25th, 2005 at 08:15 PM.

  20. Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    233
    #40
    Meron na ba sa inyo gumamit ng Top Oil synthetic motor oil? Feedback naman po. Tempted akong gumamit dahil mura siya compared with other brands.
    Last edited by ET1; June 27th, 2005 at 12:07 PM.

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