Installing a turbo boost controller has always been considered a low cost engine boost performance upgrade, whether it's a manual or electronic type controller. Electronic boost controllers can be found in the turbo equipped variants of Subaru.
The principle behind the boost is quite simple since it simply lets out pressure from the wastegate to be vented externally. I saw one before fitted in a Pajero with a simple T-junction coupling along the boost line/tube with a release valve in the form of a screw. The screw is where you adjust how much pressure you want to let out of the turbo wastegate thus increasing the boost levels.
But as they say, you don't get something for nothing and just like any engine boost upgrade, this system also has some dangers. The added boost levels that you are sure to gain can affect your existing factory spec turbo system in the form of premature wear and tear from the engine block all the way to the fuel pump and injectors. Before, I've seen some fuel pumps destroyed beyond repair because they couldn't handle the extra "feed" of fuel required for the extra airflow needed to boost the turbo.
Although it is pretty obvious that it will give you the top end speed results you are looking for, as opposed to the chip which concentrates more on torque or low end power, it still does not solve the problem of turbo lag.
Last edited by Memphis Raines; March 3rd, 2008 at 06:39 PM.
So Memphs, what's your take on the H20/methane injection for power and speed? Any input/experience on the issue?
So far I only have praises for WM Injection system. It sure is some kind of a miracle product that gives out nothing but benefits especially for turbo diesel engines like ours.
I saw this injection system on t.v. a long time ago pa because it was also being used in airplanes. The hype about it died down on the introduction of Intercooler engine systems. So today this system will be of great help for better emission results as well as the Zero carbon deposits. I also love the advantage of a cooler engine (who doesn't).
My only fear is the water mixture itself since in the WM injection thread, they explained that the mixture is water and alcohol at 50/50. The alcohol is good since it is also considered as an anti-freeze agent in snowy countries, the water will bring with it some corrosion to the fuel system and engine components. Another concern of mine would be the device that controls the flow of the mixture into the combustion chambers since it will obviously be crucial to inject just the right amount because a slight overfeed of water, even at 50% only, will shut-off the engine.
But then again that's just my analysis.
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Just wanted to clear up some Water injection myths. It does not cause any corrosion you can use strait water and it is still not a issue, The water comes out in a fine mist almost a fog at very high pressure, This mix pulls the heat out of the air as well as the surrounding metal, It is in its steam form by the time it hits your combustion chamber. The alcohol portion turns to vapor at 64C thats why there is no corrosion.
The only way you could get corrosion is to run the system with the vehicle off and let the solution sit in the engine. The water alcohol goes through the air intake track and has nothing to do with your fuel system. The only part of the fuel system will come in contact with it is the tips of the injectors which are in the combustion chamber this is were there is nothing but steam and vapor left of the mix in the combustion process.
Nozzle sizing is what is use to control the amount of fluid the vehicle gets and the pressure switch or Progressive controller injects the mix at the level needed. 99% of vehicles intakes were designed by a computer and are designed to flow air evenly to all cylinders this gives you the equal distribution of the mix.
There is no cleaner engine than one using alcohol injection, You will have almost no carbon build up on your internals. Take a peak at the alcohol injection post for some examples.
As long as you install your system properly and use a proper system you will have no issues it can only be on with the ignition on so you do not have worry about flooding the motor.
dvldoc - I was hoping you would explain that, thanks for the reply.
It was also in NHRA Drag Racing that I learned about WM Injection some years back and aside from the water and alcohol, they also mixed some wee bit of water soluble oil to prevent corrosion build up. I believe it was John Force who explained that during an interview at one of his runs at the Bonneville Salt Flats.
Oh well, just some inputs.![]()
WM injection is banned from NHRA since 2005 because it reduced the intake temp.
The NHRA Rulebook states "Any method of artificially cooling or
heating fuel prohibited (i.e., cool cans, Freon, wet rags, ECT.) except
as noted in class requirements. Cool cans, wet towels, ect. Are
permitted in Super Stock, Stock, Super Comp, Super Gas, Super Street,
and E.T. classes. Wet towels, rags, ice, ect. must be removed before
vehicle leaves staging area. Ambient-temperature air only; cooling or
otherwise changing of the condition of the intake air is prohibited.
Spraying of the intake with any artificial spray or coolant prohibited."
WM injection is banned from NHRA since 2005 because it reduced the intake temp.The oil is for the pump because it did not have seals that wear 100% resistante to methanol not for the vehicle. I run a cleaner through my pump about 1 time every 6 months. Anything that removes lime and hardwater stains works great. Even I am sometimes lazy and don't used distilled water or even filtered water in my system. A good flushing every 6 months (not connected to the intake of course) is a good ideal.
The NHRA Rulebook states "Any method of artificially cooling or
heating fuel prohibited (i.e., cool cans, Freon, wet rags, ECT.) except
as noted in class requirements. Cool cans, wet towels, ect. Are
permitted in Super Stock, Stock, Super Comp, Super Gas, Super Street,
and E.T. classes. Wet towels, rags, ice, ect. must be removed before
vehicle leaves staging area. Ambient-temperature air only; cooling or
otherwise changing of the condition of the intake air is prohibited.
Spraying of the intake with any artificial spray or coolant prohibited."
mga sir may dmax owner po ba d2 na balak i benta ung stock rims nila? Pm nyo na lng po ako
Hey, thanks a lot guys (Memphis and Dvldoc)! That certainly cleared up a lot of things about the WM injection. I hope a Dmax owner will be present at Clark for the planned demo and data gathering on the effects of the injection on different diesel engines![]()
Memps, jubilum
same here hoping to have somebody from dmax owners who can attend the demo sa clark, pero parang walang interested eh...
decide na para tayo-tayo na lang mag install at EB rin tayo sa cebu puhon...preparing the necessary taps here on board na at kung madala at maipadeliver sa cebu ni dvldoc ang kit ko
...
Ssrbogoy- i'm not really the diy guy like you hehe. I don't think I can handle to proper maintainance of the system. Might as well wait for a fixed distributor before plunging into it![]()
Maybe Arb can do that as he's based in Bacolod and has the proper shop to go with it? hehe What about it Arb?![]()
I tried back reading but naduduling na ako. Help!
My stock tires are about to need replacement.
Are there disadvantages to changing the tires to slightly wider than original?
I just replaced my D-Max's tires recently. I initially wanted to change the stock Bridgestone tires to the Goodyear Wrangler HPs that the new D-Maxs in the showrooms have but they were not available in the 3 Goodyear dealers I inquired from. I settled for Yokohama Geolandars which I got from Minerva Tire Center.
Welcome to the thread!
Disadvantages include a 'slight' decrease on the top end speed, slight difference in fuel consumption due to the larger diameter and added weight.
Advantages will include more cushion, larger rubber contact patch on the road leading to a more stable feel behind the wheel especially at high speeds.
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thanks a lot!
planning to get WIDER tires. profile will be the same. so basically, DIAMETER will remain the same??? Just a bigger contact patch, right?
please clarify...i've always kept all my previous cars stock. save for changing the horn.
i'm very happy with my d-max. LS 4x2. Got it 2004. no complains. except -- a friend gave me pro-comp shocks for my dmax.