need help hard starting corolla big body 2e

**dod** · July 6th, 2012 09:03 PM

i have 1993 toyota corolla xe. i'm experiencing hard starting especially in the morning or after a prolonged (4 hrs or longer) period of non-use. engine runs fine when it is warmed up. my car was submerged during ondoy. in the past 2 months, i've had the following done:
1. replaced 5k carb back to 2e big body carb
2. installed brand new original hi-tension wires
3. changed air filter element/fuel filter
4. changed alternator -higher amp surplus (original - overhauled once in 2010 - finally gave up)
5. replaced sparkplugs
right after the alternator was replaced, noticed that the idling jumped to 1000 rpm. after adjusting idle to 800-850 rpm, noticed that the air-fuel mixture was too rich when we took a look at the carb (taking out the air filter element) - gasoline was covering the carb. this was about a month ago, fc was better, but cold hard starting became the norm. i've tried all the advice - like stepping on the accelerator pedal before starting (which worked before the alternator was replaced and air-fuel mixture was adjusted) but as of now, the first try to start always ends up in the engine dying (nalulunod). after getting the engine started, i should not put my foot on the pedal or try putting it in gear or else, the engine will die. also, i noticed that when i changed the sparkplugs, there was gasoline in cylinders 2 & 3.
what could be the problem? the carb ( i bought it brand new last may 4),my 5k carb worked ok except that i wanted to get my car back to original specs. need help.

**jick.cejoco** · July 6th, 2012 09:13 PM

Originally Posted by dod

i have 1993 toyota corolla xe. i'm experiencing hard starting especially in the morning or after a prolonged (4 hrs or longer) period of non-use. engine runs fine when it is warmed up. my car was submerged during ondoy. in the past 2 months, i've had the following done:
1. replaced 5k carb back to 2e big body carb
2. installed brand new original hi-tension wires
3. changed air filter element/fuel filter
4. changed alternator -higher amp surplus (original - overhauled once in 2010 - finally gave up)
5. replaced sparkplugs
right after the alternator was replaced, noticed that the idling jumped to 1000 rpm. after adjusting idle to 800-850 rpm, noticed that the air-fuel mixture was too rich when we took a look at the carb (taking out the air filter element) - gasoline was covering the carb. this was about a month ago, fc was better, but cold hard starting became the norm. i've tried all the advice - like stepping on the accelerator pedal before starting (which worked before the alternator was replaced and air-fuel mixture was adjusted) but as of now, the first try to start always ends up in the engine dying (nalulunod). after getting the engine started, i should not put my foot on the pedal or try putting it in gear or else, the engine will die. also, i noticed that when i changed the sparkplugs, there was gasoline in cylinders 2 & 3.
what could be the problem? the carb ( i bought it brand new last may 4),my 5k carb worked ok except that i wanted to get my car back to original specs. need help.

cold enrichment system malfunction is evident as per your description. check the carburetor for sticking linkages. check the early fuel evaporation (EFE) system. in related note, check your ignition output. if your spark is not bright bluish white from the ignition wires against the engine block and has a sharp clicking sound when the spark happens, chances are the voltage output of the ignition secondary side is inadequate

**EE100shiro** · July 6th, 2012 10:44 PM

hindi kasi nagana ung choke at fast idle cam gear sa carb mo

**dod** · July 6th, 2012 10:48 PM

Originally Posted by jick.cejoco

cold enrichment system malfunction is evident as per your description. check the carburetor for sticking linkages. check the early fuel evaporation (EFE) system. in related note, check your ignition output. if your spark is not bright bluish white from the ignition wires against the engine block and has a sharp clicking sound when the spark happens, chances are the voltage output of the ignition secondary side is inadequate

thanks - will ask my mechanic to take a look

**dod** · July 6th, 2012 10:55 PM

my mechanic was looking for the choke adjustment, but he couldn't find it. is it supposed to be near the breaker? also where is the fast idle cam gear located? or can you recommend anyone to take a look at my carb? thanks

**EE100shiro** · July 6th, 2012 11:20 PM

ano ba yung 5K na carb mo surplus o brand new na taiwan made??

**dod** · July 7th, 2012 12:26 AM

Originally Posted by EE100shiro

ano ba yung 5K na carb mo surplus o brand new na taiwan made??

brand new, wasn't able to find a 2e carb that time. my original carb was overhauled before ondoy at madalas nalulunod after ondoy, kaya naghanap ako ng bagong carb

**jick.cejoco** · July 7th, 2012 10:03 AM

Originally Posted by dod

my mechanic was looking for the choke adjustment, but he couldn't find it. is it supposed to be near the breaker? also where is the fast idle cam gear located? or can you recommend anyone to take a look at my carb? thanks

if your "mechanic" can not find the choke adjustment, it may be because your car is using a mikuni variable venturi carburetor. the year of manufacture you stated, most of them came with the mikuni v.v. carb. it will not have choke, no linkages except for the throttle control and the fast idle mechanism too is wax pellet type without any provision for adjustment

**dod** · July 7th, 2012 07:01 PM

my carb has automatic choke which is controlled electronically... will have to see if choke is working when engine is cold...

**jick.cejoco** · July 7th, 2012 07:14 PM

Originally Posted by dod

my carb has automatic choke which is controlled electronically... will have to see if choke is working when engine is cold...

in which case, you have a traditional carburetor. your "electric choke" is a bourdon spring type choke breaker. if the linkage is stuck or slow to close or the spring, the choke plate does not close. it is not "electronic choke". the heating of the buordon spring allows it to open gradually as the heat of the bimetallic element is heated.