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  1. Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    391
    #1341
    Regarding sa dipstick, lagyan mo lang ng wire na mag prevent pushing up para malimit talsik, ganun na din yung sa akin. Malakas na blowby, so ginawa ko, naka disconnect na crankcase breather hose going to intake palabas, nilagyan ko na lang ng homemade oil catch can then chemical hose patungong airfilter. Sinarado ko ma din yung pinagkonekan na tubo bandang intake. This way maiwasan kung iconsume ng makina sariling engine oil nya. Medyo oily nga lang air filter ko dahil may oil moist dun sa usok due from crankcase.

    Sent from a mobile device.

  2. Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Posts
    4
    #1342
    Quote Originally Posted by aioshin View Post
    Regarding sa dipstick, lagyan mo lang ng wire na mag prevent pushing up para malimit talsik, ganun na din yung sa akin. Malakas na blowby, so ginawa ko, naka disconnect na crankcase breather hose going to intake palabas, nilagyan ko na lang ng homemade oil catch can then chemical hose patungong airfilter. Sinarado ko ma din yung pinagkonekan na tubo bandang intake. This way maiwasan kung iconsume ng makina sariling engine oil nya. Medyo oily nga lang air filter ko dahil may oil moist dun sa usok due from crankcase.

    Sent from a mobile device.


    Mga Sir,

    ask ko lang sana kung may kinalaman ba ang oil cooler sa paghalo ng water sa oil..kasi po nauubos ung tubig sa radiator at tumataas ang langis sa dipstick tapos kulay gray sya...

    Kasi ang sabi ng dating mekaniko, pag oil cooler dw ung radiator and mapupuno ng lan
    gis..pero sa case ng car ko ,,,nsa langis ang water...bagong overhaul din ung radiator ko kaya walang leak..

    SAAN PO KAYA ANG PROBLEM MGA SIR? PLEASE HELP ME......

  3. Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    30
    #1343
    Quote Originally Posted by aioshin View Post
    Regarding sa dipstick, lagyan mo lang ng wire na mag prevent pushing up para malimit talsik, ganun na din yung sa akin. Malakas na blowby, so ginawa ko, naka disconnect na crankcase breather hose going to intake palabas, nilagyan ko na lang ng homemade oil catch can then chemical hose patungong airfilter. Sinarado ko ma din yung pinagkonekan na tubo bandang intake. This way maiwasan kung iconsume ng makina sariling engine oil nya. Medyo oily nga lang air filter ko dahil may oil moist dun sa usok due from crankcase.

    Sent from a mobile device.
    *aioshin,
    Right now paps am not keen in altering the original architecture of the 4JA1's ventilation system. What I want is to replace the PCV valve. But your suggestion is highly noted sir.

    Have you replaced your PCV valve before?
    Last edited by ronball; September 10th, 2017 at 12:43 AM. Reason: wrong spelling

  4. Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    391
    #1344
    Quote Originally Posted by ronball View Post
    *aioshin,
    Right now paps am not keen in altering the original architecture of the 4JA1's ventilation system. What I want is to replace the PCV valve. But your suggestion is highly noted sir.

    Have you replaced your PCV valve before?

    Honeslty, am not sure if there is a PCV Valve for our hilander. There is a hose though, the one from your crankcase going to your intake and its a breather hose.

  5. Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    30
    #1345
    Quote Originally Posted by aioshin View Post
    Honeslty, am not sure if there is a PCV Valve for our hilander. There is a hose though, the one from your crankcase going to your intake and its a breather hose.
    *aioshin,

    nung kausap ko ung salesman ng jetco ang tawag nila sa sa PCV valve is ventilation diaphragm, while dun sa Isuzu online manual na nabasa ko is PCV valve talaga ang term nila. Sa isa namang online spare parts seller sa Hongkong ang term nila is Crankcase (cylinder head cover) Ventilation Valve na para sakin is iisa lang ung tinutukoy nung mga iba-ibang description na yun at yun na nga ung PCV valve. Di lang kasi pwede mag-upload ng picture dito directly eh, kaya di ko maipakita. I have also read na isa itong part ng ventilation system na always being taken for granted or madalas pinapabayaan lang at hindi pinapalitan.

    So after owning this 2nd hand Hilander for 7+ years eh ngayon ko pa lang talaga mapapalitan ung PCV valve nya. I'll post an update if everything goes well or not. Kung di na ba mapu-push upward ang dipstick ko at mababawasan or totally mawawala na ung tilamsik ng oil sa dipstick

  6. Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    30
    #1346
    Quote Originally Posted by sniper10 View Post
    Mga Sir,

    ask ko lang sana kung may kinalaman ba ang oil cooler sa paghalo ng water sa oil..kasi po nauubos ung tubig sa radiator at tumataas ang langis sa dipstick tapos kulay gray sya...

    Kasi ang sabi ng dating mekaniko, pag oil cooler dw ung radiator and mapupuno ng lan
    gis..pero sa case ng car ko ,,,nsa langis ang water...bagong overhaul din ung radiator ko kaya walang leak..

    SAAN PO KAYA ANG PROBLEM MGA SIR? PLEASE HELP ME......
    *sniper10,

    ito'y personal na assumption lamang na pwede mong iconsider.

    May duda ako na somewhere along your engine block na iniikutan ng tubig ay may crack na at doon dumadaan ung tubig papsok sa engine mo. Pwede ka bumili sa ebay ng smoke machine. I-pressurize mo ng smoke ung engine mo at tinggnan nyo kung saan lalabas ung usok that way, mas madali ang tracing (aking suggestion lang yan)

    BTW, kumatok na ba makina mo? maaari kasi may part na ng pinagpapatungan ng head gasket mo ang bingkong na at kahit anong lapat ng gasket ay nalulusutan pa din sya ng tubig

    Sinilip na ba ng mekaniko ung thermostat housing? di pa ba corroded

    Sinilip na ba ng mekaniko ung timing gear cover? wala bang crack?

  7. Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    1,990
    #1347
    Quote Originally Posted by ronball View Post
    that happened to me 4-5 years ago....oil cooler ang sira ng sakin nasa P5k halaga nun that time pero ngayon di naman siguro yun ganun tumaas sa jetco pasay or recto ka bumili or sa multilink pasay (katabi lang un ng jetco pasay

    PS
    aw...aw...aw...ansakit sa bulsa nyan dahil twice nang naibaba ang makina
    5.5k pesoses ang oil cooler sa lazada....si anamallo auto corp ang seller.

  8. Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    6
    #1348
    sali dn ako mga kaibigan.mgtatanong lng ako..kung meron nb nkasubok mg convert ng 4ja1 hilander xtrm.lalagyan ng intercooler turbo.mgknu inabot ng parts and labor.balak ko kc iturbo un sken..model 2001.

    share ko lng dn gnwa ko sa xtrm ko about wheel bearing..so far wala ng ko nging problem sa front wheel ko.pnare-thread (roughthread)ko spindle sa machineshop.kc nun nbasag bearing kinain un lock nut ng spindle hnggang nloosethread na.lumabas n gulong buti my brake caliper,hnd tuluyan bumitaw ung gulong at mbagal lng takbo.after re-thread.centro n uli ikot ng bearing but still lage p dn kumakalog kht sobrng adjust na.cnbhan ako ng friend ko n mechanic.lagyan dw ng manipis ng spacer(washer) ung inner bearing..pra maitulak ung bearing palapit sa hub..ginawa ko nmn..so far nkakadalawang balik n sa cagayan province from manila walang adjust adjust kht loaded..monitor lng condition.tipid pa dn kht blowby na.hehehe.roundtrip cagayan-manila P2500 via ilocos

    Sent from my A33w using Tsikot Forums mobile app

  9. Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    34
    #1349
    Changed Oil for my ride today :D

    Castrol CRB turbo 4L * 900 Ace Hardware
    Air filter/cleaner * 200 suking autoshop
    Fuel filter (FC-208A) * 240 suking autoshop
    Oil filter (C-512) * 220 suking autoshop
    Change Oil labor * 250 suking gasolinahan

    next front suspension repairs may konting wiggle sa isang side eh. mukhang may papalitan akong tie rod (atleast un).

  10. Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Posts
    6
    #1350
    Mga boss ghost town na po ata itong HiLander thread. Pero magbabaka sakali parin po ako baka may makakatulong. Talaga po bang mahirap isara ang mga HiLander na unit dahil medyo nakaka bingi na lalo na at sarado lahat ng bintana hahaha. Meron po bang solution or nature na po talaga ng mga sasakyang halos 20yrs old and up ito? Salamat po sa makakasagot, nagbabaka sakali po na may ibang na paraan maliban sa pagpapapalit ng pinto mismo or lock mechanism dahil ang hirap po talagang humanap ng katay ng HiLander sa totoo lang. Maraming salamat po.

    Last edited by XanderU; April 21st, 2018 at 01:21 AM. Reason: minor typo

  11. Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    2,686
    #1351
    Quote Originally Posted by XanderU View Post
    Mga boss ghost town na po ata itong HiLander thread. Pero magbabaka sakali parin po ako baka may makakatulong. Talaga po bang mahirap isara ang mga HiLander na unit dahil medyo nakaka bingi na lalo na at sarado lahat ng bintana hahaha. Meron po bang solution or nature na po talaga ng mga sasakyang halos 20yrs old and up ito? Salamat po sa makakasagot, nagbabaka sakali po na may ibang na paraan maliban sa pagpapapalit ng pinto mismo or lock mechanism dahil ang hirap po talagang humanap ng katay ng HiLander sa totoo lang. Maraming salamat po.

    I think this is normal, basing from our previous hilander. There was a time that water would drip around the door. I even "lost" my steering​ wheel! Good thing I was in a very busy street so I wasn't driving fast. And of all places for an ambulance being towed, the rope severed just besides me! Imagine the traffic jam that caused it.

    ... nature na po talaga ng mga sasakyang halos 20yrs old and up ito?
    I don't think so. Our CR-V 98 is 20 years old and still runs fine. It might be that the vehicle was subjected to abuse beyond its normal design. In our case, the hilander was used as a utility/delivery vehicle and no specific driver was assigned to take care of it.

    Regarding your concern about alternative solution to your door, I believed that you are correct that there is no other solution to it except to what you have said. There is the possibility that the door is no longer aligned.

  12. Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Posts
    6
    #1352
    Quote Originally Posted by Archerfish View Post
    I think this is normal, basing from our previous hilander. There was a time that water would drip around the door. I even "lost" my steering​ wheel! Good thing I was in a very busy street so I wasn't driving fast. And of all places for an ambulance being towed, the rope severed just besides me! Imagine the traffic jam that caused it.



    I don't think so. Our CR-V 98 is 20 years old and still runs fine. It might be that the vehicle was subjected to abuse beyond its normal design. In our case, the hilander was used as a utility/delivery vehicle and no specific driver was assigned to take care of it.
    Ok boss maraming salamat po sa reply, as far as performance goes wala pong problema. Actually napakaganda po ng performance ng hilander namin tested sa long drive at matipid sa konsumo kahit naka aircon pa (modified na yung aircon sa likod). Problema ko lang po talaga ay yung mga pinto dahil kailangan "with feelings" ang pagsasara. Mukang dapat ay humanap na ako ng kinakatay na hilander at mag dasal na maayos pa ang mga door, window at lock mechanism nila.

  13. Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Posts
    6
    #1353
    Quote Originally Posted by Archerfish View Post
    I think this is normal, basing from our previous hilander. There was a time that water would drip around the door. I even "lost" my steering​ wheel! Good thing I was in a very busy street so I wasn't driving fast. And of all places for an ambulance being towed, the rope severed just besides me! Imagine the traffic jam that caused it.



    I don't think so. Our CR-V 98 is 20 years old and still runs fine. It might be that the vehicle was subjected to abuse beyond its normal design. In our case, the hilander was used as a utility/delivery vehicle and no specific driver was assigned to take care of it.

    Regarding your concern about alternative solution to your door, I believed that you are correct that there is no other solution to it except to what you have said. There is the possibility that the door is no longer aligned.
    Salamat sa reply boss, pero as far as performance goes wala ako reklamo sa unit namin. Yung pinto lang talaga at mga window raiser . Balak ko na nga i-perma shut yung mga bintana kaya lang sa init ngayon at sa pagtitipid kailangan talaga mag baba ng bintana. Nag papractice parin kasi ako dahil bago lang akong nag da-drive. Ok naman sa highway kaso medyo bulok pa sa parking at reverse. Wala pambayad sa driving school kaya turo turo lang .

  14. Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    2,686
    #1354
    Quote Originally Posted by XanderU View Post
    Salamat sa reply boss, pero as far as performance goes wala ako reklamo sa unit namin. Yung pinto lang talaga at mga window raiser . Balak ko na nga i-perma shut yung mga bintana kaya lang sa init ngayon at sa pagtitipid kailangan talaga mag baba ng bintana. Nag papractice parin kasi ako dahil bago lang akong nag da-drive. Ok naman sa highway kaso medyo bulok pa sa parking at reverse. Wala pambayad sa driving school kaya turo turo lang .
    Allow me to clarify a few things... when I said "it's normal", I was referring to the issue about closing the door and it's locking mechanism. You really need to slam it. This is the same with L300, I need to slam the right side of the door. I think you can expect this kind of built quality to utility vehicles. So I think I made a mistake of comparing the door of our CR-V 98 with it after remembering this relatively new L300 FB. Those issues I mentioned, like dripping water around the door, are due to abuse and negligence as I mentioned in my earlier post.

    Regarding driving school, I highly recommend that you enroll. I admit I have no experience with driving schools, but I am requiring my two grown-up kids to enroll should the time comes that they drive full time and have a car of their own. I believe you'll learn a trick or two from them in just a few hours compared to learning it on your own through experience which might take you weeks or months or even a year. I'm exaggerating of course, but I know you get the point.

    Happy driving and be safe always.

  15. Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Posts
    6
    #1355
    Quote Originally Posted by Archerfish View Post
    Allow me to clarify a few things... when I said "it's normal", I was referring to the issue about closing the door and it's locking mechanism. You really need to slam it. This is the same with L300, I need to slam the right side of the door. I think you can expect this kind of built quality to utility vehicles. So I think I made a mistake of comparing the door of our CR-V 98 with it after remembering this relatively new L300 FB. Those issues I mentioned, like dripping water around the door, are due to abuse and negligence as I mentioned in my earlier post.

    Regarding driving school, I highly recommend that you enroll. I admit I have no experience with driving schools, but I am requiring my two grown-up kids to enroll should the time comes that they drive full time and have a car of their own. I believe you'll learn a trick or two from them in just a few hours compared to learning it on your own through experience which might take you weeks or months or even a year. I'm exaggerating of course, but I know you get the point.

    Happy driving and be safe always.
    Ok boss maraming salamat po.

    Sent from my X300 using Tapatalk

  16. Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Posts
    4
    #1356
    [QUOTE=n_spinner06;2392664]hi-lander xtrm yr 2000 model

    axle sheared off...only 2 of us in the vehicle when this happened, no bang our loud sound when it gave out. was in 5th gear running 60-70kph. just lost power to the wheels suddenly and had to have it towed.

    total cost for replacement of the axle(surplus), new bearing,new rubber for the pistons in the brake actuator, etc is around 5k in isuzu rizal(marcos highway), 900 pesos of which was for labor. wondering if any of you experienced having a sheared off axle...

    I got same experienced here in CdeO it suddenly lost power while at 5th speed gear and luckily the drum and hub did not separated and i found out later on that the axle was separated totally when iI lift the rear wheel with a jack. My 2 kids and my wife was with me on that time. Towing cost to the location in front of my house cost me around P3000.

  17. Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Posts
    4
    #1357
    Sa aking xtrm nag leak yung oil dip stick sa dulo ng oil pan kasi ang ginagawa ng mekaniko noon unang owner ang dip stick hindi na screw sa itaas at pagtanggal ko sa dip stick tube napansin ko sira yung inner seal. pinalitan ko yung dalawang maliit na oil ring seal na bago yung seal na yun silicon type orange ang color kasi high temperature huwag yung ordinary na maiitim. Sa ngayon ok na ang xtrm ko walang ng oil leak.

  18. Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    34
    #1358
    let's revive this thread !

    Had a problem with our Hi-Lander last holy week. Lost power on the rear wheels after hitting the speed or rumble strips in Star Toll * around 90kph. with 4 passengers slightly panicked due to the rattling/noise. I was able to steer on the road shoulder safely. Inspected the problem and found that the rear flange yoke has torn apart. Damaged the U Cross joint. but transmission shaft still intact but slightly loose.

    Long story short. Got towed to the nearest toll exit. (Malvar) and towed again to the nearest auto shop in Lipa.

    24 hours later.

    AAP towing service = 1680
    auto shop towing service - 1500
    rear flange yoke - 750
    U cross joint - 500
    Gear oil - 500
    labor - 1200

    Got back to Manila but experienced some bouncy suspension and unstable ride when over 70 kph.
    Maybe the rear shock absorbers need some replacing?

  19. Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    1,408
    #1359
    Quote Originally Posted by cjgambit View Post
    let's revive this thread !

    Had a problem with our Hi-Lander last holy week. Lost power on the rear wheels after hitting the speed or rumble strips in Star Toll * around 90kph. with 4 passengers slightly panicked due to the rattling/noise. I was able to steer on the road shoulder safely. Inspected the problem and found that the rear flange yoke has torn apart. Damaged the U Cross joint. but transmission shaft still intact but slightly loose.

    Long story short. Got towed to the nearest toll exit. (Malvar) and towed again to the nearest auto shop in Lipa.

    24 hours later.

    AAP towing service = 1680
    auto shop towing service - 1500
    rear flange yoke - 750
    U cross joint - 500
    Gear oil - 500
    labor - 1200

    Got back to Manila but experienced some bouncy suspension and unstable ride when over 70 kph.
    Maybe the rear shock absorbers need some replacing?
    Glad to know everyone's safe, I remember a few years back kami naman parang humiwalay front wheel due to the broken ball joint while approaching the flyover in San Fernando, Pampanga, buti na lang di doon nangyari. Good thing we're just a few hundred meters away from Isuzu Pampanga. [emoji28]

    We're currently restoring our '99 XTRM, if you need parts try Olympia Auto Supply, dun kami halos nakabili lahat, brand new old stock, pero hirap na din maghanap ng parts ng Hi-Lander.

    Sent from my E6683 using Tapatalk

  20. Join Date
    May 2019
    Posts
    1
    #1360
    Im new here and New to car things.
    We recently bought a 1997 Isuzu Hilander with 100 thousand + milage.

    Does this car have an OBD2 port? I watched a video on youtube that OBD2 is standard on cars starting from 1996.
    I checked it out this morning and I couldn't see it even under the steering wheels.

    Thanks in advance.

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isuzu hilander owners