need help hard starting corolla big body 2e

[dod]

i have 1993 toyota corolla xe. i'm experiencing hard starting especially in the morning or after a prolonged (4 hrs or longer) period of non-use. engine runs fine when it is warmed up. my car was submerged during ondoy. in the past 2 months, i've had the following done:
1. replaced 5k carb back to 2e big body carb
2. installed brand new original hi-tension wires
3. changed air filter element/fuel filter
4. changed alternator -higher amp surplus (original - overhauled once in 2010 - finally gave up)
5. replaced sparkplugs
right after the alternator was replaced, noticed that the idling jumped to 1000 rpm. after adjusting idle to 800-850 rpm, noticed that the air-fuel mixture was too rich when we took a look at the carb (taking out the air filter element) - gasoline was covering the carb. this was about a month ago, fc was better, but cold hard starting became the norm. i've tried all the advice - like stepping on the accelerator pedal before starting (which worked before the alternator was replaced and air-fuel mixture was adjusted) but as of now, the first try to start always ends up in the engine dying (nalulunod). after getting the engine started, i should not put my foot on the pedal or try putting it in gear or else, the engine will die. also, i noticed that when i changed the sparkplugs, there was gasoline in cylinders 2 & 3.
what could be the problem? the carb ( i bought it brand new last may 4),my 5k carb worked ok except that i wanted to get my car back to original specs. need help.

[jick.cejoco]

i have 1993 toyota corolla xe. i'm experiencing hard starting especially in the morning or after a prolonged (4 hrs or longer) period of non-use. engine runs fine when it is warmed up. my car was submerged during ondoy. in the past 2 months, i've had the following done:
1. replaced 5k carb back to 2e big body carb
2. installed brand new original hi-tension wires
3. changed air filter element/fuel filter
4. changed alternator -higher amp surplus (original - overhauled once in 2010 - finally gave up)
5. replaced sparkplugs
right after the alternator was replaced, noticed that the idling jumped to 1000 rpm. after adjusting idle to 800-850 rpm, noticed that the air-fuel mixture was too rich when we took a look at the carb (taking out the air filter element) - gasoline was covering the carb. this was about a month ago, fc was better, but cold hard starting became the norm. i've tried all the advice - like stepping on the accelerator pedal before starting (which worked before the alternator was replaced and air-fuel mixture was adjusted) but as of now, the first try to start always ends up in the engine dying (nalulunod). after getting the engine started, i should not put my foot on the pedal or try putting it in gear or else, the engine will die. also, i noticed that when i changed the sparkplugs, there was gasoline in cylinders 2 & 3.
what could be the problem? the carb ( i bought it brand new last may 4),my 5k carb worked ok except that i wanted to get my car back to original specs. need help.

cold enrichment system malfunction is evident as per your description. check the carburetor for sticking linkages. check the early fuel evaporation (EFE) system. in related note, check your ignition output. if your spark is not bright bluish white from the ignition wires against the engine block and has a sharp clicking sound when the spark happens, chances are the voltage output of the ignition secondary side is inadequate

[EE100shiro]

hindi kasi nagana ung choke at fast idle cam gear sa carb mo

[dod]

cold enrichment system malfunction is evident as per your description. check the carburetor for sticking linkages. check the early fuel evaporation (EFE) system. in related note, check your ignition output. if your spark is not bright bluish white from the ignition wires against the engine block and has a sharp clicking sound when the spark happens, chances are the voltage output of the ignition secondary side is inadequate

thanks - will ask my mechanic to take a look

[dod]

my mechanic was looking for the choke adjustment, but he couldn't find it. is it supposed to be near the breaker? also where is the fast idle cam gear located? or can you recommend anyone to take a look at my carb? thanks

[EE100shiro]

ano ba yung 5K na carb mo surplus o brand new na taiwan made??

[dod]

ano ba yung 5K na carb mo surplus o brand new na taiwan made??

brand new, wasn't able to find a 2e carb that time. my original carb was overhauled before ondoy at madalas nalulunod after ondoy, kaya naghanap ako ng bagong carb

[jick.cejoco]

my mechanic was looking for the choke adjustment, but he couldn't find it. is it supposed to be near the breaker? also where is the fast idle cam gear located? or can you recommend anyone to take a look at my carb? thanks

if your "mechanic" can not find the choke adjustment, it may be because your car is using a mikuni variable venturi carburetor. the year of manufacture you stated, most of them came with the mikuni v.v. carb. it will not have choke, no linkages except for the throttle control and the fast idle mechanism too is wax pellet type without any provision for adjustment

[dod]

my carb has automatic choke which is controlled electronically... will have to see if choke is working when engine is cold...

[jick.cejoco]

my carb has automatic choke which is controlled electronically... will have to see if choke is working when engine is cold...

in which case, you have a traditional carburetor. your "electric choke" is a bourdon spring type choke breaker. if the linkage is stuck or slow to close or the spring, the choke plate does not close. it is not "electronic choke". the heating of the buordon spring allows it to open gradually as the heat of the bimetallic element is heated.

[dod]

i bought it brand new, could it be defective? the heating of the spring is generated electronically when i switch the ignition to 'ON'? did i get it right? anyway, i'll bring it to my supplier and have their mechanic take a look at it. i'll let my engine cool before i start it up. thanks.

[dod]

by the way, will the fuel (i.e. caltex,shell,petron, etc.) used have an effect on my hard starting? the caltex silver fuel which i'm currently using seems to have a lot of additives as my fuel filter and carb has reddish "mantsa".

[dod]

i've just had my carb checked by my mechanic, the auto choke is working, he adjusted the idle rpm and the car started better, though when the rpm went up to 1000 when the engine warmed to working temperature. am still looking for any suggestions to get better fc... any suggestion would be greatly appreciated

[dod]

just an update... my supplier replaced the carb i bought and i installed this last monday... engine ran smoother... but hard cold starting again... actually worse... left it with my mechanic and he noted that it seems the carb injects too small an amount of fuel... need to pump the accelerator pedal several times for it to start... what can i do to remedy the situation? help

[goldrat]

priming the 2E carb is a must before starting. no electronic controls just an accelerator cable. E10 only made it worse. also the fuel pump is mechanical and the engine has to be running for gasoline to flow to the carb. different from the gli that is fuel injected with an electric fuel pump that starts to pump the moment you turn the ignition on. before the fuel injected systems, electric fuel pumps provided better pressure thru the fuel lines for twin carb set ups.

[dod]

does that mean that even if i put in a new 2e carb or have my original 2e carb, i'll still have the same problem? maybe not just to the same degree? (re: less priming?)

[goldrat]

yup, will still need to be primed. you can try depressing the gas pedal about halfway when you start up. let the cranking motion of the engine cause the fuel pump to flow the gas into the carb. personally, i prefer priming. i have seen to many engines revved unnecessarily when started with the gas pedal. its a finesse move that takes getting used too. not the best way to start up a cold engine. if you have ever tried starting a flooded engine, its something similar.

[dod]

thanks... i have tried the 'depressed' accelerator start... difficult to master...

[JohnM]

I had a hard time cold starting my dad's 2E engined Corolla. It turns over and runs but dies right away when the gas is released. He told me to turn on the aircon before releasing the gas to force the revs to go up.

[kylo]

Ganyan din sa bigbody ko.. hard cold starting.. Ginagawa ko nlng.. Bago ko paandarin tapak sa pedal 2x habang nka on ung ignition.. den start...
then, naka tapak lang ako sa gas pedal for 20-30 secs ng magaan para hnd mamatay ung engine den aun.. ok na.. kahit bitawan ko na ung pedal hnd na namamatay ung engine..