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  1. Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    10,283
    #6551
    Blackstone analysis of the Porsche ATF fluid and the Toyota ATF T-IV fluid ... They were found to be virtually identical chemically ...

  2. Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    2,705
    #6552



    just changed the oil on the jimny. repsol elite multivalvulas 10w40. somewhat old school oil i.e. not for direct injection (jimny engine is port injected only). api SN (not SP)

    ACEA a3/b4, again another old-school spec, so the minimum hths is 3.5 i.e. it loses a bit of fuel efficiency but provides more engine protection than acea a5/b5

    P1500 on shopee. most oils in this price range are not ACEA rated

  3. Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    6,260
    #6553
    I have my own opinion about this but I'd appreciate to hear yours...

    Say, you have a Toyota 1GD 2.8L Diesel engine which is found in the Innova, Fortuner, Hilux, etc. Note that this engine in its local form is, to the best of my knowledge, EURO-IV and uses a Diesel Oxidation Catalyst (DOC) but without a Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF).

    If you have to choose between the following Toyota motor oils (as a condition to maintain factory warranty), which choice is better for daily city driving with an ave. monthly mileage of 700-800 km and an OCI between 4-6 months?

    Toyota Full Synthetic API SN/CF 5w40, or
    Toyota Conventional API CI-4 15w40

    And why?

  4. Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    25,265
    #6554
    Quote Originally Posted by oj88 View Post
    I have my own opinion about this but I'd appreciate to hear yours...

    Say, you have a Toyota 1GD 2.8L Diesel engine which is found in the Innova, Fortuner, Hilux, etc. Note that this engine in its local form is, to the best of my knowledge, EURO-IV and uses a Diesel Oxidation Catalyst (DOC) but without a Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF).

    If you have to choose between the following Toyota motor oils (as a condition to maintain factory warranty), which choice is better for daily city driving with an ave. monthly mileage of 700-800 km and an OCI between 4-6 months?

    Toyota Full Synthetic API SN/CF 5w40, or
    Toyota Conventional API CI-4 15w40

    And why?
    If OCI is max 6 months, I'll use conventional oil. No need FS if your won't extend to at least a year. Sayang ang oil. Too many UOA in BITOG showing that FS can do the 1year 10,000Km run without much worry.
    Fasten your seatbelt! Or else... Driven To Thrill!

  5. Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    1,123
    #6555
    Quote Originally Posted by Ry_Tower View Post
    If OCI is max 6 months, I'll use conventional oil. No need FS if your won't extend to at least a year. Sayang ang oil. Too many UOA in BITOG showing that FS can do the 1year 10,000Km run without much worry.
    Bear in mind that those with UOA in BITOG are cars running in the US, mostly highways and no extreme traffic.

    Here, there's tropical heat and we have one of the worst traffic in the world, plus short distance trips, it should be considered severe conditions...

    For me personally, in the city, I change the oil every 6 months regardless of kms. Our cars in the province with little to no traffic, we change every 1 year.

    Also, I don't bother with mineral oils, the price difference with FS oil is so miniscule it doesn't really matter... unless you're a real penny pincher.

  6. Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Posts
    2,374
    #6556
    Once the warranty expires naman, pwedeng mag-avail ng services sa mga reliable or kilalang pms shops (e.g. zix performance, gas stations, etc.) where you could even possibly bring your own engine oil that's already FS and still end up being cheaper than the mineral/ss oil provided sa casa (na minsan taga pa sa presyo), especially sa mga diesels na kilala sa pagiging 'dirty'; therefore, prone sa pagbara if napabayaan. Aside from making the engine run smoother, meron paring special additives yung FS oil na kahit papano makakatulong (less bara, etc.) sa engine in the long run, kahit pa hindi every 1 year yung interval mo sa PMS. Kasi mas magiging costly if umabot sa puntong madalas may bara or latak tas need ilinis ang injectors, etc. every now and then. Also, yung mineral oil madalas sa mga brand new units na undergoing pa ng break-in periods. Although i think it can be more ideal din sa mga gas engines tas short lang intervals sa pms. Pero in the end, nasa owner parin if mineral/ss/fs oil pipiliin niya para sa sasakyan.

  7. Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    6,260
    #6557
    Quote Originally Posted by hardwang View Post
    Bear in mind that those with UOA in BITOG are cars running in the US, mostly highways and no extreme traffic.

    Here, there's tropical heat and we have one of the worst traffic in the world, plus short distance trips, it should be considered severe conditions...

    For me personally, in the city, I change the oil every 6 months regardless of kms. Our cars in the province with little to no traffic, we change every 1 year.
    I follow the same logic. City driving involves a lot of stop and go and long idle times.... accumulating a lot of engine runtime with very little distance travelled.


    Also, I don't bother with mineral oils, the price difference with FS oil is so miniscule it doesn't really matter... unless you're a real penny pincher.
    I probably should've mentioned this but my situation is very specific. The Toyota conventional oil is included for free as part of the 2-year/20k km free PMS (total of 5 PMS sessions). Upgrading to Toyota FS would mean I would have to shell out an additional 2-3k every PMS. Unless the FS oil is going to be a game-changer in my use case, I don't know if it's worth that extra out-of-pocket expense.

    Toyota's margins are insane but I prefer to keep my warranty. After the 2 years are up and I've used up all of the free PMS, I'll decide then if I should risk the remaining 1 year of warranty and get my oil changes done by myself using Amsoil. Until then, I'm sticking to the dealer for PMS.

  8. Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    2,622
    #6558
    Quote Originally Posted by Walter View Post
    Blackstone analysis of the Porsche ATF fluid and the Toyota ATF T-IV fluid ... They were found to be virtually identical chemically ...
    I remember seeing that topic in the Rennsport forums.

    Lots of Cayenne owners were using Toyota Type-IV fluid in their cars. One guy sent fresh samples of both to Blackstone and as you said they were more or less identical.

  9. Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    1,237
    #6559
    Quote Originally Posted by oj88 View Post
    The Toyota conventional oil is included for free as part of the 2-year/20k km free PMS (total of 5 PMS sessions). Upgrading to Toyota FS would mean I would have to shell out an additional 2-3k every PMS. Unless the FS oil is going to be a game-changer in my use case, I don't know if it's worth that extra out-of-pocket expense.
    Malaki nga ang price difference ng Toyota oils.

    Iba iba pala ang 20k PMS pkg, depende siguro sa dealer or sa model. Sa Raize.
    1k, change oil and filter.
    5k, change filter and top up.
    10k, change oil and filter.
    15k, change filter and top up.
    20k, change oil and filter.

    Toyota FS oil ang gamit lahat.
    Late ko na nalaman sa 5k na top up pala.

    Kaya sa 15k pina full change oil ko na. Dagdag na lang bayad sa extra FS oil.

    Kung hindi madalas ang crawling traffic ok na sa mineral. Kung laging stuck sa traffic at crawling pa, FS nga.

  10. Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    6,260
    #6560
    Quote Originally Posted by bxr monkey View Post
    Malaki nga ang price difference ng Toyota oils.

    Iba iba pala ang 20k PMS pkg, depende siguro sa dealer or sa model. Sa Raize.
    1k, change oil and filter.
    5k, change filter and top up.
    10k, change oil and filter.
    15k, change filter and top up.
    20k, change oil and filter.

    Toyota FS oil ang gamit lahat.
    Late ko na nalaman sa 5k na top up pala.

    Kaya sa 15k pina full change oil ko na. Dagdag na lang bayad sa extra FS oil.

    Kung hindi madalas ang crawling traffic ok na sa mineral. Kung laging stuck sa traffic at crawling pa, FS nga.
    Diesel engines, by nature of their operation, needs more frequent oil changes. On my manual, OCI is every 5k km or 6 months.

Mineral , semi synthetic or fully synthetic?