Mazda B-Series (B2200/B2500)

[duskylim]

Dear Sirs:

Addendum to my previous post. I actually timed the glow period and its only 3 to 4 seconds pala. Oops my mistake, sorry. You probably shouldn't glow for longer than 5 to 6 seconds in all, or you will burn out your glow plugs.

Also, if you have to crank for a long time to start, pero after starting there are no clouds of white smoke, then it is quite likely you have AIR in the fuel lines.

That air has to be purged completely in order for your starting to be quick. I should know it happened to me recently after nagpalit ako ng fuel filter - napasukan sya ng hangin and it took forever to start.

Another problem air in the fuel system creates is lack of power. When there is an air leak your engine looses power and becomes weak, mahina humila in every gear, and occasionally it will even misfire badly.

The only good way to purge the system of air is with a manual hand pump. Believe you me, once you do so, magiiba ang TAKBO ng diesel mo, bigla na lang wala syang bitin and napakalas humila. So its definitely worth it.

Regards,

Dusky Lim

[rna800]

*duskylim: That glow thing in my truck takes about 8 seconds before it disappears and it has been like that since almost a year ago, I think. I just hope that those do not get busted anytime soon. As far as I know, I haven't replaced its glow plugs but it has been overhauled twice already so I don't know if they replaced it or not.

Do you happen to know a shop that sells if not original, quality b2500 parts? I replaced my clutch disc, pressure plate and release bearing last March 08 since the truck judders if it moves from a standstill position. Fast forward to last week, my truck starts to judder again, though not that much yet specially if I pre heat it for about 3 mins prior to moving, but I presume that the clutch is worn out again. The car really shakes wildly, specially on reverse if I move it without pre heating for a long period of time. For its running condition, I don't really find it weak yet and as I have said, once it has pre heated, it's good again.

Now, if in any way it is the clutch again, I think I have to scout for reputable shops and buy it myself from now on since it's so hard to imagine that a clutch could wear out in less than a year considering that it has only travelled roughly 30k kms in that span of time. The thing that makes my blood boil is that my friend in Richmond, the one responsible in buying the parts, he is not the mechanic, already knew that it was the same clutch brand that they put prior and didn't also last long and it was the same brand again that put last year. Now what I will do is just buy the parts on my own and have them install it. At least it could save me money from the dreaded mark up that they put in parts.

[rna800]

*duskylim: That glow thing in my truck takes about 8 seconds before it disappears and it has been like that since almost a year ago, I think. I just hope that those do not get busted anytime soon. As far as I know, I haven't replaced its glow plugs but it has been overhauled twice already so I don't know if they replaced it or not.

Do you happen to know a shop that sells if not original, quality b2500 parts? I replaced my clutch disc, pressure plate and release bearing last March 08 since the truck judders if it moves from a standstill position. Fast forward to last week, my truck starts to judder again, though not that much yet specially if I pre heat it for about 3 mins prior to moving, but I presume that the clutch is worn out again. The car really shakes wildly, specially on reverse if I move it without pre heating for a long period of time. For its running condition, I don't really find it weak yet and as I have said, once it has pre heated, it's good again.

Now, if in any way it is the clutch again, I think I have to scout for reputable shops and buy it myself from now on since it's so hard to imagine that a clutch could wear out in less than a year considering that it has only travelled roughly 30k kms in that span of time. The thing that makes my blood boil is that my friend in Richmond, the one responsible in buying the parts, he is not the mechanic, already knew that it was the same clutch brand that they put prior and didn't also last long and it was the same brand again that put last year. Now what I will do is just buy the parts on my own and have them install it. At least it could save me money from the dreaded mark up that they put in parts.

[rna800]

Do you happen to know any shops that sell a stepboard for b2500 or do you know anyone who could fix those? My stepboards are not properly bolted anymore since the holes where they were attached got bigger and they couldn't hold those screws anymore plus the black part of my stepboards are already shattered making it a little bit an eyesore.

[duskylim]

Dear rna800:

Glowing for more than 6-7 seconds tends to shorten the life of the glow plugs, one way to get longer life is to use plugs with a HIGHER voltage rating, about 12 - 12.5 volts. That value is stamped on the plug body.

A longer glow plug tip also helps with starting, it penetrates deeper into the combustion chamber and can reach more fuel and air. Don't go overboard however, 2 to 3 mm longer is about the limit.

With respect to original Mazda parts, well, medyo mahirap. Even when my truck was relatively new, Francisco Motors itself would use replacement parts during repairs. And they did not even want you to see the actual repair - tago sila, they keep you in a lousy customer lounge with bad coffee.

You have to get good parts from reputable suppliers, I recommend Fordland on Banawe, and Fordmaster on C.M. Recto (near Benavidez St.). Some replacement parts are OK. For instance, I used replacement brake master and wheel cylinder repair kits at buhay pa naman ako.

When it comes to underchassis and transmission parts, did you know that the B2500 shares the same parts with the B2200? Kaya kapag bumibili ka, sabihin mo para sa B2200 - mas mura pa!

I did that with my clutch master and slave, I replaced both ASSEMBLIES with replacement parts after binaha ako sa may UST. Again, buhay pa naman ako.

Regarding the shop charges for spare parts, I go to a trusted friend for repairs, and I know he's good, so I always buy and bring the spare parts.

Pagdating sa makina duon ka mahuhuli, the engines of the B2500 and B2200 are NOT the same, at duon sila babawe.

Napipilitan lang ako bumili kapag nagpapagawa ako sa casa, but even then there are some (like DELTA Motors beneath Delta theater along Quezon ave) that will let you bring the spare parts - wala lang warrantee ang gawa.

If you go to DELTA - look for James, ok sya umasikaso sa customer.

Now the juddering could just be that singaw na clutch hydraulics mo. Have them checked carefully - magaling DELTA dyan. My dad, who rides the clutch is a regular customer of theirs - naka tatlong palit na sya ng hydraulics on a 1995 Toyota HiLux, all because of his clutch riding.

Have it checked first BEFORE proceeding with dismantling and replacement of the clutch again. And you're right, sobrang mabilis ang isang taon para magpalit ng lining - I've used my own pickup to haul cement, sand, soil and gravel nung ginagaw bahay namin and I still have the ORIGINAL clutch disc and pressure plate.

Please let me know what happened.

Regards,

Dusky Lim

[rna800]

Dear rna800:

Glowing for more than 6-7 seconds tends to shorten the life of the glow plugs, one way to get longer life is to use plugs with a HIGHER voltage rating, about 12 - 12.5 volts. That value is stamped on the plug body.

A longer glow plug tip also helps with starting, it penetrates deeper into the combustion chamber and can reach more fuel and air. Don't go overboard however, 2 to 3 mm longer is about the limit.

With respect to original Mazda parts, well, medyo mahirap. Even when my truck was relatively new, Francisco Motors itself would use replacement parts during repairs. And they did not even want you to see the actual repair - tago sila, they keep you in a lousy customer lounge with bad coffee.

You have to get good parts from reputable suppliers, I recommend Fordland on Banawe, and Fordmaster on C.M. Recto (near Benavidez St.). Some replacement parts are OK. For instance, I used replacement brake master and wheel cylinder repair kits at buhay pa naman ako.

When it comes to underchassis and transmission parts, did you know that the B2500 shares the same parts with the B2200? Kaya kapag bumibili ka, sabihin mo para sa B2200 - mas mura pa!

I did that with my clutch master and slave, I replaced both ASSEMBLIES with replacement parts after binaha ako sa may UST. Again, buhay pa naman ako.

Regarding the shop charges for spare parts, I go to a trusted friend for repairs, and I know he's good, so I always buy and bring the spare parts.

Pagdating sa makina duon ka mahuhuli, the engines of the B2500 and B2200 are NOT the same, at duon sila babawe.

Napipilitan lang ako bumili kapag nagpapagawa ako sa casa, but even then there are some (like DELTA Motors beneath Delta theater along Quezon ave) that will let you bring the spare parts - wala lang warrantee ang gawa.

If you go to DELTA - look for James, ok sya umasikaso sa customer.

Now the juddering could just be that singaw na clutch hydraulics mo. Have them checked carefully - magaling DELTA dyan. My dad, who rides the clutch is a regular customer of theirs - naka tatlong palit na sya ng hydraulics on a 1995 Toyota HiLux, all because of his clutch riding.

Have it checked first BEFORE proceeding with dismantling and replacement of the clutch again. And you're right, sobrang mabilis ang isang taon para magpalit ng lining - I've used my own pickup to haul cement, sand, soil and gravel nung ginagaw bahay namin and I still have the ORIGINAL clutch disc and pressure plate.

Please let me know what happened.

Regards,

Dusky Lim

For that glow thing, what do you call that by the way?hehe Back to topic, it used to be around 3 to 4 seconds only then it disappears. After being overhauled, I noticed that it takes about 8 seconds before it disappears. It has been like that for almost a year so I guess it is normal. It is just now that it should not be the case. Good thing is my truck still starts with one click even if I don't use it for a day or two.

This is what I don't like with this truck, it so hard to find a dealer to have this serviced since Sunny Motors/Francisco Motors in Q. Ave closed after about 2 years after acquiring this truck from them. I needed to find a reputable shop to have it serviced. Good thing I already found one and they have been my shop for 3 or 4 years already. Maybe I would try Delta next time. I didn't know that shop is still operating. That is where I used to buy my break pads and yup, their shop doesn't look inviting.

I also experienced that when it comes to buying parts that when I say b2500, they will say b2200. As long as it fits and works properly, then fine by me. I would try that Fordland next time but I guess that is where my trusted shops buys since the original fuel filter that they put in mine was from Ford. What I didn't like is the very high mark up that they put wherein I could have bought it myself.

Do you happen to know where I could buy a stepboard for b2500? It should be in good condition. I know it is going to be hard to find one since that model is old and I believe that no shops have that style anymore.

Thanks!

[duskylim]

Dear rna800:

The longer glow plug is for the WL-31T (turbo version of the WL-31) which is installed on the Ford Ranger Pinatubo edition. Its about 2 -3 mm longer than the stock plugs for the WL-31.

Valve and piston interference is not a problem as the plug goes into the turbulence chamber, away from those moving parts.

As to the stepboard, I haven't had any big problems with them. Cguro dahil di ko ipinapatapak! He he he. They were factory installed so I always had them.

If you need larger screws to anchor them you can buy those along Tomas Mapua and Recto Avenues in Manila, at any of the To Suy branches. They will have larger sizes of the screws used to anchor them.

There are some shops along Banawe (on the Orthopedic Hospital side) which carry things like stepboards, but I don't know anybody specific.

Regards,

Dusky Lim

[duskylim]

Dear lnce420:

The short answer to your question is YES! the only real difference between the 4x4 and 4x2 versions of the B2500 is the four-wheel drive transmission, transfer case, and the lockable front differential, with the electronic controls using the buttons in the dashboard.

If you read the owner's manual, it identifies all the controls for 4wd.

Best Regards,

Dusky Lim

PS will keep you posted kung nakahanap na ako ng makina.

PPS To all people interested in a product demo, I thing Devil's Own will demo their Water-Alcohol injection system at Speedlab (across from Pegasus!) along Quezon Avenue, this coming March or April. Will keep you posted. I will be there, we can EB.

[rna800]

Dear rna800:

The longer glow plug is for the WL-31T (turbo version of the WL-31) which is installed on the Ford Ranger Pinatubo edition. Its about 2 -3 mm longer than the stock plugs for the WL-31.

Valve and piston interference is not a problem as the plug goes into the turbulence chamber, away from those moving parts.

As to the stepboard, I haven't had any big problems with them. Cguro dahil di ko ipinapatapak! He he he. They were factory installed so I always had them.

If you need larger screws to anchor them you can buy those along Tomas Mapua and Recto Avenues in Manila, at any of the To Suy branches. They will have larger sizes of the screws used to anchor them.

There are some shops along Banawe (on the Orthopedic Hospital side) which carry things like stepboards, but I don't know anybody specific.

Regards,

Dusky Lim

I know shops that sell stepboards like Carryboy, Ride Inc and Goldcars but I don't remember seeing like ours. Maybe I will try to look for that when I have time. Good for you that your stepboards are still good.hehe

[youngrider]

Salamat naman at buhay na buhay pa ang thread about these vehicles. Mga bro. baka pwede nyo i-post yung technical or service references ng mga engine natin. For ex:

Mazda B2200

Engine: Mazda R2, 2.2L diesel engine identical with HW2.2 kia engine of 2.2 kia Besta, can be replaced with RF turbo or non-turbo engine with minimal modification.

Engine oil capacity: 7.2 liters (full capacity) 15W-40 SAE CF minimum, I
add only about 6.5 liters after oil change,then adjust
as needed. I use Petron Rev-x trekker, or Seaoil
Deomax (SAE15W40 API CI) mura kasi.

Transmission oil: GL-4 SAE 90 *2.2L
Differential oil: GL-5 SAE 90 *1.2L (I use US GL-5 gear oil from Flying-V)

Coolant: 9 liters full drain, about 4 liters in the radiator and reservoir.
Oil filters: Bosch OF407/Vics 406,407, Vics 506/Daiwa DC 506 bypass
Timing Belt: R2/HW2.2 *164 teeth, RF *162 teeth
Fan Belt: Bando 3430, Mitsuboshi 6430
Aircon belt: Bando 3360
Air Filter: K&N part E-2536

Fuel injection pressure: 140 bars or 2030 PSI (my injectors are calibrated
at this pressure)

Fuel Consumption: not less than 10km/L w/aircon, my best FC is 16km/L H-way *70 to 90 km/hr

Engine noise/exhaust smoke? a little less than Isuzu(crosswind) but more than Mits 4D56.

Have recurrent problems with oil leaks around the valve cover?... Use original Valve cover gasket (kia or mazda) put red silicone to valve cover gasket groove, let it skin, place gasket in the valve cover, put red silicone over the valve cover gasket as well as to the half moon area (more on the corners where the rubber plugs meets the cylinderhead) let it skin, replaced the valve cover over the cylinder head.

Both the valve cover gasket groove and the clylinder head surface must be free of dirt and oil by wiping with denatured alcohol. Dry for 24 hours before running the engine.

Original thermostat valve opens at 88C, I replaced mine with 82C. Use glycol/distilled water mix for coolant never with tap water or distilled water alone. In lieu of glycol based coolant you can use anticorrosion additive like Seaoil coolant *P95 bottle, 1 bot is enough for R2 engine.

kindly correct any mistakes that you notice.