I don't know, I haven't tried it yet. Although I have tried it with my old CR-V 98 and it safe to disconnect the battery terminals so I have no worries.
According to those guys from Mazda, nothing bad will happen except that you won't be able to use i-Stop if you disconnect the terminals.
If you have time to spare, you can try it. [emoji3]
Is your M3's battery the stock one? How often do you charge it with CTEK?
18 months is too short. I'm currently using CTEK for my M3 (with i-stop) and for another 15yo accord with the hobo motolite battery. Hobo battery is now going 3 years (usually it last only for 2 years) thanks to weekly charging with CTEK.
Save this iStop relearning DIY:
1. Warm the engine up. Turn everything electrical off that you can - radio, A/C, lights, chargers, etc. Bring it close to electrical load.
2. Switch the ignition off.
3. Switch ignition to on but dont start engine. Long-press the i-stop OFF switch for 3 s within 5 s after switching the ignition ON.
4. Start the engine.
5. Press the i-stop OFF switch. Verify that the i-stop indicator light (green) flashes and stays flashing. If it does not flash, go back to Step 3.
6. Allow the engine to idle for 10 minutes, or until the i-stop indicator light (green) turns off. Mine didnt stop flashing so after 10 minutes or so i just went to step 7.
7. Switch the engine off. Wait a minute or two.
8. Start the engine. Go for a drive, and check that the i-stop system operates normally. Those with i-stop will know that you may need to drive a mile or two until it activates. Remember that i-stop will not operate when (a) for diesels...when engines are in DPF regen mode, and (b) in those other conditions stated in the manual. Also, if a new battery was fitted, it may take some time for the new battery to fully charge up before i-stop will start working. Go for a decent drive so it gets fully charged.
9. If i-stop operates as normal, reset 's done.
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Can anyone direct me to a reputable shop that could look into my current recurring predicament. Some of you might already be aware that I have been having squealling sounds coming from the belt area. Tensioner has been replaced and yet still it persists. Have been to the casa countless times, they seem to be in a daze as to the cause.. speedlab? Autoplus? Speedyfix?
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Most OE batts, regardless of car make, don't last very long & are just slapped w/ short 12mo warranties from date of release. They may have sat during transit/storage; or the factory, for cost reasons, may have opted for lower spec'd ones....On our hobo 3 was some nonMF Panasonic that died after a year...beyond warranty expiry. On our company issue Chevy was an ACDelco that died within warranty. The replacement of same brand lasted just as long.
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Very long squeals on cold starts, intermittently re appering for 5-10 mins then nada all through out the trip. Occuring whether the aircon is off or on.
Had just gotten off the casa for the nth time and current suggestions are replace belts and tenaioner again. If it re-occurs they say it might be the magnetic clutch of the aircon. Meaning i’ll be back every once in a while (such a pain)
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