Mazda B-Series (B2200/B2500)

[duskylim]

Dear Sirs:

Addendum to my previous post. I actually timed the glow period and its only 3 to 4 seconds pala. Oops my mistake, sorry. You probably shouldn't glow for longer than 5 to 6 seconds in all, or you will burn out your glow plugs.

Also, if you have to crank for a long time to start, pero after starting there are no clouds of white smoke, then it is quite likely you have AIR in the fuel lines.

That air has to be purged completely in order for your starting to be quick. I should know it happened to me recently after nagpalit ako ng fuel filter - napasukan sya ng hangin and it took forever to start.

Another problem air in the fuel system creates is lack of power. When there is an air leak your engine looses power and becomes weak, mahina humila in every gear, and occasionally it will even misfire badly.

The only good way to purge the system of air is with a manual hand pump. Believe you me, once you do so, magiiba ang TAKBO ng diesel mo, bigla na lang wala syang bitin and napakalas humila. So its definitely worth it.

Regards,

Dusky Lim

[rna800]

*duskylim: That glow thing in my truck takes about 8 seconds before it disappears and it has been like that since almost a year ago, I think. I just hope that those do not get busted anytime soon. As far as I know, I haven't replaced its glow plugs but it has been overhauled twice already so I don't know if they replaced it or not.

Do you happen to know a shop that sells if not original, quality b2500 parts? I replaced my clutch disc, pressure plate and release bearing last March 08 since the truck judders if it moves from a standstill position. Fast forward to last week, my truck starts to judder again, though not that much yet specially if I pre heat it for about 3 mins prior to moving, but I presume that the clutch is worn out again. The car really shakes wildly, specially on reverse if I move it without pre heating for a long period of time. For its running condition, I don't really find it weak yet and as I have said, once it has pre heated, it's good again.

Now, if in any way it is the clutch again, I think I have to scout for reputable shops and buy it myself from now on since it's so hard to imagine that a clutch could wear out in less than a year considering that it has only travelled roughly 30k kms in that span of time. The thing that makes my blood boil is that my friend in Richmond, the one responsible in buying the parts, he is not the mechanic, already knew that it was the same clutch brand that they put prior and didn't also last long and it was the same brand again that put last year. Now what I will do is just buy the parts on my own and have them install it. At least it could save me money from the dreaded mark up that they put in parts.

[rna800]

*duskylim: That glow thing in my truck takes about 8 seconds before it disappears and it has been like that since almost a year ago, I think. I just hope that those do not get busted anytime soon. As far as I know, I haven't replaced its glow plugs but it has been overhauled twice already so I don't know if they replaced it or not.

Do you happen to know a shop that sells if not original, quality b2500 parts? I replaced my clutch disc, pressure plate and release bearing last March 08 since the truck judders if it moves from a standstill position. Fast forward to last week, my truck starts to judder again, though not that much yet specially if I pre heat it for about 3 mins prior to moving, but I presume that the clutch is worn out again. The car really shakes wildly, specially on reverse if I move it without pre heating for a long period of time. For its running condition, I don't really find it weak yet and as I have said, once it has pre heated, it's good again.

Now, if in any way it is the clutch again, I think I have to scout for reputable shops and buy it myself from now on since it's so hard to imagine that a clutch could wear out in less than a year considering that it has only travelled roughly 30k kms in that span of time. The thing that makes my blood boil is that my friend in Richmond, the one responsible in buying the parts, he is not the mechanic, already knew that it was the same clutch brand that they put prior and didn't also last long and it was the same brand again that put last year. Now what I will do is just buy the parts on my own and have them install it. At least it could save me money from the dreaded mark up that they put in parts.

[rna800]

Do you happen to know any shops that sell a stepboard for b2500 or do you know anyone who could fix those? My stepboards are not properly bolted anymore since the holes where they were attached got bigger and they couldn't hold those screws anymore plus the black part of my stepboards are already shattered making it a little bit an eyesore.

[duskylim]

Dear rna800:

Glowing for more than 6-7 seconds tends to shorten the life of the glow plugs, one way to get longer life is to use plugs with a HIGHER voltage rating, about 12 - 12.5 volts. That value is stamped on the plug body.

A longer glow plug tip also helps with starting, it penetrates deeper into the combustion chamber and can reach more fuel and air. Don't go overboard however, 2 to 3 mm longer is about the limit.

With respect to original Mazda parts, well, medyo mahirap. Even when my truck was relatively new, Francisco Motors itself would use replacement parts during repairs. And they did not even want you to see the actual repair - tago sila, they keep you in a lousy customer lounge with bad coffee.

You have to get good parts from reputable suppliers, I recommend Fordland on Banawe, and Fordmaster on C.M. Recto (near Benavidez St.). Some replacement parts are OK. For instance, I used replacement brake master and wheel cylinder repair kits at buhay pa naman ako.

When it comes to underchassis and transmission parts, did you know that the B2500 shares the same parts with the B2200? Kaya kapag bumibili ka, sabihin mo para sa B2200 - mas mura pa!

I did that with my clutch master and slave, I replaced both ASSEMBLIES with replacement parts after binaha ako sa may UST. Again, buhay pa naman ako.

Regarding the shop charges for spare parts, I go to a trusted friend for repairs, and I know he's good, so I always buy and bring the spare parts.

Pagdating sa makina duon ka mahuhuli, the engines of the B2500 and B2200 are NOT the same, at duon sila babawe.

Napipilitan lang ako bumili kapag nagpapagawa ako sa casa, but even then there are some (like DELTA Motors beneath Delta theater along Quezon ave) that will let you bring the spare parts - wala lang warrantee ang gawa.

If you go to DELTA - look for James, ok sya umasikaso sa customer.

Now the juddering could just be that singaw na clutch hydraulics mo. Have them checked carefully - magaling DELTA dyan. My dad, who rides the clutch is a regular customer of theirs - naka tatlong palit na sya ng hydraulics on a 1995 Toyota HiLux, all because of his clutch riding.

Have it checked first BEFORE proceeding with dismantling and replacement of the clutch again. And you're right, sobrang mabilis ang isang taon para magpalit ng lining - I've used my own pickup to haul cement, sand, soil and gravel nung ginagaw bahay namin and I still have the ORIGINAL clutch disc and pressure plate.

Please let me know what happened.

Regards,

Dusky Lim

[rna800]

Dear rna800:

Glowing for more than 6-7 seconds tends to shorten the life of the glow plugs, one way to get longer life is to use plugs with a HIGHER voltage rating, about 12 - 12.5 volts. That value is stamped on the plug body.

A longer glow plug tip also helps with starting, it penetrates deeper into the combustion chamber and can reach more fuel and air. Don't go overboard however, 2 to 3 mm longer is about the limit.

With respect to original Mazda parts, well, medyo mahirap. Even when my truck was relatively new, Francisco Motors itself would use replacement parts during repairs. And they did not even want you to see the actual repair - tago sila, they keep you in a lousy customer lounge with bad coffee.

You have to get good parts from reputable suppliers, I recommend Fordland on Banawe, and Fordmaster on C.M. Recto (near Benavidez St.). Some replacement parts are OK. For instance, I used replacement brake master and wheel cylinder repair kits at buhay pa naman ako.

When it comes to underchassis and transmission parts, did you know that the B2500 shares the same parts with the B2200? Kaya kapag bumibili ka, sabihin mo para sa B2200 - mas mura pa!

I did that with my clutch master and slave, I replaced both ASSEMBLIES with replacement parts after binaha ako sa may UST. Again, buhay pa naman ako.

Regarding the shop charges for spare parts, I go to a trusted friend for repairs, and I know he's good, so I always buy and bring the spare parts.

Pagdating sa makina duon ka mahuhuli, the engines of the B2500 and B2200 are NOT the same, at duon sila babawe.

Napipilitan lang ako bumili kapag nagpapagawa ako sa casa, but even then there are some (like DELTA Motors beneath Delta theater along Quezon ave) that will let you bring the spare parts - wala lang warrantee ang gawa.

If you go to DELTA - look for James, ok sya umasikaso sa customer.

Now the juddering could just be that singaw na clutch hydraulics mo. Have them checked carefully - magaling DELTA dyan. My dad, who rides the clutch is a regular customer of theirs - naka tatlong palit na sya ng hydraulics on a 1995 Toyota HiLux, all because of his clutch riding.

Have it checked first BEFORE proceeding with dismantling and replacement of the clutch again. And you're right, sobrang mabilis ang isang taon para magpalit ng lining - I've used my own pickup to haul cement, sand, soil and gravel nung ginagaw bahay namin and I still have the ORIGINAL clutch disc and pressure plate.

Please let me know what happened.

Regards,

Dusky Lim

For that glow thing, what do you call that by the way?hehe Back to topic, it used to be around 3 to 4 seconds only then it disappears. After being overhauled, I noticed that it takes about 8 seconds before it disappears. It has been like that for almost a year so I guess it is normal. It is just now that it should not be the case. Good thing is my truck still starts with one click even if I don't use it for a day or two.

This is what I don't like with this truck, it so hard to find a dealer to have this serviced since Sunny Motors/Francisco Motors in Q. Ave closed after about 2 years after acquiring this truck from them. I needed to find a reputable shop to have it serviced. Good thing I already found one and they have been my shop for 3 or 4 years already. Maybe I would try Delta next time. I didn't know that shop is still operating. That is where I used to buy my break pads and yup, their shop doesn't look inviting.

I also experienced that when it comes to buying parts that when I say b2500, they will say b2200. As long as it fits and works properly, then fine by me. I would try that Fordland next time but I guess that is where my trusted shops buys since the original fuel filter that they put in mine was from Ford. What I didn't like is the very high mark up that they put wherein I could have bought it myself.

Do you happen to know where I could buy a stepboard for b2500? It should be in good condition. I know it is going to be hard to find one since that model is old and I believe that no shops have that style anymore.

Thanks!

[duskylim]

Dear rna800:

The longer glow plug is for the WL-31T (turbo version of the WL-31) which is installed on the Ford Ranger Pinatubo edition. Its about 2 -3 mm longer than the stock plugs for the WL-31.

Valve and piston interference is not a problem as the plug goes into the turbulence chamber, away from those moving parts.

As to the stepboard, I haven't had any big problems with them. Cguro dahil di ko ipinapatapak! He he he. They were factory installed so I always had them.

If you need larger screws to anchor them you can buy those along Tomas Mapua and Recto Avenues in Manila, at any of the To Suy branches. They will have larger sizes of the screws used to anchor them.

There are some shops along Banawe (on the Orthopedic Hospital side) which carry things like stepboards, but I don't know anybody specific.

Regards,

Dusky Lim

[duskylim]

Dear lnce420:

The short answer to your question is YES! the only real difference between the 4x4 and 4x2 versions of the B2500 is the four-wheel drive transmission, transfer case, and the lockable front differential, with the electronic controls using the buttons in the dashboard.

If you read the owner's manual, it identifies all the controls for 4wd.

Best Regards,

Dusky Lim

PS will keep you posted kung nakahanap na ako ng makina.

PPS To all people interested in a product demo, I thing Devil's Own will demo their Water-Alcohol injection system at Speedlab (across from Pegasus!) along Quezon Avenue, this coming March or April. Will keep you posted. I will be there, we can EB.

[rna800]

Dear rna800:

The longer glow plug is for the WL-31T (turbo version of the WL-31) which is installed on the Ford Ranger Pinatubo edition. Its about 2 -3 mm longer than the stock plugs for the WL-31.

Valve and piston interference is not a problem as the plug goes into the turbulence chamber, away from those moving parts.

As to the stepboard, I haven't had any big problems with them. Cguro dahil di ko ipinapatapak! He he he. They were factory installed so I always had them.

If you need larger screws to anchor them you can buy those along Tomas Mapua and Recto Avenues in Manila, at any of the To Suy branches. They will have larger sizes of the screws used to anchor them.

There are some shops along Banawe (on the Orthopedic Hospital side) which carry things like stepboards, but I don't know anybody specific.

Regards,

Dusky Lim

I know shops that sell stepboards like Carryboy, Ride Inc and Goldcars but I don't remember seeing like ours. Maybe I will try to look for that when I have time. Good for you that your stepboards are still good.hehe

[youngrider]

Salamat naman at buhay na buhay pa ang thread about these vehicles. Mga bro. baka pwede nyo i-post yung technical or service references ng mga engine natin. For ex:

Mazda B2200

Engine: Mazda R2, 2.2L diesel engine identical with HW2.2 kia engine of 2.2 kia Besta, can be replaced with RF turbo or non-turbo engine with minimal modification.

Engine oil capacity: 7.2 liters (full capacity) 15W-40 SAE CF minimum, I
add only about 6.5 liters after oil change,then adjust
as needed. I use Petron Rev-x trekker, or Seaoil
Deomax (SAE15W40 API CI) mura kasi.

Transmission oil: GL-4 SAE 90 *2.2L
Differential oil: GL-5 SAE 90 *1.2L (I use US GL-5 gear oil from Flying-V)

Coolant: 9 liters full drain, about 4 liters in the radiator and reservoir.
Oil filters: Bosch OF407/Vics 406,407, Vics 506/Daiwa DC 506 bypass
Timing Belt: R2/HW2.2 *164 teeth, RF *162 teeth
Fan Belt: Bando 3430, Mitsuboshi 6430
Aircon belt: Bando 3360
Air Filter: K&N part E-2536

Fuel injection pressure: 140 bars or 2030 PSI (my injectors are calibrated
at this pressure)

Fuel Consumption: not less than 10km/L w/aircon, my best FC is 16km/L H-way *70 to 90 km/hr

Engine noise/exhaust smoke? a little less than Isuzu(crosswind) but more than Mits 4D56.

Have recurrent problems with oil leaks around the valve cover?... Use original Valve cover gasket (kia or mazda) put red silicone to valve cover gasket groove, let it skin, place gasket in the valve cover, put red silicone over the valve cover gasket as well as to the half moon area (more on the corners where the rubber plugs meets the cylinderhead) let it skin, replaced the valve cover over the cylinder head.

Both the valve cover gasket groove and the clylinder head surface must be free of dirt and oil by wiping with denatured alcohol. Dry for 24 hours before running the engine.

Original thermostat valve opens at 88C, I replaced mine with 82C. Use glycol/distilled water mix for coolant never with tap water or distilled water alone. In lieu of glycol based coolant you can use anticorrosion additive like Seaoil coolant *P95 bottle, 1 bot is enough for R2 engine.

kindly correct any mistakes that you notice.

[youngrider]

Correction for Lubes:

Engine oil capacity: 5 liters for R2, 7.2 liters for kia HW2.2
Transmission fluid: 1.7 - 2L for R2, 2.2L for KiaHW2.2
Differential Oil: 1.3L for R2, 1.2L for Kia HW2.2

source: Shell lubematch

[duskylim]

Dear Guys:

Thanks to youngrider for his informative post. Here's my 2 cents:

On the WL-31 the engine oil capacity is 6 liters, with about 1/2 liter for the filter. However I don't add any more oil as overfilling is MORE dangerous than underfilling.

I use the Green Castrol Diesel engine oil 15W-40. Get a 5-liter jug and a 1-liter bottle - ACE hardware sa SM Fairview sells Castrol at a reasonable price.

If you want to save some gas, here's a little tip. Fill the transmission up with SAE 90 gearoil from a reputable station, but use SAE 80/85 oil in the differential - it has a lower viscosity and will have lower running friction.

Here in Fairview the Total station along Regalado, across from the Petron and near the Goodyear Servitek has SAE 85 gear oil pero medyo mahal - however since you replace this between 20k to 40k km the gas you save will be worth it.

When it comes to fan belts, medyo biased ako, I only use GATES toothed fan belts. They are very strong and reliable. I installed a set for my alternator (double belt) and aircon (single belt) more than 6 years ago and have not trouble with them yet.

Many people do not realize that the main cause of fanbelt failure is OVERTIGHTENING. The correct amount is just enough to keep the belt from slipping, with about 3/4 inch deflection across the largest span. Or about the belts thickness across the narrowest span.

People are constantly amazed to find out how long my belt life is.

Toothed fan belts have longer life because of less internal heat build-up in their carcass. They also dissipate and waste less energy as heat, due to the favorable geometry.

Pag dating sa Filters I use VIC filters because they are ubiquitous (readily available) and cheap. Incidentally, Francisco Motors didn't even have the original oil filters and used VIC filters too.

As to smoke, my engine has very little at all even under hard acceleration. The last time I had an emissions test - thi January, the meter read 0.6, and the technician tested it again because he couldn't believe it.

I have always used distilled water in my radiator (but not glycol) ever since my 1st radiator overhaul. If it looks like there is some build-up of deposits, I drain 1 liter a week from the system and top off with more distilled water to clean out the system.

Regards,

Dusky Lim

[rna800]

Dear Guys:

Thanks to youngrider for his informative post. Here's my 2 cents:

On the WL-31 the engine oil capacity is 6 liters, with about 1/2 liter for the filter. However I don't add any more oil as overfilling is MORE dangerous than underfilling.

I use the Green Castrol Diesel engine oil 15W-40. Get a 5-liter jug and a 1-liter bottle - ACE hardware sa SM Fairview sells Castrol at a reasonable price.

If you want to save some gas, here's a little tip. Fill the transmission up with SAE 90 gearoil from a reputable station, but use SAE 80/85 oil in the differential - it has a lower viscosity and will have lower running friction.

Here in Fairview the Total station along Regalado, across from the Petron and near the Goodyear Servitek has SAE 85 gear oil pero medyo mahal - however since you replace this between 20k to 40k km the gas you save will be worth it.

When it comes to fan belts, medyo biased ako, I only use GATES toothed fan belts. They are very strong and reliable. I installed a set for my alternator (double belt) and aircon (single belt) more than 6 years ago and have not trouble with them yet.

Many people do not realize that the main cause of fanbelt failure is OVERTIGHTENING. The correct amount is just enough to keep the belt from slipping, with about 3/4 inch deflection across the largest span. Or about the belts thickness across the narrowest span.

People are constantly amazed to find out how long my belt life is.

Toothed fan belts have longer life because of less internal heat build-up in their carcass. They also dissipate and waste less energy as heat, due to the favorable geometry.

Pag dating sa Filters I use VIC filters because they are ubiquitous (readily available) and cheap. Incidentally, Francisco Motors didn't even have the original oil filters and used VIC filters too.

As to smoke, my engine has very little at all even under hard acceleration. The last time I had an emissions test - thi January, the meter read 0.6, and the technician tested it again because he couldn't believe it.

I have always used distilled water in my radiator (but not glycol) ever since my 1st radiator overhaul. If it looks like there is some build-up of deposits, I drain 1 liter a week from the system and top off with more distilled water to clean out the system.

Regards,

Dusky Lim

Where do you have your car serviced? Your belts are already 6 years old!?! Goodness! Where did you bring your car that your belt is already good after all those years?hehe But my mechanic also told me that toothed belts are more durable and last longer. That Gates brand, where could I buy that? What about for your timing belt, any brand that you particularly use?

I am sorry but I am not mechanically inclined but where should I put that SAE 90, in the clutch fluid reservoir? For the differential oil, my mechanic put oil there before but I didn't have any idea if it was SAE 80/85.

[duskylim]

Dear rna800:

Where do I have my car serviced? Well that depends.

For general work I go to a dear friend who has a shop inside West Triangle village, along Benitez St. - that's Ding Clemente. His people are competent and thorough.

For the lighter fuel system and injection work I go to DRT Injection and Calibration (Del Rosario Trading along Short Horn in Proj 8) of Gener del Rosario. For more serious fuel system problems to Jake Arellano's Central Diesel Clinic along Quezon Ave.

For tires, suspension and wheel alignment I go to the Goodyear Servitek along Regalado here in Fairview, or the Petron across the street kapag puno sila.

If I have the time (and inclination) I tend to do the repairs myself at home.

Of course that's only light repairs, like changing fan belts, checking radiator water levels, flushing brake and clutch fluids, checking battery water, replacing the idler bearing on the Airconditioner's tensioner, etc.

One of the larger jobs I tried was replacing the water pump - very labor intensive, not gonna do that again.

The last big job I did on my vehicle was to install the entire Water-Methanol Injection system from Devil's Own. That was a hard job, I had to remove the 2 front seats to get good access to the area under the dashboard.

As to the Gates fan belts, they are a famous US brand well-known for durability. I know the supplier in Chinatown he's along Masangkay street. Medyo mahal lang cla.

The original timing belt on the Mazda was a Mistuboshi, which almost everyone along Banawe has - but for the Mazda B2500, go to Fordland for it.

What goes into the clutch and brake fluid reservoir is BRAKE FLUID and not anything else. According to the owners manual you should replace those fluids after 1 year because of contamination.

I do it after 6 months, using Prestone brake fluid - mga Php 200 per bottle from Capitol Auto Supply along Commonwealth.

If you want to see where they put in the Gear Oils, when the time comes, go to the Petron along Commonwealth-Regalado (across from the Servitek), they will put your vehicle up on a hydraulic lifter and you can ask the mechanic to point out to you the TRANSMISSION as well as it's drain plug and the filler plug.

First they will drain the oil and then will fill it using a special pump that can meter in fractions of a liter - that's how they will charge you.

The second place they will put the oil is in the DIFFERENTIAL - the device that mechanics call the BUNGO (skull). Ask him to point it out to you and show you the drain plug and the filler plug.

The tranmission is the one you fill with SAE 90 oil, the differential with SAE 80/85 oil.

For the uninformed, SAE means the Society of Automotive Engineers, who have a rating system for the oil's thickness - which we call VISCOSITY.

The HIGHER the SAE number the THICKER the oil. Some oils have different viscosities based on temperature - the so-called multi-viscosity oils.

They are distinguished by having 2 SAE numbers separated by a dash.

Example SAE 15W-40.

The 1st number suffixed by the W is the WINTER grade - that is, the oil's thickness in cold conditions.

The 2nd number is the oil's thickness in SUMMER or hot conditions.

Multi-grade oils are better than single grade oils (often found in the cheaper diesel engine oils, e.g. SAE 30 or SAE 40) in that they have lower friction, however they also have shorter lives. So replace your oil regularly.

The SAE ratings for Gear Oil begin at SAE 80 (about as thick as SAE 30 engine oil) all the way up to about SAE 150 (thicker than molasses).

Another rating system is for the oil's QUALITY or intended service use. Its published by the API - American Petroleum Institute. Its a two letter code denoting the oils use and quality.

There are 2 letter systems:

1) For gasoline or Spark Ignition engines - SA, SB, SC, SD, SE, ... SH, SI, SJ...etc.

2) For diesel or Compression Ignition engines - CA, CB, CC, CD, CE, ...CG, CH, CI, CJ...etc.

In each case the FARTHER the 2nd letter is away from A, the HIGHER the Quality of the OIL.

Similarly the API uses the GL-x (where x is a number) code for Transmission and Gear Oil quality. The Higher the number x the Better the quality.

Now you can compare and buy your oils more intelligently.

Regards,

Dusky Lim

[duskylim]

Dear rna800:

After thinking about it, if your the kind of person who is rather busy (and can't be bothered) to stick around while the car is being repaired but need a shop that will do the work honestly (at a slightly high but reasonable price) using the best available parts, then try DELTA Motors under Delta theater.

James is the supervisor and he will take good care of you.

I have a friend who regularly has work done there and he is very particular (he's a doctor) and has no complaints. My dad also regularly has work done there.

Like I said before, they will also accept parts supplied by the customer, although iba na a warrantee nila kapag ikaw ang nagdadala ng piyesa.

Regards,

Dusky Lim

[rna800]

Thanks for the very lengthy but very informative post.

I wanted to give Gates a try but if I have to go to Chinatown, I might reconsider.hehe Fordland would be ok I guess.

How would I know if my fuel system and injection already need servicing? Like in my case, in an uphill road roughly 40 degrees and is about 100m, I feel that my truck is kinda having a hard time going up and I noticed that the rpm is already in 3k and if I shift into 3rd gear, it will kinda choke and that I need to downshift it to 2nd gear. If not for that original fuel filter with pump that I always pump every time I start the car, I feel that it would even have a harder time going up. For normal roads like from Goodyear Servitek up to that long stretch of road then you'll turn right and a long stretch of road again, the truck I would say runs average but expect that once it reaches 60 to 70 kph, it starts to slowly crawl up just to gain more speed. Given that, is that a sign of a possible fuel system and injection problem? Just a guesstimate.

For my clutch and brake fluid, I just replaced my clutch operating assembly and clutch master assembly so the fluid in the reservoir is still new. I used the one from Shell. As to my brake fluid, I don't even recall when was the last time it was flushed and the last time I looked, it was kinda murky already. Perhaps I will have that flushed on its PMS.

I didn't expect that you know Capitol Auto Supply. That is where we saw our always on call mechanic back in the 1990s and I always buy car parts from that store. Unfortunately they are not there anymore and based from those mechanics in that area, which in turn one of them is our on call mechanic, they said they went to Fairview.

How's that Devil's Own by the way? I also read the thread about that and it really caught my interest but I guess I will just keep my B2500 the way it is.

As to the oils that they put, I am not really paying attention to those numbers. For example in Shell, I will just tell them for that car and they will just tell me "Sir, this one." The same goes for the brake and clutch fluid.

Oh well, it has less than 1k kms to go and it is already scheduled for its PMS and I would really have those fluids replaced and keep those SAE numbers for reference. By the way, have you tried having your change oil in that Petron? I am thinking that since they do that gear oil change thing there, I will just have it done everything there.

[rna800]

Dear rna800:

After thinking about it, if your the kind of person who is rather busy (and can't be bothered) to stick around while the car is being repaired but need a shop that will do the work honestly (at a slightly high but reasonable price) using the best available parts, then try DELTA Motors under Delta theater.

James is the supervisor and he will take good care of you.

I have a friend who regularly has work done there and he is very particular (he's a doctor) and has no complaints. My dad also regularly has work done there.

Like I said before, they will also accept parts supplied by the customer, although iba na a warrantee nila kapag ikaw ang nagdadala ng piyesa.

Regards,

Dusky Lim

I might try this especially when my clutch worsens, I might just go there as to make sure that the clutch they put would last longer, hopefully. Thanks for the info.

[duskylim]

Dear rna800:

Strictly speaking, just from your description I wouldn't know if your injection system had trouble, without checking it. That's the kind of answer you would get from Jake Arellano of Central Diesel and maybe Gener from DRT.

However, if you are having this mid-range power problems, then it could be a number of things.

Always check the basics first. That way you can get the fundamental causes out of the way.

1) Since this engine was opened up, make sure the cam and injection timing are correct and your valve clearances too. James at DELTA Motors can do this for you.

2) What fuel are you using? I recommend Shell, Petron and Total (and maybe City Oil) in that order of preference. I don't have good experience with other fuels.

I use a clear plastic fuel filter inserted just before my main fuel filter. Its for Mercedes-Benz diesels and is available from Sunshine Motors along Roces Ave.

After filling the tank I drive home and look at the filter. Kapag madumi sya I blacklist the station that sold me the fuel.

3) Is the air filter clean? I replace the air filter with every oil change. Is the exhaust restricted? (The original muffler on the B2500 is restrictive - I had mine replaced with a less restrictive design).

4) Is the water separator (next to the fuel tank) clean? Is the fuel filter clean? Is the strainer filter (located in the injection pump) clean? The stock Mazda B2500 has 3 filters you have to check.

5) Have you purged the fuel system of all the air? One of the best clues to a blocked fuel system is a persistent air leak.

The blockage prevents the fuel from flowing smoothly so the system tends to pull in air - which has a DRAMATICALLY DETRIMENTAL effect on your performance. Mawawala ang hila talaga!

You know if you use a hand pump to pressurize the fuel lines BEFORE starting and you are running a good quality fuel and FUEL ADDITIVE, cold start ups aren't very dramatic.

Not only will the engine start up after 2-3 revolutions, it will idle smoothly and QUIETLY immediately after starting! Its just amazing what purging the fuel lines of air and dirt can accomplish!

You should drive my pick-up once to see the performance of a properly maintained B2500.

If all of the above check out ok then its time to ask the professional calibrators for their help - madugo na usapan yan.

As to the Water-Alcohol injection system from DevilsOwn, I got it to try it out as I have long wanted to see the effects on a naturally-aspirated (read NO TURBO) diesel. Curiousity baga.

My system comes not with the standard pressure switch trigger (they call it a Hobbs switch) but with a MAF - mass air flow sensor that in turn provides input to the computer control unit.

I think I'm probably only one of 5 people here locally who use the computer control for the water injection system, malamang kasi mas mahal sya. The MAF sensor is a standard Ford part and comes from an F-150 pickup!

To be frank I don't use it that much as its performance is more than a little disappointing, I've got the computer controls dialed all the way back but the engine still runs rougher when it comes on.

Its actually hard to say that I get any positive benefits from it at the moment.

It seems that I get better performance from my free-flow muffler, tuned air intake and most importantly my FUEL ADDITIVE.

I have asked Ferman and DevilDoc to provide me with smaller nozzles for the system as even with the smallest stock 1 gallon per hour nozzle, it seems to be delivering too much water-meth.

When I get the new, smaller nozzles I will attempt some exhaustive tuning to really find out the system's potential. So hintay lang kayo, more news to come.

Balik tayo sa maintenance.

One way you can replace the brake fluid without having to bleed the system at every tire is to suck out the fluid from the reservoir using a hand pump and then refill with fresh brake fluid.

Yan yung daya namin. I do that every 6 months with the clutch fluid pati. After 1 to 2 years, depending upon kung NABAHA ka, have them check the wheel bearings and the brakes, and bleed from all tires.

As to the mechanics around Capitol Auto Supply, hindi ako nagpapagawa sa kanila, masyadong hustler ang dating!

As to the Petron station across from Servitek sa Commonwealth, OK magpagawa sa kanila. The most skilled mechanic there is an old guy named Danny (sya lang ang payat sa kanila - lahat ng iba mukhang wrestler or pulis).

For things like oil changes, transmission oil changes, simple alignment, ok ang Petron. You can try them out too. When it comes to oil changes, buy your own oil and filter, malaki matitipid mo.

Regards,

Dusky Lim

[youngrider]

How would I know if my fuel system and injection already need servicing? Like in my case, in an uphill road roughly 40 degrees and is about 100m, I feel that my truck is kinda having a hard time going up and I noticed that the rpm is already in 3k and if I shift into 3rd gear, it will kinda choke and that I need to downshift it to 2nd gear. If not for that original fuel filter with pump that I always pump every time I start the car, I feel that it would even have a harder time going up. For normal roads like from Goodyear Servitek up to that long stretch of road then you'll turn right and a long stretch of road again, the truck I would say runs average but expect that once it reaches 60 to 70 kph, it starts to slowly crawl up just to gain more speed. Given that, is that a sign of a possible fuel system and injection problem? Just a guesstimate.

Seems that there is really a problem with your ride, ours is only 2.2L NA diesel but I think it runs better than that. Well, you could start by checking for correct tire pressure and binding brakes (they should feel just warm even in long drives). Weak suspension na dumadapa pag lubak or nagbi-break ay pahirap din sa makina.

Then check your air filter (diesels consumes a lot of air) maybe it is time for replacement. How about your intake manifold, wala bang restriction because of thick carbon and oil deposits.

Next is to replace your fuel filter if dirty then check for air in your fuel line as 'dusky' had described. Now the injection pump and injectors needs to be serviced once in a while specially with worsening FC, abnormal smoking, rough engine, and driveability problems that can not be accounted for by defects in the other parts of the engine.

I had my injection system serviced because of worsening black smoke with minor driveability problem. It turned out that one of my injectors was about 10 bars below the others. After it was corrected my ride runs smoother, with less smoke, and more silent, so sulit ang gastos.

Then I saw to it that my aircon is in good condition so that it would not give undue stress to my engine.

Worn piston rings or cylinder walls can be checked by compression or leak test. Wrong engine timing can also result to a weak engine. I don't know for B2500 but R2 engine has overhead cam, the valve clearances are adjusted by using shims not like in an engine with rocker arms.

[duskylim]

Dear rna800:

Climbing up a hill with a 40 degree slope, is a 1st or 2nd gear operation. I don't recommend you try that in 3rd gear, unless your in a 4x4.

Note that the government considers areas with 40 degrees of slope WATERSHED's and does NOT allow them to be alienable (owned and saleable) land.

The WL-31's powerband begins at about 1600 to 1800 rpm and peaks at about 3000 rpm, although it should pull strongly up to 4000+ rpm.

In any case, 1st gear should pull strongest (within the powerband) from 10 kph to 25 kph, 2nd gear from 25 kph to 50 kph, 3rd gear 50 kph to 75 kph, 4th gear from 75 kph to 100+ kph, etc.

If the engine can't do this on a flat road, then there's something definitely wrong with it.

Something is choking your engine and keeping it from revving up.

Again have the basics checked 1st. You may have a mistimed engine, but no one can be definitive without checking 1st.

Regards,

Dusky Lim

Thanks for the very lengthy but very informative post.

I wanted to give Gates a try but if I have to go to Chinatown, I might reconsider.hehe Fordland would be ok I guess.

How would I know if my fuel system and injection already need servicing? Like in my case, in an uphill road roughly 40 degrees and is about 100m, I feel that my truck is kinda having a hard time going up and I noticed that the rpm is already in 3k and if I shift into 3rd gear, it will kinda choke and that I need to downshift it to 2nd gear. If not for that original fuel filter with pump that I always pump every time I start the car, I feel that it would even have a harder time going up. For normal roads like from Goodyear Servitek up to that long stretch of road then you'll turn right and a long stretch of road again, the truck I would say runs average but expect that once it reaches 60 to 70 kph, it starts to slowly crawl up just to gain more speed. Given that, is that a sign of a possible fuel system and injection problem? Just a guesstimate.

For my clutch and brake fluid, I just replaced my clutch operating assembly and clutch master assembly so the fluid in the reservoir is still new. I used the one from Shell. As to my brake fluid, I don't even recall when was the last time it was flushed and the last time I looked, it was kinda murky already. Perhaps I will have that flushed on its PMS.

I didn't expect that you know Capitol Auto Supply. That is where we saw our always on call mechanic back in the 1990s and I always buy car parts from that store. Unfortunately they are not there anymore and based from those mechanics in that area, which in turn one of them is our on call mechanic, they said they went to Fairview.

How's that Devil's Own by the way? I also read the thread about that and it really caught my interest but I guess I will just keep my B2500 the way it is.

As to the oils that they put, I am not really paying attention to those numbers. For example in Shell, I will just tell them for that car and they will just tell me "Sir, this one." The same goes for the brake and clutch fluid.

Oh well, it has less than 1k kms to go and it is already scheduled for its PMS and I would really have those fluids replaced and keep those SAE numbers for reference. By the way, have you tried having your change oil in that Petron? I am thinking that since they do that gear oil change thing there, I will just have it done everything there.