Engine Mods for Honda City Type Z

[<smash>]

for me:

a. budget of 50k.. IHE upgrade + suspension OR change head from a d15b 20 cams and ecu

b. budget of 100k... slap a b16a + suspension

c. budget of 150k - 200k... slap a b18c + suspension

for me pinakasulit option b and c. pagsaksak, game na kagad for power.

Oops, this answers my question on the budget. Clarify ko lang, 50 for IHE upgrade + suspension + change head?

[[archie]]

in that option, intant power mabibigay ng d15b 20 cam + the p08 programable ecu.

my estimate would be:

d15b 20 cam vtec head around 20k - 25k (including swap of your vtec head)

IHE is also important as what sir GH menioned. cost around 25k - 30k (if your willing to go second hand). tanabe medallion exhaust, mandrel bent headers and straight pipe, and knn racing filters but you calso get CAI (cold air intake if it does not flood in your area).

suspension: HnR, neuspeed, or tanabe lowering + kyb gas shocks around 20k

you can get away with 50k - 60k with vtec and IHE upgrade + around 10k for dyno time + tuning and programing the ecu. with this you can run with the more modern sedans out there.

there are a lot of shops that can do this. if you live up north, fixstop at mindanao ave, down south, hongly sports at sucat. etc. i suggest fix stop kasi magaling sila sa mga upgrade and do not charge too much.

with all this:

25k = vtec plus p08 ecu
30k = IHE upgrade second hand
20k = suspension
10k = dyno tuning and programing ecu

85k all in all. but you can try vtec head with the p08 ecu first and see how that feels.

[<smash>]

in that option, intant power mabibigay ng d15b 20 cam + the p08 programable ecu.

my estimate would be:

d15b 20 cam vtec head around 20k - 25k (including swap of your vtec head)

IHE is also important as what sir GH menioned. cost around 25k - 30k (if your willing to go second hand). tanabe medallion exhaust, mandrel bent headers and straight pipe, and knn racing filters but you calso get CAI (cold air intake if it does not flood in your area).

suspension: HnR, neuspeed, or tanabe lowering + kyb gas shocks around 20k

you can get away with 50k - 60k with vtec and IHE upgrade + around 10k for dyno time + tuning and programing the ecu. with this you can run with the more modern sedans out there.

there are a lot of shops that can do this. if you live up north, fixstop at mindanao ave, down south, hongly sports at sucat. etc. i suggest fix stop kasi magaling sila sa mga upgrade and do not charge too much.

with all this:

25k = vtec plus p08 ecu
30k = IHE upgrade second hand
20k = suspension
10k = dyno tuning and programing ecu

85k all in all. but you can try vtec head with the p08 ecu first and see how that feels.

thanks archie! I think I'll start with the head first then proceed as you outlined here depending on my feel. Btw I live near Banawe so Mindanao ave. is a short drive from here.

[ghosthunter]

I am just suggesting a simple IHE + vtec/afc upgrades + dyno tuning time.

This would result in a more budget friendly upgraded engine that would deliver the most bang for the buck at this level. A modest bump in the power band (not just peak power) could be attained which would let the aging Honda City 1.5l VTi Type Z keep up with more current cars.

Of course, tuning the engine to run on Petron Blaze100 would give it more power but unable to use lesser grades of gasoline. Solution here is to use the piggyback ECU from SPEEDLAB called UNICHIP. You can program two (or more) fuel maps which would let you have either a high performance (with high octane gasoline) or semi-performance (with regular E10 unleaded gasoline) settings. Of course this will cost more but it might be worth it IF you plan for more future mods for your engine/car.

[[archie]]

thanks archie! I think I'll start with the head first then proceed as you outlined here depending on my feel. Btw I live near Banawe so Mindanao ave. is a short drive from here.

no prob sir. yung suggest ko is just on top of my head. marami din pwede offer yung mga shop since they have the experience on performance. ask fixstop for other options na rin.

GH has a great suggestion, speedlab is also a reputable shop that can do wonders to your engine. hindi lang kaya ng bulsa ko kaya not much experience with them.

good luck sir...

[<smash>]

I am just suggesting a simple IHE + vtec/afc upgrades + dyno tuning time.

This would result in a more budget friendly upgraded engine that would deliver the most bang for the buck at this level. A modest bump in the power band (not just peak power) could be attained which would let the aging Honda City 1.5l VTi Type Z keep up with more current cars.

Of course, tuning the engine to run on Petron Blaze100 would give it more power but unable to use lesser grades of gasoline. Solution here is to use the piggyback ECU from SPEEDLAB called UNICHIP. You can program two (or more) fuel maps which would let you have either a high performance (with high octane gasoline) or semi-performance (with regular E10 unleaded gasoline) settings. Of course this will cost more but it might be worth it IF you plan for more future mods for your engine/car.

Sir could you please explain the vtec/afc upgrades a bit more?

Thanks!

[ghosthunter]

Sir could you please explain the vtec/afc upgrades a bit more?

Thanks!

Your 1.5L engine is a vtec engine, where a 4th valve can be activated to open at higher RPMs to help produce more power. At lower RPMs, the 4th valve is either closed or partially open only which helps improve fuel economy.

A gas fed engine can improve it's power by running a richer mix of air/fuel or more fuel than "standard" or stoich. Running an engine slightly leaner (or less fuel to air) gives it better fuel mileage.

A electric device generally called an AFC (Air Flow Converter) is used to electronically adjust the air-fuel ratio going to the engine at specific RPM ranges. So it is possible to set the engine to run slightly lean at low rpm and slightly rich at high rpm to give a mix of good economy and power depending on your driving style.

There is a device called the V-AFC which is a version of the AFC specific for the Honda VTEC engines. The "V" part is for the vtec portion of the Honda engine. This can lets you control when the 4th valve opens. Usually people want to make it open earlier so the engine can produce a bit more power lower in the RPM range.

These devices are fine but without proper tuning, you can much easier loose power than gain a single HP. This is where dyno-tuning becomes important. On a dyno, a tuner can see the effects of the changes he does with the AFC and other tuning devices like piggy-back ECU. So the tuner will decide what changes & adjustments will give the best preferred effect.

Before the dyno, it is all a guessing game and often, the guesses are way off the mark.

[<smash>]

no prob sir. yung suggest ko is just on top of my head. marami din pwede offer yung mga shop since they have the experience on performance. ask fixstop for other options na rin.

GH has a great suggestion, speedlab is also a reputable shop that can do wonders to your engine. hindi lang kaya ng bulsa ko kaya not much experience with them.

good luck sir...

thanks archie! I'll post updates to share with you guys.

[<smash>]

Your 1.5L engine is a vtec engine, where a 4th valve can be activated to open at higher RPMs to help produce more power. At lower RPMs, the 4th valve is either closed or partially open only which helps improve fuel economy.

A gas fed engine can improve it's power by running a richer mix of air/fuel or more fuel than "standard" or stoich. Running an engine slightly leaner (or less fuel to air) gives it better fuel mileage.

A electric device generally called an AFC (Air Flow Converter) is used to electronically adjust the air-fuel ratio going to the engine at specific RPM ranges. So it is possible to set the engine to run slightly lean at low rpm and slightly rich at high rpm to give a mix of good economy and power depending on your driving style.

There is a device called the V-AFC which is a version of the AFC specific for the Honda VTEC engines. The "V" part is for the vtec portion of the Honda engine. This can lets you control when the 4th valve opens. Usually people want to make it open earlier so the engine can produce a bit more power lower in the RPM range.

These devices are fine but without proper tuning, you can much easier loose power than gain a single HP. This is where dyno-tuning becomes important. On a dyno, a tuner can see the effects of the changes he does with the AFC and other tuning devices like piggy-back ECU. So the tuner will decide what changes & adjustments will give the best preferred effect.

Before the dyno, it is all a guessing game and often, the guesses are way off the mark.

cool! where can i get a V-AFC? Speedlab? They have the piggy-back ECU there according to their website.

[ghosthunter]

cool! where can i get a V-AFC? Speedlab? They have the piggy-back ECU there according to their website.

SPEEDLAB doesn't have V-AFC. You will have to check with other shops for them. Or you can check the "for sale" sections of car forums for used performance parts including V-AFC. Typically Honda based car forums will have a bigger chance of having them on sale.

SPEEDLAB's solution is the UNICHIP which has more functions and features than the AFC. It does cost more but it can accommodate future mods up to turbocharging if that is within your planned route of mods.