Mazda B-Series (B2200/B2500)

[chinesecarebear]

Good Day Guyz!

Since may holiday na dumaan, ishare ko lang sa inyo yun naging activity ko sa ride ko. i have the whole day again to spend with the items needed to be fix sa sasakyan. i decided na radiator na.

I got my radiator overhauled malapit lang samin, it cost me 500 php. well trusted sya ng mekaniko na gumagawa ng sasakyan ko. as in kinakal ng mabuti at inayos mabuti yun sealing ng top and bottom. ngayon hindi na ko nagaalala na mauubusan ng tubig. napansin ko na wala ng silbi yun aux fan ng aircon ko since hindi ko naman ginagamit yun aircon dahil hindi pa naooverhaul yun engine. next time item ko is papalagyan ko ng switch yun aux fan para makatulong sa cooling ng rad incase taffic.

Another issue i've encountered early this morning. natakbo ako ng 80 kph along alabang bridge ng gradually nagslowdown yun sasakyan, tapos napansin ko na nausok yun both sides ko sa front tires. hanggang sa napigilan nya ko after ng asian hospital. i pulled over sa side ng slex and checked out what's going on, prior pala bago nangyari yun pagbagal eh sobrang tigas nun brake halos hindi ko na matapakan. nun nakahinto na ko i turned the wheel full right para mableed ko yun fluid, i think hindi properly na bleed yun brake ko nun nagpalit ng brake master. nakakayamot. after ko mableed back to normal uli yun tapak ko sa brake. hmmm. baka pa full re-bleed ko uli yun sasakyan para hindi mangyari yun gradual slow down ko kasi unti unti kumakapit yun disc brake hanggang sa magfull stop ka na.

ngayon yun sasakyan ko eh iniwan ko sa office since mas safe sya dun at may bubong unlike dito sa boarding house. tapos may nakita din ako leak sa clutch master. mukhang yun master naman ang papalitan ko this time. pahirapan uli maghanapo ng piyesa nito. hays.

as mention ni ronn na practice defensive driving. astig yun naging experience ko sa pagdalaw ko sa kuya ko sa caloocan near C3. kahit may stoplight ang motto dun ng mga driver eh "GO IF ABLE", mukhang culture narin dun. ang galing diskarte nalang yun pagtawid tawid ng sasakyan within the intersection. in short "lakas ng loob at kapal ng mukhan nalang"

any idea kung magkano yun pairs ng side mirrors ng B2500?

[wildthing]

lemon yung ibang early (90-93) B2200...a lot of engine problems. I use to have a 94 B2200. It was great....except when naubusan ako ng fuel (my gauge was faulty pala)....I think the injectors was damaged after that incident (my fault).

I like the roomy double cab...parang fuego ang luwag nito.

It is not a speed demon....120kph lang ang gauge and I manage to make it run only at 110kph. The B2500 series could probably be faster.

It is a good buy as long as its less P150K (unless what you are buying is a late model) then I'd say max would be P250K.

[duskylim]

Hi Guys:

I drive a 1998 Mazda B2500, apart from a replacing the clutch master and slave, repair of the brake master via an overhauling kit and a radiator overhaul, have had no real major issues with it.

It consistently gets 10-11 km/liter even in the city, of course much better in the highway. About the only thing you have to watch out for is some overheating in long traffic jams. But after the radiator overhaul and the use of only distilled water (wilkins or absolute) wala na rin yan.

The top speed used to be about 140 kph, after I replaced the muffler (which turned out to be very restrictive - sakal,) it can easily exceed 150 kph. The WL-31 has 12 valves and after the muffler change will rev cleanly to 5000 rpm if you're crazy enough to do it.

I had to do that because of a failed emissions test. The mechanic brought me to a car wash and filled the exhaust system with water, yung pala mainit na mainit ang flexible pipe ko, when the water hit it, it cracked (although di ko napansin ng una). If I ever see that guy again, god help me!

The crack got worse and worse, until finally I had to replace the flexible pipe. What I did notice however was that the performance was a lot better with the cracked pipe. I had SMT (Sison-Mercado Trading) replace my muffler with a free-flow design and voila! Mas malakas humila at mas matipid ang Mazda ko!

That was an expensive way to find out that the stock muffler was too restrictive.

Before I sign off I have a couple of questions for the experts.

1) What are the valve clearances (hot and cold please) for the WL-31 engine? They are not listed in the owner's manual and I get a different answer every time I ask a different person.

2) What is the purpose of the small black box attached to a branch of the air cleaner? It has no openings and isn't designed to be replaced. For the life of me, no one has ever explained what it's for.

I tried to contact Francisco Motors but they're shut down. Ford Phils isn't really interested in answering my questions.

Hoping some good samaritan will help me here.

Best Regards,

Dusky Lim

[rna800]

Hi Guys:

I drive a 1998 Mazda B2500, apart from a replacing the clutch master and slave, repair of the brake master via an overhauling kit and a radiator overhaul, have had no real major issues with it.

It consistently gets 10-11 km/liter even in the city, of course much better in the highway. About the only thing you have to watch out for is some overheating in long traffic jams. But after the radiator overhaul and the use of only distilled water (wilkins or absolute) wala na rin yan.

The top speed used to be about 140 kph, after I replaced the muffler (which turned out to be very restrictive - sakal,) it can easily exceed 150 kph. The WL-31 has 12 valves and after the muffler change will rev cleanly to 5000 rpm if you're crazy enough to do it.

2) What is the purpose of the small black box attached to a branch of the air cleaner? It has no openings and isn't designed to be replaced. For the life of me, no one has ever explained what it's for.

Best Regards,

Dusky Lim

sir, me too, i also drive a 98 b2500. for the past 10 years, the only major repairs that it underwent were engine overhaul and the injector pump "something". sorry i forgot the term. other than those, only minor repairs.

for the overheating issue, so far my car havent overheated for a long time. i noticed that the temperature is gauge is too low (almost near the 1st line or about 1/4 above the line) when im not driving aggressively or even in traffic jams. but if i drive like a mad man, it would go to i think the normal which is just a cm below half. it's been like that for 2 years and so far i dont have any problems with the car. is your's like that too? i use ordinary water though and refilling the container for the radiator.

for your query with regards to the black box attached to the branch of the air cleaner, i think that's just design.hehe my mechanic couldn't explain it to me as well. he doesn't even know it's exact purpose.hehe

for my top speed, i notice that i could still go around 130 but i feel that it's already choking when it reaches 120 and sometimes around 110.

[rivco]

Sir good day po. I have read your comments about the b2500 kaya na was convinced to buy one. I recently bought a 2nd hand na 98 b2500 kaya lang po medyo nagkakaprob ako. As I am observing my pick up napansin ko po na 6.5 to 7 kms lang po yung milage nya per liter pag sa city tps 10-11 lang pg highway. May nakalagay po kasi na fuel saver yung pick up nung nabili ko. Mas oki po kaya na tanggalin ko nalang yun? Thank You po. Kung pwde po pakiemail nalang po ako kung may reply po kayo kasi hindi po ako masyadong nagccheck ng tsikot na site. jofel_riofrio*yahoo.com po email ko. Hoping for you reply

Hi Guys:

I drive a 1998 Mazda B2500, apart from a replacing the clutch master and slave, repair of the brake master via an overhauling kit and a radiator overhaul, have had no real major issues with it.

It consistently gets 10-11 km/liter even in the city, of course much better in the highway. About the only thing you have to watch out for is some overheating in long traffic jams. But after the radiator overhaul and the use of only distilled water (wilkins or absolute) wala na rin yan.

The top speed used to be about 140 kph, after I replaced the muffler (which turned out to be very restrictive - sakal,) it can easily exceed 150 kph. The WL-31 has 12 valves and after the muffler change will rev cleanly to 5000 rpm if you're crazy enough to do it.

I had to do that because of a failed emissions test. The mechanic brought me to a car wash and filled the exhaust system with water, yung pala mainit na mainit ang flexible pipe ko, when the water hit it, it cracked (although di ko napansin ng una). If I ever see that guy again, god help me!

The crack got worse and worse, until finally I had to replace the flexible pipe. What I did notice however was that the performance was a lot better with the cracked pipe. I had SMT (Sison-Mercado Trading) replace my muffler with a free-flow design and voila! Mas malakas humila at mas matipid ang Mazda ko!

That was an expensive way to find out that the stock muffler was too restrictive.

Before I sign off I have a couple of questions for the experts.

1) What are the valve clearances (hot and cold please) for the WL-31 engine? They are not listed in the owner's manual and I get a different answer every time I ask a different person.

2) What is the purpose of the small black box attached to a branch of the air cleaner? It has no openings and isn't designed to be replaced. For the life of me, no one has ever explained what it's for.

I tried to contact Francisco Motors but they're shut down. Ford Phils isn't really interested in answering my questions.

Hoping some good samaritan will help me here.

Best Regards,

Dusky Lim

[sean58]

Hi Dusky Lim,

Any luck with the valve clearances? I've been looking for this for quite some time now but with no luck. Mine is a Ford Courier '97 but with the same engine of B2500.


Regards

[duskylim]

Hi Dusky Lim,

Any luck with the valve clearances? I've been looking for this for quite some time now but with no luck. Mine is a Ford Courier '97 but with the same engine of B2500.


Regards

Dear Sean:

the valve clearances for the WL-31 or WLT-31 diesel engines are 0.006 inch for the intake valves and 0.010 inch for the exhaust valves, COLD engine. That is actually on the repair manual.....

Hope this helps,

Good Luck

Dusky LIm

[B25mazda]

Dear Sean:

the valve clearances for the WL-31 or WLT-31 diesel engines are 0.006 inch for the intake valves and 0.010 inch for the exhaust valves, COLD engine. That is actually on the repair manual.....

Hope this helps,

Good Luck

Dusky LIm

hi! where can i buy a resonator for my b25mazda? eto ung prang square type nakabitin sa air cleaner hose at anong shop ma recommend mo? diko na ksi mahagilap si lando sa fransisco motors eh tnx

[binder_clips]

Goodmorning Guys

I also have a b2500.. nka-16 inch sya na ralli-art yng pang pajero.. sayad sa front wheel well so lift kelangan..

Napa-calibrate na rin and over haul so ganda na ng hatak..

My current problem is the Timer sa heaterplug..kaya naka direct sya ... san ba makabili nito?

my 2nd problem e yng.. tachometer ko hindi umaandar...


Any advise...thnx guys...

[youngrider]

Hayaan mo muna siguro glow plug timer mo. Antay ka na lang from 5 to 8 secs bago mo switch yung starter. This is after partially turning the ignition switch, yung bago magredondo, yung lumalabas ang idiot's lights ng oil, battery, parking brake, etc.

Ako sa umaga 8 secs gamit ko. Di to kailangan pag warm pa engine.

[cyrusblutrooper]

Goodmorning Guys

I also have a b2500.. nka-16 inch sya na ralli-art yng pang pajero.. sayad sa front wheel well so lift kelangan..

Napa-calibrate na rin and over haul so ganda na ng hatak..

My current problem is the Timer sa heaterplug..kaya naka direct sya ... san ba makabili nito?

my 2nd problem e yng.. tachometer ko hindi umaandar...


Any advise...thnx guys...

same problem with mine before we sell our b2500. laging busted ang heater plugs. mahal ata yung timer. my local mechanic took some parts from heater timer of hilux.



P.S.

i got engine parts for B2500 anyone interested pm me...

[duskylim]

Dear Guys:

At first I had a problem with the glow plugs on my B2500 too. Part of the problem is the design of the WL-31's cylinder head and its low compression ratio. The aluminum cylinder head cools better but also loses heat more quickly than a cast iron head, making for more difficult start ups.

The other problem is the relatively low compression ratio of the WL-31 engine which is only 21.6 to 1. Divided chamber diesel engines (like the turbulence chamber design of the WL-31) usually require higher compression ratios for good starting characteristics.

As a comparison on our 96 Toyota HiLux, the compression ratio is 23 to 1. No problems starting up here.

On my old Mercedes-Benz 190D the compression ratio was a low 21.5 to 1, making for very difficult starts, even with a 6MF (read - truck sized) battery.

But then I found that you can use Kitahara glow plugs as a replacement. Take out the original glow plugs (they are NGK's) and use them as a sample for size and thread.

Fordmaster along Banawe carries KHT - Kitahara glow plugs. The secret to long glow plug life is to go from the original 11.5 volt NGK's to 12 - 12.5 volt plugs with the same pattern, length and threads.

The lower voltage means that they will take a little longer to heat up (maybe 3 to 5 seconds more) but it also means they wont overheat and burn up as frequently.

If you want you can even use the one's for WLT-31 turbo diesels which are longer and so will go deeper into the turbulence chamber, but they are a little more expensive.

That shouldn't really matter as the whole set of four (4) is less than Php 1000.00 for the Kitahara's - which is about the cost of just 1 NGK glow plug.

Word of warning to the inexperienced - some unscrupulous people will try to sell you reconditioned glow plugs - they are crudely repainted and have damaged threads; so buyer beware!

To be safe stick with the better known auto supply's like FordMaster.

Hope this helps.

Best Regards,

Dusky Lim

PS : Thought I might include this for newbies.

To test a glow plug initially, use a VOM (volt-ohm meter, i.e. tester). Place the meter on the 1x to 10x OHMs scale.

Place one electrode on the plug body and the other on the supply terminal. The meter should read no higher than 5 ohms (if it reads higher the plug has too much internal resistance).

If it read infinite then the plug is open.

After performing these tests, get a battery charger and clamp the black lead (ground) to the glow plug body, and then lightly press the red lead to the plug terminal, the plug should lightly heat up. If it doesn't then its a bad glow plug.

If the seller won't allow you to perform this test, don't buy from him. A bad glow plug will burn out from the test alone.

[rna800]

guys, do any of you know the hp of b2500?

i noticed about 4 years ago, i could still outrun buses and cabs, but now, im having a hard time or i couldn't! i don't know if my engine got weaker or their engines got stronger.

but with soaring gas prices, i dont think racing with other cars is still a good idea. i now drive sensibly that's why my max speed now is around 60. not only i could save gas, but i could also reduce the wear and tear of my truck. besides, my truck could still do the things that i need to do, so i guess that's the most important part.

[carbuncle]

boss... may shop ka? can i ask for your email address? i need to replace some hose for my B2500

same problem with mine before we sell our b2500. laging busted ang heater plugs. mahal ata yung timer. my local mechanic took some parts from heater timer of hilux.



P.S.

i got engine parts for B2500 anyone interested pm me...

[carbuncle]

Hi guys. Share ko lang problem ko with my B2500. This happens every morning and nag start nung December. Im having hard starts in the morning. i let the glow plug heat for 8 seconds. 2-3 times ang pag start ko to finally have it started. then kapag nag start.. grabeng white smoke lumalabas.. tas nanginginig yung sasakyan. after naman ng mga 10 minutes ok na sya. no more smoke tas hindi na nanginginig. may naka exprience naba neto?

i dunno lang if may leak somewhere at napapasukan ng cold air makina ko. nag palit na rin ako ng fuel filter.. then nag pa change oil nung december 2008. nagpalit ng glow plug nung november 2007. then battery was changed nung march 2008.

[rna800]

Hi guys. Share ko lang problem ko with my B2500. This happens every morning and nag start nung December. Im having hard starts in the morning. i let the glow plug heat for 8 seconds. 2-3 times ang pag start ko to finally have it started. then kapag nag start.. grabeng white smoke lumalabas.. tas nanginginig yung sasakyan. after naman ng mga 10 minutes ok na sya. no more smoke tas hindi na nanginginig. may naka exprience naba neto?

i dunno lang if may leak somewhere at napapasukan ng cold air makina ko. nag palit na rin ako ng fuel filter.. then nag pa change oil nung december 2008. nagpalit ng glow plug nung november 2007. then battery was changed nung march 2008.

Sometimes this happens to my truck especially on the 1st start and it hasn't run for a day though not all the time. My RPM is the line below the 1k line on idle so I guess that's making it a little well not shaky but I could hear the stepboard the hood making sounds. After the engine is pre heated for about 1 minute, everything is perfect again. For the white smoke, I don't experience that.

[adb]

sir newbie ako d2 bka may suggest po kau san meron mgaling na mekaniko ksi nka bili ako 2nd hand na b2200 lage ko na encounter ung leak ng oil sa oil seal ata un tama po b??? tsaka meron po ba kayo alam na mabibilihan ng accesories like ung chrome sa tail light tsaka sa grills thanks more power....

[rna800]

Goodmorning Guys

My current problem is the Timer sa heaterplug..kaya naka direct sya ... san ba makabili nito?

my 2nd problem e yng.. tachometer ko hindi umaandar...

Any advise...thnx guys...

sir, kung taga dito ka sa qc, meron akong shop na pinapagawan along congressional ave. sila yung nagsabi sakin na ingatan ko daw na huwag masira ang heater plug kasi daw mahal at mahirap hanapin. meron daw nagpagawa sa kanila ng ganon, parang 1500 ata ang isa tapos 4 yun. i dont know where they found it coz that shop is like casa, just bring your car there and they will do everything but the difference is you can watch them while repairing your car and they could give you advises as well.

good thing that i havent experience replacing that for the 10 years of ownership but i noticed that sometimes it's kinda long but it goes out.

about your tachometer, that also happened to me and i saw the repair guy connecting something on the side of the engine block (driver side). try checking it, maybe it's not connected.

[Joseeduardo]

sir, kung taga dito ka sa qc, meron akong shop na pinapagawan along congressional ave. sila yung nagsabi sakin na ingatan ko daw na huwag masira ang heater plug kasi daw mahal at mahirap hanapin. meron daw nagpagawa sa kanila ng ganon, parang 1500 ata ang isa tapos 4 yun. i dont know where they found it coz that shop is like casa, just bring your car there and they will do everything but the difference is you can watch them while repairing your car and they could give you advises as well.

good thing that i havent experience replacing that for the 10 years of ownership but i noticed that sometimes it's kinda long but it goes out.

about your tachometer, that also happened to me and i saw the repair guy connecting something on the side of the engine block (driver side). try checking it, maybe it's not connected.

Hi!

I recently purchased (February 2018) a used B2500, however, it wouldn't start since last week. Around March and April I noticed that it was having a hard time starting. It seems that it has something to do with the timer ng heater. Can anyone help or direct me on what to do? We tried replacing the starter, batteries and I think just last week my mechanic tried a different glow plug.

Still nothing.

Regards,

Edward

[Archerfish]

Hi!

I recently purchased (February 2018) a used B2500, however, it wouldn't start since last week. Around March and April I noticed that it was having a hard time starting. It seems that it has something to do with the timer ng heater. Can anyone help or direct me on what to do? We tried replacing the starter, batteries and I think just last week my mechanic tried a different glow plug.

Still nothing.

Regards,

Edward

If you suspect that you have a faulty timer, then it is possible that it is left in "open position". In that case, the other relay won't run since it is still waiting for the signal coming from the timer. I suggest you ask the help of an electrician.

It could be possible that the said timer is responsible for actuating electrical signal to your fuel pump and if it's faulty, then that means no fuel delivery.

Speaking of which, is the fuel pump in good condition? One experience I had which you could check also is the fuel filter. It was choked the whole time. When I asked the repairman to remove the fuel tank, we found out that the tank is full of dirt which is the culprit of a frequently clogged fuel filter.

Let's wait for the opinions of our experts here.