Overhaul...at 88,000 kms

[rxbandits]

honda accord 97 exi 2.0

ok ganito po ang nangyari approximately 4-5 days ago pumunta ako sa shop sa kamuning to get my valve clearance adjusted for the 2nd time kasi may naririnig padin ako konti valve noise so inadjust siya according to spec which is 9in 12ex pero hindi masyado pinalamig yung engine..

after maadjust ang valve clearance nag start pero weird ang takbo palyado at nangnginig after 2minutes namatay..never pa ako namatayan ng makina sa auto so it felt really strange nag troubleshoot yung mechanic it turns out wala daw ako spark sa distributor so nagpalit ako may spark na may redondo pero ayaw mag turnover parang lunod ang symptoms mejo amoy gas din

so check ang fuel pump , injectors , no MIL , and may gas din of course after everything hindi na tumakbo yung auto so pina-tow ko papunta honda libis to find out kung ano talaga sira kasi sabi ng mechanic ECU (computer box) nadaw feeling ko nagtuturo nalang kasi wala ng idea...anyways sabi ng honda libis loose daw ang compression ng #4 chamber no other specifics as to whether it's the seals or valves or the piston itself...prior to this the car did not give me any headaches there's no visible smoke of any kind on any rpm

what's supposed to be a preventive maintenance check turned into a major overhauling job at just 88,000 kms...the car is A/T and was never driven hard as in never!

PS
i was wondering why honda did not provide sufficient information as to what needs to be replaced

***point of concern***

kung sinasabi ng honda libis na #4 cylinder ang loose dapat aandar padin ang auto diba? mahina significantly pero aandar ang makina tama po ba ako dito? similar when you unplug the spark plug boot in one cylinder palyado pero nag iidle diba?

[oj88]

If I have to make an educated guess, the mechanic most likely messed up. The valve clearances were probably set too tight that the valves were no longer properly seated on the valve seats and hence, not sealing it. This will allow gasoline to either go back out the intake manifold or out the exhaust port during the compression stroke. That might account why the engine developed loose compression.

[niky]

Agree. If the problem only started after the valve adjustment, it's probably that.

[mark_t]

Bwisit ano? I bet hindi mechanic napuntahan nya.

i was wondering why honda did not provide sufficient information as to what needs to be replaced

Hindi pa rin nila nakikita sira sa loob, the compression test is the first step in failure analysis
and your engine failed it. And they do not follow the so "called dukot standard".
If your engine fails a compression test overhaul na agad yan.
The chief mechanic will base his reccomendations from what ever little info
that is available to him which is

NO#4 CYLINDER FAILED COMPRESSION TEST AT 88,000KMS ODO SINCE NEW.

kung sinasabi ng honda libis na #4 cylinder ang loose dapat aandar padin ang auto diba? mahina significantly pero aandar ang makina tama po ba ako dito? similar when you unplug the spark plug boot in one cylinder palyado pero nag iidle diba?

Iba ang situation ng tinatanggal lang ang spark plug at iba ang me sira na talaga, you cannot and should not compare them dahil malilito ka kasi hindi mo na na factor na kung
ano ano na ginawa ng nakasira para hanapin ang sira na nagawa nya.
You have to go back to what else did he do after closing the cylinder head cover na hindi mo na i kwento sa honda libis. Which they dont care to know and did not question you about.
Because it is "water under the bridge".

NO#4 CYLINDER FAILED COMPRESSION TEST AT 88,000KMS ODO SINCE NEW.

[bambino]

meron procedure dito , cylinder leakage test , THEY USE CYLINDER LEAKAGE TESTER.

set the suspected cylinder at TDC compression stroke and hook-up the tester , check the tappet clearance by rocking .and go from there .

[mark_t]

meron procedure dito , cylinder leakage test , THEY USE CYLINDER LEAKAGE TESTER.

set the suspected cylinder at TDC compression stroke and hook-up the tester , check the tappet clearance by rocking .and go from there .

Dinala nya sa CASA, so me liability issues na iyan in terms of warranties.

The question is would Honda allow a top overhaul and accept liabilities?

Siguro hindi. Sa independent autoshop puede.

[[archie]]

sa tingin ko din sa tappet adjustment yan. kaya pinapalamig muna makina bago tappet para sure tama yung clearance niyan. maybe start from the rocker arm then trace it from there

tama, kung #4 cylinder lang, dapat start pa rin yan kaso parang may katok or papalya lang yung makina.

[v6dreamer]

Many times when you carefully measure using the hot or cold specifications you'll find that the intake and exhaust valve lash is within spec and you don't need to make any adjustment. Sometimes small noise on the valve goes away if you do long driving. What you should do now is do a compression check. They could have slightly bent a valve when they had the valves mal-adjusted.

[4JGtootsie]

Magbacktrack ka lang kung ano ginawa ng mechanic sa kamuning and try to return it. May nagalaw lang yan. Hindi basta basta nasisira ang ECU or biglang mawalan ng compression by mere adjustment of valves unless valve set no. 4 is not sitting properly hence loose compression will manifest like earlier mentioined.

As the saying goes kung hindi sira wag aayusin!

[rxbandits]

pulled the car out from honda libis and had forcedspeed in kalayaan do the valve job...when it arrived sa forcedspeed they pulled out all the tools needed for leak testing the valves and compression tester gauge these guys are all business...after thoroughly testing they figured out it was a leaky valve (tukod daw) since air is coming out of the exhaust pipe and a little out the intake manifold

they went and took the head apart only to see that there were no bent valves instead it was all covered in grime from the seats to the valve itself, before taking everything apart they tested it for leak once more by putting gasoline through the intake port and all 16 valves we're leaking so they grinded everything down to make sure they're all sealed

the valve job would be done by tomorrow i hope it starts up with no problem wish me luck

[sequoia]

pwedeng malaman kung which shop na yun sa kamuning ang dapat iwasan at kung sinong seraniko?

[kenzie]

pwedeng malaman kung which shop na yun sa kamuning ang dapat iwasan at kung sinong seraniko?

yep what shop messed up your car? pls inform us so we could stay away from them ... Also di ba dapat yung shop kung san mo unang dinala ang magbayad sa magiging gastos mo dyan sa forcedspeed? anyways kano total damage mo dyan sa forcedspeed?.. good luck bro

[tip_tipid]

they went and took the head apart only to see that there were no bent valves instead it was all covered in grime from the seats to the valve itself, before taking everything apart they tested it for leak once more by putting gasoline through the intake port and all 16 valves we're leaking so they grinded everything down to make sure they're all sealed

the valve job would be done by tomorrow i hope it starts up with no problem wish me luck

the kamuning mechanic is not at fault here guys. it is the grime in the valve stem that caused a valve not to seat properly, this problem usually are caused by oil additives, or certain brands of oil.

[bambino]

+1 for TIP , it needs a series of tests to confirm what may have caused the trouble after somebody touched it .


the main thing here is a few of the mechanics in the Philippines ,although most are hardworking and knowledgeable , have no enough tools and equipment to do a job . even a simple check and at the end they end up guessing.

[tip_tipid]

what's supposed to be a preventive maintenance check turned into a major overhauling job at just 88,000 kms...the car is A/T and was never driven hard as in never!

This is a misconception on most drivers. To help clear the intake and exhaust ports of deposits or sludge, I would run the engine hard from time to time. This will ensure also that the engine is at the top of its' performance.

[rxbandits]

yeah i've heard about that italian tune up thing..anyways forcedspeed's done with the valve job however the car still won't turnover now they're are looking at the distributor as i've mentioned if you are reading this from the top , the 1st mechanic claimed that my distributor was at fault and showed me that there was no spark so he switched it with another distributor assembly he happens to have lying in his shop yes there was spark but still no go..so thanks but no thanks...

so i went back to kamuning a little while ago to get the original distributor the one that came from my car only to find that there's no "IC" as in binaklas and he told me na tinapon niya nadaw since wala namang spark or sira...so went back to forcedspeed and showed it to them and said they would troubleshoot some more and said that they've checked the ECU and everything seems fine no burns etc but i won't rule that out just yet

I called honda and spoke to the guy that performed the check on my car and told him and his supervisor that if it turns out that it is indeed an electrical problem they're going to hear from me again as it was in my initial request to have the electrical components checked and i have the receipt that says exactly that...the receipt also says that my car is due for top overhaul so i did exactly that but again it won't turnover.

i am just tired of getting thrown around like this i'll leave it to forcedspeed i figured if they can tune high performance drift/drag cars they can certainly make old peppy accord move without being pushed.

[rxbandits]

The name of the shop is monte carlo motors but listen i wouldn't blame them just yet , They haven't exactly figured out what's wrong with it so it's all up in the air as of the moment

[voltscastillo]

bummer, i hope forcedspeed gets it... i got nothing but good reviews from that shop. tried their services a couple times too, valve and timing adjustments. they're quite good.

worse comes to worst, i'd entrust a rebuild to forcedspeed or H3, but if cost is not an issue, casa is a good way to go, too.

but i'm 90% sure your accord wont be requiring a rebuild. rebuild cases usually look and sound a whole lot worse than simple non-ignition issues.

[bambino]

RX, i think your best bet now is only to go back to the dealership ,that's the only option .

your car is not that complicated to work with , i'm just really surprised why the shops you have been into can't figure it out yet.

here , things to be done before another major spending on the way ;

check the spark quality , ( at least 25kv)
fuel pressure ( 30-35 psi )multiport
injector on time
don't forget the timing
check the compression one more time ( 125-175psi)
check for codes IF ANY

THE CAR SHOULD FIRE UP

[rxbandits]

few hours after posting i got a call from forcedspeed told me that they got the car running ... whew! what i relief i must say, anyways it was a faulty distributor component not the IC but something else that's called secondary winding terminal turns out it was giving a weak spark kind of pale red color when shorted using screwdriver so he gutted my old dizzy and put the good component in my current dizzy and got the car running...kudos to forcedspeed for completing the job in approx 5-6 days

it could have been shorter if only honda libis have not ruled out all possible electrical fault after "thorough inspection" causing forcedspeed to focus on other troubleshooting steps

it is quite a shame that i went to honda libis solely to have the car's electrical system checked out believing that they have all the necessary tools for it my service receipt also indicate that my initial request is a full system electrical test i mean how can they even screw this up

so come monday i ll be knocking on their door again to try to get my money back and some...and oh yes it would make for a good argument wish me luck..lolz