Isuzu Trooper owners, interested in lifting your rig?

[chronophile]

I developed the itch to lift my locally purchased 98 Trooper V6 last year.

I started out with a upgrading my mags and wheels. Purchased a Bronx II mags set with a deeper offset and matched these with Dunlop Grandtrek AT2 265-70-16s. Achieved 0.55 inches of lift.

Next step was to upgrade to Old Man Emu coils and nitrocharger shocks. This step contributed 1.5 inches more lift.

Wow, this new setup really improved ride and handling, plus yielded a total of 2 inches of lift.

Now, almost a year after, the itch is back and after weeks of digging through the web, it now appears the following options below are the next options to consider in further lifting my rig:

[chronophile]

continued ...

The two remaining options in lifting my Trooper seems to be the following:

- Upgrading to bigger 33" tires.
- Fitting a suspension lift kit. Unfortunately, no local shop sells one for the Trooper. Found a 3 inch suspension lift kit from independent4x.com. This kit basically is composed 2" polyurethane coil spacers and bump stops.

Would anyone know if there are any shops here selling suspension lift kits for the Trooper coz I've already searched in vain.

[OTEP]

Rubber coil springs are readily available in Banawe. Sa Canada Cn$12.00 ang isang piraso. Mas mura sa Banawe.

Tapos crank your torsion bar to level off the front. Then put low profile bumpstops to maintain suspension travel and ride quality.

[chronophile]

Originally posted by OTEP
Rubber coil springs are readily available in Banawe. Sa Canada Cn$12.00 ang isang piraso. Mas mura sa Banawe.

Tapos crank your torsion bar to level off the front. Then put low profile bumpstops to maintain suspension travel and ride quality.

Sa Banawe? Would you know which shops would carry coil spacers and low profile bumpstops for Isuzu Troopers? Also, for suspension lifts in general, is it mandatory to install brake line extenders as well?

Yes, I did have the torsion bars cranked up already by about an inch last year after installation of the OME coils and shocks. Not sure though if further cranking it up (if I am able to find a suspension lift kit locally) is still possible without making the ride up front harsher.

[garyq]

interested to do this, siguro mid next year bago umulan coz nagbabaha going sa farm namin sa Antipolo. have no idea with regards to lifting the suspension. di ko pa naa-aral.

Chrono...how much yung old manEMU and nitro shocks?

Otep: bro tulong naman. I'd like a suspension lift kahit mga 1.5" lang. Rubber coil springs, i dont understand, also the torsion bar i dont have any idea. background naman.

[OTEP]

Hanapin ko yung pic. Hintay lang kayo mga kapatid.

[chronophile]

Originally posted by garyq
interested to do this, siguro mid next year bago umulan coz nagbabaha going sa farm namin sa Antipolo. have no idea with regards to lifting the suspension. di ko pa naa-aral.

Chrono...how much yung old manEMU and nitro shocks?

Otep: bro tulong naman. I'd like a suspension lift kahit mga 1.5" lang. Rubber coil springs, i dont understand, also the torsion bar i dont have any idea. background naman.

Pre, the OME coils and shocks cost me around Php29K last year. If on a tight budget, you can get the coils first to get that 1.5" lift immediately and just crank your torsion bars by about an inch or so to even out the ride. When funds permit next time, then you can get the shocks for better ride and handling.

As regards torsion bars, I'll just quote 4x4wire.com:

[[[The front end on all Isuzu SUVs and 4x4s is a torsion-sprung, unequal-length a-arm Independent Front Suspension (IFS). This is a fairly complex suspension system in which longitudinally-mounted bars (the torsion bars) are twisted to provide the spring action. One end of the torsion bar is bolted to the lower a-arm, and the other is attached to a cross-member under the vehicle, underneath the driver and passenger doors. There's a certain amount of twist placed on the bar based on the weight of the vehicle, and when the tires compress up into the wheel wells, the torsion bars twist more. They "unravel" when the tires droop. Being "independent" front suspension, each side is free to move independently of the other, which generally keeps the ride-quality smooth, but is usually considered a liability in many off-road situations.

However, in the case of lifting a truck, this "liability" becomes a blessing. Part of the torsion bar system is a bolt and lever that attaches to the rear of the torsion bar to control the ride height. From the factory, this bolt is adjusted to a level somewhere in the middle of the full range of wheel travel, allowing for a relatively even amount of upward and downward travel. In order to raise the ride height, all you need to do is "crank" the torsion bars. This is done by tightening the adjustment bolt, which pulls the lever down, twisting the torsion bar toward the ground. The torsion bar already has a load on it, so instead of twisting more, it simply raises the load (the chassis). ]]]

As regards the coil spacers, these are normally used to achieve up to a further lift of a couple of inches. Any lift higher than that normally requires custom coil springs already - ipapasadya na sa mga custom fabricatos ng coil springs, at least that's what I believe most do to get those outrageously high lifts (4 inches above siguro).

[OTEP]

Sir gary rubber coil spring SPACERS po. You put it under your coils para tumaas. Do not put it in between the turns of the coil as illustrated in the box.



Here is the basics of cranking torsion bars (it's actually a DIY thing pero you need to have wheel alignment after): http://www.4x4wire.com/mitsubishi/te...s/torsion_bar/

Low profile bumpstops: http://www.4x4wire.com/mitsubishi/tech/bumpstop/

Actually you can just use a saw to hack your present bumpstop. Keep in mind that you need to hack the bumpstop that limits downward movement. Not the one that limits upward movement.

[ARB]

also it you wnat more lift in the front without changing the bumpstop you can do the ball joint flip. you transfer the ball joint in the upper A arm from the top to the bottom of the arm. also so that you can align it. for more info refer to this link below. for more info on OME's PM me.

http://www.planetisuzu.com/articles.htm/78

[OTEP]

I don't know about Isuzus but a BJ flip is not really recommended for Mitsu rigs. It is possible but all the forces are transferred onto the BJ's bolt as it no longer sits comfortably within the A-arm. This may cause the BJ bolt to shear during off-roading or evasive maneuvers.

Personally, a BJ flip is ok for me.