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  1. Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Posts
    10,819
    #21
    Quote Originally Posted by earthlyken View Post
    Good day,

    thank you guys for inputs, sorry mali pala ako pagkaintindi sa foreman ko, yung mga biga pala sinasabi niya na 1 side muna then after 2 days tangal na yung box then lipat sa kabilang side na biga naman, then after 2 days ay mag foform naraw sila para sa floor slab na..


    another question po is the stability to prevent cracks and leak, kasi sabi niya 1 side nila bubuhusan yung floor slab hangang sa hati ng biga then next day ulit the other side..

    ok lang ba yung ganun procedure? or they really need to finish the buhos the entire day?

    regarding sa cement mixer, sabi ng foreman ko wag naraw..para makatipid, kaya naman raw ng manual...

    worry kolang kung baka magkaproblema ako sa katagalan kung half half yung buhos nila sa floor slab?

    more inputs guys..TIA
    mali pa din e. dapat sabay ang buhos ng slab at biga para isang curing time lang. concrete heats up when curing. this heating up causes joints to be at different temperatures, and causes cracks after cooling down. minsanan dapat ang buhos nyan.

  2. Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    8,555
    #22
    ^ I think what he means is "poste".

    Yes, the biga (vertical beams) and the slab should/must be poured together in one go.

  3. Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    74
    #23
    Ang alam ko dyan, mas maganda pag isang buhos lang para sabay matuyo. Magkaka problema kasi yan later on duon sa dugtong, pag di sabay natuyo, Nagkakaroon ng seepage at crack, lalo na kung exposed sa elements yan.(as in deck)

  4. Join Date
    Aug 2006
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    383
    #24
    Ang sabi sakin ng foreman ko is bubuhusan nila yung biga 3/4 leaving naka expose yung top bar para dun nila tataliin yung pag form ng floor slab (2 layers raw 12mm yung 1st layer then 10mm yung 2nd layer) then pag naka form naraw yung floor slab, tsaka nila bubuhan sabay sabay yung 1/4 ng bigay ang the rest of the slab..

    ok ba yung ganun procedure? hinde naman raw mag crack yun kasi nasa tama naman yung mga bar sabi ng foreman ko..

    sana naintindihan niyo explanation ko..

  5. Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    473
    #25
    Replace your contractor sir.

  6. Join Date
    Jul 2006
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    #26
    Quote Originally Posted by earthlyken View Post
    Ang sabi sakin ng foreman ko is bubuhusan nila yung biga 3/4 leaving naka expose yung top bar para dun nila tataliin yung pag form ng floor slab (2 layers raw 12mm yung 1st layer then 10mm yung 2nd layer) then pag naka form naraw yung floor slab, tsaka nila bubuhan sabay sabay yung 1/4 ng bigay ang the rest of the slab..

    ok ba yung ganun procedure? hinde naman raw mag crack yun kasi nasa tama naman yung mga bar sabi ng foreman ko..

    sana naintindihan niyo explanation ko..
    Nakupo ... ampaw yan boss!

    Dapat dyan isang buhos lang talaga (biga + slab)

  7. Join Date
    Oct 2002
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    #27
    Quote Originally Posted by earthlyken View Post
    Ang sabi sakin ng foreman ko is bubuhusan nila yung biga 3/4 leaving naka expose yung top bar para dun nila tataliin yung pag form ng floor slab (2 layers raw 12mm yung 1st layer then 10mm yung 2nd layer) then pag naka form naraw yung floor slab, tsaka nila bubuhan sabay sabay yung 1/4 ng bigay ang the rest of the slab..

    ok ba yung ganun procedure? hinde naman raw mag crack yun kasi nasa tama naman yung mga bar sabi ng foreman ko..

    sana naintindihan niyo explanation ko..
    mali nga e. palitan mo na yang bopol na yan. pag natapos na trabaho at pumutok yang semento after 1 year ano yan saka mo papaulit sa kanya? fire the idiot before he causes you to lose your hard earned money. or worse, causes an accident in your new house.

  8. Join Date
    Mar 2010
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    2,209
    #28
    as the owner, pwede mo naman iinsist kung ano ang gusto mo.

  9. Join Date
    Oct 2002
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    17,338
    #29
    If i recall correctly from a previous post, the TS did not hire a contractor to build their house and got a foreman instead to oversee the workers?

  10. Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    383
    #30
    Hello everyone,

    Thank you for all your inputs... i did force the foreman to do the pouring of slab and columns all at 1 and they did it.

    how long would it take para makapag asintada na sila sa 2nd floor po? is 2 days after the buhos enough? or do i need to wait for 1 week to them to start doing the asintada of the hollow blocks?

    other question, regarding open terrace with no roof, what do you guys recommend...plain cement with sahara and painted with water proof paint? or tiles?

    TIA po..

  11. Join Date
    Oct 2002
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    #31
    beside cement with sahara you should really put waterproofing material. para sigurado kasi pag nag-crack yang cement tutulo yan. even ceramic tiles is no guarantee that it will not leak, expecially if the cement develops cracks (due to expansion/contraction as the temperature changes during the day, or earthquake). dapat para sigurado cement with sahara, then waterproofing sheet, then cement with sahara again (manipis na lang mga 1 inch). parang asphalt sheets yung waterproofing material.

    pero kung tipid, cement with sahara, then makapal na elastomeric paint o kaya yung rubberized paint na gamit sa car park ng malls.

  12. Join Date
    Oct 2002
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    17,338
    #32
    ^ Agree on this. Basic cement + Sahara + waterproof coating. Make sure also maganda yung slope to the drains (better also to be overkill on the drains).

    On tiles or rubberized paint, tiles if you're after better aesthetics but do choose tiles that are not slippery when wet.

  13. Join Date
    Aug 2006
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    383
    #33
    Thank you guys for all the inputs..do you guys have any idea on the pricing ng tile? Where planning to put 40x40 yung size..magkano kaya po per piece nun?

  14. Join Date
    Oct 2002
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    10,819
    #34
    depende sa tiles, meron mga local (filhispano, etc) mura lang. meron imported na mura at meron din mahal. depende sa design, finish and quality. better pasyal ka na lang sa wilcon or home depot para makita mo kung anong design at yung tugma sa budget mo.

    prices for 40x40cm can vary from as low as P30 each to as high as P300 or more.

  15. Join Date
    Sep 2004
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    2,975
    #35
    Don't fall for the cheap China-made tiles which cost less that Php 25.00 a pop (8X10 yata ang size nun). It may look good at first, but in a span of 1 year, mabilis mag-fade and stain easily. Learned this lesson the hard way.

    Go for the branded ones (Mariwasa, Eurotiles, etc.). Also, better to use tile adhesive than plain old cement, although old-fashioned installers may tell you otherwise.

  16. Join Date
    Oct 2002
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    #36
    Quote Originally Posted by Galactus View Post
    Don't fall for the cheap China-made tiles which cost less that Php 25.00 a pop (8X10 yata ang size nun). It may look good at first, but in a span of 1 year, mabilis mag-fade and stain easily. Learned this lesson the hard way.

    Go for the branded ones (Mariwasa, Eurotiles, etc.). Also, better to use tile adhesive than plain old cement, although old-fashioned installers may tell you otherwise.
    And the cheap China tiles usually have inconsistent thickness which will give your tiler a PITA.

  17. Join Date
    Jul 2006
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    #37
    Quote Originally Posted by vinj View Post
    ^ Agree on this. Basic cement + Sahara + waterproof coating. Make sure also maganda yung slope to the drains (better also to be overkill on the drains).
    + 1

    And I added Morta-seal into the mix. Better be safe than sorry.

    Re: Tiles, go to Wilcon Depot in Filinvest Alabang, they sell a wide variety of tile brands to choose from. Tile brands: Grespania is my brand of choice.

  18. Join Date
    Jul 2011
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    1,711
    #38
    Quote Originally Posted by earthlyken View Post
    Thank you guys for all the inputs..do you guys have any idea on the pricing ng tile? Where planning to put 40x40 yung size..magkano kaya po per piece nun?
    Sir hindi po advisable na mabilad ang tiles, me tendency po na mag crack ito. Baka gusto mo ung finish na ginagamitan ng pebbles (wash-out finish).

    Also, based on experience ung roof slab in the long run (minsan kahit bago pa) nagkakaroon ng hairline cracks at napapasukan ng tubig, which will cause ng pagtulo sa ilalim or worse kakalawangin ung reinforcemnt bars mo at later makikita mo na lang pumuputok ung kisame (cement finish) dahil nag expand na ung rebars.

    Kung kaya pa ng budget mo palagyan mo na lang ng bubong, then saka mo palagyan ng tiles.

    Kung final na ung slab mo at hindi mo lalagyan ng bubong, make sure na hindi maiipunan ng tubig ung ibabaw otherwise sakit ng ulo mo yan.

  19. Join Date
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    #39
    Quote Originally Posted by Manilablock View Post
    Sir hindi po advisable na mabilad ang tiles, me tendency po na mag crack ito. Baka gusto mo ung finish na ginagamitan ng pebbles (wash-out finish).

    Ay, roofdeck pala? I had mine coated with elastomeric paint. 4 coats (initial) para matibay, and recoat nalang every year before the rainy season.

  20. Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    6,104
    #40
    Magk-crack yun pag hindi maganda ang semento, or yung mix mismo ng aggregates. Class AA mix dapat or better (ASTM spec) pag slab.

    Anyway, make sure na everything goes down the drain immediately and no pooling of water. Also watch out for water track. Saan ba yan pupunta pag nanjan na.

    Elastomeric works as a sealant but you can also use bituminous membrane.

    Good luck with your foreman. Nakakatakot yang ginawa mo that you hired an amateur for your own house.

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Slab concrete pouring